[Superully's Restoration] Bubble Bobble Project - here we go ...

[Superully]

thx for all the nice comments, guys, today it's time for side #2 ...

[Nic-fryer]

I read in someone else's restoration they used stencils and the first coat over the stencils is done in the base coat to seal the stencils.

I hope that makes sense. 

[Belike]

Nice result, I  work with the same blue colour these days.

[Superully]

I read in someone else's restoration they used stencils and the first coat over the stencils is done in the base coat to seal the stencils.

I hope that makes sense. 

totally! i've tried it with a clear coat this time (instead of white) and then rolled on the blue - paint is drying as we speak. i'll report back with the results later!

Nice result, I  work with the same blue colour these days.

zacc bubble bobble?

[Superully]

let's see how the other side will "survive the operation" - stencils in place, edges masked off, clear coat already sprayed on!



otherwise same procedure as before: a few blue layers rolled on, light sanding in between, two final blue layers with the spray can



let's find out how it turned out this time: not bad for a start!



looking really good this time



in detail



but what about the letters? that's where i had most of the problems the last time, but ...



... not this time!!!



there were only a few spots where i had to use the xacto knife again, but all in all this was close to perfect



anyone wanna have a set of classic taito stencils? pickup is free



guess i won't be needing those anymore anytime soon

[DarthNuno]

Very great job, Ully! 

[Superully]

now that all the pieces have been painted, it's normally time for re-assembly, BUT i'm afraid this will have to wait a while ! why, you may ask? well, the thing is that all the taito cabs of that era had a vertical monitor setup - at least that's what my researches showed. therefore, the monitor area always looks like that



in detail (sorry for the bad picture, it was taken a long time ago, but not in a galaxy far far away ). at first i thought i could simply turn the monitor and the wooden bezel that goes around it, but this is not possible for two reasons: (a) the monitor brackets only support a vertical mount and (b) the wooden bezel is specificially cut so that it only works in this direction. i do have an idea however, but this "idea" needs to be transported from the usa to germany first. it might take a couple of weeks for it to arrive, so in the meantime i can't continue working on the cabinet itself. PLUS there is a chance that my idea won't work at all, but if it does it'll kick ass - i can promise that!



but let's assume it'll work as planned and i can mount the monitor in a horizontal position, i still need to put the cabinet back together. originally, the pieces were held in place by four things: check out the following picture



(1) glue
(2) brackets with screws
(3) wooden "triangles"
(4) nails

for reassembly, i can do number 1 to 3, but nails i cannot do, because otherwise i would have to drive nails through the freshly painted sides. however, i'm afraid that without nails the cabinet might be a little bit fragile and that it might come apart when moving it around too often or too hard.

with that being said, i was wondering whether one of you guys has any ideas how i could make the connections somewhat tighter. i though about using dowels, but it might get tricky to align the pieces 100% then. i'm looking for some kind if "hidden connection", something i don't have to hammer in from the outside, but something that's on the inside which somehow holds the pieces together. just like a nail, but without having to nail it in from the outside. hope you know what i'm talking about and have some ideas here. keep 'em coming, guys ...

[Laszo]

I would go without the extra's, use a strong glue, together with the stuts, screws and the triangles it must be enough... Such a beautifully painted cab should not be handled roughly  .

Still if you wanna nail it you could use squere wooden supports on the inside corners and nail it from the insede out.

[Superully]

nice advice with the corner supports. the reason why i wanna make it somewhat tighter is that it used nails originally and i don't think they simply put them in for weight reasons . i remember that i saw some kind of small metal triangles once when i disassembled something which had been hammered in between two pieces of woods, but i haven't been able to find those and googling for "small metal triangles" yields results like that

[Etienne MacGyver]

if you are precise (which i know you are !), and you use the correct tool, you can use dowels without any problems.

there is some little piece of metal that you need to use for the dowels.

first drill the hole on one piece, then insert these and "mark" the other piece with this and drill that after:



i did use that, so if i was succesfull, you will be for sure with your woordworking skills !  

Oh and by the way, i also used a drillstop in the process to prevent drilling too deep :



both tools came in a set which i bought one day and its very recommendable to use both  

by the way, nice CK marquee 

[Luigi]

I have no clue how these metal triangles work....but why not simply use screws with those wooden triangles?

[Superully]

never seen those before, etienne, this looks like something that might come in handy! thx a lot

I have no clue how these metal triangles work....but why not simply use screws with those wooden triangles?

because those wooden triangles are quite fragile and if i used screws on them they might possibly break apart.

[Etienne MacGyver]

they sel sets like this;



This also has another tool which could be handy. (it guides the drill so you are drilling straight.



mine was just a very cheap set in the 5€ bin at the local DIY store and just had the dowels, puncture bits and drill with drillstop.

i used my workbench drill, so i did not have the problem with drilling accidentally under an angle..



but i am sure you can find something like this around you.

[cebulba]

now that all the pieces have been painted, it's normally time for re-assembly, BUT i'm afraid this will have to wait a while ! why, you may ask? well, the thing is that all the taito cabs of that era had a vertical monitor setup - at least that's what my researches showed. therefore, the monitor area always looks like that

Went to an operator yesterday. He has the same cab on sale if someone is interested.
Asking 125 EUR without monitor (pickup Belgium).

Secondly I got another Taito cab (different stlye, very nice space sidearts) for myself...it was also converted with this Crazy Kong Marquee. Seems that (Bootleg)Game was quite popular with taito cabs.

[Superully]

Went to an operator yesterday. He has the same cab on sale if someone is interested.
Asking 125 EUR without monitor (pickup Belgium).

man, if i had known that earlier. i've already exchanged some pics with the guy, but 125 euros for a cab without a monitor (plus the joystick on the panel is not original) was too much - although he told me the price is negotiable. but then i thought "hmm, belgium, and decided to drop the case". are you going there again? do you know if it has the original power supply inside?