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Author Topic: [Roadtrip] It's not a race (anymore), it's a RALLY  (Read 18089 times)
Superully
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« Reply #90 on: December 21, 2010, 09:46:54 PM »

today i pulled out the chassis from the hitachi b/w television to see how many capacitors need to be replaced: 33 (in words: THIRTY-THREE) Shocked



do i really have to replace every single one of them? this is going to take forever ... Ghost Ghost Ghost
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« Reply #91 on: December 21, 2010, 10:26:50 PM »

Only 33 ?

You should try a Hantarex....Smiley

Remember that it's a TV and not a monitor. That's why there are much more caps.

Now, I don't actually think they produced a HF (High Frequency, like the TV signal that used to be transmitted through the air) on the game PCB SOOOOOOOOO, somehow they must have "hacked" the LF (low frequency) signal into the TV....


Following this (if you still follow), in theory, you would only need to replace the caps that are in the LF section and power supply section.....

I'd have to study the manual for that....

Can you indicate which wires run from the game PCB to the monitor PCB ?
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Superully
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« Reply #92 on: December 21, 2010, 10:52:30 PM »

Now, I don't actually think they produced a HF (High Frequency, like the TV signal that used to be transmitted through the air) on the game PCB SOOOOOOOOO, somehow they must have "hacked" the LF (low frequency) signal into the TV....
Following this (if you still follow), in theory, you would only need to replace the caps that are in the LF section and power supply section.....

you lost me somewhere along the road ...  Embarrassed

Can you indicate which wires run from the game PCB to the monitor PCB ?

puh, this is going to be difficult - i'll try to check tomorrow if it helps. but wouldn't it be better if i simply replaced all the caps because they are so old?

one more question: do i have to replace that big black capacitor in the middle of the following picture as well?

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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #93 on: December 21, 2010, 11:01:46 PM »

it does not hurt to replace them all..

its the "shotgun" methode, and its possible ofcourse

if its neccesary?, difficult to say, i guess not , but they are all 25+ years so if youre going to cap it, might as well go all the way  Wink

the question remains, does this resolve your problem ? (dont remember exactly what your problem was)
it could also be something else than a cap...
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Superully
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« Reply #94 on: December 21, 2010, 11:25:17 PM »

the question remains, does this resolve your problem ? (dont remember exactly what your problem was)
it could also be something else than a cap...

the picture is shaky and distorted - at least it looks like a cap kit could do the trick. i'll try that first!

here's a video
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Superully
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« Reply #95 on: December 22, 2010, 09:14:28 AM »

they are all 25+ years so if youre going to cap it, might as well go all the way  Wink

in this case, they are 37+ years - close to my age! Ghost
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« Reply #96 on: December 22, 2010, 11:10:44 PM »

Yeah cap them all, it's the shot-gun method...and all seems easy to access....
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Superully
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« Reply #97 on: December 23, 2010, 08:31:18 AM »

i'll cap them all except for the non-polarized one because i haven't been able to find an exact replacement for it and the big black one on the picture above because it is not directly on the chassis.
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #98 on: December 23, 2010, 08:57:37 AM »

.......... because it is not directly on the chassis.
that is not a garanty that its still fine..  Wink

if you find the bigone, you can solder the wires to the replacement cap
it will probably be a little smaller one

they have them also at RS:


although i hope you dont need this value.....
Look at the price of that S.O.B.  Shocked
« Last Edit: December 23, 2010, 09:10:09 AM by Etienne » Logged

McVenco
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« Reply #99 on: December 23, 2010, 09:19:00 AM »

How about this one:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12013_Power-Acoustik-PCX-5F.html

A 5 Farad cap shock . They use these things in car audio installations.
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« Reply #100 on: December 23, 2010, 09:52:39 AM »

Yep, that prevents that your headlights are dimming in the rithm of the bass  Grin
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Superully
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« Reply #101 on: December 23, 2010, 10:04:12 AM »

if you find the bigone, you can solder the wires to the replacement cap
it will probably be a little smaller one

the value of that thing is 2200uF 25V. i'll go WITHOUT replacing it first and if the tv still doesn't work properly, i might exchange that b**** as well!
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« Reply #102 on: December 23, 2010, 10:01:53 PM »

Power up the TV, put your DVM in AC voltage mode and measure across the terminals of that capacitor.

If it's good you will have a value of almost 0 on your meter. Let me know what you measure.

(Of course only do this if you haven't started the cap-kitting..! (Or if you finished it).
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Superully
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« Reply #103 on: December 23, 2010, 11:38:41 PM »

Power up the TV, put your DVM in AC voltage mode and measure across the terminals of that capacitor.
If it's good you will have a value of almost 0 on your meter. Let me know what you measure.
(Of course only do this if you haven't started the cap-kitting..! (Or if you finished it).

thx andré! i haven't started cap kitting yet, but i had to remove some wires to get the chassis out, so i guess i'll do the cap kit first and check that special capacitor afterwards!
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #104 on: August 07, 2011, 01:39:42 PM »

Whats up with rally ATM ully ?
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