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Author Topic: It's Burger Time! ...still hungry after 28 years... :: The Restoration ::  (Read 23627 times)
DarthNuno
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« on: June 26, 2010, 05:24:20 PM »


Following this road trip  arrow



...it's time to work on this cab'.  Cool

Back in time, ten months ago ( Roll Eyes) ... the road trip ended like this  arrow



...when the cabinet was entering the house (after a brief passage inside the Nuno's Lair)  arrow



And finally 10 months later, so today (yes, this is a 'real time' topic this time -very rare concerning me), let's examine the cabinet.
For information, that cabinet was untouched, untested and uncleaned until today... Of course, it was untested so far because I knew the game wasn't working when I got it in UK...

OK, let's check the cabinet itself :



Very good condition considering its age  Smiley









As you can see, except a good cleaning, there's nothing to do regarding the cabinet itself, except to change the faded and broken T-molding, see  arrow



The CPO and the bezel have to be changed. Fortunately, I got with the cab' a perfect CPO & bezel  Smiley



Marquee is great  Kiss  arrow



Let's now check the identity of this cabinet.

US import of course (No dedicated BG in Europe back in the 80s), and ... 189  Shocked loooow serial number!  arrow



Wait... there is an other number engraved in the wood : 3111



Inside the cabinet, a sticker with the same 3111 value, so I presume this number IS the serial number, but what may be the first number 189 then? Strange...  arrow



Let's see inside the cabinet now :



Very clean as you can see ...



The original BT board :



Hey, there's an additional (and unattached) 110V transformer here... I presume it was a temporary fix for the initial one. It's directly connected to the monitor, by-passing everything (connected to the 220V on one side, and to the monitor to the other side)  arrow



The first strange thing here... in Europe, we are all using 220V... why the incoming voltage here on this transformer is set on 240V... Maybe UK is using 240V?  arrow



Ok, let's plug the game... as expected the game doesn't work. The monitor doesn't power up (no light on the back of the tube). The marquee light is on, and can hear some buzz sounds (but not the sounds from the game!). Let's try to insert credit and play blind : nothing happens!

I need to know first what happen with the monitor... but ... no luck today... my multimeter seems to be down! Extreme value everywhere I'm checking power  Huh? Let's try my multimeter directly inside a 220V socket  arrow



322V ! Impossible! This multimeter is dead?!

« Last Edit: June 26, 2010, 05:44:14 PM by DarthNuno » Logged

retromax
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« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2010, 06:03:09 PM »

Quote from: DarthNuno

The first strange thing here... in Europe, we are all using 220V... why the incoming voltage here on this transformer is set on 240V... Maybe UK is using 240V?


Yup 240V here in the UK Smiley
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Vnera
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« Reply #2 on: June 26, 2010, 06:22:24 PM »

to start whit its 230v  in Europa the chanced it. and second your multi isn't dead its measuring the top voltage not the effective voltage. Get the top voltage of a sinus wave do 230*sqaurroot(2)  whits is 325.  Hope this helped!
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2010, 06:31:27 PM »

Yeps, but the strange thing is ... previously, I used to read between 220V and 230V when I put the multimeter inside one of my electricity sockets from my house. Why suddenly it would display this huge value? Maybe something wrong in the multimeter setup?
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Vnera
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« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2010, 06:36:09 PM »

Every time that i have killed a multi (i did like 5) It got a blown fuse. I looked it up and indeed it should read the effective voltage instead of the top. But its weird that it reads a voltage that is to close the top voltage instead of noting.
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aganim
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« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2010, 09:55:10 PM »

Nuno, I think your multimeter batterie is low.
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« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2010, 12:56:43 AM »

Guys, 240V in the UK and 220V in Europe is SOOOOOOO long ago......


The UK went down 10Volts, and we went up 10Volts to get 230V everywhere in Europe (yes Europe includes the UK) YEARS ago....

Of course, there is a tolerance on this voltage. 230V is not always EXACTLY 230V, there is a 10% margin.

Anyway, I'd leave it set-up for 240V (unless there is a 230VAC connection) because this way, you will get a bit lower secundary voltage as well, which will ease the stress a bit on any components after that.
If you set it up for 220V and let it work on 230V you are likely still OK, but the output secondary voltages will be higher than when using the 240V set-up. Note that normally this will still be within the margins of the power supply design and should not be a problem but still all my games are set-up for 240VAC, unless they have a 230V connection (which amazingly a lot of them actually do have).



By the way, it is not normal that the meter indicates the top voltage and not the effective voltage.
« Last Edit: June 27, 2010, 01:01:42 AM by Level42 » Logged

EvilDindon
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« Reply #7 on: June 27, 2010, 10:31:47 AM »

BT RULEEEZZ !

Good luck for your restoration !
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falcon NL
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« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2010, 03:11:27 AM »

Look great for her age! For some reason, i really like the cabinet of BT...but i never have played it... shock

And the post of André soms it all up i guess.
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2010, 11:19:17 AM »

Nuno, I think your multimeter batterie is low.

You're right, here's the result after a battery change  arrow



Now let's built a custom video adapter Burger Time > SCART (...and try for the first time my new soldering station ) :



Because the game is not working, nothing on screen of course...



You may think "why trying with a new monitor at this point?" ... well, I was hope some kind of graphic garbages, or test mode in order to help me to fix...  oppps
But here I am : nothing on screen... even no trace of a signal (maybe I've done a mistake on my adapter?).
Anyway, let's try to work in the right order.

OK, what we have here... Main power supply  arrow



What are these two wires cut ?

Regarding this board  arrow

I presume it's a secondary power supply to provide exotic voltage right? I would say it's also the sound board (there's an amp on it)?  arrow



Two wires don't go to the connector... something wrong?!  Lips Sealed



On the opposite side of this board  arrow



...the remain of a fix/hack/repair or something? See the black wire cut  arrow



Mhhhh... where to start?  Undecided

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Muerto
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« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2010, 11:31:24 AM »

it!......
Muhuhahahaha, just kidding  Wink
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liquidx
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« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2010, 12:18:17 PM »

That's some weird hack, the yellow wire is jumpering two 15v lines while the 2 cut wires seem to be 15v and its return.
The wires hacked onto the back both go to ground, so it doesn't make much sense unless I'm reading it wrong.

Yeah, I was working on some Midway power supplies this week Smiley

Also about to order from Bob Roberts if you want to share shipping on a rebuild kit.
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Superully
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« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2010, 01:22:04 PM »

Also about to order from Bob Roberts if you want to share shipping on a rebuild kit.

can i also jump onboard?  Kiss
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
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« Reply #13 on: July 03, 2010, 01:23:26 PM »

I am the pride owner of a working BT board.
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Superully
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« Reply #14 on: July 03, 2010, 01:33:35 PM »

I am the pride owner of a working BT board.

now all you need is the cabinet to go around it  Tongue
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
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