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Author Topic: [Restoration] The Joust Begins ...  (Read 52336 times)
Superully
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« Reply #90 on: August 06, 2010, 04:56:04 PM »

Again a question about the ROM testing screen. Does it simply show all the ROMs and stay red, does it go through the check of all the ROMS ? ( I do not know how this works, just want to know if the check stops at the first ROM or goes through each of them) ?

ok, what happens when i fire up the game in mame is the following: first the rug test (messy colorful jumbled screens which is in fact the RAM test), then the picture with the grey ROMs appears, they turn green one after the other, black screen appears with the words "initial tests indicate all systems go" followed by the joust 2 start screen

what happens when i turn on the cabinet: passes the rug test, picture with the grey ROMs appears, but none of them turns green, it simply stays like that. looks as if the ROM test doesn't even start (because otherwise i would guess i would get an indication if one of the ROMs is faulty), game seems to be stuck right before the test is about to begin!

i was just up at my mom's place to fix the marquee lighting and to reseat some other chips when i had a closer look again at the area where the battery once was. check out the following picture - unfortunately i didn't have my macro with me so i couldn't take a more detailed picture arrow



looks as if there's some acid damage going on at one of the resistor's legs (circled in red) and corrosion at some other parts (whatever those blue circled thingies are called). could that be causing the problem? if so, is that something i can fix myself or do i have to ask "mr acid-remover andré"? Grin
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
Superully
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« Reply #91 on: August 06, 2010, 05:06:18 PM »


while the startup problem still remains unsolved, i fixed another one which had been bugging me: the marquee lighting! neither a change of the starter nor a new bulb did the trick and the voltages were fine, so the only thing that was left to do was exchange the ballast. it wasn't an easy task finding one running on 120V, but thx to you guys from the forum i succeeded in the end. today, the package arrived arrow



installation was easy, i left both the original bulb and the starter in there and turned on the game Cool



sometimes those easy fixes can be extremely rewarding and give you a nice little boost to continue working. all i need to do now is get some purple paint to cover up that ugly scratch on the marquee from behind!

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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
Level42
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« Reply #92 on: August 06, 2010, 05:07:14 PM »

Does it still look aqua-blueish on those spots ? I thought I had hit everything where this stuff was with cleaning-vinegar. If it's looking a bit like chalk, this means that the vinegar did it's work on the base that leaked out of the batteries (it's not acid, because vinegar is the acid that neutralizes the base from the batteries). You can try to remove the chalk like rests with a firm brush or something. You can check if the tracks etc. are still all right with your DVM. (Coninuity check (beep mode) and touch one leg of the part and then look where the track goes and touch the other end of the track with the other lead of your DVM.)

This can hardly be the cause. I think it's fine. This part is far away from all the ROMs, RAMs and CPU's. If this would be giving trouble you'd not get it through the RAM tests.

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« Reply #93 on: August 06, 2010, 05:09:27 PM »

Where did you end up buying that old-fashioned ballast ? How much was it ?
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Superully
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« Reply #94 on: August 06, 2010, 05:16:27 PM »

Does it still look aqua-blueish on those spots ?

well, especially the upper leg of resistor R26 definitely looks aqua-blueish and the track below D2 doesn't look too good either!
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
Superully
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« Reply #95 on: August 06, 2010, 05:22:29 PM »

Where did you end up buying that old-fashioned ballast ? How much was it ?

Got them from the music shop that sascha pointed me to ...
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
baritonomarchetto
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« Reply #96 on: August 06, 2010, 08:37:12 PM »

Nice to see you succeed on giving light to that marquee Ully (great design  Space Ace)
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"A true Gentleman leaves no puzzle unsolved"
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« Reply #97 on: August 07, 2010, 01:20:16 AM »

Get some "cleaning" vinegar and treat the spots where it still looks "blue".....RINSE very well with water after the "process" has finished.

Then get rid of the chalk-like resisdu.

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Superully
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« Reply #98 on: August 07, 2010, 08:38:53 AM »

i will measure the function of the resistors and the diodes first today, then probably "treat" the board. what do you mean by "rinse"? pour water over the lower parts of the board and let it dry or use some kind of wet q*tip to remove the vinegar?
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
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« Reply #99 on: August 07, 2010, 09:55:01 AM »

Ully: IMO, the best way to "resurrect" a damaged ciruit is replace the compnent/s (I'll do for various pc mobo with capacitors "fatty") or a simple diode blowned on hd's.
The problem (did You already sayd in this post http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1675.0) is the skill for soldering/desoldering.
For training, You can use a secure non working board camed out from a tv or else, and try to solder/desolder components.
On My soldering station, I'll left the temperature around 310/330 °C and, on the desoldering station, around 400 °C (for fast working).
For the tip of the solder, cleaning head is essensial; I use, afther cleaning a uge work, Like Etienne sayd: "take a (small, I add) grinder, or sandpaper and clean the tip".
Afther the treatment I use "firm paste" (I did'n know if the traslation is correct, in Italian is "pasta salda") that make a cleaning/protective treatment on the tip.
Never use water on any circuit, can left umidity,oxide the contact, etc. etc.
To clean a circuit I use acetone or trichlorethylene, with an old toothbrush; never use alcohol!
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Superully
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« Reply #100 on: August 07, 2010, 10:14:50 AM »

To clean a circuit I use acetone or trichlorethylene, with an old toothbrush; never use alcohol!

andré said i should use 99% alcohol from the chemist Huh?
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
Superully
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« Reply #101 on: August 07, 2010, 10:36:15 AM »

ok, just came back from doing some testing. first of all, with my transitional multimeter i can't perform continuity checks (obviously too expensive to integrate Cheesy).

second, i'm having trouble with two components which you can see on the following picture arrow



the resistor R26 which shows signs of acid damage is testing fine, however the one next to it (labeled R28 and circled in red) should give me a reading of 4700 Ohm with a tolerance of 10 % (yellow - purple - red - silver). i've measured that resistor multiple times now and it only gives me 3200 Ohm Ghost

then, i've measured the diodes D1 and D2 whose legs look somewhat corroded. this could be the reason why getting a reading of the measures is not always easy, sometimes it works, sometimes i have to move the multimeters tips around a little bit to make it work. D2 is fine, blocking the current in one direction and giving a reading of around 600 in the other. well, at least the video tutorials i've watched on youtube told me that those are good readings Wink. D1 (circled in blue) however is also blocking the current in one direction, but gives me a negative reading of around -500 in the other direction. isn't the output always supposed to be positive? i don't know, you're the experts Grin

so, what's up with that resistor and that diode?
« Last Edit: August 07, 2010, 10:38:49 AM by Superully » Logged

all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
flip971
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« Reply #102 on: August 07, 2010, 10:40:01 AM »

alcohol is "fat", leaves residue (soldering tips from school and other tips form firends that repairs tv's and other electinics things).
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flip971
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« Reply #103 on: August 07, 2010, 10:48:14 AM »

ok, just came back from doing some testing. first of all, with my transitional multimeter i can't perform continuity checks (obviously too expensive to integrate Cheesy).
second, i'm having trouble with two components which you can see on the following picture arrow
the resistor R26 which shows signs of acid damage is testing fine, however the one next to it (labeled R28 and circled in red) should give me a reading of 4700 Ohm with a tolerance of 10 % (yellow - purple - red - silver). i've measured that resistor multiple times now and it only gives me 3200 Ohm Ghost

For testing proupose, normally, You need remove one side and test it now...
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Superully
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« Reply #104 on: August 07, 2010, 10:57:32 AM »

For testing proupose, normally, You need remove one side and test it now...

but all the other resistors test exactly like they are supposed to ... spot on results!
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
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