Monitor Question

[Belike]

I need some monitor related input again.
I have some monitors with a darker or much whiter lower area of the screen.
I swapped the chassis in these from my other cabs, the tube is ok, working fine with the replacement.
Is it a capkit or flyback problem?

[Etienne MacGyver]

my guess is not flyback, since you got image..

[level42]

Got some pics/video Bela ?

[Belike]

Here we go:
Cab no.1, Scramble:
There is a 3 cm high dark area in the bottom of the screen, where the fuel level is.


Cab no.2, Phoenix:
There is a 5 cm high white area in the bottom of the screen and vertical white strips.
The strips disappear after 5 minutes without any further adjustments.


Cab no.3. Phoenix in a Starsplash cab with Etienne's marquee.
The lower third of the screen is much whiter (or lighter) than the upper part and there is a same kind of area in the top 2cm of the screen.




I will invite the winner for some beers and Jack Daniel's on the rocks at Eurocade.

[Belike]

And I almost forgot, that the first Phoenix's screen is also shaking a bit.

[Superully]

degaussing?

[Belike]

degaussing?

I tried it with my top quality german product, but it didn't help.

[level42]

Shaking is almost always an indication of bad caps.

Let me guess, all of them are Hantarex monitors ?

I'm not an expert on rasters...but cap-kits could do a lot of good on these... and now I understand why you want to know my ESR meter results....

[Belike]

Shacking is almost always an indication of bad caps.

Let me guess, all of them are Hantarex monitors ?

I'm not an expert on rasters...but cap-kits could do a lot of good on these... and now I understand why you want to know my ESR meter results....

Yeah, I'm planning to replace my first capkit, I will have a good use of that equipment.

[italiandoh]

I need some monitor related input again.
I have some monitors with a darker or much whiter lower area of the screen.
I swapped the chassis in these from my other cabs, the tube is ok, working fine with the replacement.
Is it a capkit or flyback problem?

More than likely bad electrolytic capacitors.
Here's something that may be helpful:

             List of Bad Monitor Capacitors and Symptoms

Electrohome GO7
C511  47uf 160VDC Causes activation of X-ray protection which in turn
causes shutdown of horizontal oscillator.  Monitor appears dead.  Power
supply voltage rises to approx 160 VDC.  May also cause weird black areas
to appear on the right side or top of the screen.

C905  10uf 250VDC  May cause jittery picture.

C107 10uf 250VDC (on neck board)  Cannot darken screen completely with
screen control.

C504  1uf 50VDC  Wiggly picture; especially toward the top of the screen.
  Looks as if you should be able to adjust it out with the horizontal
frequency control but you can't.

C517 100uf 16VDC  Picture keystoned.  Sides not straight.
C518 220uf  16VDC  Picture keystoned.  Sides not straight.

C411 100uf 160VDC  Poor vertical deflection.

Hantarex MTC900
C25  47uf 16vdc  Jailbars
C36  22uf 35VDC  Jailbars
C83  47uf 25VDC  Jailbars

Hantarex MTC9000
C34  22uf 160VDC  May cause shutdown of monitor.  May cause interference
bands on screen.  Common failure starting now!

Wells-Gardner K4600
C614 33uf 25vdc  Keystoned picture.  Sides not straight.
C311  1000uf 35VDC  Poor vertical deflection (picture doesn't fill
screen)

Wells-Gardner K4900
C702  10uf 100VDC  Picture bright on the right side and dark on the left
side.

C313  100uf 160VDC  Poor vertical deflection (picture doesn't fill
screen)

C507  47uf 160VDC  May cause interference bands on screen.

Nintendo (Sanyo Model 20-EZV)

C407  10uf  160VDC   Causes vertical foldover.  The top part of the
screen is squished.

C302 1uf   50VDC  Jail bars
C467 1uf 160VDC Jail bars
C468 330uf 25VDC Jail bars
C469 220uf 25VDC  Jail bars
C471 10uf 160VDC Jail bars
C472 100uf 160VDC Jail bars

C459  100uf 16VDC.  Horizontal tearing. Looks as if you should be able to
adjust it out with the horizontal hold control but you can't. May cause
multiple images.

C303  10uf   50VDC  Brightness too low.

Matsushita (Pole Position)
C455  100uf 100VDC  Poor vertical deflection.

-
Source:  RANDY FROMM

[level42]

Nice list !

You can add:

Nintendo (Sanyo Model 20C) = Atari 14" Sanyo
C406 Causes vertical foldover. The top part of the screen is squished.

[Belike]

Thanks for your help, let's see if I can replace a cap without any problems.
As I don't have a desoldering station just a crap pump, I think I will use this method
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieoM_40nRVs

[Belike]

Or do you have any experience with this?
http://www.startecproducts.de/pdf/90200GB.pdf


It's a simple vacuum station, could be connected to any kind of soldering stations.

[Etienne MacGyver]

I like the comment at the video  

But don't disturb the joint until it's COMPLETELY cool, or the Popular Mechanics guy from the 'How to Solder' video will come and tear you a new asshole!

I dont have experience with a separate vaccuum station, but i do have a official desolder station.
from what i can judge its exactly the same function, and if you need to desolder alot, (complete capkits can be alot) and its not too expensive this is money well spend.

I would prefer that alot above wick..  
just buy also a simple solder iron that you can use with that station, and you dont need to switch every time with your regular iron.

wonder what the costs are for that vaccuum station ...

if you take a separate iron for it, dont take a 25 watts for that but rather a little higher so there will be enough heat in the tip..  

[level42]

Thanks for your help, let's see if I can replace a cap without any problems.
As I don't have a desoldering station just a crap pump, I think I will use this method
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieoM_40nRVs

1) Lousy soldering iron. 25W is simply not enough. It will force you to heat parts for very long which can lead to damage of tracks and parts. It works kinda OK here because it's only a tiny resistor, I wouldn't want to do bigger parts like HVT's with it..
2) He doesn't (and hasn't) pre-tinned his soldering tip. BEFORE starting to solder, put a little new tin on the tip, then wipe it off with a moist (not WHET) sponge. Even better is "flicking off" the excess tin, but that's only for the pro's 
3) ....and this is my MOST ignored tip....ADD a little NEW solder if the solderings are very old before trying to get the old solder/part out !!!
The old solder doesn't have any flux in it anymore so it can take AGES before the old solder starts running. Adding a tiny bit of new solder will make it run almost instantly. Only THEN try to get out all of the solder using a hand pump or desoldering braid.
4) the PCB shakes like hell after he removes the iron when soldering in the new part. The solder has to be absolutly still for a second or 2 to settle nicely....this is bad soldering. FIX the PCB or at least make sure it doesn't move like that when working on it...

I figure I should just make my own video.....

I don't own a desoldering station, and I've never really missed it that much, I've always managed with braid and pump. Sure, it's great to have one around if you do a lot of work but it's not absolutely necessary.