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Author Topic: [Restoration] The King of the Jungle: Aaayihiah-Yihi-Ahauauooooo  (Read 37513 times)
Superully
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« Reply #210 on: January 06, 2012, 07:14:03 PM »

i'm afraid it was, because neither the battery not the jumper seem to be present!
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Laschek
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« Reply #211 on: January 07, 2012, 03:04:15 PM »

back from the test run, shorted pin a (ground) with pin j (coin 1) and on the other side of the connector pin 1 (ground) with pin 8 (coin 2) arrow no reaction at all!!! Cry

Maybe try pin 11, this is supposed to be the service switch.
Strangely enough some boards (bootlegs?) seem to have a freeplay setting on DIP Switch C7, wouldn't hurt to check that.

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/J/Jungle%20King%20diverse.pdf
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Superully
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« Reply #212 on: January 08, 2012, 04:58:23 PM »

here's an update on my two problems: distorted picture and coin-up issue!

i also had a posting on KLOV about the picture distortion and dokert told me that the problem lies in the horizontal sync and that i should look for the horizontal hold potentiometer. it's one of those potentiometers NOT located directly on the back side of the chassis, therefore i didn't know about its existence, but once i found and turned it i got a perfectly centered picture without distortion! thx dokert!!!



problem one arrow tick!!! on to problem 2 ...

Strangely enough some boards (bootlegs?) seem to have a freeplay setting on DIP Switch C7, wouldn't hurt to check that.

i've tried it, but i don't have one of those boards with a freeplay dip switch - damn! would have been too easy.

Maybe try pin 11, this is supposed to be the service switch.

before i tried what sascha suggested, i had checked the voltages directly on the board and not on the edge connector and realized that they were too low. only +4.75 volts! cranked up the voltages on the switcher to +5.10 in the hopes of solving my coin-up issue, but unfortunately nothing had changed! Cry

so i did as sascha had suggested and shorted pin 1 (ground) with pin 11 (service switch) and guess what ... arrow



click on the following picture to hear the sounds of the jungle:arrow:



ok, what does that mean? i cannot add credits via the coin switches, i cannot add credits by shorting two points on the edge connector, but i can add credits via shorting the service switch! if you ask me, something has to be wrong with the board ... what do you think?
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Level42
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« Reply #213 on: January 08, 2012, 08:38:33 PM »

Good work on the monitor. Now you have to reduce the brightness a bit since it is "overscreaming". Hou can see this by the white letters becoming "wooly" and bleeding colors..

Also maybe adjust the focus a bit...
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #214 on: January 08, 2012, 08:39:12 PM »

Well, since the manual states a jumper, and a backup battery that are both absent, its clear that the manual is wrong.

with that knowledge it could be that the pinout is also wrong, and the coin connection is indeed the pin 11.

does it play normal ?

If so just wire up the coin mechs to pin 11  Roll Eyes

Love to hear the aaahhhhhooooooaaaaaaa   and the melody afterwards !  Space Ace
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Belike
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« Reply #215 on: January 08, 2012, 10:28:02 PM »


with that knowledge it could be that the pinout is also wrong, and the coin connection is indeed the pin 11.
If so just wire up the coin mechs to pin 11  Roll Eyes
Love to hear the aaahhhhhooooooaaaaaaa   and the melody afterwards !  Space Ace
+1
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Superully
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« Reply #216 on: January 08, 2012, 10:34:19 PM »

Good work on the monitor. Now you have to reduce the brightness a bit since it is "overscreaming". Hou can see this by the white letters becoming "wooly" and bleeding colors..
Also maybe adjust the focus a bit...

thx andré! focus is already at its max, will try the brightness adjustment next ...
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Superully
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« Reply #217 on: February 22, 2012, 05:34:45 PM »


i was contacted by a guy on klov regarding the coin up issue who had similar problems. here's what he told me:

I am currently bringing a Jungle King back to life. It was having all sorts of wiring problems, no coin up and no sync .. the Interconnect/Filter board was bad. I was told it was not needed, So After all wires were directly spliced and soldered together everything started working perfectly again. What I did before I cut and spliced was to pull the wires from the connectors and tape them together well bypassing the filter to see if it cured the coin up and monitor sync issue and it did.. So then I cut and soldered the wires! Not necessarily your problem, But it's worth a shot and only takes a couple minutes..

sounds good to me (and andré was mentioning something simliar this afternoon about a filter board having no use), let me show you what he's been talking about, here's the filter board sitting above the game pcbs. as you can see, each connector has a counter-connector (apart from V1 which has two on "the other side"). basically what happens is that the signal is sent from one connector through the filter board to the counter connector "on the other side". i'm sure you get the picture!



here's a photo of the fully wired filter board



what i would need to do is remove those connectors from the filter board and connect the individual connectors directly (i've just used some lines to demonstrate what i mean, you have to remove those connectors in your head for now, but you're intelligent guys, you can do that Tongue)



however, since i have no idea whether this is going to solve my coin-up issue, i don't want to remove the wires from the connectors just yet, the best and easiest solution would be to find connectors like the ones on the filter board (of course, there would have to be pins on BOTH sides of the black plastic thing) and plug in the two opposing connectors from each side. can you still follow me? i've circle one of those filter board connectors, now imagine removing that and having pins on the other side, than simply plugging in the two connectors from the wiring harness. do connectors like that even exist? or do you guys have another quick idea to bypass the filter board and to connect the connectors?



any input is appreciated!!! Space Ace
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #218 on: February 22, 2012, 07:59:47 PM »

yes, some solidcore wire with that diameter will do the trick

or macgyver style; take some nails with that diameter and cut the heads off  Wink

Next is the more nice way to permanent fix it if that is the solution.
with this method, you don't need to cut up your cable, and you can keep it original..

take a couple of these, soldered "bottoms" together: ( in the correct diameter ofcourse..)



Click me to go to RS-online DE

Or if you want to use the filterboard and dont care to modify that, you can solder "bridges" on the back side of the filter board.
it looks more original then when you look into the cab instead of a "patched" wireharness  Wink

after the fix of choice, "beep" them with your DVM to check if all "bridges" work
« Last Edit: February 22, 2012, 08:22:06 PM by Etienne » Logged

liquidx
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« Reply #219 on: February 23, 2012, 01:39:25 AM »


Just build a male-to-male adapter as Etienne suggests.

I'm guessing they're 0.1" or 0.156" pitch connectors. Didn't you already buy a bunch of those from Great Plains for another project?

If they're 0.1, you can just solder them on each side of vero board/stripboard one row apart. I don't think that exists in 0.156 though.





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Laschek
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« Reply #220 on: February 23, 2012, 09:03:51 AM »

I highly recommend getting a cheap Jamma cab or a MAK/Supergun in order to test game PCBs outside of their cabs. For many games (not all, but Jungle King f.i. would work) you can easily make an adapter to Jamma, you don't even necessariliy need to connect everything. Easy way to find out if your problem is related to the PCB itself or the wiring etc. inside the cab. Plus you dont stress the original cab (esp. the monitor) too much from permanently switching on and off while testing board issues.
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Superully
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« Reply #221 on: February 23, 2012, 09:27:49 AM »

I highly recommend getting a cheap Jamma cab or a MAK/Supergun in order to test game PCBs outside of their cabs. For many games (not all, but Jungle King f.i. would work) you can easily make an adapter to Jamma, you don't even necessariliy need to connect everything. Easy way to find out if your problem is related to the PCB itself or the wiring etc. inside the cab. Plus you dont stress the original cab (esp. the monitor) too much from permanently switching on and off while testing board issues.

thx sascha, in fact i do have a testing station here (was planning on posting pictures soon), BUT i don't have the space to set it up yet - it's too big! Cheesy additionally, i need to be schooled on making those adapters first, no idea which parts i need for that and how to tackle the job. as always, i would need your input, guys!
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PunkRockCaveman
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« Reply #222 on: February 23, 2012, 09:51:05 AM »

Yeah, a test station is definately necessary for pcb repairs ... Ok, since I am sah today, I took a quick look at the schematics of the board. There are only two chips responsible for coinage. It's the 14584 trigger on position 27 and the buffer on 29. If you have a probe you could watch the signal during coinage and see where it gets stuck. Then there is a coin lockout circuit. That can be the reason, too. You would see this, in a stuck signal from that lockout switch ...
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Superully
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« Reply #223 on: February 23, 2012, 12:46:54 PM »

thx for the input regarding the coin up. i'll try bypassing the filte rboard first and might come back to you later then. the question is: wouldn't it be just easier to simply connect the test wire to the coin mechs and be done with it? after all, there's no difference as long as i can add credits!

as for those connectors eitenne posted above: just got back from my mum's place and measured the space between the pins, close to 4 mm i would say - guess those connectors won't work! have a look arrow



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Muerto
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« Reply #224 on: February 23, 2012, 12:48:40 PM »

they look like they would fit perfectly.
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