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Author Topic: [Restoration] The King of the Jungle: Aaayihiah-Yihi-Ahauauooooo  (Read 104047 times)
italiandoh
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« Reply #195 on: January 06, 2012, 12:44:55 PM »

wells gardner 19k4903

See http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/, file WG K4900_Manual_B.pdf, page 17. Check the three main DC supply voltages on the monitor board as indicated on the schematics on page 12, top left legenda.
Also double check all the monitor chassis for broken/cold solder joints.

Matteo
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Superully
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« Reply #196 on: January 06, 2012, 01:29:30 PM »

thx matteo, but shouldn't i be using this manual?
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italiandoh
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« Reply #197 on: January 06, 2012, 01:35:15 PM »

thx matteo, but shouldn't i be using this manual?

It looks the same. This one is just done by Taito by taking parts of the Wells Gardner manual.
It's up to you.

Matteo
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #198 on: January 06, 2012, 01:47:41 PM »

take ground from the connector as well? is my way of shorting ths correct?

to narrow down if you got a wire problem, take a piece of wire and short it with ground on the same connector (that is ac close you can get to the pcb)

if it works then, you might have a wire problem further in the harness..

additionally you can beeptest the wires from the coinswitch to the pcb, to determine if you got:
a. the correct wires
b. no broken wires
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Superully
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« Reply #199 on: January 06, 2012, 01:52:25 PM »

alright matteo, pulled out the schematics and found / marked the three voltage test points: 15, 130 and 175v. here they are arrow



how / where do i have to measure this now, that is: which lead (black / red) goes where? it's ac voltage, right? do i have to measure this from "underneath" the chassis (which would mean i would have to pull it out somehow while everything's still connected)?
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
Superully
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« Reply #200 on: January 06, 2012, 01:53:55 PM »

to narrow down if you got a wire problem, take a piece of wire and short it with ground on the same connector (that is ac close you can get to the pcb)

if it works then, you might have a wire problem further in the harness..

will do as adviced! the thing is: i bought this pcb as fully working and i'm pretty sure it is because the guy who sold it to me is one of the good guys Cool. therefore i assume the problem has to be somewhere else (that is: the harness). i'll try to add credits with the method suggested and report back later!
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« Reply #201 on: January 06, 2012, 01:58:33 PM »

one more thing: i've also looked for this horizontal raster alignment thing and had to realize that the jumper which was supposed to be there is not installed. the jumper for the vertical raster shift is there, you can see it on the following picture at the very bottom, it's the black thing with the yellow wire attached to it arrow



another shot of the horizontal centering tab: three empty pins, nothing there Cry. damn, would have been so easy ...

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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
Superully
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« Reply #202 on: January 06, 2012, 02:50:40 PM »

back from the test run, shorted pin a (ground) with pin j (coin 1) and on the other side of the connector pin 1 (ground) with pin 8 (coin 2) arrow no reaction at all!!! Cry

looks like the harness is ok and there's another problem! yesterday i talked about the cmos ram because in the manual you can read the following:



the thing is: i have no idea where that W1 (jumper) is supposed to be on the video board nor do i know of a cmos battery anywhere on the boards.

one more thing: when i put the game in test mode, the screen states all RAM is good, after that it keeps resetting, displaying the same test screen again.

a guy on KLOV seemed to have the same issue, unfortunately his thread ends without a solution (at least he didn't post one).

here are some (slightly blurry) pictures taken from a spare non-working set i got from oll (thx again) to give you an idea of the individual boards. perhaps your eyes are better than mine (again)!

first up, the game board with the rom board on top arrow



up next, the cpu board arrow



finally, the video board which is supposed to have the blue W1 jumper arrow



if you need detailed pictures, just let me know!

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polderarcade
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« Reply #203 on: January 06, 2012, 03:13:50 PM »

Top of the video board the two bic black things
Think that are chips chips whit battery included
I am not sure I am also still in the learning process
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #204 on: January 06, 2012, 04:10:30 PM »

Top of the video board the two bic black things
Think that are chips chips whit battery included
I am not sure I am also still in the learning process


looks like normal chips to me, just they have sockets under them so they look bigger..
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Superully
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« Reply #205 on: January 06, 2012, 04:23:19 PM »

i don't know if the mystery battery has to be sought on the video board, it's just that that blue jumper W1 is supposed to be there!
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #206 on: January 06, 2012, 04:46:19 PM »

do you have a link to the manual, i cannot find it  Undecided
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italiandoh
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« Reply #207 on: January 06, 2012, 04:49:02 PM »

how / where do i have to measure this now, that is: which lead (black / red) goes where? it's ac voltage, right? do i have to measure this from "underneath" the chassis (which would mean i would have to pull it out somehow while everything's still connected)?

Black lead to any GND point on the chassis, usually metal parts or heat sinks. Look for a good test point on the schematics.
Red lead to any of those three points, measuring touching the leads of a component that connects there.
They are all DC voltages.

Matteo
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Superully
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« Reply #208 on: January 06, 2012, 04:56:28 PM »

do you have a link to the manual, i cannot find it  Undecided

here you go! be prepared for some pretty bad scans though ...
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ataritoobin
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« Reply #209 on: January 06, 2012, 06:49:59 PM »

I could be wrong, but perhaps this wording in the manual was accidentally left over from the Taito America Qix-type hardware games?

I'm not aware of any CMOS batteries on the Taito SJ hardware games.  Huh?
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