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Author Topic: [Restoration] The King of the Jungle: Aaayihiah-Yihi-Ahauauooooo  (Read 146465 times)
atarikid
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« Reply #120 on: August 22, 2011, 12:43:44 PM »

Insane stuff !! Shocked
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Superully
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« Reply #121 on: August 22, 2011, 08:15:53 PM »


ok, time to work on the wiring problem! i hope to solve it with the help of you guys ... Space Ace Space Ace Space Ace

be warned, this is going to be a long posting with a lot of pictures and if you really want to help me, you'd better grab something to drink first and take your time going through it ... Wink

as i've stated before, i have a wiring harness which has been modified to be used with a switching power supply. i don't have any part of the original power supply at all, but in order to show you the differences / hacks i'm going to include pictures of the original wiring.

let's start with a general overview of a jungle king cabinet:
on the left you can see the pcb on top of which sits the filter board (can anyone tell me what the function of it is? and don't just tell me "it filters something out" please Tongue). inside, at the bottom of the cabinet, you can see the original power supply and on the cabinet's left side hangs a strange black "box" of which i have no idea at all what it is (a data recorder like the ones used on airplanes perhaps)? Cheesy



and here's the original power supply (note that i had to stitch two pictures together to show you the entire thing. not perfect, but it'll do)



i don't have that original power supply, my harness came with a switcher - and as you can see it is a 120v version



i openend it up, but there's no jumper / connector to change it to 240v (which doesn't mean i couldn't simply replace it by a 240v version)



let's start at the very beginning, the point where the power "enters" the cabinet through the line filter (where i blew the varistor). note the black / white / green wires on the right



normally, those wires eventually go into the power supply (see original setup where i marked the appropriate connector)



alright, i'm missing power so far, let's go through all the wires / connectors of the harness(es) i have, starting with the one with two interlock switches and the on / off switch



as you can see, someone has spliced in a brown wire with two connectors which have to be attached to the switching power supply, but where? 120v?



normally, without the spliced in brown wire, those two bigger white connectors go into the original power supply (you can see the on / off switch in the background)



up next, a part of the harness which causes no problems (yeah!!!), but i wanted to show it to you anway



those five nicely labeled connectors slide into the lower row of the filter board



here's the original setup



now there are only three connectors left





the same three connectors on the original pcb (one is not visible, but i've marked the wires to illustrate where it leads)



now it's starting to get complicated with THIS arrow Shocked Shocked Shocked



let's go through the wires / connectors individually, starting with two connectors labeled P4. as you can see, some of the wires have been cut and once again two new black wires have been spliced in (position 3 of the connectors). the manual says that the black wires on position 3 are GROUND, therefore the spliced in black wires will be connected to the switcher's GROUND, right? (note that i put the ground label on the wires there myself just to make sure i don't forget)



here's the original setup: the two P4 connectors connected to the original power supply



up next we have something called secondary bracket in the manual. two connectors / wires are coming out of it, one labeled 120 and the other one labeled 6.3 (in the manual listed as 120vac and 6.3vac). once again, here's the original setup arrow



and here you can see those two connectors (on the right) on the harness, the black one ends in the connector on the left and this is supposed to power the monitor (with 120vac). however, i have NO IDEA where / how to connect other of those two (120 & 6.3) connectors! i really don't!!! Huh?



the 6.3 line ends in a green connector which eventually power the marquee lights and the instruction lights. question: are those really powered by alternating current? here's a picture of the instruction lights harness arrow



now it gets a little bit easier (for a while): the following connectors all go to the upper part of the filter board. the wires with the grey coating at the bottom of the picture are the ones for the monitor



here's the other end of that grey line (labeled by moi)



the original monitor hook-up ...



... plus the original filter board connections - no problems here!



i'm afraid we have to look at those filter board connectors again. to be more specific, let's have a look at the two V1 connectors and especially at those red and white wires (i've circled them)



those wires end in "switcher connectors" again and the manual states the red wires as +5V and the white wires as M RESET. m reset? what the f*** is that? never heard before! where do i connect those to a switcher?



good news guys, we're almost done! but one mystery remains: very close to the filter board connectors there is a tiny connector with a black and a white wire



if you follow those wires, they end with the coin door connector, therefore i'm pretty sure those wires are there to power a coin counter. the problem is: where does that rectangular connector  (the one pictured before) connect to? i couldn't find it on the internet pictures and there's no free space anywhere to connect it to! is it possible that it has to go somewhere on the main pcb because it's close to the filter board? (I don't have a board here yet, so i can't check)



one last thing: does anyone know where the following connector has to be attached to? Grin (man, if everything was that easy)



that's it guys, thx a lot for your patience to read all that stuff, i can't wait to read your replies and hear your input! if you need any more pictures, just say so ...
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
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« Reply #122 on: August 22, 2011, 08:35:11 PM »

...you'd better grab something to drink first and take your time going through it ...



 Wink
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Superully
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« Reply #123 on: August 22, 2011, 08:41:35 PM »

michael isn't eating his popcorn, bruno, that animated gif doesn't work for me ...
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #124 on: August 22, 2011, 08:52:49 PM »

[coffee drinking mode on]

I'll answer some of the easy questions  Grin

on the left you can see the pcb on top of which sits the filter board (can anyone tell me what the function of it is?

"it filters something out"

sorry , i could not resist  Grin Grin Grin

Quote
on the cabinet's left side hangs a strange black "box" of which i have no idea at all what it is

that is a heatsink, i bet there is a power transistor on it in the original setup

Quote
i openend it up, but there's no jumper / connector to change it to 240v (which doesn't mean i couldn't simply replace it by a 240v version)

Thats your only option, or use a stepdown transformer in front of that (which is more expensive as a 220v switcher i think)

Quote
as you can see, someone has spliced in a brown wire with two connectors which have to be attached to the switching power supply, but where? 120v?

yep, that is where they "took" 110 volts that went to the switcher, which will be going to youre replacement 230 volt switcher.

Quote
Let's go through the wires / connectors individually, starting with two connectors labeled P4. as you can see, some of the wires have been cut and once again two new black wires have been spliced in (position 3 of the connectors). the manual says that the black wires on position 3 are GROUND, therefore the spliced in black wires will be connected to the switcher's GROUND, right? (note that i put the ground label on the wires there myself just to make sure i don't forget)

again you are correct  Wink

Quote
and here you can see those two connectors (on the right) on the harness, the black one ends in the connector on the left and this is supposed to power the monitor (with 120vac). however, i have NO IDEA where / how to connect other of those two (120 & 6.3) connectors! i really don't!!! Huh?

the 6.3 line ends in a green connector which eventually power the marquee lights and the instruction lights. question: are those really powered by alternating current? here's a picture of the instruction lights harness arrow

the marquee lights are normal 6.3 volt lightbulbs which will work with either DC or AC  Cool
so just replace them by 12 volt lightbulbs and hook that up to the 12 volt output of the switcher.

looking again, i count 3 lights, so i guess they go to the instructioncard under the bezel..

as for the monitor, that will depend on the monitor you are going to use, some require a isolation transformer, and more important, a 220 volts or 110 volts monitor, which will require another transformer if you are going to feed the cab 220 volts...

cant help you with the rest my friend..

[coffee drinking mode off]
« Last Edit: August 22, 2011, 08:58:46 PM by Etienne » Logged
Superully
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« Reply #125 on: August 22, 2011, 09:09:24 PM »

thx for your input, hope the coffee was fine Grin

my turn again  arrow

yep, that is where they "took" 110 volts that went to the switcher, which will be going to youre replacement 230 volt switcher

first of all, i guess i'll be using a step down converter because as far as i know the monitor is running on 120v (aren't they all?).

and then: where does the switcher itself get its power from? if i connect the brown wires to the 120v switcher connectors, it still is not connected to the wall socket itself (or am i just not getting it?)

the marquee lights are normal 6.3 volt lightbulbs which will work with either DC or AC  Cool
so just replace them by 12 volt lightbulbs and hook that up to the 12 volt output of the switcher.

looking again, i count 3 lights, so i guess they go to the instructioncard under the bezel..

makes sense, but what i have to do is remove the green wires from the connector and attach them with one of those "hook connectors" to the switcher, right? the question is: why hasn't this already been done? probably the guy who had the harness ran it in combination with the original power supply and got the power for the lights from there?

as for the lights, the power goes through the marquee bulbs first, exits on the other side and then goes to the instruction card, but i left the marquee lights out in order to not make the posting more complicated Cheesy but well-spotted!

as for the monitor, that will depend on the monitor you are going to use, some require a isolation transformer, and more important, a 220 volts or 110 volts monitor, which will require another transformer if you are going to feed the cab 220 volts...

as i've said, i will be using the monitor which was in the cab. isolation transformer? hmmm, don't have one. i'm confused  Huh?
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #126 on: August 22, 2011, 09:48:51 PM »

the wirepart with the interlock swithces is connected to that "block on the original powersupply with that wall socket"

that block is powered by your mains cord that goes through the EMI filter. but since you dont have a part of the original power supply i think you need to connect the mains comming from the EMI filter to that harness straight away

do you get what i am saying ?

you can also leave all that sh#t out and connect the 110 volts directly to the swithcer since there is no old powersuppy anymore.
which also gives a nice space to mount that stepdown converter..  Grin

that also eliminates the problem with the varistor, because that modern powerswitcher can be connected straight to mains iirc.

as for the lights, i think you are right , they used a part from the old setup, i bet its connected straight to the transformer (on a connector that outputs 6,3 volts probably)
again, you dont have that part, so you need to find a way to juice up those lamps, and i would suggest to use the 12 volt line, since the board is already drawing alot of power from the 5 volt line, and in that way you dont overload the 5 volt line.

I hope i explaned clearly  Cheesy

ps, looking again, i think that filterboard is part of the powersupply, and maybe not even nessecary if you use a swithcer, since that delivers "clean" power
but thats just a thought, somebody please confirm my theory .
all i see there is a bunch of resistors, ferrite cores, and 1 transistor (which could also be a voltage regulator like a 7805 or something)
« Last Edit: August 22, 2011, 09:58:37 PM by Etienne » Logged
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« Reply #127 on: August 23, 2011, 11:11:44 AM »

one more thing that i've noticed. i've seen a lot of coin counters being wired with some kind of bridge between the two wires going in. before i'm trying to explain "my a** off", let me show you two examples, one from the original shinobi setup and one from a real jungle king cab. notice that there's always that bridge on top of the connector arrow





now if those two wires "i have left" next to the coin door connector are really for the coin counter, would you wire those in as well as shown on the pictures, that is black wire on one side, white wire on the other and then such a bridge to connect both of them? what's the function of that bridge?



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« Reply #128 on: August 23, 2011, 11:33:52 AM »

that bridge looks like a diode to me..

maybe you can trace the wire's back to see where they go, and i read here something about connecting it :

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=169674

dont know if that is the same case with a jungle king board ?
« Last Edit: August 23, 2011, 11:43:09 AM by Etienne » Logged
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« Reply #129 on: August 23, 2011, 11:40:28 AM »

that bridge looks like a diode to me..

looking closer, that's indeed possible! will have to look closer when i'm going to "visit my machine" later that day. what's the function of that diode then? need or no need? can i simply steal it from the shinobi harness then?
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
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« Reply #130 on: August 23, 2011, 11:46:06 AM »

earlier post updated  Grin

dont know exactly how they work inside, but it could be that this counters dont have inner diodes..
which could mean that they work with AC power pulses, and that the board is giving DC pulses, or only ground pulses if its the same case as the threath that i posted before..

i think you defenetly can steal it from the shinobi harness since that worked in combi with the meters i guess..

what does the wiring scheme of jungle king say ?
(do you have a wirescheme of jungle king / taito cab) ?
« Last Edit: August 23, 2011, 11:48:08 AM by Etienne » Logged
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« Reply #131 on: August 23, 2011, 06:05:07 PM »

what's the function of that diode then?

Protection diodes for relays
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« Reply #132 on: August 24, 2011, 01:48:37 AM »

you can also leave all that sh#t out and connect the 110 volts directly to the swithcer since there is no old powersuppy anymore.
which also gives a nice space to mount that stepdown converter..  Grin

that also eliminates the problem with the varistor, because that modern powerswitcher can be connected straight to mains iirc.

so basically what you're saying is the following:
- throw out the line filter thingy
- run a power line (240v) directly into the cab to a stepdown converter
- from the stepdown converter run a line (120v now) directly into the switcher
- connect those two brown wires of the interlock switch / on off harness to the AC connectors of the switchers as well (so that the on off switch / interlocks work)

what about the monitor? where does this get its power from?
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all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!
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« Reply #133 on: August 24, 2011, 08:36:45 AM »

i am edditing pictures now, so i will post that later

here some info about isolation transformers:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isolation_transformer

some monitors require te be connected with the use of an isolation transformer.

i dont know if that is the case with the monitor that you are going to use, and there exist also monitors that operate on 230 volts.
(the replacement monitor in Andre's joust for example, that one was possible to connect it straight to the 230 volt line without isolation transformer)

but as far as this shinobi jungle king cab it looks like they always run it on 110 volts ( using the switcher as a refference for that)
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« Reply #134 on: August 24, 2011, 09:14:30 AM »

Okay, back to this..

First i tried to analyse the path of the power in your harness,
can you check if this is correct by following the wires ? :



it looks like there are 2 pairs going in the harness and 2 pairs comming out.
green and red are in, and yellow and blue are out.

anyway, whatever the outcome is , that is pure for instructing you into the right way of connecting it with your wireharness.

the setup can be one of the following :







The pictures speak for them self i think ?, or do i need to give detail explanation on every pic ?

and looking at it again, i think you dont need a isolation transformer in the case of a stepdown transformer, because that is already "isolating" everything behind it from the mains.

(if there are people that think there is something incorrect, please correct me so i learn also from this  Grin)
« Last Edit: August 24, 2011, 09:20:17 AM by Etienne » Logged
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