Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: Superully on August 01, 2010, 04:03:29 PM
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from my first roadtrip to england (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1652.0) i brought home my holy grail, the first arcade game i've ever played, the one i've always wanted to have: MOON PATROL
because of the long school summer holidays, i have a lot of time on my hands right now to restore this game back to its former glory. enough said :arrow:
the restoration begins ...
overall the cabinet is in pretty good shape (at least at first glance), especially the sides. have a look at those pictures the seller took for me.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4848809713_cdca555c67_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4848809837_028dacd8b5_b.jpg)
everything's there: marquee, bezel, control panel
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4849430162_1e910f9f93_b.jpg)
looking at the sides closely, you can see the usual dips and scratches ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4849276876_7a64c659b3_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4848655629_d6c8709b53_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4848656053_b1c29161a6_b.jpg)
... and the typical worn corners
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4848655923_c9b29d8d05_b.jpg)
pretty bad however is the front panel where once a security bar was installed
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/4849275774_29e247bf61_b.jpg)
both coin doors will get the full powdercoating treatment
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4848653893_d803719541_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4848654731_695981281d_b.jpg)
an interesting detail can be seen on the front: obviously the guys who stamped in the registration number made an error, so they had to scratch it out and stamp in the correct number. i will "remove" that error during the restoration but try to keep the correct number intact!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4849275412_996d983b27_b.jpg)
i discovered another interesting detail when i removed the lower coin door: obviously a piece of wood from another cabinet was used for the construction of this game - you can still see the artwork on it. does anyone know which game it came from?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4848656201_7a145c1d6a_b.jpg)
on to the control panel :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4848654309_8ca96806db_b.jpg)
not bad at all, but unfortunately some cigarette burns ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4848655275_ab6ceed207.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4849276202_e88ec015e4.jpg)
... along with chunks of the overlay missing!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4849276466_597aa2cb61.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4849276798_ec2f341296.jpg)
the joystick (assembly) is rusty and will have to be rebuilt
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4849279442_9d265bc564.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4849279614_71ed83ce57.jpg)
what i've learned over the years of restoring arcade games is that most damages to the cab result from either no leg levelers or destroyed leg levelers. because of that, most of the time this is the first thing i fix when restoring a game. how are things with the moon patrol cabinet?
i've noticed that the game is difficult to move around, not because it is extremely heavy, but because there seems to be something wrong "underneath" the cab itself. let's investigate 8)
as you can see, the leg levelers and their bases are totally worn out. first of all i thought they were screwed in without any nuts, but when i removed the small pieces of wood which held the leg levelers, i realized that they had been attached the wrong way round, therefore putting the pressure on the wood and not on the nuts themselves!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4848656451_8584a4bcaf.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4848656333_708ca20c9b.jpg)
leg levelers along with their bases removed
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4848658107_b41faa5d63.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4848656615_f7b0cdc963.jpg)
woodfiller applied ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4848657791_b6fe2f7b16.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4849278628_1023cc522c.jpg)
... and sanded down. since it will be covered my the bases and especially since this is the bottom of the cabinet, i don't want to be too anal about small imperfections ;)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4848657939_573f0d13cc.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4848657335_c30dbb7f17.jpg)
the old rusty leg levelers with their wooden bases
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4848656921_3c9afae1c9_b.jpg)
i was lucky to find a cheap spare piece of probably the hardest wood around in a home depot and kindly asked one of the assistants to cut out four new firm bases for me - which he did. all this cost me 0.50 euros ;D
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4848657639_6f3644ddb0_b.jpg)
i glued on the new bases and secured them with four steel nails each - should be strong enough to support the weight now! :twisted:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4849279294_a0c50003cc_b.jpg)
looking much better than what i started with!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4849278388_ca4913a60d.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4848657041_8961e63ec1.jpg)
finally a wide angle shot of the entire setup
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4848656729_4188fe4d37_b.jpg)
to be continued ...
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Nice cab - and nice condition :-* :-* Good luck with your resto Ully :spaceace: :spaceace:
You're in competition with Bruno .... Who will finish faster this resto?
:lol:
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You're in competition with Bruno .... Who will finish faster this resto?
i know ;D! bruno most definitely will, because i haven't even received all the parts needed yet - and i'm in no hurry and will probably be a little more anal than bruno is, sometimes too anal, but that's just how i am 8)
the lunar restoration battle has begun :twisted:
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Goodluck with the resto Ully !
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i discovered another interesting detail when i removed the lower coin door: obviously a piece of wood from another cabinet was used for the construction of this game - you can still see the artwork on it. does anyone know which game it came from?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4848656201_7a145c1d6a_b.jpg)
Might be from a pinball???
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i discovered another interesting detail when i removed the lower coin door: obviously a piece of wood from another cabinet was used for the construction of this game - you can still see the artwork on it. does anyone know which game it came from?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4848656201_7a145c1d6a_b.jpg)
looks like a taito cab side to me, I've read somewhere that they used any disgarded pieces of cabinet for such parts, makes sense really - better than throwing it away ;D
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looks like a taito cab side to me
you're right, most likely wild western! would also fit the color scheme :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4852297029_8be4650134_b.jpg)
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This is pretty interesting AND weird. Moon Patrol originally was an IREM game, so how does a Taito part end up in a Williams cab ?
Maybe the cabinets themselves came from the same production factory ?
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This is pretty interesting AND weird. Moon Patrol originally was an IREM game, so how does a Taito part end up in a Williams cab ?
Maybe the cabinets themselves came from the same production factory ?
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. It's odd that a Taito piece was used.
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as you can see, the leg levelers and their bases are totally worn out. first of all i thought they were screwed in without any nuts, but when i removed the small pieces of wood which held the leg levelers, i realized that they had been attached the wrong way round, therefore putting the pressure on the wood and not on the nuts themselves!
I thought my Joust was the only cabinet with leg levellers installed in the wrong way... but it looks like other Williams cabinet have this "defect"!
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the restoration continues ...
starting with something simple: the two back doors which had a lot of holes in them. i filled those up, sanded them down and prep'ed them for two new coats of black
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/5132316360_174c8abd29_b_d.jpg)
here's one of them in nice fresh shape!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/5131715831_0196b1ee9f_b_d.jpg)
speaking of shape: this cabinet is definitely out of shape, ...
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1432/5131717581_eb2a74717a_b_d.jpg)
... so let's try to help it getting back into shape with some glue first! note: this is the back bottom of the cab, notice the worn back board with dips and scratches all over it :(
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1203/5132318864_f1eb173b99_b_d.jpg)
there are two stickers on the worn back board, one of which is hardly readable, but i want to save both of them nevertheless!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/5132315264_c4544fdec2_b_d.jpg)
so i cut out two templates and tape them on top of the stickers with blue (easy-to-remove) painters tape
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/5131716821_0702d72da8_b_d.jpg)
two coat of black later :arrow:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1119/5131715541_bb8101bb95_b_d.jpg)
mission accomplished
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/5131714999_76417f7c1f_b_d.jpg)
and the cabinet is back in shape
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/5132319000_1a971398dd_b_d.jpg)
from the back to the front: the holes where the security bar once was have been filled ...
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1047/5131713759_c77d9e892d_b_d.jpg)
... and sanded down!
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1401/5132317124_52612ec8ac_b_d.jpg)
remember: someone had accidently stamped in a wrong cab serial number which had then been scratched out and the correct one put underneath. i'm trying to hide that error while keeping the correct number intact!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/5131714769_3da0c81f20_b_d.jpg)
this is how the front looked after filling up all the holes but before applying some coats of fresh paint
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1412/5132318338_283b4522f6_b_d.jpg)
and this is how the cab looks now! unfortunately, i slipped with the roller once and painted over that strange taito board they used - let's see if i can get the paint off! you can call me "anal" now please ;)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/5132315016_27ff841e1a_b_d.jpg)
a little closer: BEFORE :arrow:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1122/5132317628_613bd43a40_b_d.jpg)
AFTER :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/5132318038_ca9aed7dff_b_d.jpg)
you might ask yourself: what about that security number? well, have a look :arrow:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1346/5132315518_c70c620968_b_d.jpg)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
to be continued ...
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Very nice, this will be an awesome restoration for an awesome game. moon Patrol is a great game as is the art on the cab.
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and this is how the cab looks now! unfortunately, i slipped with the roller once and painted over that strange taito board they used - let's see if i can get the paint off! you can call me "anal" now please ;)
Ully you are Anal ;D
But i understand your analness (hmm sounds strange) :D
Looking great!, what a little paint can do uh!
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what a little paint can do uh!
i had to use a loooooot of paint on this one, because the spots where i had to use wood filler were still shining through. good news is that they were finally covered up after 5 layers of black, bad news is that i now have a slight orange peel on the front, but it looks great nevertheless. so much better than before!!!
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and the cabinet is back in shape
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/5132319000_1a971398dd_b_d.jpg)
You make it sound like it's sooo easy but to me this is pure magic to get such a perfect result.
I can't wait to see what you're about to do on the wonderful side arts, this will inspire me a lot because I have some artworks to repair
and I'm a bit nervous to start the resto.
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and the cabinet is back in shape
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/5132319000_1a971398dd_b_d.jpg)
dunno why , but always when i see your fixes, i get the taste of a candy in my mouth :D
(http://everseradio.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/almond_nougat.jpg)
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and the cabinet is back in shape
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/5132319000_1a971398dd_b_d.jpg)
dunno why , but always when i see your fixes, i get the taste of a candy in my mouth :D
(http://everseradio.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/almond_nougat.jpg)
+1 :P :-*
Yes fantastic result Ully !!!
One question: what kind of product (brand or pic if possible :-*) do you use for this nice job? Thanks.
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One question: what kind of product (brand or pic if possible :-*) do you use for this nice job? Thanks.
are you talking about the "candy"? i've tried multiple "bondos", this one came out as one of the best. it's called PONAL DUO which is some 2-component stuff coming in two tubes. you put the two ingredients together in the quantity needed (easy to "control"), mix them up and apply them to the wood. after about an hour, the stuff has reached the consistency of a chewing gum, which you can form into the appropriate shape then. wait about a day and take out your sanding tool afterwards. the good thing is that it sticks extremely well to the wood and it is very hard. so, in short, easy to work with for great results!
i've also used some other stuff for larger areas (more on that later in this thread) which is done in 5 minutes, but it's much more complicated to get the mixture right!
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guys, unfortunately i'm at a standstill with moon patrol at the moment, because i've run into a problem of which i'm not sure how to solve! but let me backup a little bit first, because :arrow:
the restoration continues ...
because the light blue color on the sides of the cabinet is such a special shade which is impossible to find ready-to-paint, i need to have it color-matched. but because i don't want to carry the entire game down again, i've decided to cut out a piece of the cabinet which needed repair anyway. here's the piece of wood which is much easier to transport than the whole game ;)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5332882976_7f4441240e_b_d.jpg)
the "color guy of my choice" doesn't do the color matching in person (because he doesn't have a scanner), he always sends my samples in. a couple of days later he gets the color codes for mixing the paint and i'm off with a freshly mixed paint can. this time however, something unexpected happened. the "scanning guys" lost the piece of wood which i wanted to glue back onto the cabinet >:(! although it was not the "color guy's" fault (because he didn't lose it), he decided to at least give me high-quality woodfiller to compensate for my loss!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5332883140_74251cb79c_b_d.jpg)
let's give this a try! first take out the appropriate amount of "base material" ...
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5332268653_ec445a7d43_b_d.jpg)
... and add the hardener afterwards!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5332268483_1479cef002_b_d.jpg)
wow, this stuff dries quickly - five minutes and we're good to go! impressive :o!!! although not quite the desired shape yet ;)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/5332883314_97e1eae4f8_b_d.jpg)
after a lot of sanding i'm almost there - those dents you can still see on the picture have been filed afterwards
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5332883388_cc41ecb927_b_d.jpg)
now let's cover this up! here's the paint which was color-matched to the wood sample i provided. doesn't it look like a perfect match?
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5332882906_9f98c60b4e_b_d.jpg)
looking good so far, but where's the problem? well, the problem is that this blue is NOT a perfect match at all once it has dried completely - way too dark!!! so what did i do? over the course of the last few weeks (giving the paints enough time to dry through completely) i've tried tons of different color variations by adding special blue, black and white mixing colors, but i haven't been able to get even close. have a look at the bottom of the cabinet where i tried out my samples. some of them look to bright when applied, but after drying they are too turquoise, some of them look perfect when still wet but they dry out too bright - and so on and so on!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5332864310_ee7a02805c_b_d.jpg)
basically i've given up on finding the perfect match with the color-matched blue (which doesn't match at all). and now there's another problem: the "color guy of my choice" had to close down his shop and has moved over to luxembourg, so no more color mixing (at that place) for me. :'(
one option i have is cut out another piece of wood from the cabinet and send it over to bruno OR try to find another scanning guy and take the entire cabient there (because i also need the dark blue and the yellow eventually). as i've said above: i'm at a loss here on what to do and need your input / support! i want to finish this resto and finally play my favorite game!!!
HELP!!! :-*
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Are there no other paint shops in your area who can do scanning of colors ?
Full support from my side ofcourse, but on the other hand i am happy with this.
NOT to be enjoying other peoples "pain" but because now we have another guy draging cabinets to the DIY store ;D
seriousely, its a shitty situation, and i would be frustrated too.
Goodluck with the recovery of this, im sure you will find a solution !
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I am not a "colour wizard", but wouldn't some white paint added to that "darker blue when dry" allow you to reach a better matching colour? :oops:
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I am not a "colour wizard", but wouldn't some white paint added to that "darker blue when dry" allow you to reach a better matching colour? :oops:
that's exactly what i was thinking and i got the perfect mixing colors from my "(ex) color guy" for free, but when i add white the blue changes its color as well. as i've said before: i've really tried at leat 30 combinations / variations. of course the best thing would be to drag the cab to a shop, but this would mean carrying it down those 1000 starts and later back up again (ask andré ;)). i would find another scanning shop for sure (even if this means driving 30 to 40 kilometers, but i'm not sure whether that would create the desired results. sometimes the colors are spot on (jungle king), sometimes they are off (moon patrol). i've been thinking of getting one of those color scanners (http://www.brillux.de/presse/pressemeldungen/pablo-digital-1625/?PHPSESSID=wrmvmscioimok) which allows you to scan the colors at home and carry the results to a paint shop to have the colors mixed, but they are damn expensive (around 400 euros). although i would need it quite often, it's simply too much atm.
and as i've said before, it's not just the lught blue, i still need dark blue and yellow as well!!! i'm not ready to give up yet, i just need some fresh ideas.
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ully
i started a thread on paint codes for restos on byoac, http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=84492.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=84492.0) , thought id post the link as it may have info for other restorations you may do, it links to further information too, which is where i found this http://www.gamestencils.com/index.php?sc_page=41 (http://www.gamestencils.com/index.php?sc_page=41)
scroll down it has codes for moon patrol, you've probably seen them but i thought id post just in case, they may be worth trying :)
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I used to work at a professional paint dealer, and if we were asked to mix a color to match we just took a number of color charts (DE:farbfächer, NL:kleurenwaaier) outside (because daylight is the best light to compare colors) and looked which color was the best match. I think we had about 40 different charts which always gave us a good color, and there were about 50.000 different colors in our computer, while "normal" paintstores usually have no more than about 20.000 or so (which is still a lot though :) )
Maybe you can try to find a professional store (in Holland, these companies are mostly on small business parks, and don't sell to private persons) and ask them if they can find a matching color.
In my experience you can find an almost perfect match by using color charts, a colorsample, daylight and a good set of eyes.
A colorscanner doesn't necessarily do a better job than the human eye.
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scroll down it has codes for moon patrol, you've probably seen them but i thought id post just in case, they may be worth trying :)
i've seen the color codes for MP, but in order to have the paint mixed i'd need the appropriate base which is not available over here!
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Ully, the wood filler you got for free is what the American guys call Bondo !
Brilliant stuff.
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Maybe you can try to find a professional store (in Holland, these companies are mostly on small business parks, and don't sell to private persons) and ask them if they can find a matching color.
since i only have ONE color chart here and those things aren't cheap, i'll most likely have to drag the cabinet downstairs again and bring it to a professional shop (yes, etienne :D). i have three colors to match and this is the best solution for sure. i can waste tons of time mixing colors which don't match eventually or i can decide to pass this job on to somebody who knows what he's doing. the problem is going to be to find qualified persons at a professional store! let's see ...
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If you send me that sample part from your cab, I can go to my usual paint shop & scan the color for you, no problem ;)
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If you send me that sample part from your cab, I can go to my usual paint shop & scan the color for you, no problem ;)
Let him drag that cab to your store nuno, i will like to see the faces of them seeing the 3th cab entering the store ;D
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If you send me that sample part from your cab, I can go to my usual paint shop & scan the color for you, no problem ;)
i would have long done that, bruno (my initial thought), BUT - as i've written above - the guys LOST the sample. of course i could cut out a new one and fix the hole again, but what about the dark blue and the yellow (although i think finding the correct shade of yellow will be much easier than this stupid blue). perhaps i should give this a try first with a sample of light blue sent to bruno's place - this would save me a lot of trouble. but it hurts having to operate on the cab again ...
@bruno: how close are the color matches you've got from your shop? 100%? 95%? finding a perfect color match is damn difficult ...
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how close are the color matches you've got from your shop? 100%? 95%? finding a perfect color match is damn difficult ...
Almost impossible :?, I would say :roll:
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@bruno: how close are the color matches you've got from your shop? 100%? 95%? finding a perfect color match is damn difficult ...
I won't use a value to describe the level of 'matching', but I would say pretty pretty close! Even perfect regarding my DK Red (see this segment (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=339.msg2130#msg2130)), or the yellow for my Q*bert (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=339.msg2130#msg2130).
I plan to go once again to that shop in order to scan my Popeye by the way ;)
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I won't use a value to describe the level of 'matching', but I would say pretty pretty close! Even perfect regarding my DK Red
ok dad ;), i'll try to get another piece from the cab so that you can have it scanned. i'll let you know once the "operation" is done!
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[...] i'll let you know once the "operation" is done!
SuperUlly Cabinet Surgery ;D
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SuperUlly Cabinet Surgery ;D
speaking of which: let's start the operation!!! here comes doctor mad :twisted:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5351880746_78ce4fb3c7_b_d.jpg)
i've decided to perform the necessary surgical intrusion right next to the old "wound"
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5351880698_baee0c0045_b_d.jpg)
in order to not make any unnecessary cuts, i'm marking the correct size on "the patient"
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/5351880378_7bb3dc05b2_b_d.jpg)
everything's set, bring on the scalpel, doctor mad!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5206/5351880466_2e961ee865_b_d.jpg)
after some precise surgical cuts, a cruder medical tool is used to slowly lift off the object
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5351267625_a0c29ce49f_b_d.jpg)
works like a charm!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5351267965_8bc70cf072_b_d.jpg)
after a long, exhausting operation, the object can be extracted (note: i don't smoke, that yellow fingernail is being caused by eating about 1000 tangerines :P)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5351268197_11f96ed3ba_b_d.jpg)
the bare wound :shock:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5086/5351268135_c59c7c0874_b_d.jpg)
of course, it needs to be treated properly to prevent an infection ;)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5242/5351267705_54ffac4bf1_b_d.jpg)
and here it is, the object which could help solve my color problems - i hope it is big enough!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5351268061_42befff6b1_b_d.jpg)
and off it goes to belgium where our new dad will hopefully find the time between changing diapers to have "my baby" scanned :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5351880818_2f4cdca4ab_b_d.jpg)
the operation was a full sucess - well done, doctor mad!!! :twisted:
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LOL Excellent ;D
I'll take care of this 8)
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(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5351880746_78ce4fb3c7_b_d.jpg)
Brilliant pic Ully ! :lol:
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That needs a bit of photo-shopping guys....let's make that surgeon a bit more scary ! ;D
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That needs a bit of photo-shopping guys....let's make that surgeon a bit more scary ! ;D
;D unfortunately i didn't have a medical headpiece at home, it would have made the picture even better. 8)
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No. 1:
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/muerto/arc/ullydexter.jpg)
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LOL !!!
Looks a bit Sonic style :P
Move the injection-thing to the right hand and bring back the scalpel because that's more convincing....
I want to see some head-wounds ore something like that.... ;D ;D
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Doctor MAD reminds me to Doctor Channard from Hellbound ;D
"The doctor is in..." & "Surgery is open Tiffany" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZToKsT6miQ) :lol:
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Got the sample today ;)
OK, I'll go this week to my usual paint shop for the scan.
I'll have to choice between mate, satin or bright. I use to select 'satin' for all the previous scan, so I'll do the same for this one. 8)
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Got the sample today ;)
YES!!! i was starting to get a little bit worried that i'd have to perform another operation :ghost:
OK, I'll go this week to my usual paint shop for the scan.
I'll have to choice between mate, satin or bright. I use to select 'satin' for all the previous scan, so I'll do the same for this one. 8)
great to hear, bruno, thx a lot, my goal is to have moon patrol up and running for my birthday in about a month - let's see! as for the paint, SATIN is definitely the way to go! i'll keep my fingers crossed that your shop can yield a better result than mine.
btw, i don't know which can sizes they offer, but 0.375 litres are enough. shouldn't be less so in case i'll have to adjust the paint a little bit ...
thx again, DAD! ;D
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I had to do some shopping this afternoon with my wife & daughter. Fortunately for you, I got yout sample with us...just in case I had enough time to stop to that paint shop ;)
So here we go :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/forforum2/ullypaint1.jpg)
They are now using a new machine-scanner / paint provider (LEVIS). Hope this will as accurate as the previous one...
Man @ work :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/forforum2/ullypaint2.jpg)
Result on screen + preparation of the custom color :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/forforum2/ullypaint3.jpg)
Now few minutes inside that shaking machine :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/forforum2/ullypaint4.jpg)
Job done! 8)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/forforum2/ullypaint5.jpg)
Now in front of me :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/forforum2/ullypaint6.jpg)
0.5 liter is the lowest I can have.
Here's what I paid for that : 19,80€
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/forforum2/ullypaint7.jpg)
I'll send you the paint asap, and let you know the total with shipping cost via PM ;)
:)
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They are now using a new machine-scanner / paint provider (LEVIS). Hope this will as accurate as the previous one...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/forforum2/ullypaint1.jpg)
looks (and works) like the one i've set my eyes on :arrow:
(http://www.farbimpulse.de/uploads/pics/1625-0000-0000_02.jpg)
I'll send you the paint asap, and let you know the total with shipping cost via PM ;)
YEZZZ!!! thx so much for doing this, bruno! can't wait to try out the paint. Let's see how good that scanner is ...
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And you have a nice Nintendo Climber handheld Bruno! ;D
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And you have a nice Nintendo Climber handheld Bruno! ;D
Well spotted... I'm testing it right now! Great one... I didn't know it :P
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... and paint can sent this after noon by mail.... fingers crossed for the best color match :P
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you're the man! can't wait to give it a try - let's see what this new scanner is capable of ...
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that's an awesome little machine, that paint recognizer :shock:
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What do they cost ?
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What do they cost ?
around 400 euros! i could get a new one for 370 euros. i've offered the seller 200 bucks, but he didn't take my offer. i wonder why ... ;)
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i want to have the game up and running for my birthday in 2 1/2 weeks, so i need to hurry a little bit. i'll be posting an update on the color issue in a short while, but for now my main goal is to get the game up and running. remember, after we had brought it upstairs, it kept resetting and eventually the +5V led on the power supply board went out, so there was cleary an issue with the voltages. i checked the connectors on the power supply and found that one of them was broken and even burnt. i've learned since then that this is a common issue an williams power supply boards and that this connector (amongst other stuff) needs to be replaced!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5133/5410230284_b46d8d9a36_b_d.jpg)
i got some friendly help from a KLOV guy ("dokert" :-*) who's going to assist me in the repairs, but in the meantime i wanted to make sure the game is working apart from the power supply issue, so i pulled out a switcher and one of those bob roberts williams switching power supply kits and set up a temporary testing station :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5410230218_d48115cc5a_b_d.jpg)
all the voltages checked out fine, so i anxiously turned on the game - here's what i got on the screen :(
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5410229754_9f3700cb7c_b_d.jpg)
as if the game wanted to play a round of hangman with me ;)!
anyway, it looked like some sort of vertical collapse to me, so i contacted dokert again and he told me to pull the chassis and check two white ceramic resistors. you can see them on the following picture in the top right corner :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/5409617607_0a3812b6d5_b_d.jpg)
here's a closeup. they looked fine to me, but dokert also suggested reflowing the solder joints, ...
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5409618247_eba251e0af_b_d.jpg)
... so i turned the chassis around and immediately realized that one of the joints had cracked :evil:! i removed the old solder and re-attached the capacitors with new one
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/5410230100_cd16ef66a9_b_d.jpg)
after that, i put the chassis back in, discharged the monitor again (which was a good thing to do, because i still got sparks and some crackle), re-connected all the wires and turned the game on. to be honest, i wasn't expecting it to work, but see for yourself :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5409617923_ff6127fe06_b_d.jpg)
another "YES, BABY!!!" :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
picture is crisp, need to work on the orientation though a little bit, but it's as good as it can get! so i plugged in the control panel and tested if everything was working (left, right, jump, fire) - BINGO!!!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5410229944_bb2c486d8c_b_d.jpg)
now "all i need to do" is finish the paint job and be done with it! i'll be rebuilding the original power supply nevertheless (at least i'll be trying to), but for now i know that i can play the game once the cosmetic part is done! YES, BABY
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Great to see that its working Ully !
Sometimes it can be so simple... (and sometimes not.....) :twisted:
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Great job, you shouldn't call yourself an electric noob from now. ;D
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Nice one !
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the restoration continues ...
i'm a guy who likes trying out new stuff in real life (i'd call myself adventurous), so i thought why not give something a try which i had read about on the KLOV forum. it's called bluing, a process in which steel is partially protected against rust. i wanted to try this out because spraying the screws black makes them look nice, but is not very durable. so after a lot of searching around, i found the required stuff in a german weapon's shop (:shock: 8))!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5411026356_27b5ecda57_b_d.jpg)
be careful, this stuff can be dangerous to your health!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/5410416935_003c35f252_b_d.jpg)
i also got myself a bluing pen to touch up smaller areas
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5411028200_b593152c9a_b_d.jpg)
basically what you do is dip the screw (or the desired part) into the liquid ...
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5214/5411028920_4954660952_b_d.jpg)
... and watch it turn black - or not! looks more brown to me than black :(
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/5411028742_3712059f8c_b_d.jpg)
i read that adding a little wd-40 should improve the results
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/5411027974_7264d7515b_b_d.jpg)
but i still don't like what i saw!!! :'(
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/5411028516_dc30bbfe1b_b_d.jpg)
don't know if i did anything wrong or if the results can be imrpoved, but for now i'd call this an epic fail! i wished it would have turned out as black as the following guy 8) :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/5410454075_51a7be8be2_z_d.jpg)
ok, back to the "spraying board". moon patrol uses tons of bolts to keep various parts in place, so here we go :o
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5411031498_13908f3731_b_d.jpg)
i'd like to use the opportunity to introduce you to my cozy "spraying booth" - here's the staircase leading upstairs!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/5410419887_ab750d9f38_b_d.jpg)
here's what it looks like at the top of the stairs
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5411030634_f10833151d_b_d.jpg)
when you turn your head to the left, here's what you see - doesn't it look somewhat scary? i'm always a little bit scared when i go up there in the evening :ghost:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/5410420677_54d74213aa_b_d.jpg)
in the middle of the attic (where i still cannot stand up entirely) i've set up a small workspace
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/5411032850_8742055c79_b_d.jpg)
up here, i don't have to worry about overspray or unhealthy vapors. however, since the roof is NOT insulated AT ALL there are minus degrees up there in winter and sauna temperatures in summer - reminds me of my apartment below! ;) :-[
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/5411032500_df5b633b92_b_d.jpg)
just a small selection of freshly-sprayed bolts!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/5411029954_8f69416fcc_b_d.jpg)
to be continued ...
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(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5410229944_bb2c486d8c_b_d.jpg)
Holy moly! - they sure know what they are talkong about on (http://www.opdenkelder.com/muerto/sig/klov.png) :!: :!: :!:
And looking very good Ully! WOW!
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(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/5410419887_ab750d9f38_b_d.jpg)
in the middle of the attic (where i still cannot stand up entirely) i've set up a small workspace
Nice C64 you have there ;)
I know how it feels in you attic, mine is the same, i cannot stand straight, but im thinking of making a worktable there with a chair, then i dont hit my head ;D
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Nice C64 you have there ;)
i left it there on purpose for you guys. unfortunately it is broken!!! :'(
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Great work so far Ully! When a monitor start working as it should is always the best gratification :spaceace:
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Nice C64 you have there ;)
i left it there on purpose for you guys. naturally it is broken!!! :'(
There...fixed that...
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the restoration continues ... with the control panel!
time to get the old overlay off. remember, it had some cigarette burns and holes in it
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5410518981_de19fbb907_b_d.jpg)
it comes off pretty easily, but you can already see the nasty glue underneath
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5411129960_ef759268f2_b_d.jpg)
the blank control panel - still full of glue!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5018/5410518701_1dde1bbae8_b_d.jpg)
i'm using a heat gun and a scraper - almost like andre's patented control panel cooking method ;D
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5411032238_8c1a9dde11_b_d.jpg)
nasty! i should put those in a plastic bag and sell them as raisins ;)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5410421467_fb5e3c4a7a_b_d.jpg)
i'm filling the holes where the screws hold the metal plate in place to make sure you don't see them through the overlay
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/5411034696_aac6f4230c_b_d.jpg)
bring on that fresh overlay! 8)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5053/5410422613_1007a3ded6_b_d.jpg)
here it is - courtesy of arcadeshop.com
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5411029492_3a14fd79c1_b_d.jpg)
in position, ready to be applied
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5410426299_3998e59659_b_d.jpg)
it starts off easily ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/5410425857_83a50c4ba4_b_d.jpg)
... but gets more complicated! because of the two large bends it keeps rocking back and forth, so i'm fixing it to the table with clamps!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5410425463_789979f910_b_d.jpg)
fits like a glove
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5410424973_0f6e4ec027_b_d.jpg)
the quality of that reproduction overlay is P-E-R-F-E-C-T
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/5411033892_faab0d00a7_b_d.jpg)
the final result: new buttons installed, joystick cleaned & rebuilt :-*
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5411035816_d1f5d134f0_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/5411034288_91279fcb0c_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5411026852_92f73b7655_b_d.jpg)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
to be continued ...
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Woooowwww !!!! So sexy :-*
Congrats :spaceace: as always :lol:
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The new overlay is looking great Ully!
those on the other hand look like Boogers to me... (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/puke.gif) ;D
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5410421467_fb5e3c4a7a_b_d.jpg)
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those on the other hand look like Boogers to me...
uaaaahhhhhhhhhh - what have you got in your nose, etienne? :lol:
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What ? No CPO cooking ? See, that's why you've got glue rests....
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What ? No CPO cooking ? See, that's why you've got glue rests....
don't know if CPO cooking and wood are such a perfect match ...
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But, isn't that a metal top layer on there ?
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But, isn't that a metal top layer on there ?
it is, but the metal is just a piece of the panel, the entire thing was "soaked" in glue! btw, what are you doing here, andré, shouldn't you be working on a panel yourself? ;)
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Almost finished.....
Mmmmmm, you could have used a microwave. That will have a lot of effect on the metal, but little on the wood....
(Just kidding).
It looks like the metal is simply screwed to the wood ?
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One word...
REWLS! :spaceace:
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Should you ever want to try the blue on bolts again, spin the bolt in a drill with some 400 grit sandpaper to rough it up and get rid of any galvanization.. then dip it a few times, put it back in the drill and buff with some paper towel. They always look yucky to me right out of the dip too, but the final buff makes them nice!
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the restoration continues (i need to get this finished for my birthday - two weeks and counting ...)
a couple of days ago, i received a package from belgium
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5259/5422118092_e9e7c84be6_b_d.jpg)
inside, two missing puzzle pieces: the sample sheet i had cut out of the cabinet and a big can of paint which bruno had scanned for me from the sample
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5422118464_ac832286c8_b_d.jpg)
i can't resist, i have to compare the two puzzle pieces immediately if there is a match between them - and at first glance there definitely is :)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5422118274_3fecb37907_b_d.jpg)
but before trying out the paint directly on the cabinet, i need to close up the wound which had been left by the operation earlier
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/5422116888_dca226e0b0_b_d.jpg)
adding some glue for the "healing process" ...
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5422117130_688aeef619_b_d.jpg)
... and some weight to keep it firmly in place!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5421510895_239c44f3e5_b_d.jpg)
back in place, but still not finished - more cosmetic surgery to be performed
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5422117650_a0c1af84f0_b_d.jpg)
filling the cuts with woodfiller (and evening out some imperfections of the "first patient" on the right)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5421510749_76dd560c14_b_d.jpg)
here we go, the patient after making a full recovery! :-*
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5421511227_b245c43bfd_b_d.jpg)
now i can finally try bruno's paint on the real deal: my beloved moon patrol cabinet. for testing purposes, i'll by applying some paint in two different spots. directly after painting it on, i'm shocked: the paint is way too bright! :o :o :o
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5251/5421511889_8e7a1e2a29_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5422118810_f4fd3c8954_b_d.jpg)
fortunately i soon realize that the paint dries out much darker and after a couple of hours the final results are in - can you spot it (roughly in the middle of the following two pictures, NOT the darker spot in the lower / right edge)? it's not 100 % perfect, it's a little bit too dark, but so much better than what i had before. PLUS i've realized that there are different shades of blue on the cabinet, the upper back part is somewhat darker that the lower part, probably because of different exposures to light. i knew beforehand that touchups will never be a perfect solution, but the cab and the sideart are in such a nice condition that restencilling it would be simply stupid!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5422118942_148e8091b1_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/5421511969_4a60b9b8b5_b_d.jpg)
however, i still want it to be a little bit better and because i have so much paint, i can try some variations and i manage to come up with an almost perfect match by adding some drops of white. with that mixture in an extra can, i can finally start repainting the cabinet!
i use a small brush for the tiny imperfections ...
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5421512873_e8ca2c5bdb_b_d.jpg)
... and a foam roller for larger areas. once again, the paint starts out too bright, but eventually settles to a nice shade of blue!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5421513229_8bee45431c_b_d.jpg)
of course the touchups are visible under certain viewing angles and light conditions, but as i've stated before, i will most likely be applying a protective clear coat which will hopefully even out the differences a little bit more. nevertheless, this result was totally worthwhile all the efforts! thanks again to bruno for the paint, couldn't have done it without your help :-*
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5421513805_5628264b28_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5421513653_d2dccb1010_b_d.jpg)
two colors left: yellow and dark blue. i'll be doing some window shopping this week trying to find a matching dark blue - which is going to be close to impossible, so i've already prepared myself for another paint mixing session! as for the yellow, i'm taking a different route here, because there aren't many areas in need of touch ups - and those areas are small! so i've ordered something from the uk: a grey plastic bag! :D
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5059/5421616385_3609fd5f2b_b_d.jpg)
inside, a set of the famous american sharpie pens. i've read on several occasions that these are the pens you should get when it comes to touching up artwork (e.g. the red crystals on crystal castles)!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5422119268_e8fbee26c6_b_d.jpg)
the "blues" don't match at all, but the yellow looks very promising
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/5422120152_60608fe19b_b_d.jpg)
great, the yellow covers up those black stripes nicely! (but i've just realized that there's another light blue area which i missed)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5421514137_f64259ee0b_b_d.jpg)
here's another example: BEFORE :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5421513991_a88047bb25_b_d.jpg)
AFTER :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5171/5422120332_f8c0d03043_b_d.jpg)
here's where i stand: i've done light blue and yellow on the left side and only yellow on the right side. up next is the missing light blue on the right and then hopefully the final color: dark blue. once this is done, i'll roll on one coat of clear and put the cab back together. all the parts are finished, the game is working - BRING IT ON!!!
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
to be continued ...
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Awsome Ully !
Paint many times has that, that its final color after drying is different then when its wet.
I totally love your "patented Superully presure method" ;D
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5421510895_239c44f3e5_b_d.jpg)
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DAMN!!! just in time for my birthday tomorrow i put my moon patrol back together and played some nice rounds yesterday evening. tomorrow when i wanted to give it a go before school, all i got was the following screen :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5456132338_f2be51478e_b_d.jpg)
another vertical collapse!!! >:(
everything works, the game plays fine, music is there, but the picture is reduced to that small portion you see. so i pulled the chassis and resoldered the ceramic capacitors, but this time it didn't work - problem stayed the same. however, i had troubles with TWO soldering joints where the solder simply wouldn't stick - no matter what i did.
question: how can i clean those older solder spots, how can i make the new solder stick?
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Are you sure that it is the monitor? it could be the pcb as well. In the past I fixed pcb's of my own and have had simulair problems.
After taking off the eproms and cleaning the leggs problems sometimes where solved. When this didn't help I empty the original rom info and burned new data in it, which often solve the problem(s).
i had troubles with TWO soldering joints where the solder simply wouldn't stick - no matter what i did.
Concerning the soldering problems? Maybe this link give you some help?
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Solder-Videos%3a-Why-is-soldering-difficult-s/ (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Solder-Videos%3a-Why-is-soldering-difficult-s/)
Worstcase scenario? If i'm correct I have a good working moonpatrol (PCB) in my collection, with this you could test in which direction the problems are.
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question: how can i clean those older solder spots, how can i make the new solder stick?
Buy Flux in liquid form, and be sure to use the "old" kind of solder that contains lead. (60-40)
don't use that "lead-free" crap 8)
In the worst case, solder a "jumper wire" on the part that won't stick to the old joint and connect it to another point in your cirquit (where the trace takes you)
after that beep it through with your multimeter if its making the desired connection.
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Are you sure that it is the monitor? it could be the pcb as well. In the past I fixed pcb's of my own and have had simulair problems.
After taking off the eproms and cleaning the leggs problems sometimes where solved. When this didn't help I empty the original rom info and burned new data in it, which often solve the problem(s).
absolutely positive! the pcb is working fine, game plays nicely, it HAS TO BE the monitor - 100%
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Buy Flux in liquid form, and be sure to use the "old" kind of solder that contains lead. (60-40)
don't know where to get this here - and i sure won't be able to get it before the weekend is over if i order it online, so unfortunately this is not an option for now. i do have "old solder" with lead and most of the time it works fine, but not this time ...
In the worst case, solder a "jumper wire" on the part that won't stick to the old joint and connect it to another point in your cirquit (where the trace takes you)
after that beep it through with your multimeter if its making the desired connection.
good idea as a temporary solutions. here's a picture of the area, i've marked the two ceramic capacitor solderings in red and blue. i had problems with RED1 and RED2, the last time BLUE2 gave me some troubles. how do i know what to connect / to "jump wire"?
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5455631153_8ab1dce392_b_d.jpg)
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Youre talking about ceramic capacitors, but i think you mean resistors...
we are talking about that bulky white "blocks" right ?
anyway, take the connections from that parts that do not want to stick, and solder wire to that.
folow the cirquit trace where its going, and solder the other part of your wire there.
a picture says 1000 words;
(http://radionut53.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/mvc-660s.jpg)
you see here that they are "jumpering" the damaged trace on the pcb
do you get what i mean ?
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Youre talking about ceramic capacitors, but i think you mean resistors...
we are talking about that bulky white "blocks" right ?
stupid me, of course i mean resistors, doesn't it say Rxxx on the PCB? ;) we're definitely talking about those white blocks!
anyway, take the connections from that parts that do not want to stick, and solder wire to that.
folow the cirquit trace where its going, and solder the other part of your wire there.
i do get what you mean: i solder a wire to the "foot" of the capacitor eh resistor whose solder joint won't stick to the pcb and then solder the other end to where it is going.
the question is: WHERE IS IT GOING? 8) :P
here's a picture of the entire chassis, the two resistors are in the lower right corner :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5012/5456332510_5e34c0dc40_b_d.jpg)
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I cannot tell exactly, but "follow the traces"
This is just an example:
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/justanexample.jpg)
the trace is going from A to B for example ;)
Do you get it ?
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Use:
1) Eyes
2) DVM
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Use:
1) Eyes
2) DVM
What is DVM? :oops:
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"Da Volt Meter" ;D
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Actually it stands for Digital Volt Meter. ;D ;D ;D
However, the term is really used for meters that can do (much) more the just measuring Volts (electrical tension).
We, in Holland, call them "multimeters" which is (a bit) better term for it.
Anyway, those things can measure AC and DC voltage, amperes (current), resistance and usually have also a test mode for diodes/continuity check ("beep mode"). Some others have Capacitor measuring (which is mostly completely useless) and sometimes other things.
Here's the one I use:
(http://bp3.blogger.com/_yJZXdLdmt9A/Re7aEBXTD9I/AAAAAAAAABg/Kfz9XJiFYGQ/s400/FlukeDMM.jpg)
I love this one....As few as possible push-buttons...
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Do you get it ?
i get it for some, but not for all of them, the one in the lower left for example is clear, but what about the lower one in the middle? why from A to B to the right and not from A upwards? and what about the red one with the arrows? there are so many possibilities ...
would some more pictures help?
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Do you get it ?
i get it for some, but not for all of them, the one in the lower left for example is clear, but what about the lower one in the middle? why from A to B to the right and not from A upwards? and what about the red one with the arrows? there are so many possibilities ...
would some more pictures help?
so you do get it ;D
thats why i said "for example" 8)
everything that is in connection with a trace, is good...
all the "light green" are traces (basicly cupper covered with some green crap) and the "dark green" are the places where is no cupper
so it does not matter which point you use, as long as its connecting the points together.
Andre, help me out here, i dont know how to better explane it :wink:
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so you do get it ;D
thats why i said "for example" 8)
everything that is in connection with a trace, is good...
all the "light green" are traces (basicly cupper covered with some green crap) and the "dark green" are the places where is no cupper
so it does not matter which point you use, as long as its connecting the points together.
i get it, but does that mean than that for example i could connect BLUE2 to the solder joint two joints further to the left (labelled R311) and RED1 to RED4 or D301 further up left? or connect RED2 to the solder joint which is left of the red number 4?
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Correctly !
You get exactly what i am trying to explane
i assumed you knew "how" a pcb worked, but now you get it i think
The light is starting to burn ;D
(http://www.frenchentree.com/fe-smallholdings/images/bright_ideasmall.jpg)
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ok, i beeped through all the ceramic resistor connections - got a BEEP everywhere. nevertheless, i "jump wired" everything just to make sure, but the picture stays the same - vertical line :'(. looks like i won't be playing moon patrol anytime soon - it was fun while it lasted ... for one hour! :(
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ully, did you recapped COMPLETELY your monitor (i don't remember if you reported it in the previous pages)?
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i thought vertical lost is mostly the cause of a bad IC or transistor ?
edit:
just did a goolge for "vertical collapse monitor" and found this:
6 - Vertical collapse
Sometimes intermittent. Sometimes only partial collapse. A solid white line across the screen.
Fault with the vertical deflection circuitry. Many causes, Dry joints, elecrolytic capacitors, Vertical output I.C., vertical Oscillator etc.
source (http://www.overclockers.com.au/wiki/TV_/_Monitor_/_Fault_Diagnosis#6_-_Vertical_collapse)
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ully, did you recapped COMPLETELY your monitor (i don't remember if you reported it in the previous pages)?
nope, i didn't! could bad caps also be the reason?
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Sure they can!! Take the Sanyo EZ-20 monitor Nintendo most used: vertical collapse (and notice that you have not a 100% collapse) is very frequent and due to a bad capacitor... GO WITH A CAP KIT!
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ully, did you recapped COMPLETELY your monitor (i don't remember if you reported it in the previous pages)?
nope, i didn't! could bad caps also be the reason?
Yes it can! I got a similar problem on my POPEYE (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2157.0), and new caps definitively fixed it 8)
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Sure they can!! Take the Sanyo EZ-20 monitor Nintendo most used: vertical collapse (and notice that you have not a 100% collapse) is very frequent and due to a bad capacitor... GO WITH A CAP KIT!
does anyone know which capacitor this could most likely be? i won't have time for an entire cap kit, but i might get done a couple of them ...
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Most probably a cap on the vertical retrace circuit... anyhow, you know, it's better to substitute all the caps at the same time when the chassis is removed just to avoid caps related probs in the near future
Take your time Ully: at least you have an hint now ;)
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What monitor is this ?
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Based on a earlier posted pic, i assume that this part is for the vertical output:
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/mooncap.jpg)
So i would suggest to cap it complete, but if you dont have the time / caps i would give the red circels a try ;)
(could be that i skipped a "c" though.. )
Many times they use a "range" of numbers for a specific function, so my guess is looking for caps in the C 300 - C 399 range to replace
I circeled some in the 700 range, so i think they have nothing to do with the vertical section, and you can skip them for this problem.
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It should be an MTC900 (NOT 900/E) because of the color of the PCB and the printing of the components on the solder side... my Joust also have that monitor in
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Check the yellow points
Resolder these
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100675/mooncap/web.jpg?ver=12982041260001)
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By looking carefully again to your board it looks like this resistor (R311) has a bad joint..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/mooncap2.jpg)
beep between this leg of the resistor and the leg of C310 on the component side with your DVM to see if there is a good conductivety..
in the worst case, solder a bridge on the component side.. (not the most elegant way, but if it solves your problem ..)
and sand the legs of the parts before you do it, it could be oxidised over the years..
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I was first to see it ;D
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I was first to see it ;D
You sure did !
Credits go to robin ofcourse ;D
btw. if youre boring and want some reading on PCB design ully :
http://www.pcb123.com/tutorials/PDF%20Documents/PCBDesignTutorialRevA.pdf#search='pcbdesigntutoria l' (http://www.pcb123.com/tutorials/PDF%20Documents/PCBDesignTutorialRevA.pdf#search='pcbdesigntutoria l')
and
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_circuit_board (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_circuit_board)
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the restoration continues ... with the paint job!
you might be wondering (or not): moon patrol is supposed to be ully's number one game, why the heck doesn't he finish it? the answer is simple: because that dark blue paint has been killing me over the last few months! here's a short restrospective :arrow:
the cabinet has various scratches like the one on the following picture all over the sides
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6013/5969665500_ec7e4848d2_b_d.jpg)
as always, i want the cabinet to be as perfect as possible (especially this one), so those scratches have to go of course. for that, i bought a collection of different shades of blue ...
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6014/5969110077_8856e74548_b_d.jpg)
... and mixed them up in various proportions with the hopes of finding the perfect match for the dark blue!
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6122/5969107947_f43f7f9588_b_d.jpg)
sometimes i came really close, but most of the times my "potions" were off! mixing paint definitely is an art - and unfortunately one i'm not very good at! :(
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6143/5969665674_7958bf4abd_b_d.jpg)
with my favorite paint shop (for color scanning) closed and cutting out another piece of wood from the artwork to have it scanned by bruno not being an option i grabbed the last straw i had :arrow:
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6008/5969666734_83f7552879_b_d.jpg)
inside of that "ebay box", a tool i had already talked about in the past: the latest model of a color scanner!
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6148/5969109899_a6b2270d7e_b_d.jpg)
looks nice and seems to be of high quality
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6007/5969666126_cc55094746_b_d.jpg)
let's put this thing to the test: after an initial calibration, put it on top of the color to be scanned, ...
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6136/5969665840_c875e64146_b_d.jpg)
... press the scan button, ...
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6028/5969110383_1fac228dea_b_d.jpg)
... and let those color leds underneath do their magic!
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6125/5969108087_d14b5112cc_b_d.jpg)
the results are in :)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6012/5969666346_efb7271368_b_d.jpg)
off with the measured color code to a paint shop for an immediate test on the cabinet - looking already very good, right?
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6005/5969110559_51d75edf1d_b_d.jpg)
a careful first stroke of the brush!
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6136/5969666986_a29d222325_b_d.jpg)
the usual comparison pics: before ...
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6149/5969109181_949aeb1a22_b_d.jpg)
... and after! it's not a 100% match, but - honestly - i wasn't expecting it to be! is it even possible to find a perfect match to an almost 30 year-old color? however, it's so much better than before and really very close! the cabinet won't be portrayed in bright sunlight, it will be shoved in between other cabs, but the knowledge of having found such a nice result is what makes it count. totally worth investing the money for the color scanner, a tool i will definitely be using again in the future!
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6024/5969108661_5e1917d653_b_d.jpg)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
to be continued ...
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Wow, spot on !!! Indeed, you have to ask yourself if the color hasn't faded (probably it did) in those 30 years so 100% is never needed...
Can you bring that color scanner to Eurocade for a couple of quick paint scans of my Joust ?
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Can you bring that color scanner to Eurocade for a couple of quick paint scans of my Joust ?
no problem at all, i've put it on the "stuff to bring to eurocade" list!
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Thats cool Ully !
I need the colors of the sideart from my zacc, these look the same as they used to silkscreen the CK art...
so that would be cool if you can scan it
is there different output methods like cmyk, rgb, pantone, etc etc ?
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Have you purchased the scanner or have you rented it?
Easier than to bring the cab in the paint shop :P
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Have you purchased the scanner or have you rented it?
bought it on ebay! :)
I need the colors of the sideart from my zacc, these look the same as they used to silkscreen the CK art...
so that would be cool if you can scan it
is there different output methods like cmyk, rgb, pantone, etc etc ?
no problem at all, etienne! the scanner doesn't use output methods like the ones you mentioned, it offers a choice of various colour schemes like RAL or NCS which are used by those color mixing stations in the paint shops!
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O, bit surprised by that. RAL is pretty inaccurate, the system allows for 10% color difference.
Again, no problem for me !!
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no problem at all, etienne! the scanner doesn't use output methods like the ones you mentioned, it offers a choice of various colour schemes like RAL or NCS which are used by those color mixing stations in the paint shops!
I am not going to the paintshops, i want to use the values in Illustrator ...
Anyway, it translates like the colors that muerto gave to me when i made the galaxian bezel, so indeed no problem :
http://www.perbang.dk/rgb/004C85/ (http://www.perbang.dk/rgb/004C85/)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/colorconvert.jpg)
Description BETA: Strong azure
RGB Hexdecimal: 004C85
RGB 0÷255: 0, 76, 133
RGB %: 0, 29.8, 52.2
CMYK % 100, 43, 0, 48
HSV: 206°, 100, 52
HSL: 206°, 100, 26
CIE-L*ab: 31.5, 3, -37.5
XYZ: 6.8, 6.9, 23.2
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paint job finished!!!
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6133/6011259894_bd51c5f4e4_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6004/6010711237_ee99c7bfe3_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6135/6010710885_452d431865_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6129/6011260176_dde0793fbb_b_d.jpg)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Wow, that looks really nice Ully! Not a big fan of the game play but the cab itself is BEAUTIFUL!
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Not a big fan of the game play but the cab itself is BEAUTIFUL!
what? get out of here ... ;) :P
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Believe it or not, there are people who don't like Star Wars here....
To each his own :)
Great job Ully !
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Believe it or not, there are people who don't like Star Wars here....
star wars sucks! ;D
To each his own :)
absolutely! how boring would this hobby be if everyone had the same games?
Great job Ully !
thx guys, now "all i need to do" is fix that vertical collapse problem. i'll start with a capkit first and see if this solves anything - hopefully it does!
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hahaha, i'm sorry! ;) But the side art is definitely in my top 10!
love star wars though, but only the cockpit!
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I agree about SW. If you played the cockpit one's, the upright is just a toy.... :P
The MP side-art is nice, but they should have used at least one extra color IMHO...
I bet that vertical collapse is a contact/soldering issue, not a cap-kit issue. Check the solderings etc. !
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I bet that vertical collapse is a contact/soldering issue, not a cap-kit issue. Check the solderings etc. !
i have to do a capkit nevertheless, that's why i'm starting here. PLUS i had the problem before (wrote about it a couple of pages back), so it WAS fixed. how exactly do i check whether solderings are good or bad?
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how exactly do i check whether solderings are good or bad?
although it would be interesting to know the answer to my question, i don't need it for now, because the capkit indeed fixed the vertical collapse problem :) therefore :arrow:
the restoration ends!!!
i found a nice cosy place for the switching power supply and the step-down converter inside the cabinet right behind the coin door
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6129/6021848899_ba25d16b4b_b_d.jpg)
all the wiring and boards back inside the cab
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6139/6021857101_96a84278e0_b_d.jpg)
dip switch setting sheets laminated and tucked to the back door
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6073/6022406392_418d63cee8_b_d.jpg)
received a small package from the usa
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6079/6021855867_528a05fc5c_b_d.jpg)
the missing puzzle piece: a moon patrol high score save kit with freeplay and full attract mode - made by souzilla!
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6126/6021849261_7d23b75176_b_d.jpg)
here's what the high score table looks like: the individual courses (beginners / champions) are indicated by different (point) colors (note that in the meantime i have achieved a much better score than the one portrayed in the picture)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6202/6022411734_4a0269c1dc_b_d.jpg)
and finally, the money shots!!!
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6130/6021855029_9e72b4d979_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6076/6021849585_bd1f44b839_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6135/6021852433_fcece3b7c5_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6062/6022406840_3bc214508a_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6125/6021850063_ee7e0b5503_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6205/6022409366_464485b4be_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6198/6021852785_7dd1540e17_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6184/6022409780_90f2a5782d_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6133/6021851497_830565b5a8_b_d.jpg)
since the previous shot i have exchanged the coin return labels with the ones that etienne made for me :-*
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6200/6022413436_b4afa6eb7e_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6207/6022407844_01fee6509d_b_d.jpg)
i finally get the chance to play my number one arcade game at home - how amazing is that?
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6079/6021854533_4cd087f570_b_d.jpg)
i'm ready ... :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6202/6021856619_87949c167d_b_d.jpg)
as always, thanks to everyone around here for all your great comments, your input and help - it wouldn't have been as much fun as it was without you guys!!! :-* :-* :-*
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That looks......freaking horny ! :P
About the solderings: well.....problem fixed now but you can check them by CAREFULLY wiggling the parts and looking CLOSELY (use reading glasses or a loupe) at the corresponding solderings on the solder side. You may see some legs moving inside the solder. Dull looking solderings are suspect.
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What can I say?The usual Ully treatment. ;D
Moon Patrol shine like new, great job! ;)
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Beautiful, simply beautiful! :spaceace:
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Stunning!! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Z80 High Score Save Kit :
Saves the top 5 high scores and records your initials and point. Also has Free Play and coin drop while staying in attract mode.
Wow, I didn't pay attention to that! Very interesting! Especially the free while staying in attract mode :)
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Love it :-* :-* :-* :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
Awesome resto Ully 8)
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Very very nice indeed !
that confirms by the way that the coin inserts are good now ;D
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Amazing. Beautiful restoration project.
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:o :o :o
Again a fantastic restoration.
May I officially call you a arcade-mad-man? :lol:
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WOW :o
Now drive that 6 wheels buggy with pride through the moon avenues!
Awesome topic to follow!
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verry nice job you done there :shock:
one of me favorite cabs too ;)
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guys, i need some help / input because i'm having some problems with the marquee lighting fixture. :(
the thing is that it is working, but once i turn off the cab and turn it on later again, it isn't. what i have to do is turn the fluorescent tube by a few millimeters (and sometimes the starter) until the lights come back on. sometimes this takes f-o-r-e-v-e-r to find the right spot. i have already tried it with a different tube, but nothing has changed.
any suggestions?
btw, the ballast is brand new!
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sounds like the problem is in the starter, or in the part where the pins of the tube turns and makes contact
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Replace the starter holder and tube holders. Bad contacts. Cheap parts.
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Just replace the whole light kit, they're only 6.00 usd here at any store like Wal Mart... and they work great with no starters! ;) I hated having to jiggle the bulb or starter.
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got it working! turned out that the replacement starter i tested was also not working properly anymore, so here comes starter #3 and ... voila!!! :spaceace:
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That turned out really nice. Nice work!
Here's mine that I just finished.
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/Moon%20Patrol/IMG_0652.jpg)
(just missing a nice bezel)
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Sweet, Spyri !
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VERY sweet, but my bezel looks much nicer! :P
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VERY sweet, but my bezel looks much nicer! :P
Yes it does. This Old Game is planning on running a repro of it at some point.
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Yes it does. This Old Game is planning on running a repro of it at some point.
the demand for moon patrol bezels is huuuge. fortunately, mine is still in nice condition! :-*
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VERY sweet, but my bezel looks much nicer! :P
Yes it does. This Old Game is planning on running a repro of it at some point.
After Rich has done the SW side-art ! ;)