Happy Birthday, Dirk!
 

i used the dc-wiring like here:

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=Pac.html

it worked well for testing purposes without hacking the board.

everything IS possible...

in the new kits i included the possibility to change the copyright message, there could be a "custom" one as well.
i just need to progam the "edit-custom-message function"

(like in robotron afair)

thanks for all the feedback

i am very happy!

(where's the star field effect by the way?   )

hehehe - a 3d starfield was the first i did, but i couldn't make the "fake 3d" look good.
and forcing the beam from star to star (for only 1 point) is taking a lot of "time"

i was (or am) also thinking about a star-wars scroller

+100 Cool stuff. Which kits are already available, and where? Or did I miss something?

i have pcb's for 2 cpus unitil now...z80 and 6502
until now, kits are available for

gorf
space zap
wizard of wor
eagle
donkey kong
donkey kong jr
donkey kong 3
mario bros.
popeye
scramble
frogger
gyruss
time pilot
Centipede
Asteroids

How can I buy one of your DK kits? Tell me where to send the money!!!!!

We'll contact you ;-)

Great stuff. Did you make some design work in advance on mame?

the programming is completely in mame - usually i change the game-driver source code for my needs (more rom, more ram, serial eeprom)
most of the time the emulation is good enough (no big difference can be seen)
but e.g. on asteroids it was completely different.
i programmed the avg straight away...something like...beam, go to position 100,100...draw a line to 200,200..and so on..
this works on mame..but not on the real thing... because the beam needs some time to go to the position..that is why (on asteroids) they added an "draw a not seen point vector" after the "go to" command that the beam has enough time to go there.

another thing difference is: if you draw a lot of text all around the screen, the beam needs a lot of time to draw it... on mame no flickering can be seen, on the real thing it starts to flicker because the refresh-rate goes down

but i must also admit: without mame - the developing would not be that easy!

Not only is the text scrolling, i see some familiar names passing !
The scrolling text are members here at DLF!

hehehe, these are the greetings - like in the oldschool demos :-)


 

 

atari power supplies usually have a "voltage plug"...

with the right plug it will run on 230v... (on your pic is a voltage plug with yellow cables) that means, according to the schematics 120volts source ...

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Tempest/Tempest_DP-190-2nd-01B.pdf

in the schematics you can see how to "convert" it if you don't have the right plug anymore...

(upper left part)

the yellow plug has for 120 volts...

* a cable from pin 9 to pint 7
* a cable from pin 8 to pin 4 to pin 1
* a cable from pin 6 to pin 3

to transfer it to 240 volts

* remove the cable of pin 4 from the plug and isolate it - pin 8 to 1 should stay...

* remove the pin 6 from the plug and put it into pin 4.

so there will be only a connection from 8 to 1, from 4 to 3 and 9 to 7.


it's a bit tricky to remove the pins..but worth it...

(normally the european atari cabs has all plugs delivered...only the us not...
so if you have an european atari cab, check if there is a brown or a blue plug... (220 or 240 volts)..
then you can use this one.

are the namco schematics similar to the midways?

i want to have a look ;-)

I like the fact that your arcade basement was used for making a music video.