auto transformer

[level42]

As you can see the yellow wires plug is for the 120V so that is probably what you will find installed.

You need to go to the BROWN wires set-up.

This is for 240VAC. This is a bit old-school as one upon a time we had 220VAC on mainland Europe and 240VAC in the UK but this has been "leveled out" to 230VAC on both sides of the North sea. (Wether in reality this has been done I will leave out here).

Anyway, even in main-land Europe it's best to use the 240VAC set-up.

Now if you compare the brown and the yellow set-up, you need to make the following changes:

- pull out pin 4
- remove pin 6 and put that in the position for pin 4

You're done.

You do need to isolate the removed pin 4 though, so put some heat-shrink or other GOOD isolation around it...you do NOT want to make contact with this pin with your hand or any metal around....

Ideally you'd cut of one part of that wire set and remove one "section" of it (cut it off) and then make the bridge directly between pin 1 and 8.

Again, once you completed this do clearly mark the plug that it is for 240VAC because the yellow color of the wires make you (or any future possible owners) confused about it....

Doing this from the info on-line, no guarantees and you're doing this at your own risk of course

[blackie63]

As you can see the yellow wires plug is for the 120V so that is probably what you will find installed.

You need to go to the BROWN wires set-up.

This is for 240VAC. This is a bit old-school as one upon a time we had 220VAC on mainland Europe and 240VAC in the UK but this has been "leveled out" to 230VAC on both sides of the North sea. (Wether in reality this has been done I will leave out here).

Anyway, even in main-land Europe it's best to use the 240VAC set-up.

Now if you compare the brown and the yellow set-up, you need to make the following changes:

- pull out pin 4
- remove pin 6 and put that in the position for pin 4

You're done.

You do need to isolate the removed pin 4 though, so put some heat-shrink or other GOOD isolation around it...you do NOT want to make contact with this pin with your hand or any metal around....

Ideally you'd cut of one part of that wire set and remove one "section" of it (cut it off) and then make the bridge directly between pin 1 and 8.

Again, once you completed this do clearly mark the plug that it is for 240VAC because the yellow color of the wires make you (or any future possible owners) confused about it....

Doing this from the info on-line, no guarantees and you're doing this at your own risk of course

thank you very much for taking the time to put that information together for me ,i have the terrible deadly man flu at the moment  (or a cold you big poofta as my girlfriend says ) will hopefully have time to get machine out and take some photos of power supply and connectors over the weekend 

[blackie63]

able to peer into back of cabs now nearly back to normal 



the bottom of my space duel which has the 120v  yellow connector 

[blackie63]

just out of interest what is the pin out on the connector cant see anything to indicate 1 thanks 

[level42]

Use a small torch light and look closely, pins are all numbered.

[blackie63]

Use a small torch light and look closely, pins are all numbered.

thank you kindly shall look tomorrow 

[blackie63]

As you can see the yellow wires plug is for the 120V so that is probably what you will find installed.

You need to go to the BROWN wires set-up.

This is for 240VAC. This is a bit old-school as one upon a time we had 220VAC on mainland Europe and 240VAC in the UK but this has been "leveled out" to 230VAC on both sides of the North sea. (Wether in reality this has been done I will leave out here).

Anyway, even in main-land Europe it's best to use the 240VAC set-up.

Now if you compare the brown and the yellow set-up, you need to make the following changes:

- pull out pin 4
- remove pin 6 and put that in the position for pin 4

You're done.

You do need to isolate the removed pin 4 though, so put some heat-shrink or other GOOD isolation around it...you do NOT want to make contact with this pin with your hand or any metal around....

Ideally you'd cut of one part of that wire set and remove one "section" of it (cut it off) and then make the bridge directly between pin 1 and 8.

Again, once you completed this do clearly mark the plug that it is for 240VAC because the yellow color of the wires make you (or any future possible owners) confused about it....

Doing this from the info on-line, no guarantees and you're doing this at your own risk of course

its done success  game running fine no problems ,i do have one question as it has no flourescent light in the marquee do i need to change anything in that area ?

[level42]

Great !

- Well three possibilties:
1) tube
2) starter
3) ballast

Or ANY combination of the above......

[blackie63]

need to work out if ballast needs changing or starter or flourescent tube ?


oh the zacarria mvs is a work in progress  

[level42]

I recently had a bad ballast killing a brand new tube....you can measure the ballast.....


Also.....there is a search option on this forum.....doesn't hurt to use it now and then


https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=5359.msg89487#msg89487

[level42]

I guess this is more or less a final step by step process to check fluorescent lighting:

0) check wiring up to marquee area and between parts....check tube sockets and starter socket
1) measure ohms on ballast. If (way) too low, dead ballast, replace. If Ok according to Bob's drawing:
2) replace starter. OK ? good, Not OK ? Go to step 3)
3) replace tube. OK ? Good. Not OK ? Check all sockets again....

[Q*ris]

great and clear step by step troubleshooting guide! 
I've beeen waiting for years for your arcade book to be released, any dates?

[Etienne MacGyver]

Thats actually not a bad idea.

Let everyone who has a specialty on DLF take a subject and lets create the ultimate book !

[blackie63]

I guess this is more or less a final step by step process to check fluorescent lighting:

0) check wiring up to marquee area and between parts....check tube sockets and starter socket
1) measure ohms on ballast. If (way) too low, dead ballast, replace. If Ok according to Bob's drawing:
2) replace starter. OK ? good, Not OK ? Go to step 3)
3) replace tube. OK ? Good. Not OK ? Check all sockets again....

really appreciate all the help from you andre and others here who have helped me out thank you guys