Need help fixing a Canyon Bomber B/W Monitor TEC TM623 (or TM123)

[Q*ris]

Remember Ully's perfectly working Canyon Bomber?

Well long story short: I broke it's monitor neck   I know, I know...
Although Ully took the news like a gentleman I really really feel super bad about it and could bang my head on the wall for hours for being so stupid.

How did it happen? Well, my trailer was too small to carry the cab upright so I had to carry it lying on its back. Of course I double checked if everything was firmly attached before moving the cab. Little did I knew that the monitor chassis itself was too weak to support the wheight of the monitor in this horizontal position...
The whole chassis bended and of course the neck of the monitor touched the backdoor and got seriously damaged.

Lesson learned, try to carry your cabs in a vertical position as much as possible, because those old giants don't like to rest on their back, hence the name "upright"...

I will now of course do whatever I can to fix this BIG mistake.

Etienne has already suggested that a really precise soldering might fix the problem,...that would be a great solution!
Other ideas I had: finding the exact same broken part... but is this something you can just swap?
If so, in my tournament table, I have a working TEC TM600 (it's the same monitor but in it's 19'' version), I'm of course OK to give the non broken piece to Ully but can it even be removed, and will it work on his monitor?
Questions,questions,... need you help here guys, my electronic knowledge is definitely too limited to tackle this problem alone.

Here are some pictures of the damages and the monitor's manual.

It's a B/W Monitor TEC TM623 (sometimes called TM123 by Atari) and it's used in Atari cabs from that period (circa 1977).









 

[Etienne MacGyver]

I can only repeat what i already PM-ed you, so ..

I would try to solder the pins back on, or wires straight to the broken point where they enter the neck.

it looks like the glass is still in one piece so a good change you can fix it..
you do need some soldering skills though...

[PaulSwan]

Dude, you have my deepest sympathies.

The tube still has vacuum it's worth a shot to see if it still works. One issue to bear in mind with soldering, though, is that the neck pins are metal sealed in glass. They were not intended to be soldered and the heat may crack the glass (the metal will expand, the glass won't).

If it were me, I'd be looking for a mechanical solution, something like a spring loaded pin that could make contact with the neck pins. If you can find a replacement neck socket, you could fit the spring loaded pins into the socked and clamp it on the neck. I had an idea that the type of pin that might work for this are the ones that they use to hold watch straps in place - it's about the same size as a neck pin (but a bit longer) with spring loaded points on each side.

Let me know if I'm not making any sense and I'll try and draw a picture.

Paul.

[Etienne MacGyver]

Sounds very good paul!

[Q*ris]

Thanks a lot for your input!
Would that "pogo pin" thing do the trick?

[PaulSwan]

It's an idea

[Etienne MacGyver]

I have good hopes boys and girls  







Will "cast" it in hot silicon glue to enforce it (no, not that cheap DIY store crap, but 3M profi shizzle)

Then create a new connector on the wires that can go in the old neck connector, and fix the metal mounts (whiche caused all this trouble in the first place, it was not bended, but the supports where spot welded and brake loose.. )

Pictures and explanations about that later.

I hope this works...., i do have a good feeling about it though  

[level42]

 

Well, it's pretty clear who went to bed early last night.....

 

[Etienne MacGyver]

I think its better to state "who did not drink alcohol last night"  

ps sorry for the "blurry" detail shots, i needed to use my wife's snappy cam 

[Superully]

"day of the tentactle"

looks very promising, etienne, thx so much for the efforts so far ...

[level42]

I think its better to state "who did not drink alcohol last night"  

ps sorry for the "blurry" detail shots, i needed to use my wife's snappy cam 

I actually barely drank any alcohol last night because I still had to drive.

[Etienne MacGyver]

I was reffering to Pieter 

It did require a very steady hand, and some serious cleaning before i could even reach the metal.

The metal was pretty deep inside, but i think i got it covered.
I hope it works, and then is the question how long it will survive..

It also looks i can apply power to it, it has a isolation transformer and 110 - 220 volt selector on the frame 

[Q*ris]

I owe you many more than one for this rescue!!!!!
So much work because of me... 
Many many thanks for helping, Etienne, fingers and soldering irons crossed for the next test!

[level42]

If you have your old C64 or any other source wit composte video you actually test it.

What is the plan ? I am not to sure if I would use silicon glue. Why not get something harder like a 2 component resin (kunsthars) ? That way you can leave the wires as short as possible, redusing risks, and put a new connector on it (if avalable and possible)......but maybe I am just dreaming....

[Etienne MacGyver]

Whatever it takes to secure the soldered part, i may even build a lioncage around it  
no seriously, I do have some clamps around here (the same as the ones on the neck already) so i'll figure something out.

The silicon glue i am talking about is not diy store crap, its as hard and resistence as some other resin (and i have that at hand also  )



i did already find out that the original pins have the same diameter as the nails that i have in my shed.
together with some casting and the broken leftover piece that came from the neck will be a nice new connector.
Just wait and see  , you guy's are dealing with the only real macgyver on this board uh  .



About the composite source, i do have those direct to tv games here, they are composite out, so that might actually work.

Never tried something like that..

The problem is though, which pin is the composite input pin ?

I did not look good yet, but i see this connector on the chassis: