From Truxton II (to) Pleiads

[Superully]

now that i'm always done with re-wiring the cab, is there any way to test it before "going online", eg. measuring, plugging in only parts of the whole system, ...?

i don't want to destroy the board or get a life-threatening electrical shock 

so if there's something for me to do, please let me know ASAP!!!

[petieken]

so i will connect one blue wire to the control panel connector (which is GND) and the other one with the black wire from the microswitches

  as for the turquoise wire and the coin door: it is a simple midway coindoor without anything special to it, no electronics, no nothing - just two microswitches screwed under the coin slots. i guess a picture wouldn't help anything.

Yes, you have to connect the blue wire from the pcb (B) to control panel GND and to the Black coin switch wire (also GND)

You can leave out the turquoise wire, it won't harm anything. If something isn't working because of that wire, it can be solved later on. My only guess it was for a coin meter originally.

[Superully]

ok guys - THIS IS IT

after a long (and twilight) struggle with wires, GND, voltages, molex pins and molex connectors PLUS a lot of help from this board, i simply can't resist any longer. time to test what i've spent countless hours with. this is do or die, the breaking point - either this is going to work or i'll have to look for a new hobby 

let's "install" the original centuri pleiads board in the cabinet:



let's plug in all the molex connectors - doesn't this look as if someone knew what he was doing? 



ok, everything's set and done - the stage is yours

*drumroll*

*plugging in the power chord

*drumroll getting louder*

*turning on the power switch*

*drumroll sounding like thunder*

*waiting anxiously for something to happen*





YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSS

i can't believe it, it's working!!! all the buttons, the microswitches, the sound, the graphics, the neon light - EVERYTHING!!! i'm thrilled, ...

however, ... 

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there is a problem:

when it's player 2's turn to play the game, the picture is being turned upside down - as if two players were playing at a cocktail table facing each other. is there a way to change this so that the second player doesn't have to stand on his head while playing???

could it be that the little white wire on the board which "fell off" was there to stop the picture from "going 180 on me"?

[petieken]

According to this dip switch manual you have to flip switch 8

http://www.crazykong.com/dips/Pleiads.txt

Glad you finally have the game up and running!

[vib_ribbon]

yep. simple dip switch setting.

but......


F**K YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WELL happen for you.

GAME On!!!

[Orrimarrko]

Nerves of steel man!

I wouldn't even attempt all of that wiring - bravo!!

Can't wait to see the finished product.

[Superully]

after all this (boring?) wiring stuff i'm going back to the "cosmetic operations" - time to finish this (although there's still a lot to do).

remember? the painting job wasn't finished. time to apply WHITE 



the result doesn't look perfect (rough edges and lines), but after some manual touching up, i'm happy. gone are (almost) all those cracks, holes and screws - the cabinet looks "fresh" again!

[Superully]

houston, we have a problem!!!  the metal control panel that i have painstakingly cut and repainted is TOO BIG. not in width, but in depth - i won't be able to attach the 1-player-select-button and its wiring because its too close to the wood (and i can't cut an opening into it). DAMN - what a mistake! i had never thought of that.

but don't worry, there's always a solution in sight. this time, the solution is called "building a completely new control panel"  here we go ...

first of all, three wooden boards, two of those make the upper part where the buttons will be located.



then, i'm using my router to round off the front. looks good, doesn't it?



after some careful testing of the position of the buttons (don't want to screw this control panel up AGAIN), it's hole-drilling-time 



i didn't take any pictures of all the drilling and routing that followed. so, ladies and gentlemen, without further adue, my new control panel in a rough, unpainted state 



from behind 

[vib_ribbon]

look at the back of those crazy arse buttons!! 

[slowcade]

I just want to say CONGRATULATIONS! 

[Superully]

I just want to say CONGRATULATIONS! 

thx, still can't believe that it's working. hopefully it will also pass the durability test once everything's set and done 

[Superully]

another "pleiads package" has arrived 



this is the original molding (without the T) which was used on the pleiads cabs. so great that i found that over at t-molding.com



let's see how this is going to look on the cabinet ...



PERFECT, FANTASTIC, AMAZING!!! what difference such a simple piece of black plastics makes!



@bruno: i still have a couple of centimeters left. wanna have it to replace your interim solution - this really is the same as the original? if so, how many centimeters would you need?

[DarthNuno]

AWESOME  You did it right   



Wow... this is EXACTLY what I need to 



I'll check how many CM I need 

Amazing job so far, congratulation. 

[Superully]

after my joust 2 roadtrip (and another one for an empty taito cab which will serve as the new home for a dedicated bubble bobble machine) it's (about) time to finish my pleiads project.

the following tube arrived today from england



fresh from the printer: the control panel overlay and the missing front art (once again a big THANX to bruno for scanning this). the quality of both items is fabulous!!!





i can't wait, i have to put the front art on my newly-cut cabinet front. NOTE: these are NOT my hands 



after cutting out the space for the coin door and installing the latter, the new front is being "installed" into the cabinet. i'm more than pleased!!! 


next thing to do: assemble the control panel and attach the control panel overlay. stay tuned ... 

[Superully]

as promised, on with the control panel.

here's my newly-constructed wooden control panel after being painted and assembled in its "raw" form 



and here's the final version of my edited control panel overlay. note that i have included both the irecsa and the centuri logo in the design because my cabinet is a combination of those two.



time to apply the freshly-printed control panel overlay onto the wooden panel. once again, these are not my hands 



cutting out the holes for the buttons 



PERFECT!!!



can't wait, i have to install the buttons ...



in order to attach the control panel to the front plate, i'm mounting a metal joint to the control panel first



still missing: the wiring harness! but not for much longer 



finally, the beautiful control panel on location!!!



i'm thrilled, this is coming to a close. still waiting for my plastic monitor bezel which i got off ebay.co.uk (should arrive shortly) - then i'll be able to insert the glass monitor bezel.

stay tuned for more pleiads craziness