Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: Superully on February 11, 2009, 03:16:37 PM
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(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/news/pleiads-ully.jpg)
Well then, here we go, operation “pleaids – back to life” is about to begin …
Following this ebay-auction …
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3419/3271362587_7d074bc4e8_b.jpg)
... a good friend of mine (named Alex) and myself (named Ully) set off from a little town in Southern Germany to one of the Southernmost cities of our country called Konstanz to bring back the beauty that is
PLEIADS (with Truxton II inside and a horrible control panel)
A roadtrip of almost 300 km (one-way), but who cares? ;)
To make things worthwhile and to do something for our eduction (even teachers have to educate themselves), we decided to make a small detour of roughly 50 km across the German border and into Switzerland to pay a visit to the widest plain European waterfalls - the Rhinefalls. What a beauty and what a natural wonder, even in winter!
getting some information first:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3340/3271384497_906c16538e_o.jpg)
don't fall into the rhinefalls, alex ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3337/3271384345_b0a541e9c6_o.jpg)
impressive, aren't they?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3332/3271384663_98511e7255_o.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3322/3271384051_18988a1e61_o.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3396/3271384217_13c6f9104f_o.jpg)
enough time "wasted", let's continue with our primary task ...
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Having finally arrived at the seller's garage, we were wondering where the pleiads cabinet was ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3312/3272240492_47efb14a02_o.jpg)
found it!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3310/3271432857_aeca89a52f.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3305/3272241930_4c780ed853.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3309/3272241032_9633a9b3ba.jpg)
let's play a game of TRUXTON II first - as long as it's still in the cab (and of course to see if everything's working properly)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3450/3272241108_e87b6c39f2_o.jpg)
man, will this fit into my car? we'll see ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3319/3272241716_88c22a60b7.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3475/3272241414_219871b6e7.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3535/3271686573_cea6fd5a53.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3340/3272240906_778f78d1f7.jpg)
DAMN - TOO BIG!!! :evil:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3508/3272240690_e01910ce1f_o.jpg)
In order to fit into the car nicely (and to be able to close the back door), we have to "throw out" some stuff (like seats and petrol can)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3455/3272241550_338a55400d.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3488/3271420377_6108716d9a.jpg)
DONE!!! :) (have a look at the superfluous items on the ground)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3522/3271419941_d7ec71a8e3_o.jpg)
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Huh? ???
:lol:
i guess we have to be patient and just admire the scenery for now!
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The next day! After carrying the heavy cabinet 60 steps in a narrow, winding stairway upwards (with the bonus of a pinched nerve in my back afterwards), the cabinet now rests comfortably in my workroom, ready to begin the transformation back to its original glory.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3381/3271485815_ff126cba87_b.jpg)
Let's take a closer look ... the t-molding is either missing or has been replaced by non-original new one. Also missing is the glass bezel (which I hopefully will get from Bruno). The artwork on the sides is in great condition (besides some sticker residue and screws drilled through the artwork)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3458/3271486225_fb6daa5da7.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3409/3271485657_905940befe.jpg)
The front art is missing, but Bruno kindly offered me to take a picture of his pleiads front art, so that I can have a reproduction done at a later time. There are A LOT OF screws and nails inside that cab (like in the coin door for example) that originally didn't belong there - they will have to go :spaceace:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3497/3271484775_b6c2ff8ae4.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3520/3271485381_8d9697a8e4.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3420/3271485475_f6e04857b6.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3506/3272305754_a4071b5335.jpg)
The horrible control panel. This will also be a "goner" and be replaced by an original one (already on its way from the States)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3305/3272306084_163a80ca0e_b.jpg)
Some damages to the cabinet wood itself, but nothing that I won't (be able to) fix ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3353/3272306946_a4936013ed.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3412/3271486327_55086baf0c.jpg)
And finally, let's have a sneak peek inside. Looks tidy and clean, but TRUXTON II has to go eventually!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3463/3272307532_ee0ccf181e.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3495/3271485047_9c068d8808.jpg)
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YYYYYYYYESSS !!!! You got it Superully :o :)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
This is a rare cabinet! Except mine, I've never seen pictures of this Spanish cabinet version of the game anywhere :shock: :) Congratulation :)
OK, there is a lot of work to do, but nothing impossible... Of course, I'll help you on this project!
I'm gonna publish the pictures you're looking for soon ;)
Thanks for the road trip pictures :-*
PPPPPLLLLLLLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEIIIIIIIIIIIIAAAAAAAADDDDDDDDDDDDDDDSSSSSSSSSSSSSS Rulez !!! :)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Best of luck & fun on your Pleiads Project!!! :D
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*** Emergency Room mode ON ***
Nurse: "Doctor, let's start the operation, will we?"
Doctor: "There seems to be some kind of "cancer" growing on the cab which wasn't part of the original condition."
Nurse: "What shall we do with it?"
Doctor: "CUT IT OUT, OF COURSE!!!"
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3333/3271572195_1edb7b7670.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3106/3272373844_04c0637269.jpg)
Doctor: "The operation was a success, the tumor has been completely removed!"
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3465/3272374432_deef1bb8c5_b.jpg)
*** Emergency Room mode OFF ***
Speaking of removal, I've also removed all the screws, nails and bolts which were put into the cabinet unnecessarily and for modification purposes only. Damn, that's a lot of metal!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3328/3272411218_c1756b7085_b.jpg)
I was then able to remove the damaged front. Unfortunately, because of all those screws, nails and bolts, a part of the wood has broken off - but some glue will do the trick!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3408/3272373206_34a82c3d13.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3316/3272373436_03d7c37707.jpg)
Here are all the "metal-damaged" parts from the cabinet's front lined up. I will replace all of them!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3357/3272373318_b284cedcde.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3524/3271552979_d672a075d4.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3513/3272373742_7f44b5a919.jpg)
To do so, a visit to the home depot is required:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/3271639663_04c675585b_b.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3312/3272460368_d308854dbe_b.jpg)
Mission accomplished!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3501/3271638981_7db9ea4af4_b.jpg)
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thx a lot for the headline on your homepage, bruno. the picture collage looks great!!!
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Better keep that Truxton II PCB...great game and quite rare ;)
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Woow Superully ... Great cab and beautiful place for a roadtrip (I love those waterfalls :-* :-*)
this is another great project to be followed carefully :spaceace: :spaceace:
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bruno, could you please check whether there is a bezel (plastic or cardboard) behind your glass bezel around the monitor and IF SO, take pictures of it? My cab came WITHOUT a bezel - and when you take a look at the following pictures there seems to be something missing! thx in advance.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3495/3272679122_229a28cc65.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3529/3271858807_719af39d76.jpg)
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There is a black plastic bezel on the monitor. It's a standard one, like you can find for any 19" monitor. And, of course you've got the glass bezel, that includes the bezel artwork. You're VERY lucky that I own a *spare* one by the way... and it'll be for you of course ;) :-* :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/pleiads_old_picture2.jpg)
But not in perfect shape as you can see...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/pleiads_old_picture3.jpg)
It's an 'artwork back printed' bezel :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/pleiads_old_picture4.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/pleiads_old_picture5.jpg)
Here's an old picture, without the glass & plastic bezel :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/pleiads_old_picture1.jpg)
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great bruno, thx a lot. don't worry about the glass damages to the glass bezel. i've found a way to repair cracks like that :) watch this space ...
as for the plastic monitor bezel: any idea where i can get one over here in europe?
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Here's a shop in France : Starcab.net (http://www.starcab.net/product_info.php?cPath=77_160&products_id=481&osCsid=f67e882670073202f2c39e42a2d6daae).
But it's a common item, I'm sure you can find one in Germany without any problem.
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Cool roadtrip! I shall watch the restoration with interest ;D
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The horrible control panel. This will also be a "goner" and be replaced by an original one (already on its way from the States)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3305/3272306084_163a80ca0e_b.jpg)
Do you will use an US panel version on that cab? Does the size is the same? Only the metal panel I presume (and use the Spanish repro overlay), or also a US CPO?
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bruno, i haven't been able to get a repro of the us version, but in a way that's good, because the design of the american version would not fit your european glass bezel. however, i intend on using a centuri pcb (which features the warp button), therefore i've ordered a rough phoenix control panel from the states (which cleared german customs 3 days ago, so it should arrive here shortly). hopefully this panel will fit into the european pleiads cab somehow - keep your fingers crossed. if that's the case, i will edit the european control panel overlay to include the warp button, have it printed and put it on the phoenix control panel. sounds good?
however, all this will only work IF the panel fits. i will find out as soon as the panel arrives ...
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look what the cat dragged in today!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3466/3276570262_fb31a69d16.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3393/3276570058_aa548af3c8.jpg)
a first peek inside ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3519/3276570718_8e84bc01f5_b.jpg)
freed from its "bubbly boxy grave", here's the rough, american, original phoenix panel which i'm planning on using as a backdrop for the (edited) european control panel overlay version.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3510/3276570484_af98535937_b.jpg)
here we go, this is it. let's compare sizes ... DAMN, TOO BIG! I had expected something like that. But "too big" is better than "too small". Fortunately, I know someone who will be able to fix the "size problem". We will return to this later on ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3325/3275750445_07d315d054_b.jpg)
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Maybe It would be more easy to build *from scratch* a new control panel with the correct sizes?
But it's good new that you I know someone who will be able to fix that one :)
The original US artwork is beautiful :-*
Thanks for the pictures :)
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i think it will be easier to "shrink" the existing control panel. all the holes are there, so are all the wires.
but i completely agree with you: the phoenix artwork is amazing. however, it is damaged and the control panel is full of rust (you will be able to see this in the upcoming pictures), which means i would have had to replace the old overlay by a new one anyway. i really hope this will work out the way i've imagined ...
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bruno, could you add the following to your "things-to-do-for-superully-list", please?
- take a picture of your black plastic monitor bezel and take its measurements (internal and external). unfortunately it's not that easy to get one from someone else ...
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bruno, could you add the following to your "things-to-do-for-superully-list", please?
- take a picture of your black plastic monitor bezel and take its measurements (internal and external). unfortunately it's not that easy to get one from someone else ...
No problem my friend :-*
Because I'll have to remove the control panel, bezel,... for taking new pictures for you, can you list me all the measures you need and if possible show me via pictures, for example like Screen did for his fabulous Pac Man (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=536.0) cab...
(http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1380/3altezzaeprofonditard5.jpg)
...what you're looking for precisely? ;)
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bruno, here's the updated "things-to-do-for-superully"-list :oops:
- safely wrap up the glass bezel and send it over to germany (keyword: bubble bubble bubble bubble blubble ...)
- measure the size of the front art as shown in the following picture:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3430/3281843864_895558f082_o.jpg)
- take a high-quality picture of your pleaids front art so that it is possible to vectorize it (be careful to use a straight angle without any reflections)
- describe / take photos of the way your kick plate is attached to the cabinet (as you can see in this thread, mine had a lot of screws and nails ;))
- take a picture of your plastic monitor bezel and measure its internal and external dimensions. does yours look like the one in the following picture?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3518/3281049063_56ed6f7dde_o.jpg)
i think that's it for now, i'm sorry to bother you that much. hope you'll find the time to help me out! thx, greatly appreciated :)
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the restoration process continues ...
i've decided to deal with the control panel first, so i disassembled it to clean up its parts and the panel itself. here's the result after disassembly:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3520/3276570362_ecfcfd9c62_b.jpg)
first step, clean the dirty leaf buttons and the rusty screws / springs
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3434/3275750733_5f662bda59.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3545/3280692085_80f5031c90.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3241/3280691721_2fafb70c1d.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3484/3275750955_f1535aeaee.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3185/3280691887_b23337e20d.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3508/3281512686_322b14fcd0.jpg)
result: the dirt has gone, but there's nothing one can do against the yellow spots on the white buttons. after 25 years in an arcade, this is the way buttons look like, even after hardcore-cleanup. right now i have a tendency towards replacing the old buttons with new ones to fit the colours of the control panel. more about that later when it comes to the control panel overlay itself. what do YOU think? keep the original phoenix buttons or exchange them for new ones? i know, i know, they are original, but i will get a completely new control panel overlay, so wouldn't it also be logical to get new leaf buttons? hmm, still thinking hard about that!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3384/3281515044_f2f4d3ac1a_b.jpg)
after the control panel parts had been cleaned, i turned to the panel. as i've said earlier, all i need is the metal plate, that's why the beautiful phoenix artwork has to go. it really hurts to remove it, but it IS damaged, the panel IS rusty, so get over it and do the job you came for :twisted:
i'm using a tool normally used to scrape old wallpaper off the walls. it works perfectly on the control panel, too. aaaaargh, i hate to do this to the phoenix artwork :'(
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3281513386_8ce90a4114.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3390/3280692391_8e058ea847.jpg)
DONE!!! did i say rusty? i meant: RUSTY!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3113/3280692857_2e630c923e_b.jpg)
for sale: used phoenix control panel overlay. has some minor damages, i would rate its overall condition as AVERAGE. buy-it-now-price: €50 8)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3592/3281514426_ba7d6b6a26_b.jpg)
because the metal panel is too big to put it into a rust remover bath, i'm applying the fluid with a brush. always wear gloves when you're doing this, you won't get the smell off your hands otherwise ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/3280693105_e46a7d4aff_b.jpg)
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as you should know by now, i'm planning on using an american pleaids board (which features an additional warp button). therefore - and because of the fact that the former phoenix metal panel is larger than the european version - i have to edit the design / layout of the control panel overlay to include the warp button.
after many hours in EDITING HELL :twisted: my floor looks like this:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3488/3281514676_502afaa41e_b.jpg)
i've tried to stay as close to the original as possible while adding the warp button. i've included all the elements from the original version (although some had to be shrunk / mirrored / enlarged / (re)moved). and finally i've changed the language to english, because this is the version which is going to be played later on.
for my part, i can't wait to see this printed and i'm quite happy with the results, but you can judge for yourself. what do you think of "my" version? would you change something?
bruno's version:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3508/3282004366_529b758cf7_b.jpg)
superully's version:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3015/3282003948_1771814722_b.jpg)
speaking of having this printed: bruno, when i take a closer look at your control panel overlay file, i realize that there is some kind of crosshair (see the following picture) in every corner and that there is a white border around the picture itself. what is the function of that crosshair? is it necessary to include that for the printing process? do i have to add a white border around my edited overlay, too? i've never had a control panel overlay printed before, that's why i'm asking. if not bruno, perhaps someone else knows the answers to this ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3642/3282049138_e5745579c6_o.jpg)
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speaking of having this printed: bruno, when i take a closer look at your control panel overlay file, i realize that there is some kind of crosshair (see the following picture) in every corner and that there is a white border around the picture itself. what is the function of that crosshair? is it necessary to include that for the printing process? do i have to add a white border around my edited overlay, too? i've never had a control panel overlay printed before, that's why i'm asking. if not bruno, perhaps someone else knows the answers to this ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3642/3282049138_e5745579c6_o.jpg)
Once the reproduction overlay printed, these lines are done in order to know where to cut precisely. Maybe it would be useful for something else?
According the guy who printed it for me, it's better to have -in that case- more to print... more is better than less... that's the reason why the black border is bigger than the original one... and the cross hair are there to show the real size and where to cut... More is better than less ;)
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New stuff for you :D
I'll use this tripod in order to fix my camera. I've tried to put it just in the middle of the artwork :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/kick1.jpg)
Here's the result with flash on :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/kick-flash-small.jpg) (http://www.arcadelifestyle.net/pleiads/4ully/kick-flash.jpg)
[click on picture for full size picture]
As you can see, the flash hides some parts :-\ Here's an other version, without the flash :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/kick-noflash-small.jpg) (http://www.arcadelifestyle.net/pleiads/4ully/kick-noflash.jpg)
[click on picture for full size picture]
Here's the size of the kickplate artwork :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/kick2.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/kick3.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/kick4.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/kick5.jpg)
For the colors matching, you can use the ones on your side arts... colors are the same ;)
Hope it can help :-*
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bruno, thx a lot for your efforts, somehow i'm a big fan of your "ruler pictures" ;)
now to the other pictures: i'm not that much of a graphics expert, therefore i think you're pictures might just not be suitable enough for me and my minimal skills regarding editing. for example the city on the lower left seems to be distorted. of course that's because of the focal length of your digital camera which does not match the human eye (i guess your camera was too close to the kick plate, too). the pictures you've taken without the tripod seem to be better in colour and lighting.
would it be asked too much to bring some lights into your gameroom (during daytime?) and photograph the front art in seperate parts (without flash)? we wouldn't have the distortion problem then, I could stitch the pictures together manually AND the completed picture would be of a higher resolution. have a look at this picture to understand what i mean (it's just an example):
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3648/3281619495_130a065d2b.jpg)
i know, i know, i'm really asking much of you, but i'm putting so much effort into this machine and i want it to be as perfect as possible. how perfect would it be without a nice kickplate artwork?
one thing just came to my mind: don't you have an a3 scanner? how about scanning the artwork? this would result in the best quality possible ...
thx a lot, bruno, you will get my marble madness marquee for free ;)
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Ooops, I won't be able to use my A3 scanner for that :oops: :arrow:
This one can is only able to scan items who are directly in contact with the glass. If the thing to scan is not in contact with the glass of the scanner, the result is very blurry :-[
I didn't have that problem with my previous AGFA A4 scanner, but I don't use it anymore since I have the A3 :oops:
Using more light will be difficult. I don't have white spots or other sources of light for that.
Daylight would be an issue, but I would have to put the cab outside... :-\
Not easy as you can see...
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Where did you buy that ruler Bruno? In France? I think in France rulers with inches on one side are illegal and manufactures are put up for dead penalty I think. In the Netherlands all DIY stores are selling mm/inch combined rulers, which always have the mm side on the wrong side if you want to measure anything.
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Not easy as you can see...
i know that it' not easy, and i also know that i ask A LOT of you. if you wouldn't live that far away, i'd come by and take the pictures myself (i have a VERY GOOD camera with nice lenses), but that's not an option right now. perhaps you'll find the time to take another set of pictures, it doesn't have to be 9, 4 to 6 would suffice i guess. what is important is the fact that the picture is not distorted and that there is no flash reflection, so pictures without flash would be perfect. they can be lightened up afterwards (although they shouldn't be too dark). thank you very much, bruno!!!
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Regarding the bezel, I've done the first step...before shipping :) :arrow:
Because it's a glass bezel, it has to be very well protected :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel1.jpg)
A first piece of heavy cardboard under...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel2.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel3.jpg)
...and an other one :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel4.jpg)
Now, let's roll the 'thing' inside bubble wrap ... few layers of course :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel5.jpg)
Ok, now I've to find a big cardboard box for putting the 'package' inside ;)
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you're a genius. packing the marble madness marquee in return will be a piece of cake :oops:
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some minor progress:
just got the control panel back from the "incredible shrinking service" - SIZE DOES MATTER!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3508/3289935285_13e659fccb_b.jpg)
now it's finally time to clean this thing down to its bone, here's what i'm going to use:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3541/3290753042_0de1fb8d2b_b.jpg)
after the cleaning process two layers of anti-rust primer ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3496/3290753380_b4470fb4a5.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3534/3289935651_9d8193698f.jpg)
... then some more layers of matte black. finished! looks great compared to the way it looked before, doesn't it?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3113/3280692857_2e630c923e.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3421/3289934879_12bd14a2c6.jpg)
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It looks *brand* new, congratulation 8) :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3421/3289934879_12bd14a2c6.jpg)
You're doing this restoration very fast :o Impressive 8)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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You're doing this restoration very fast :o Impressive 8)
don't worry, there will come a time when things will be progressing at a much slower pace. ;)
today i started with the wood renovations. i've never done something like this before - and let me tell you this: it's not easy to get this woodfiller stuff into the desired shape! i'm sure you know what i'm talking about, right?
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WOODWORK TIME
first step: glueing the broken off piece of wood back on :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3316/3272373436_03d7c37707.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3420/3299886940_11ae27cc15.jpg)
second step: preparing the items needed for the wood reconstruction :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3539/3299058325_e2418bdb64.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3587/3299887882_75f772ea16.jpg)
third step: applying the woodfiller :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3523/3299886086_14bea0eeb2.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3559/3299887750_276b34ba71.jpg)
fourth step: waiting for the woodfiller to dry :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3641/3299058507_fd508b5dd0.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/3299887042_c3d74c2c84.jpg)
fifth step: sanding :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3453/3299058719_c7ccbe4478_b.jpg)
sixth step: being happy with the before and after results :) :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3416/3299058623_61030168dd.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3299886326_f8fa5b5cd1.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3581/3299887996_4782c6532e.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3523/3299886186_a684e05331.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3553/3299887308_604c9605f6.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3546/3299057721_0aef139cb1.jpg)
next step: REPAINTING THE BLUE PART OF THE CABINET :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3424/3299057835_dbed9453f3.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3311/3299057937_99c6a37322.jpg)
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PREPARATIONS FOR THE PAINTING JOB
in order to find the right kind of BLUE, i need to have that colour scanned professionally. however, i'm not planning on carrying the whole cabinet to the "colour shop" (i'm still impressed by your ms. pac-man action, bruno :lol: ), so i'm looking for a sample from the cabinet to take along for the ride ...
removing the coin box might do the trick. look what i found ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3342/3271553373_c1d7b4d7a7.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3357/3272374152_62ebcb677a.jpg)
some hits with a soft hammer :twisted: and i've got the sample i need!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3459/3272372682_ebe43aa0a7_b.jpg)
THIS i can carry to the paint shop easily - no sack barrow required for that ;D
scanning, mixing, shaking :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/3299947192_7638674d2d.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3385/3299947402_ec6b2ac718.jpg)
here we go, the right kind of BLUE is ready. now the cabinet will get a new coat!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3408/3299948746_119167263d_b.jpg)
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Not easy as you can see...
i know that it' not easy, and i also know that i ask A LOT of you. if you wouldn't live that far away, i'd come by and take the pictures myself (i have a VERY GOOD camera with nice lenses), but that's not an option right now. perhaps you'll find the time to take another set of pictures, it doesn't have to be 9, 4 to 6 would suffice i guess. what is important is the fact that the picture is not distorted and that there is no flash reflection, so pictures without flash would be perfect. they can be lightened up afterwards (although they shouldn't be too dark). thank you very much, bruno!!!
I've done the JOB my friend ;)
I've created a dedicated topic for that artwork reproduction, because it's an entire job. So please continue right here ;) :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/news/pleiads-scandone.jpg) (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=651.0)
8)
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sixth step: being happy with the before and after results :) :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3416/3299058623_61030168dd.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3299886326_f8fa5b5cd1.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3581/3299887996_4782c6532e.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3523/3299886186_a684e05331.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3553/3299887308_604c9605f6.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3546/3299057721_0aef139cb1.jpg)
next step: REPAINTING THE BLUE PART OF THE CABINET :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3424/3299057835_dbed9453f3.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3311/3299057937_99c6a37322.jpg)
Very good job on this, congratulation ;) Before/after pictures are still the best one 8)
At the paint shop :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/3299947192_7638674d2d.jpg)
Did you explain to the seller what is your goal? Still funny to see how people reacts about all our crazy stories... of course, It's more fun when you bring the entire cabinet ;D
After your paint session, I would be up for a very small amount of this *Pleiads Custom*blue paint ::) :P :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3408/3299948746_119167263d_b.jpg)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Regarding the bezel, I've done the first step...before shipping :) :arrow:
Because it's a glass bezel, it has to be very well protected :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel1.jpg)
A first piece of heavy cardboard under...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel2.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel3.jpg)
...and an other one :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel4.jpg)
Now, let's roll the 'thing' inside bubble wrap ... few layers of course :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/packing-pleiads-bezel5.jpg)
Ok, now I've to find a big cardboard box for putting the 'package' inside ;)
Part II : Let's find the right box...
I'll sacrifice my A3 Scanner box :'( :D :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/pleiads-bezel-box1.jpg)
Newspapers, more bubbles wrap...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/pleiads-bezel-box2.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/pleiads-bezel-box3.jpg)
Ready to go 8) :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/pleiads-bezel-box4.jpg)
Send me via private message you full address, and I'll call tomorrow DHL to estimate the shipping price to germany for this 69 x 62 x 18cm / 7 kg box ;)
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DHL upped their rates in the last few months with regards to their volume weight conversion. it used to be length x width x height / 6000. now it's / 5000 if it's international. but shouldn't be too bad cos it's only going to germany.
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thx so much, bruno! i wonder how much THAT is going to cost ... :shock: perhaps it will be cheaper to drive 800 km to pick it up :lol:
i will send you part of the blue colour along with the marble madness marquee. more details in the PM / email you're going to receive in a couple of minutes!
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That's packed a little bit better than my PCB was :lol: :lol: :lol:
Good job! Should arrive safely.
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if it wouldn't cost 50 euros to send :'(
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before i start re-painting the BLUE part of the cabinet, i'm going to put some wheels underneath in order to make that "wooden giant" moveable.
four wheels - each supporting up to 50 kg - that should do the trick!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3451/3307965803_c2be75ae52.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3490/3308795602_83255cc380.jpg)
well then, let's get started. here's what i will be using today:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3318/3307965489_807c602398_b.jpg)
before starting the actual painting process, i'm appyling some base (it comes in powder form, but has to be dissolved in water). with the help of a sponge (have you noticed my "arcade sponge" marked with a big A? :lol:), i'm distributing the liquid equally across the cabinet. the function of this base is to prepare the cabinet's blue surface for the painting job (making it handy and non-slippery).
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3435/3307965587_be7ec69edf.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3664/3308795818_c5d1ac4cb7.jpg)
after leaving it on for 10 to 15 minutes, you can wash the liquid off with clear water. the cabinet's surface is now well-prepared. TIME TO PAINT!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3423/3308795742_d37edcc89b_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3633/3308795350_f80bf59963_b.jpg)
the remains of a day ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3488/3308796132_a7c4fd411d_b.jpg)
now on to the part which i hate the most: WAITING
.
..
...
after two days in "dry storage" the paint has dried almost completely and the results are in:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/3308795912_2632270ea3_b.jpg)
looking at it closely, one can see the spots where i reconstructed the wood with the woodfiller (and somehow a cat's hair managed to squeeze itself into the room and onto the cabinet), but overall i'm extremely happy with the results and the way this turned out. there are - of course - some minor imperfections, however, one must keep in mind, that these are only the sides of the cabinet and - after all - this was done by an amateur with amateurish methods / resources. what do you think?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3559/3308795974_57fa439921.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3450/3308796228_ea040ea7f7.jpg)
@bruno: look what i've just found ::) this will be mailed to you (along with the marble madness marquee) pretty soon :spaceace:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3423/3308796286_863c14a5e4_b.jpg)
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I think it looks great!!!! ;D
Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get it "out of the crate new" Even games new out of the crate have "imperfections"
All that matters is that YOU are happy with it!! :D
Personal note, I've had my bouts with perfection, repainting over and over... trying to keep hair and little bubbles out... They were almost going to have to call the looney wagon on me! LOL
One thing that makes painting easier, using Latex Enamel, it dries without brush lines. ;)
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Same as Barry :arrow:
I think it looks great!!!! ;D
Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get it "out of the crate new" Even games new out of the crate have "imperfections"
All that matters is that YOU are happy with it!! :D
Nobody will notice such MINOR imperfections :
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3450/3308796228_ea040ea7f7.jpg)
You're doing a very good job on this restoration Ully :spaceace:
Hey ::) :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3423/3308796286_863c14a5e4_b.jpg)
...thanks for that blue paint sample :P :-*
I won't need to bring the full cabinet for scanning it ::) :P ;D
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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bruno, i've updated the "things-to-do-for-superully"-list - we're getting there ... ;)
- safely wrap up the glass bezel, send it over to germany
- measure the size of the front art
- take a high-quality picture of your pleaids front art so that it is possible to vectorize it (be careful to use a straight angle without any reflections)
- describe / take photos of the way your kick plate is attached to the cabinet (as you can see in this thread, mine had a lot of screws and nails ;))
- take a picture of your plastic monitor bezel and measure its internal and external dimensions. does yours look like the one in the following picture?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3518/3281049063_56ed6f7dde_o.jpg)
and here's an update from my side of the fence: the electronical parts (american pleaids pcb, complete pleiads wiring harness) have just been sent on their way from the usa to germany, they should arrive within the next week or so. then it's time for the technical stuff to begin after all this plastic surgery. somehow i'm NOT looking forward to this because i'm a real noob :oops: when it comes to electronics, but i'm sure i will get there with your help.
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while i'm waiting for the pcb and the wiring harness to arrive, there might be something to do for me in order to prepare for the electrical installation. the manual says that - although the game is shipped in 110 v configuration, the machine can also be operated in 220 v configuration with only minor changes to the game power transformator. have a look at this excerpt from the manual:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3315/3316715994_95cab676b5_o.jpg)
so, according to the manual, all i have to do is replace two fuses and plug in a red jumper plug. i assume the red jumper plug is "on board", but where do i get fuses like that? 1 1/2-AMP, SLOW-BLOW types
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Any local electronics store will carry these fuses :wink:
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if only we had a "local electronics store" ... :'(
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Maybe you can order from conrad.de. I didn't find 1.5A slow blow but they do carry 1.6A slow blow. Such a small difference won't harm anything. :)
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- describe / take photos of the way your kick plate is attached to the cabinet (as you can see in this thread, mine had a lot of screws and nails ;))
- take a picture of your plastic monitor bezel and measure its internal and external dimensions. does yours look like the one in the following picture?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3518/3281049063_56ed6f7dde_o.jpg)
Ok, as promised, here's the info ;)
...but regarding the plastic monitor bezel, the important thing is that the one you'll find have to fit YOUR monitor :P But here's the details of the one I've on my Pleiads :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/pleiads-addi1.jpg)
A : approx 30,3 cm
B : approx 39 cm
C: 48,5 cm
D : 52 cm
Here's now a couple of pictures taken in order to help you the junction between the front part and and rest of the cabinet :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/pleiads-addi2.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/pleiads-addi3.jpg)
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/4ully/pleiads-addi4.jpg)
More pictures in high resolution are available via the link I'm sending to you via private message ;)
Hope it can help you ;)
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thx a lot, bruno - that'll do the trick. interesting to see that your pleiads looks different inside than mine does (and i'm not talking about the spider webs ;))
btw, i've just checked the status of my pleiads usa package: it has already cleared german customs yesterday, so it should arrive within the next couple of days - YEAHHH!!!
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while waiting for the electronic stuff to arrive, i'm making preparations for the second painting job: blue is a goner, white to the stage, please!
here's what i'm using for that:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3035/3323577026_b094cf0771_b.jpg)
i'm starting by covering the artwork's borders with masking tape. don't forget the screws, or you're screwed ;)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3577/3322743015_b4c7cec59e.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3610/3322743199_9207767a34.jpg)
as kit williams wrote in his world-famous treasure-hunting book "masquerade" (one of my other hobbies by the way): I WILL MASK IT
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3014/3322742103_33254a879e.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3588/3322742355_9240e84deb.jpg)
that's all for today, not so much time on my hands right now because the school holidays are over :( . tomorrow i will be picking up the "scanned" pleiads white and hopefully a parcel will be waiting for me on returning home from school.
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You're so fast in all of this :o
A very exiting post to follow...with a ton of pictures... I LOVE IT :-*
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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I'm just back from DHL... the Pleiads bezel is now shipped ;) (I'll send you all the details via PM)
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once again, the cat has dragged something in (those cats are busy indeed ;) ) ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3408/3329103748_f38e665d02.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3069/3329104158_f322ab9b31.jpg)
a closer look at the contents part 1: cable chaos
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3368/3328270201_751851f089_b.jpg)
a closer look at the contents part 2: the heart of it all
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3648/3329104354_e44c141841_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3394/3329104692_1e268cdd2e_b.jpg)
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as i've already said, i've never wired a game before, so i have NO IDEA (except for one or perhaps two cables) where those wires have to go. this is where YOU GUYS come into play ;D
i've taken some photos of the wiring. first a photo with all the wires in one picture. i divided this into two parts, A and B, which you can see in more detail on the two pics following the first one. here's the overall view:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3551/3329136156_62fb2cea63_b.jpg)
part A in more detail:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3390/3329135942_2c20b1bcf5_b.jpg)
part B in more detail:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/3328301137_99779d4749_b.jpg)
now on to the details of the details :arrow: i've taken separate shots of each individual plug / connector to help YOU identify them. let's start ...
plugs 1 & 2:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3656/3328301229_4521494572.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3324/3329135218_4d262c0c82.jpg)
plugs 3 & 4:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3389/3329135100_e26bb5e62d.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3659/3328301691_eb60e0336d.jpg)
plugs 5 (should be where the control panel wiring goes, i guess) & 6:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3577/3329135328_e84922400a.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3537/3328301909_ed28eb23cc.jpg)
plugs 7 & 8: these i know for myself *tata* *drum roll* :) 7 is the connector to the pcb and 8 of course is the power transformator.
on the transformator itself you can see the red and orange jumpers i was talking earlier about (regarding the reconfiguration from 110 to 220 V).
question: how do i get that ugly rust off the transformator? i suppose i can't put this into a rust remover bath :shock:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3324/3329135566_7631a7ebc5.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3361/3329135828_b7f42db6b8.jpg)
ok, that's it from my part, i'll pass the torch on to YOU GUYS now to help me out with the wiring. together we will be able to identify all those bastards :twisted:
THX A LOT!!!
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NOBODY??? :shock: :( :'(
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NOBODY??? :shock: :( :'(
Well, maybe no one here has a Pleiads US dedicated cab, or they didn't see your post yet (only one day old)?
Anyway, the best think to do is to found the Pleiads US pinout on the web, and, starting from the connector (on picture7), indentify the all the connectors/wires and follow them until their extremity.
You'll easily find the controls, the video signals (R,G,B,Hor Sync, Ver Sync, ground), the sound, the coin door switch signal, the power (5v,12v (if any?),...).
The rest will be the fluorescent tube, speakers wires, and power supply wires.
8)
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The rest will be the fluorescent tube, speakers wires, and power supply wires.
8)
quick learner!! :P :P
have a nice weekend.
ps- sorry, i'm not technical at all...
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before i start re-painting the BLUE part of the cabinet, i'm going to put some wheels underneath in order to make that "wooden giant" moveable.
four wheels - each supporting up to 50 kg - that should do the trick!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3451/3307965803_c2be75ae52.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3490/3308795602_83255cc380.jpg)
Hmm... nice wheels ! They carry 50 kg and they're not too tall. I could use some for my cabinets. Can you (or anyone else) recommend an online source for these ? I can't seem to find such wheels anywhere in Italy. I mean, there are plenty of wheels but not exactly like these ones.
Thanks,
Matteo
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Hmm... nice wheels ! They carry 50 kg and they're not too tall. I could use some for my cabinets. Can you (or anyone else) recommend an online source for these ? I can't seem to find such wheels anywhere in Italy. I mean, there are plenty of wheels but not exactly like these ones.
Hi Matteo!
I might have something for you, but I will have to check first if they are still available. If not, I could buy as many as you like in "my" home depot (they cost around 3€ a piece) and send them to you.
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[Anyway, the best think to do is to found the Pleiads US pinout on the web, and, starting from the connector (on picture7), indentify the all the connectors/wires and follow them until their extremity.
You'll easily find the controls, the video signals (R,G,B,Hor Sync, Ver Sync, ground), the sound, the coin door switch signal, the power (5v,12v (if any?),...).
The rest will be the fluorescent tube, speakers wires, and power supply wires.
thx bruno, i was planning on doing so and have already started labellling the wires, but it would be interesting to know what some of the plugs are for, e.g. picture 3 - i've never seen something like this!
btw, i will use the power transformer which is already in the cabinet and some of its wiring (e.g. the monitor and the power supply), because this is already perfect, but i have to change the control panel and the neon wiring for example because the wires from the old jamma wiring won't be usable.
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as i've already said, i've never wired a game before, so i have NO IDEA (except for one or perhaps two cables) where those wires have to go. this is where YOU GUYS come into play ;D
First of all a couple of pics from the service manual to assist you.
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5702/pagesfrompleiades01.th.jpg) (http://img26.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pagesfrompleiades01.jpg)
(http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/7422/pagesfrompleiades02.th.jpg) (http://img24.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pagesfrompleiades02.jpg)
My guess is :
1 - cabinet switch & marquee light power supply
2 - monitor power supply
3 - speaker
4 - monitor video input
5 - control panel
6 - coin door
7 - pcb edge connector
8 - power transformer
And don't forget the wires (7 ?) to the switching power supply (missing in the pictures), that you didn't number.
I can also spot some spare earth wires which are to be connected to the metal parts of the cabinet (coin door, monitor frame, control panel, etc).
Use a meter to verify all this and don't blame me if I got something wrong, ok ? ;)
Bye,
Matteo
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My guess is :
1 - cabinet switch & marquee light power supply
2 - monitor power supply
3 - speaker
4 - monitor video input
5 - control panel
6 - coin door
7 - pcb edge connector
8 - power transformer
And don't forget the wires (7 ?) to the switching power supply (missing in the pictures), that you didn't number.
I can also spot some spare earth wires which are to be connected to the metal parts of the cabinet (coin door, monitor frame, control panel, etc).
Use a meter to verify all this and don't blame me if I got something wrong, ok ? ;)
thx a lot matteo. in the meantime i have been able to lable many of the wires - and you're absolutely right on numbers 4 to 8 (haven't checked 1 to 3 yet). one question remains for now:
which wires do you mean by "And don't forget the wires (7 ?) to the switching power supply (missing in the pictures), that you didn't number."???
could YOU perhaps number them on one of my pics, don't know which wires you're talking about. thx a lot :-[
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could YOU perhaps number them on one of my pics, don't know which wires you're talking about. thx a lot :-[
(http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/6303/pleiadeswiring.th.jpg) (http://img230.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pleiadeswiring.jpg)
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aren't those simple ground wires?
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another pleiads package has just arrived :) this time, it's a delivery from bruno. our cats already are huge fans of it :-*
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3413/3340269233_9091069363_b.jpg)
of course, the question of the day is: HAS THE GLASS BEZEL SURVIVED A TRIP OF MORE THAN 400 KILOMETERS??? i'm opening it carefully, no sounds of broken glass to be heard. that's a good sign ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3306/3340269329_27b34101d6_b.jpg)
*** DRUM ROLL***
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3392/3340269107_0b4851ebdd_b.jpg)
yeah baby! this is it. :spaceace: bruno, you're the man :spaceace:
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aren't those simple ground wires?
I don't think so. Track them down, I guess they go to the pcb connector and to the power transformer.
A couple should carry the AC main voltage to the switch supply, the rest should carry +5 V, -5 V, +12 V, GND for main game board supply.
Matteo
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Glad you got the glass bezel in one piece ;)
I hope you'll be able to fix the 'slightly broken' corners on it :?
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Hmm... nice wheels ! They carry 50 kg and they're not too tall. I could use some for my cabinets. Can you (or anyone else) recommend an online source for these ? I can't seem to find such wheels anywhere in Italy. I mean, there are plenty of wheels but not exactly like these ones.
@matteo: i can't find the ones online anymore that i was looking for. as i've said before: i could buy them for you and send them over to italy. if the weight of the package doesn't exceed 2kg, it will cost around 10 euros of postage. let me know if you're interested!
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i will be trying to rewire the game soon, however i'm still waiting for some parts to arrive. in order to avoid a standstill, i'll continue with the cosmetic repairs. the "object of today's affection" is the glass monitor bezel that bruno so kindly gave to me. unfortunately, it has some cracks in the glass, especially the edges are pretty rough. after some investigation on the internet on how to repair broken glass, i've found something that might just do the trick: CAST RESIN. here's what i will be using for that operation:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3617/3351513180_d1b12a5ab4_b.jpg)
but before i'm able to repair the cracks using the cast resin, i will have to make some molds first in order to keep the resin in shape. i'm using an old plastic box for that which i have already divided into four sections with a marker and then - using a small saw - it's being cut into pieces :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/3350688481_aecf8d15c7.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3644/3351511476_16d0947fef.jpg)
here's the result: four small plastic molds for the four corners of the bezel. :)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3418/3351511622_13d087cf7c_b.jpg)
after some (successful) testing on a glass shard with the cast resin, it's time to apply it to the "real deal". i'll start with one corner first to see if the glass shard and the glass bezel produce equal results.
the tools of the day are:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3432/3350690283_ac649f3c44_b.jpg)
you might ask yourself: "what the heck is a breathing protection doing there?" easy answer: the cast resin stinks like hell, makes you dizzy and causes incredible headache when breathed in for some minutes.
here's another step-by-step description of the procedure:
step 1: fixing the mold to the glass bezel:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3428/3350690625_cee89b4ef0_b.jpg)
step 2: mixing up the cast resin with the hardener and pouring it into the mold:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3539/3350690413_e9608bdae4.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3589/3350690519_05f27fbb69.jpg)
step 3:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3664/3350915145_410150d1b6_o.jpg)
step 4: removing the mold
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3264/3350691043_6dc98afc4f_b.jpg)
step 5: sanding off the spill-over
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3636/3351514300_0daa8345d8.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3630/3350690769_743bd19612.jpg)
step 6: polishing the still milky glass
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3473/3351513890_791c1232fc_b.jpg)
step 7: dancing around in joy because of the fantastic result :spaceace:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3550/3351514406_648b15e03d_b.jpg)
i'm ABSOLUTELY thrilled by the way this turned out. couldn't be any better! let's make a comparison: the typical before and after pictures :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3442/3350690073_739e097eb7.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3062/3351514544_840b4d1b35.jpg)
monitor-glass-bezel-to-do-list:
- repair all the other cracks major cracks
- put black plastic foil on the back of the bezel where it is missing
what do you guys think? doesn't it look great?
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what do you guys think? doesn't it look great?
that's incredible, like magic!
i learn so much stuff through reading other people's restoration projects it's amazing. that's some good skills there. are those liquid resin thingies expensive?? i'm really surprised how clear it is once it's been polished up and left to dry.
amazing!
:spaceace:
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sorry, may i also make this assumption from the photo with the cats... because there's so much DHL tape on the box, that they have opened it up for inspection??
lovely cats by the way. i love myself a cat. :'(
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are those liquid resin thingies expensive??
nope, the cast resin costs €5,50 (for a quarter of a litre - and that's A LOT), the polish €4,25.
i've bought my stuff here http://www.aura-shop.de/giessharz.htm (http://www.aura-shop.de/giessharz.htm), but you can also get it from other locations!
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sorry, may i also make this assumption from the photo with the cats... because there's so much DHL tape on the box, that they have opened it up for inspection??
lovely cats by the way. i love myself a cat. :'(
don't think that it has been opened, that's the way bruno packed it ;) as for the cats: thanks a lot, they indeed are LOVELY!!!
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i only did german for 1 year in school when i was 12. :'( :'(
i did french for 5 years between 11 and 16. :-\ :-\
thanks for the link.
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WOOOWW :o :o :o :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3062/3351514544_840b4d1b35.jpg)
What an amazing job :o ... and a great 'how to do' post :-*
Congratulation :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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What an amazing job :o ... and a great 'how to do' post :-*
thx bruno! i wasn't sure how this would turn out exactly, but i'm still fascinated by the result. the only thing left to do is cover the areas where the black is missing. on your "space invaders ii restoration" you've used black foil from the car industry. i'm not sure whether this will do the trick, i'm thinking in the "glass colour direction", but i have to do some research on colours first.
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...the only thing left to do is cover the areas where the black is missing. on your "space invaders ii restoration" you've used black foil from the car industry. i'm not sure whether this will do the trick, i'm thinking in the "glass colour direction", but i have to do some research on colours first.
Before using black foil, I've done a lot of 'painting' experiences, but it's very difficult to find a color to paint glass... I wasn't able to find one. But because the 'rebuild' corners are not glass... maybe you can paint it with a common paint?
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well then, in between all those cosmetic surgeries i shouldn't forget that there is a game waiting to be played at some point in the future. that's why i'm turning to the wiring of the cab now (but don't worry, the cosmetic operations will continue nevertheless).
as i've said before, i've never wired a cab and i'm not an electronic expert (mildly speaking). that's why there are MANY QUESTIONS coming up.
the first thing i've done is take the pleaids wiring schematics and colour the corresponding wires to make things easier. here's how this looks:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3468/3357127108_c921c9cb85_b.jpg)
i will start with some simple (?) questions first:
(1) where do the "dc power supply outputs" go to (connect to WHERE)?
(2) could someone give me a short (but understandable) introduction what the function of those +5v (green), -5v (orange), +12v (red) and 0v (grey, blue on the coin door connector, turquoise) wires are? why the different voltages, why PLUS and MINUS and ZERO volts?
that's enough for now, more questions to follow - PROMISE ;)
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All tou need to have is to get a power supply (maybe you already have one in your cab).
Then link the différente voltages, including the ground (GND or 0V, it's the same thing, it's a reference).
Seems that you don't have electricity basic knwoledges. :'(
Why all those different values ? Because the chips of your pcb may need one of these voltage in order to work.
usually +5 VDC. +12V and -5V are often used for audio amplificators.
You may not really need -5V as all power supply doesn't output this kind of voltage.
If your schematic is correct, -5V is only for the coin door/coin mech.
If I was you, I would only link 5 and 12 to the cpu connector. (and GND of course) and leave the coin door connector alone for the moment.
I hope it helps
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All tou need to have is to get a power supply (maybe you already have one in your cab).
Then link the différente voltages, including the ground (GND or 0V, it's the same thing, it's a reference).
Seems that you don't have electricity basic knwoledges. :'(
Why all those different values ? Because the chips of your pcb may need one of these voltage in order to work.
usually +5 VDC. +12V and -5V are often used for audio amplificators.
You may not really need -5V as all power supply doesn't output this kind of voltage.
If your schematic is correct, -5V is only for the coin door/coin mech.
If I was you, I would only link 5 and 12 to the cpu connector. (and GND of course) and leave the coin door connector alone for the moment.
thx a lot, and unfortunately you're absolutely right, my basic eletronic knowledge isn't THAT HUGE ;), but what better place to start than here? i'm absolutely willing to learn, but as you can see i need your support.
i do have a power supply installed in my cab already, it's a hantarex us 250. where can i find out what kind of voltage my pcb needs? and even more important: where do i link the power supply outputs to exactly? is there some kind of manual on the internet where i can learn something about basic voltage / wiring knowledge?
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here's the wiring situation within the cab at the moment:
- the power supply
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3615/3357778786_eb117a8114_b.jpg)
1 = pcb connector
2 = monitor connector
3 = marquee lights connector
4 = main interlock switch
5 = power cord
- the monitor
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3651/3356960445_751866e108_b.jpg)
A = monitor output connector (rgb, horizontal and vertical sync, ground)
B = remote control board
C = monitor power supply
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Look at each side of the supply facing the connectors, the pinouts of each one should be written there on a sticker.
Matteo
here's the wiring situation within the cab at the moment:
- the power supply
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3615/3357778786_eb117a8114_b.jpg)
1 = pcb connector
2 = monitor connector
3 = marquee lights connector
4 = main interlock switch
5 = power cord
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Look at each side of the supply facing the connectors, the pinouts of each one should be written there on a sticker.
yes, they are. look at the following pictures :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3613/3358799339_2263f1791b_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3656/3358799465_ea8985f6b7_b.jpg)
plugging in the correct molex pins shouldn't be a problem :-[, but (sorry for being stupid) my questions still remain:
- WHAT TO DO WITH THOSE DC POWER SUPPLY OUTPUTS???
- WHERE TO CONNECT THEM TO???
these are no molex pins which i can plug into a molex connector :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3554/3359617896_f67d5738af_b.jpg)
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if you don't want to directly solder your connection, and I would advice you to not do it,
you may need the missing molex connectors.
http://www.starcab.net/product_info.php?cPath=90_229_120&products_id=747 (http://www.starcab.net/product_info.php?cPath=90_229_120&products_id=747)
(http://www.starcab.net/images/MLX.jpg)
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thx, but i already have (almost) all the molex connectors i need. my open questions however remain open ;)
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- WHAT TO DO WITH THOSE DC POWER SUPPLY OUTPUTS???
- WHERE TO CONNECT THEM TO???
these are no molex pins which i can plug into a molex connector :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3554/3359617896_f67d5738af_b.jpg)
Your wiring was obviously made for a different kind of power supply, like this one :
http://www.coinopexpress.com/products/parts/power_supplies/15A_Switching_Power_Supply_for_Arcade_Game_3517.html (http://www.coinopexpress.com/products/parts/power_supplies/15A_Switching_Power_Supply_for_Arcade_Game_3517.html)
(http://www.jammaboards.com/store/images/uploads//P032_Power_Supply_WM_332x448_LR.jpg)
Using the Hantarex US 250 is possible but you will need to cut out those "fork" style ends and put the wires into molex to match the connectors on the Hantarex supply.
Matteo
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thx, but i already have (almost) all the molex connectors i need. my open questions however remain open ;)
you want to know where you have ti wire on the molex connectors ?
do you have pictures of the molex end connectors, like the link I have provided this morning ?
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Your wiring was obviously made for a different kind of power supply, like this one :
Using the Hantarex US 250 is possible but you will need to cut out those "fork" style ends and put the wires into molex to match the connectors on the Hantarex supply.
hmmm, the problem is:
the complete wiring i am using was taken from a pleiads machine - including the power transformator (which is this rusty block of metal). because i already have a power transformator in my cab (the hantarex 250, which is already wired to the monitor), i decided against using the rusty original one.
however, IF i were to use the original one, i STILL would not know where to connect those dc power suply outputs to, because there is nothing to connect them to on the original transformator (have a look at the pictures).
i'm confused :? do you understand my problem? i don't know where to connect those wires to, with or without molex or fork-style connectors!
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you want to know where you have ti wire on the molex connectors ?
do you have pictures of the molex end connectors, like the link I have provided this morning ?
these are normal 3, 6, 9 and 12 pin molex connectors, just like the ones from your link. you should see them on all the pictures from the wiring and the power supply that i've posted here.
what i want to know is where those dc power supply outputs go (if i cut off the fork-style connectors). which ones do i need, which molex connectors do they go to?
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slowly (but surely) i'm beginning to understand what you're trying to tell me ;)
here's the cable that's coming out of the hantarex 250 transformer and which is supposed to be the logic board power input. keep in mind, this was used to power a jamma-driven truxton ii-pcb. i have numbered the pins in the second picture to make things easier for you :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3437/3360116751_3097a6d73f.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3636/3360933858_3a47bfb1bd.jpg)
as you can see, there are molex pins on positions 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 9. let's have a look at the description on the power transformator. i have coloured the used pins according to the colours of the cables and i have crossed out the unused pins :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3360117007_ac99923b28_b.jpg)
so according to this schematic, we have the following:
(a) pins 1 and 2: 5V
(b) pins 4 and 6: GND
(c) pin 8: 12V
(d) pin 9: -5V
(e) pins 3, 5 and 7: unused (looks like tic-tac-toe ::))
i was told that i should only use the 5V, the 12V and the GROUND DC Power Supply Outputs coming from the PCB. if that's correct, i would have to leave out one ground output and the -5V output from the coin connector. the schematic would look like that (i have circled / crossed out the DC power supply outputs i need / don't need) :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3607/3360116401_f195edf71e_b.jpg)
putting this together i have the following:
- i have 3 (=three) wires (5V, 12V and GND) coming from the logic board connector
- i have 6 (=six) wires (2 x 5V, 2 x GND, 12V and -5V) coming from the power transformator
this leaves me with some questions:
(1) what do i do with the 3-wire-difference? remove one 5V, one GND and the -5V wire from the power transformator connector? are there three wires more because the power transformator was used to run the truxton ii pcb?
(2) what do i do with the GND and the -5V wire coming from the coin connector?
(3) where would i have connected those fork-style connectors to IF i had used the old rusty power transformator?
i think that's enough for now, sorry to bother you with this, but without the correct wiring no pleaids gaming EVER ... :'(
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while i'm waiting for all the explanatory answers to pop up here, i'm throwing another set of questions into the mix:
can someone explain to me, what's up with those -5V, +5V and +12V connections in an arcade machine? why those values, what are the different values good for?
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I don't know exactly about the -5V but +5V is for the logic (ram, (ep)rom, processor,...) and +12V is for the audio section.
EDIT:
In this case the -5V wire has no use for your pcb since it's connected to the coin door. It's probably used for the meter or lights or something...
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putting this together i have the following:
- i have 3 (=three) wires (5V, 12V and GND) coming from the logic board connector
- i have 6 (=six) wires (2 x 5V, 2 x GND, 12V and -5V) coming from the power transformator
this leaves me with some questions:
(1) what do i do with the 3-wire-difference? remove one 5V, one GND and the -5V wire from the power transformator connector? are there three wires more because the power transformator was used to run the truxton ii pcb?
(2) what do i do with the GND and the -5V wire coming from the coin connector?
(3) where would i have connected those fork-style connectors to IF i had used the old rusty power transformator?
i think that's enough for now, sorry to bother you with this, but without the correct wiring no pleaids gaming EVER ... :'(
Multiple +5V wires are used to have a sufficient supply of current to your pcb. Because if a too thin wire is used it is possible that your pcb can not get enough current, and the wire can get overheated. It is best to solder one wire to pcb connector "K" and the other to "9" according to the schematic provided.
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Multiple +5V wires are used to have a sufficient supply of current to your pcb. Because if a too thin wire is used it is possible that your pcb can not get enough current, and the wire can get overheated. It is best to solder one wire to pcb connector "K" and the other to "9" according to the schematic provided.
the wires are already attached to K and 9 on the pcb connector PLUS there is an additional wire linked with those two on position 8 - just as you can see that in the schematics. so these three wires are somehow linked together, but in the end it's only one +5V wire (the light green one) going to the power transformator. Will that be good enough?
IF that's the case, to which +5V pin (coming from the power transformator) do i connect the light green wire to? remember, there are TWO +5V wires coming from the power transformator, pin 1 AND pin 2. does it even matter?
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the wires are already attached to K and 9 on the pcb connector PLUS there is an additional wire linked with those two on position 8 - just as you can see that in the schematics. so these three wires are somehow linked together, but in the end it's only one +5V wire (the light green one) going to the power transformator. Will that be good enough?
If it's already 1 wire it's probably fine :) If you experience problems you can always add another wire later.
IF that's the case, to which +5V pin (coming from the power transformator) do i connect the light green wire to? remember, there are TWO +5V wires coming from the power transformator, pin 1 AND pin 2. does it even matter?
Either will be fine, the +5V connectors are internally linked.
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Either will be fine, the +5V connectors are internally linked.
why are there two +5V outputs then?
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To supply more power to pcb's that need more power :)
It's possible that it is also used to provide power to a game that has multiple boards, so each board has it's own direct supply. That's why they are internally connected, if they wouldn't it could be possible that there are potential differences or others weird problems.
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I just looked up the manual of your power supply and found it here:
http://www.andysarcade.de/data/coinop/videogames/power_supplies/us250_us350_manual.pdf
(http://users.telenet.be/_petit/hantarexus250.jpg)
When you look at the part I circled you can see that PIN 1 & 2 are the same point. Which means internally connected.
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thx a lot, petieken! that should do the trick. i appreciate your efforts and all the input that has come from everyone else so far. i'm sure there will be more questions to follow, but for now i'm satisfied ;)
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oh, one more thing: i guess it doesn't matter either which ground connection i choose on the power transformator (4, 5, 6 or 7), right? i only have one ground wire (light grey, linked on the pcb connector on positions A, 1, 2 and 3), but four possibilies on the power transformator (4 through 7).
btw, what to do with one unused +5V, one unused GND pin and the unused -5V pin of the power transformator? just ignore those pins or remove them?
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oh, one more thing: i guees it doesn't matter either which ground connection i choose on the power transformator (4, 5, 6 or 7), right? i only have one ground wire (light grey, linked on the pcb connector on positions A, 1, 2 and 3), but four possibilies on the power transformator (4 through 7).
As you can see on the schematic too, pins 4,5,6&7 are also the same point. So it doesn't matter which you choose.
btw, what to do with one unused +5V, one unused GND pin and the unused -5V pin of the power transformator? just ignore those pins or remove them?
If there is bare wire showing, tape it off with electrical tape so it can't make a short anywhere. If there's no bare wire showing you're fine. :)
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i just wanted to "install" the pcb into the cabinet, when i realized that one of the connecting wires on the pcb has gone loose:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3424/3370338086_a0852ced8c.jpg)
i don't know where this wire is supposed to be attached to, there are many possibilities. the chip on the back of the pcb where the wire is coming from is labelled C44. i'm sure that you can find the desired information in the pleiads schematics, but i'm not very good at reading those (to say the least). would anybody be so kind and check this out for me, you can find the manual on klov.com under the pleaids game description.
thx a lot in advance!!!
EDIT: the pleiads pcb is made up of two boards, a cpu board and a rom board. the loose wire is on the cpu board which is labelled "CPU BOARD; TEHKAN-01" in the manual
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It may not be mentioned in the manual, as such wires were often fitted afterwards, as a fix.
On your picture, it looks like there are marks around the pin where the wire has been soldered on manually. Can't you see any other such pins on the board?
Anyway, I don't think it will break anything if you don't solder the wire back on, as long as you cover the other end with some tape.
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what's the use of those wires anyway?
by the way, the wire has also "fallen off" on the other side without touching it. however, i seem to have found both spots where the ends have been attached to, but i'm not 100% sure. what to do now?
- leave out the wire completely
- solder the wire back on (without being sure whether it's the right spot or not)
???
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If you leave out the wire completely, you will have the board as it was originally designed, as far as I understand.
Nothing bad should happen, as long as you make sure that the end of the wire is covered (no metal exposed).
You need the schematics to really understand what the wire intended to fix/improve/do. If you look at the schematics and check the pins where you think the wire was soldered.. What do you see? What is the function of the pins? Some kind of data? +5v? Ground? Is the function of the two connected pins the same? Maybe these cables were installed by an operator/technician because of broken traces on the board? I have done so myself sometimes. When you test it, you may see that it's not working at all, because the wire is supposed to "bring" for example +5v from one pin to the other, and now it isn't.
If you aren't comfortable with this, I would just recommend you to cover the wire end with some tape and test the board.
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the wiring is progressing slowly but surely, some more questions have popped up:
first, here are the schematics again:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3607/3360116401_f195edf71e_b.jpg)
as you can see, there's a GND wire running from the COU Edge Connector (blue, letter B) towards the Control Panel Connector. However, on its "journey to the Control Panel Connector" it splits up: one wire connects to the Control Panel Connector (blue, number 1), the other one connects to the Coin Door Connector (blue, number 6). What is the function of that second wire running to the Coin Door Connector?
let's continue: coming from the Coin Door Connector is another GND wire (turquoise, number 20) which end in this fork-like connector (crossed out on the schematics). This one has to be connected to the power transformator if i'm correct. Right?
the original pleiads wiring i'm using has a 24 pin amp coin door connector (NOT a molex connector). i'm removing this connector from the cab, because there are some wires attached to it which i'm not planning on using: -5V (number 19), +5V (number 14), coin counter (number 13).
the coin door wiring that's already in the cab looks like this:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3613/3389007131_c47274c727_b.jpg)
as you can see on that picture, there are two wires coming from the microswitches: a purple one which registers the coins and a black one which should be a GND wire.
let me sum this up. there are several wires not connected yet: a ground wire from the transformator running to the coin door connector, a ground wire running from the control panel to the coin door connector, a black wire coming from the microswitches going WHERE???
now on to my questions:
(1) where do i connect the blue wire to which is running from the control panel to the coin door?
(2) where do i connect the turquoise wire to which is coming from the coin door and which ends in the fork-like connector?
(3) where do i connect the black wire to which is coming from the microswitches?
hopefully, someone out there is not as confused as i am and is able to help me out with my wiring problem!!! i'm almost done with it and can't wait to turn the machine on ...
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one more wiring question. have a look at the following photo:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3460/3393854135_36b0b11fa7.jpg)
attached / screwed to the power transformator (circled red) is a yellow-green GND wire which ends in two connectors (circled blue). where do i have to srew these connectors to? metal parts? if so, is it important which metal parts or as long as it's metal, noone cares?
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where do i have to screw these connectors to? metal parts?
Yes, metal and not painted over. They need to make a good electric contact with the metal part.
if so, is it important which metal parts or as long as it's metal, noone cares?
You have to connect them to monitor frame, coin door, control panel and any other metal part that can collect static electricity and needs to be at ground potential. Otherwise the static electricity will discharge through your body when you touch these parts.
Matteo
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You have to connect them to monitor frame, coin door, control panel and any other metal part that can collect static electricity and needs to be at ground potential. Otherwise the static electricity will discharge through your body when you touch these parts.
does that hurt? ;) :shock:
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another boring wiring question :arrow:
i still have to connect the wires coming from the power transformator with the wires coming from the pleiads pcb (by doing so i'm powering the pcb). however, because the pcb is original NOS, but the power transformator is not, the wires are different in size (see the following picture).
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3619/3396225014_52ba7d77dd_b.jpg)
the ones on the left are the pcb wires, the ones on the right are the power transformator wires - the latter are twice as thick as the pcb wires.
question: is that difference in diameter of importance (meaning i would have to chance either of them) or can i simply ignore it and connect them?
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You have to connect them to monitor frame, coin door, control panel and any other metal part that can collect static electricity and needs to be at ground potential. Otherwise the static electricity will discharge through your body when you touch these parts.
does that hurt? ;) :shock:
Haha, a few years ago in a local bar there were 2 pinballs which werent grounded. When you touched only one it was nothing, but touch them both and you got a minor shock. It was funny trying to trick friends into touching them both. ;D
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the ones on the left are the pcb wires, the ones on the right are the power transformator wires - the latter are twice as thick as the pcb wires.
question: is that difference in diameter of importance (meaning i would have to chance either of them) or can i simply ignore it and connect them?
Since the wires from your pcb are the smallest you can ignore the diameter difference. The pcb wires are factory standard (I assume?), that means you can connect any wire to it that is equal or bigger in diameter to it. As long as you don't go smaller than the factory wiring you're fine.
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(1) where do i connect the blue wire to which is running from the control panel to the coin door?
(2) where do i connect the turquoise wire to which is coming from the coin door and which ends in the fork-like connector?
(3) where do i connect the black wire to which is coming from the microswitches?
1+3)The blue wire in the schematic goes from pcb pin B to control panel 1 and coin door 6. The blue wire is a ground wire, the pcb registers an input when it's connected to ground. So you'll have to connect the pcb pin B to control panel ground (also blue?) and to the coin switch ground (the black wire on the coin switch).
2)I'm not 100% sure on the turquoise wire, can you take a picture of the coin door or anything related to that wire?
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1+3)The blue wire in the schematic goes from pcb pin B to control panel 1 and coin door 6. The blue wire is a ground wire, the pcb registers an input when it's connected to ground. So you'll have to connect the pcb pin B to control panel ground (also blue?) and to the coin switch ground (the black wire on the coin switch).
2)I'm not 100% sure on the turquoise wire, can you take a picture of the coin door or anything related to that wire?
:arrow: so i will connect one blue wire to the control panel connector (which is GND) and the other one with the black wire from the microswitches
:arrow: as for the turquoise wire and the coin door: it is a simple midway coindoor without anything special to it, no electronics, no nothing - just two microswitches screwed under the coin slots. i guess a picture wouldn't help anything.
those fork-like wires have confused me from the beginning. i also have the original power transformator and on this original transformator there wouldn't have been anything to attach those fork-like wires to. but i'm using the power transformator already in the cab, so i somehow have to bring the power from the transformator to the pcb.
here's what i have done (and i really hope this will work) :arrow:
i have cut off the fork-like wire endings from the following wires:
- +5 V (green on the schematics)
- +12 V (red)
- 0V (light grey)
those are the ones i'm connecting to the power transformator outputs (see the pictures with the thicker wires above)
as for the turquoise (0 V) and orange (-5V) fork-like wire: i don't know their purpose, so i'm planning on simply not using them.
what do you think? have i made any mistakes from what you can see? would you do something differently?
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now that i'm always done with re-wiring the cab, is there any way to test it before "going online", eg. measuring, plugging in only parts of the whole system, ...?
i don't want to destroy the board or get a life-threatening electrical shock :ghost:
so if there's something for me to do, please let me know ASAP!!!
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:arrow: so i will connect one blue wire to the control panel connector (which is GND) and the other one with the black wire from the microswitches
:arrow: as for the turquoise wire and the coin door: it is a simple midway coindoor without anything special to it, no electronics, no nothing - just two microswitches screwed under the coin slots. i guess a picture wouldn't help anything.
Yes, you have to connect the blue wire from the pcb (B) to control panel GND and to the Black coin switch wire (also GND)
You can leave out the turquoise wire, it won't harm anything. If something isn't working because of that wire, it can be solved later on. My only guess it was for a coin meter originally.
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ok guys - THIS IS IT
after a long (and twilight) struggle with wires, GND, voltages, molex pins and molex connectors PLUS a lot of help from this board, i simply can't resist any longer. time to test what i've spent countless hours with. this is do or die, the breaking point - either this is going to work or i'll have to look for a new hobby ;)
let's "install" the original centuri pleiads board in the cabinet:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/3402368302_ea9bd96f32_b.jpg)
let's plug in all the molex connectors - doesn't this look as if someone knew what he was doing? :shock:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3465/3402368068_4992723d58_b.jpg)
ok, everything's set and done - the stage is yours
*drumroll*
*plugging in the power chord
*drumroll getting louder*
*turning on the power switch*
*drumroll sounding like thunder*
*waiting anxiously for something to happen*
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3592/3402367840_6bf60521fd_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/3402367666_34d060efe4_o.jpg)
YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSS
i can't believe it, it's working!!! all the buttons, the microswitches, the sound, the graphics, the neon light - EVERYTHING!!! i'm thrilled, ...
however, ... :'(
.
..
...
....
.....
......
.......
........
.........
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there is a problem:
when it's player 2's turn to play the game, the picture is being turned upside down - as if two players were playing at a cocktail table facing each other. is there a way to change this so that the second player doesn't have to stand on his head while playing???
could it be that the little white wire on the board which "fell off" was there to stop the picture from "going 180 on me"?
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According to this dip switch manual you have to flip switch 8
:arrow: http://www.crazykong.com/dips/Pleiads.txt
Glad you finally have the game up and running! ;D
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yep. simple dip switch setting.
but......
F**K YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WELL happen for you.
GAME On!!!
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Nerves of steel man!
I wouldn't even attempt all of that wiring - bravo!!
Can't wait to see the finished product.
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after all this (boring?) wiring stuff i'm going back to the "cosmetic operations" - time to finish this (although there's still a lot to do).
remember? the painting job wasn't finished. time to apply WHITE :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3587/3404036684_6de9a578c8_b.jpg)
the result doesn't look perfect (rough edges and lines), but after some manual touching up, i'm happy. gone are (almost) all those cracks, holes and screws - the cabinet looks "fresh" again!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3551/3403225529_47a1fdb97a.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3559/3404036868_74afdaeac4_b.jpg)
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houston, we have a problem!!! :'( the metal control panel that i have painstakingly cut and repainted is TOO BIG. not in width, but in depth - i won't be able to attach the 1-player-select-button and its wiring because its too close to the wood (and i can't cut an opening into it). DAMN - what a mistake! i had never thought of that.
but don't worry, there's always a solution in sight. this time, the solution is called "building a completely new control panel" :) here we go ...
first of all, three wooden boards, two of those make the upper part where the buttons will be located.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3639/3404060216_e917d41968.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3558/3403249121_bf0bf3d468.jpg)
then, i'm using my router to round off the front. looks good, doesn't it?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3555/3404060378_495760f12f.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3639/3403249311_51632f4061.jpg)
after some careful testing of the position of the buttons (don't want to screw this control panel up AGAIN), it's hole-drilling-time :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3617/3403263673_7695eb4aa3_b.jpg)
i didn't take any pictures of all the drilling and routing that followed. so, ladies and gentlemen, without further adue, my new control panel in a rough, unpainted state :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/3403263587_697065f660_b.jpg)
from behind :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3463/3404074420_ea4e57ccde.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3454/3403263395_d8d2944d12.jpg)
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look at the back of those crazy arse buttons!! :o :o
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I just want to say CONGRATULATIONS! ;D :D ;D :D ;D :D
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I just want to say CONGRATULATIONS! ;D :D ;D :D ;D :D
thx, still can't believe that it's working. hopefully it will also pass the durability test once everything's set and done :twisted:
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another "pleiads package" has arrived :)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3451/3403389717_0cd89c1ba5_b.jpg)
this is the original molding (without the T) which was used on the pleiads cabs. so great that i found that over at t-molding.com
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3433/3403389807_507f5ac9ea.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3442/3404200024_d41da87e0a.jpg)
let's see how this is going to look on the cabinet ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3651/3403389887_00220436c1_b.jpg)
PERFECT, FANTASTIC, AMAZING!!! what difference such a simple piece of black plastics makes!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3634/3404199924_c79e612bdf_b.jpg)
@bruno: i still have a couple of centimeters left. wanna have it to replace your interim solution - this really is the same as the original? if so, how many centimeters would you need?
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AWESOME :o You did it right ;) :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/3402367666_34d060efe4_o.jpg)
Wow... this is EXACTLY what I need to :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3433/3403389807_507f5ac9ea.jpg)
I'll check how many CM I need ;)
Amazing job so far, congratulation. :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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after my joust 2 roadtrip (and another one for an empty taito cab which will serve as the new home for a dedicated bubble bobble machine) it's (about) time to finish my pleiads project.
the following tube arrived today from england :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3613/3462477035_362e72e8ee_b.jpg)
fresh from the printer: the control panel overlay and the missing front art (once again a big THANX to bruno for scanning this). the quality of both items is fabulous!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/3463292340_b49013dce6_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3573/3462478081_54eea0da32_b.jpg)
i can't wait, i have to put the front art on my newly-cut cabinet front. NOTE: these are NOT my hands ;) :P
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3629/3462476711_470f5bdfca_b.jpg)
after cutting out the space for the coin door and installing the latter, the new front is being "installed" into the cabinet. i'm more than pleased!!! :)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3647/3462477485_7033d787f8.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3589/3463291818_34663f9294.jpg)
next thing to do: assemble the control panel and attach the control panel overlay. stay tuned ... :spaceace:
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as promised, on with the control panel.
here's my newly-constructed wooden control panel after being painted and assembled in its "raw" form :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3643/3466516014_a9d525d2e2_b.jpg)
and here's the final version of my edited control panel overlay. note that i have included both the irecsa and the centuri logo in the design because my cabinet is a combination of those two.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3660/3465721003_ac57c765c6_b.jpg)
time to apply the freshly-printed control panel overlay onto the wooden panel. once again, these are not my hands ;)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3567/3465701731_645bf515d1_b.jpg)
cutting out the holes for the buttons :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3601/3465702427_1c5da3e82d.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3520/3465702193_c3b8258521.jpg)
PERFECT!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3480/3465702649_7e34b3e077_b.jpg)
can't wait, i have to install the buttons ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3650/3466517360_ae24121490_b.jpg)
in order to attach the control panel to the front plate, i'm mounting a metal joint to the control panel first
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3656/3466517682_bd614a2b8f.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3490/3465703369_d4a2072bff.jpg)
still missing: the wiring harness! but not for much longer :)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3626/3466517080_a13c17f5af_b.jpg)
finally, the beautiful control panel on location!!!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3596/3465701517_4d74a83793_b.jpg)
i'm thrilled, this is coming to a close. still waiting for my plastic monitor bezel which i got off ebay.co.uk (should arrive shortly) - then i'll be able to insert the glass monitor bezel.
stay tuned for more pleiads craziness :twisted:
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I love what you are doing on this :-* :-* :-*
When I see the initial pictures (Truxton II conversion), and see what it's turning now :-* It was a real challenge...and you did it ;D
Ok, you've made some 'interpretations' (mixing Centuri & Irecsa specs for example)... but the most important is here... a great homage to Pleiads :-*
Don't forget to shoot a video at the end by the way ;) :P
At least I'll have a competitor on this game... Who'll be the King of Pleiads? :P ;D
:spaceace:
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At least I'll have a competitor on this game... Who'll be the King of Pleiads? :P ;D
I will 'cause I have the "famous" WARP button ;) :spaceace:
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At least I'll have a competitor on this game... Who'll be the King of Pleiads? :P ;D
I will 'cause I have the "famous" WARP button ;) :spaceace:
Cheat mode not allowed on my Thekan board ;D
Hey, by the way, I hope you still have some T molding (without the 'T') left for me? Let's say 1 meter? Let me know :-*
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Hey, by the way, I hope you still have some T molding (without the 'T') left for me? Let's say 1 meter? Let me know :-*
right now i only have about 30 centimeters left, but i will get a new batch soon - and then the meter is yours :-*
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ully
great work, really a great work you're doing!
my best wishes for your (ending) project
Mav
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great work, really a great work you're doing!
my best wishes for your (ending) project
thx a lot, i'm doing my very best :)
today, the (hopefully) last package with a pleiads reference has arrived. looking huge, doesn't it?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3607/3471349586_53b2c8a2cd_b.jpg)
inside, a plastic monitor bezel! it was WAY MORE difficult to find one that would fit the size of my screen than i had expected ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3470535281_fc6b970a14_b.jpg)
the inner measurements are perfect, however, the outer measurements aren't. so i have to cut it down in size!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3630/3470535509_6292a3d25c.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3570/3470535415_b7b187cbed.jpg)
on location - fits like a glove 8)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3647/3471350102_da7bb14fa3_b.jpg)
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time to finish the glass monitor bezel. after those glass repairs i had done earlier, there's still the issue of the missing black background colour. after some research on the internet, i found just the right stuff: black opaque window colour!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3590/3471350216_0f5a4e2cbc_b.jpg)
after masking off the parts worthy of protection, some strokes with the brush should do the trick :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3610/3470536097_05e97d5c6c_b.jpg)
a close-up picture of one of the rebuilt and repainted corners. although the photo reveals the handled spots, you really can't judge once the glass bezel is on location. once again, I'M THRILLED :) :spaceace:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3613/3470534949_9db4bb9f55_b.jpg)
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in order to protect the glass bezel from the control panel (which overlaps for about one centimeter), i bought the following stuff (normally used for window insulation - and for making cats happy ;)):
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3606/3470536003_929319ec37_b.jpg)
two rows of the insulation material should be enough!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3565/3471350358_4ee227b0ce_b.jpg)
the control panel and the glass bezel together in perfect harmony :-* need i say more?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3624/3470675491_8a1da0b721_b.jpg)
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Woooww !!!
Perfect!!! :spaceace: :spaceace: It's like new now :-* :-*
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i can't believe it, this is really coming to a close :'( as the captain of a famous starship once said: all good things must come to an end ...
one of the last things i always do when the restoration of a cab is "imminent" is create a key ring (or to be more precise: two. one for the front, one for the back) :arrow:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3398/3479323639_379226151a_b.jpg)
up next: some shots of the cabinet in its (almost) completed form
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3348/3479324403_bdba33c2f6_b.jpg)
remember how this looked in the beginning? now and then ...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3537/3480152244_af5d601e32.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/3480131250_074faaf287.jpg)
inside - truxton ii is gone, pleiads is back where it belongs!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3267/3480131596_1371aef9cc_b.jpg)
full frontal nudity ;)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3613/3479324651_7aa16e8501_b.jpg)
finally, in action :spaceace:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3549/3479323463_9bc5aa1d6c_b.jpg)
there are some minor things i want to do like convert the coin door to accepting tokens (if i only knew how ???) and lighting up the coin door labels, but THIS PROJECT IS OFFICIALLY DONE !!!
i want to thank each and every one of you guys on this board for all your support, your nice comments and your endurance / patience for following this thread to the end. THANK YOU!!! :-*
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FANTASTIC!
That was great to follow along. I love the before and after pics - truly a gorgeous job!
Thanks for sharing.
Steve
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Once again... CONGRATULATION !!! You did it !!
This post is a great example of hard work, a lot of patience & motivation :)
Many thanks for sharing with us :-*
One thing is still missing... a youtube video ::) :P
Now let's start a hi-score contest on that game ?
...but wait! Please don't use the WARP button, or you'll have a big advantage on me ;) ;D ;D ;D
~Enjoy your game now~
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Fantastic job ! (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/respect.gif) (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/respect.gif) (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/respect.gif)
I really enjoyed reading the full progress,
starting by visiting a very nice landscape, love the waterfalls ! really beautifull. :-*
amazing job what you did with the "bezelfix", thats really a magic product to fix the glass! :o
also i saw that you use Bosh Powertools, I love Bosh as powertools! :P, here in the netherlands this is one of the better label of powertools IMHO.
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there are some minor things i want to do like convert the coin door to accepting tokens (if i only knew how ???) and lighting up the coin door labels, but THIS PROJECT IS OFFICIALLY DONE !!!
An option is to use "universal" coin mechs, which are basically just pass-thru for any coins you'll want to throw in. They are shaped like regular coin mechs, but without any stops for coins.
Regarding coin door lights, the Hantarex US 300 has a separate supply for them, check its manual.
Matteo
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An option is to use "universal" coin mechs, which are basically just pass-thru for any coins you'll want to throw in. They are shaped like regular coin mechs, but without any stops for coins.
that would mean i'd have to replace all the coins mechs - and that again would mean i'd have to invest some serious money :(
Regarding coin door lights, the Hantarex US 300 has a separate supply for them, check its manual.
yeah, i had already seen that while dealing with the power transformator earlier. the problem is to find some kind of "clipping" for the door lights to attach to the coin mech.
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almost three years after i had finished my first arcade restoration ever, i have returned to my pleiads cab for some left-overs. i'll give you an update on that shortly, but while doing some preparation work i also revisited bruno's restoration thread and realized something which i had totally missed the first time around!
my midway logo coin door plate ...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/7003952029_c177f4794a_c_d.jpg)
... is missing the irecsa logo (and the writing underneath) that bruno's coin door plate has! :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/pleiads/pleiads-metal-10.jpg)
looks like the cab that pieter "gyruss" picked up just recently (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2812.0) (and which has been forwarded to michael "muerto" in the meantime) also has the irecsa logo on the coin door plate. difficult to spot on the picture, but it definitely is there :arrow:
(http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/3457/imag3938.jpg)
@bruno: is that only a stickers on top of the original plate or is it printed on the plate together with the midway stuff? i would really really like to look my plate exactly like that, therefore my question if you could get me either a straight-on hi-res shot of that logo plate OR (even better) a scan of the entire plate. i know it's a lot asked for such a minor detail, but you should know by now how i tick ... :P
@all: what i still don't get: what is the connection between midway and centuri / irecsa?
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i dont know, but i feel another question comming after the pic / scan is received... :D :D :D
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Wow, this is very nice, thank you so much for this great restoration. :)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3348/3479324403_bdba33c2f6_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3537/3480152244_af5d601e32.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/3480131250_074faaf287.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3613/3479324651_7aa16e8501_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3549/3479323463_9bc5aa1d6c_b.jpg)
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agreed, love the art, so did you buy it Erik?
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i wonder why erik is posting that now ... :P
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Well, let's just say that I only want to see Ully's superduper restoriation skills live. Each time when I want to. ;D
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Yeah, right. You bought it.
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:) great cabinet Erik, if mine didn't have the top cut off i would still have it.
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Yeah, right. You bought it.
Hell yeah! I couldn't resist. :lol: it's a great game and a nice looking cabinet. And i look at it as an investment.
Now I will have to expand the Gameroom ;D
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Thats one of mt favorite Superully resto's, love how he fixed that bezel!
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Beautiful cabinet and a great game :-*
Have fun with it!! :)
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LOL, I knew it, even though I didnt know it....that was the second time yesterday CKONG :D
Gotta sell that motorbike now :)
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LOL, I knew it, even though I didnt know it....that was the second time yesterday CKONG :D
Yep, you should change jobs. :) Be a professional mindreader. ;)
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I had a very nice EADS day yesterday, brought some stuff to Ully and collected this one:
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f307/ckong65/P1050918_zpsd01df87b.jpg) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/ckong65/media/P1050918_zpsd01df87b.jpg.html)
I packed it in Ully's apartment, which was a good idea knowing how the game hat to be moved outside. Quite a story. And there was some severe damage during the transport to a cabinet, not mine fortunately! LOL
On a sidenote, I drove 960 km's yesterday, of which about 880 km's on the infamous German Autobahn! But it was no pleasure at all, I am convinced that the German Wirtschaftswunder (economical prospherity) is only caused by all the money spent on road works, keeping people at work. I have been in more then 20 road construction sites!!! With all the traffic jams with it!!! No, I am not joking, driving in Germany is no fun at all.
But thanks Ully for your hospitality and of course also for this great game. It was a pleasure meeting you. :) Oh, and you should really visit that Döner shop twice a week or so, it was the best Döner kebab that I ever had. ;D ;D
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Mmmm, I remember you once suggested to drive up to a town to the east of Munich for a weekend.....I suggested to fly instead.....now you know why ;););)
Great catch !
It was funny, I was in your area last weekend and you were away near my place (Nozomi, spotted you on a picture LOL) and Germany... ;D
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glad that you made it home safely, erik! it was a lot of fun having you over here and the transport of the pleiads cab down the stairs was EXTREMELY exhausting. i'll be posting my "roadtrip report" later with a few (blurred) pictures. thx to you and patrick for making everything possible!!!
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Well, unfortunately I have to sell some games from my collection and Pleiads is one of them. I listed the game on Marktplaats. ::)
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Pm send