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Author Topic: After burner dlx (pic heavy)  (Read 32890 times)
caincan
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« Reply #15 on: September 15, 2012, 06:05:24 PM »

yep the old wheels are plastic... Roll Eyes.   mine moves much more easily from this total change of 4 wheels.

the triacs are   MAC224A10 .  you can get from ebay.usa for about 40$ for 10 .   months ago someone in ebay.usa was selling  the "triacs" power unit.  for ~25$.. but he wanted too to sell the wheel which goes for the mechanism rotation..  the weight seemed a knightmare to send to europe   roll eyes

but... there are two different rows produced for the Triacs unit... some older or newer production runs for the game (or perhaps  Afterburner 1  before Afterburner2 ?) , have different setups for this part..   (i compared, because my pal has the other version)
« Last Edit: September 15, 2012, 06:08:48 PM by caincan » Logged
spigs838
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« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2012, 11:06:01 PM »

Did you ever get the manual for this?  How s your progress on it.  I have the same age and I am working on my motor issues right now.  I think it is partly my triac board.  Mine is a different look than yours for the triac board.  I do know where you can get ahold of a new drive board.  The one that connects to the triac board.  Let me know your progress.  I have the manual in a PDF also.  The full manual, schematic and service manual.  There is a link for it I can send you. 

Mike
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caincan
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« Reply #17 on: October 30, 2012, 06:37:46 PM »

hard to tell at this point.   my pal has made it back to life !     psu shortcircuit blown : the 220v cable !,  the screen + the 5 volts +we guess  the "breakers".

it starts again. but even if it runs in tests in 4 directions !!   the game corrupts on startup and so it cannot move.  i ordered a bunch of 10 triacs from usa  (i wait..).  and i will go to electronic local shop at next holidays (i live ~2hrs distance from the arcade warehouse for our games..)   with the "5k" ohms which drive the directions.  because i cannot see what kind of model it is.   only a number "76" is labelled in it ?!

yep i printed all the scans/pdf manuals i could on the net.    i hope it comes from the triacs.   many americans on "klov" say about it,     but is it "urban legend" ?   .  ...do they really repair the game ?   as i dont see any information about the 5kohm pots  precision too .. i have some doubt

good thing to have a AB upright,  i have myself too.  i took her motherboard..  my DX was without it too..

for a long while we thought that there were 3 different motherboards (visuals were kind of non 100% match);,   for each dedicated game.  luckily  even the AB upright has the "DX" version in the tests !!  Wink

  i salvaged already a small "5VDC part"  and the monitor i guess later,   i have too a problem with the "missiles" button,   disconnected the wires , and i was lost.. something went wrong,    i went to check the AB upright to redo it..   (nothing on internet about the connectivity,   only schematics which are terrible to read or understand)   

.. (i tried using a scaler cga to vga  with a 19" tft screen,  but colours are weird in white tones..)

so at this point i have something "BAD" about left/right test, ...  only one time it passed thru...and i could play.. but with only up/right axis movement...

if triacs change, and 5kohm pots change  dont solve the problem, i'll be stuck without understanding more i guess...




« Last Edit: October 30, 2012, 06:51:02 PM by caincan » Logged
spigs838
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« Reply #18 on: October 30, 2012, 11:02:53 PM »

I can't even get mine to move my motors.  There is something tripping the breaker when I first turn it on.  When I unhook the triac and drive board it boots up and I can play the game.  Did you test the triacs at T1and T2 like  it says in the service manual?  Only one of mine had connectivity.  The rest were an open circuit.  I am stuck on mine also.  I bought my replacement pots in the states at "RadioShack".  Not sure if you even have them there for you.  The only problem is the shaft on the pot are longer than the originals.  Ah ideas what would be making mine trip the breaker when I test motors?

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caincan
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« Reply #19 on: October 31, 2012, 10:54:35 PM »

i got the triacs when i got home today  (usa-france could be a hazardous delay in weeks with USPS postal,  it went fast..).. as i need key for the warehouse from my pal,   i hope redo solders before sunday.  (i only go home 1-2/month ,  damn job far away Evil )

 Exclamation you mean  without the triacs board,  the game runs good ? (except motors i guess so  Tongue )

for the pots,  what were the specific informations  radioshack told you ?    is there a 180,270,320,360 angle ?!..     could a  10kohms pot do the job  without amplyfiing too much and forcing the axis ?  (these bad metal noises when it's over the limit switch test..)

the breakers have some modern similar replacements (at 8A or 10A) for ~3$/piece !   the originals cost a lot !!  about 40$ for one in 8A !

the limit switchs (Omron D4MC-2020    /A300  0.5A  125VDC / 0.25A  250VDC )  (.. i didnt find a replacement at cheap price,   the original cost about 25$/pc..  (i wanted to change them too..  even if they seem ok by multimeter test continuity)

the very first time i had the seat going right and one breaker did his job.   but that was the only time !  .. i read this type of error twice on klov forum.  every answer was same urban legend..  "check triacs, change them".

something reminds me... even if my pal changed the Five breakers  (3 outside /2 near the psu's).   last time i wanted start.  it went 2 times quickly off because one breaker activated..   i moved straight away at start in the test mode.. and it did not came off  Huh? Huh?

my triacs seemed ok.. but depends on the multimeter where i put the connectors sometimes it beeps or not for T1/T2 test  Roll Eyes
« Last Edit: October 31, 2012, 11:25:58 PM by caincan » Logged
spigs838
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« Reply #20 on: November 01, 2012, 03:44:13 AM »

Yeah if they the board is unhooked it will load up.  I think it is overloading when they are hooked up and trying to go throught the start up test.  I am trying to finds out why it seems to short out when I go to test mode in the menu once it is booted up.   With the board unhooked and the notors unhooked if I test with the trigger like I was testing a motor.  It draws a lot of power and dims and then will trip the main breaker if I keep doing it.  Can not figure out why.

As for the Pot.  I just brought it in to radio shack and they had a 5K pot there but hte shaft was longet than the original.  I replaced all of mine with hit and it seemed to be fine.  It does work for the throttle, but not sure for the others.  I replaced them but still having the issues so I can not test them yet.  When I first started I had side to side movement, then I replaced my up\down motor.  It then went to the right and would not stop until it tripped the breaker in start up.  Then it stopped doing it tripped the breaker on start up.  Not sure why I keep getting this issue.  Now I think it is the triac board.  I have triacs and I have read that I should try the snubbers or film capacitors also on that board.  I have some posts going on KLOV.  You can see my traic board and the part I am talking about.  The only goof thing is I can play the game, just no motion.  ANy thoughts on why it keeps tripping the breaker?  LEt me know what happens with the Triacs on yours.  I need to get better at soldering so I do not destroy the board.
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Level42
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« Reply #21 on: November 01, 2012, 06:55:58 AM »

Regretfully this video is blocked in this country because it has contents of "Studio Canal"...
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caincan
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« Reply #22 on: November 01, 2012, 01:02:59 PM »

I do know where you can get ahold of a new drive board.  The one that connects to the triac board. 

i hope doing my solders tomorrow..

what is in picture  this "drive board" ?!   i figured it was the triacs board ..

perhaps there is the fault.

did you check your voltages on the 2 psu ?    there are many 80V around.   my pal said mine were okay.

the fact is lack of lots of time to test multiple issues.  my pal has a working DX machine (the old generation with bigger triacs board).  but in case something crashes, we dont use his working parts...
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spigs838
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« Reply #23 on: November 01, 2012, 09:12:27 PM »

The pic is of the triac board.  I know the drive board can also have some issues.  Mine seems fine.  it connects the small connector from the triac board to the board standing up sideways next to the power supply.  When testing I do need to replace the triacs and snubbers.  I will just do all 4 of the triacs and snubbers.  Just need to figure out if I am going to solder myself of have someone else do it.
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polderarcade
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« Reply #24 on: November 01, 2012, 11:17:46 PM »

Time for an update on this project

Caincan thanks for the triac info
Love reading it ,I hopefor you it works out oke.
For me I am not even close of thinking of the electronic part.

Quote
Did you ever get the manual for this?
 

Yes as a surprise when opening the speaker cover on top of the game I found the original manual and schematics and even better.
Spare :
Motor brushres
springs for controller
a pot meter
some rings and bolts



Quote
I do know where you can get ahold of a new drive board

That would be great love to have a spare one

Last pics of my game

Bolt that was stuck in a nut



Replaced the nut




Got myself some wheel supports created because the corners where bend






Started painting the game







now need to paint the insite




For the moment I need the wait for new wheel brackets the original wheels wear the cabin is rolling on are broken ,but I had some problems finding the good ones local .
Decided to go the easy way found some wheels local a little bit bigger.
So we go the easy way cutting of the old brackets and welding on the new ones Grin

Old


Cut of waiting for new






Some progress on the motor and gearbox  cleaning


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caincan
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« Reply #25 on: November 02, 2012, 05:59:58 PM »

painting would be my last job i hope for AB deluxe.  Grin

well tomorrow the test... i was able today to solder triacs.   i was surprised to see the thin 3 solder points for the triacs  !  (  Tongue the older ones confused me !  there were much larger  (BTA 26-600B  8614)   so the solders were somewhat big & atrocious)

and had some problems to fix the 5k ohms,  that's not the exact piece replacement i could get  Undecided...   all went ok i hope,  1/2hour ago..   but i dont have permanent access to my pal's warehouse about 1/2h drive from here,  so tomorrow launching or crashing..
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caincan
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« Reply #26 on: November 03, 2012, 05:54:23 PM »

so i replaced triacs & 5kohms with some dremel work..

result is worse  Roll Eyes.  i'm back with your problem now Huh?.  at start the motor behind the back is overheating directly as stuck ?!  , so the breaker (8A) activates itself  each time...      previous times before changing triacs/5kohms,  i nearly always had  the up/down movement test...
now for this,  nothing runs more and the breaker still goes on.   i tried move manually at the start the cabinet by pulling force in it. that doesnt change.        only one time i had "good/good" for left/right initialization... but the seat didnt move.  and the other times.. it moves...(in tests only !)

my progress are so lost.   if you have access to NOS "drive board",  can you tell me more about it, price & shipping (europe/france..)  ?   i dont know how to progress/test without a new one.    the only exception is next month that i refill totally the triacs boards and change every component on it  (not so difficult)  to see if something goes good.  


















« Last Edit: November 03, 2012, 06:08:13 PM by caincan » Logged
spigs838
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« Reply #27 on: November 04, 2012, 04:13:59 AM »

I was wondering how difficult it was to open up the gear box on the motors and clean it out.  Also were you able to test the bearings or the gear at all.  thanks
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caincan
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« Reply #28 on: November 04, 2012, 10:52:32 AM »

we had some difficulty to extract the motor unit. my dad which has some experience on cars  checked the "outside" and it seemed ok to him..  (but we couldnt extract the motor under the seat,  too difficult at that time).    from this problem he suggests it's a voltage issue
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caincan
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« Reply #29 on: November 14, 2012, 09:32:44 PM »

well few days left for few holidays   Cry.. tomorrow i will change again the 5kohm for up/down with the older one.  i'm not totally trusting the seller,  young and made some judgement errors in the past.   will go to the elder technician which is more good old shop too,  for the whole parts of the triacs boards to solder them...

my pal has paid another gameboard,  the first which works !   he had one dead on arrival.. and a spare one from a thunderblade board.

__
other subject of matter about triacs boards  and the tiny "TLP511GA",    translation is somewhat fuzzy.. Undecided

http://community.arcadeinfo.de/showthread.php?11505-Sega-After-Burner&s=e5b89929f2979ab4cd487de616cf6878
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