Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: polderarcade on September 08, 2012, 11:55:50 PM
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Oke i think this one deserves its own topic, it will be a long term restoration.
Whit an event like eurocade you can get motivated to start at the arcade
Oke lets step back to 2010:
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC02082.jpg)
Pick up two big boys
Afterburner and g-loc
The g-loc left the building to the scrap yard because it was beyond saving :-[ only leftover parts are stored in the basement(moving part’s, board ,wiring and some other stuff)
But now its time for the game this topic will be al about
After burner dlx I will try to keep you guys updated
First step taking of al the parts that are put on the game whiteout bolts for storage:
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03374.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03375.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03376.jpg)
When I god the game one of the motors was disassembled so I was afraid it was end working any more ,bud whit a test at work powering the motor it was turning oke so that is a good part. :)
Then it was time to clean the gear box(need to say it was the first time working on a video game my hand are covert in oil)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03382.jpg)
Lets pull the electronics:
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03379.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03380.jpg)
Missing board set located in my upright
Closer look at the pcb
Motor driver board needs some work:
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03390.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03383.jpg)
Don’t know where this one is for ???
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03389.jpg)
Here is the motor located does end look really nice
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03392.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03391.jpg)
Second motor for left an right movement stil in the game
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03393.jpg)
Disassembled
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03397.jpg)
Needs some cleaning work
I hoop to leaf the game in one piece bud found out that the wheels where the cockpit is rolling on are not in a great condition and needed to bee replaced
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03400.jpg)
So now I need to build a lifting system to pull the cockpit from the base.
First goal is getting the motor parts and rolling parts clean, put it back together and then start the electronic part’s
If somebody can help me whit something let me know looking for:
Afterburner dlx manual and electronics schedule (if someone can sent /point me to a scan also would be great)
Afterburner main board set
Al the other after burner dlx board’s love to have some as spare part
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If you bring this working to Eurocade 2013 I'm buying you an extra beer.....or two ! ;);) :spaceace:
Manuals and docs:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Manuals_and_Schematics/
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Fantastic! a HUGE job lays ahead of you for sure!
I had the opportunity to by one when i started to collect, but i didnt have the space at that time :-[ (It was working and dirt cheap!)
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Thats a hardcore resto in front of you, but when you're playing it later and its moving, it will be worth all the trouble !
(http://fc06.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2010/230/c/9/Pilot_Salute_pencils_by_ashigaru.jpg)
Goodluck bart !
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woaaah bart, this looks like an incredible amount of work, BUT the end result will be totally worth all those efforts. good luck, i'll follow this closely!!!
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Yeah, this will be a real hardcore restoration, but the end result will worth every minute you put in this. ;)
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:ghost: real nasty hardcore is more appropriate... very few information about saving AB DLX so far... there are so many possible problems . and when someone has the luck to have it functional he doesnt try to touch it anymore...
"Triacs" have bad reputation in years (your picture with rusty chips). you'll certainly have this problem. there are too problems with the "dead end course" of switchs tests for rotation... (that was my problem :?)
my AB DLX is dead at this moment... i dont know what occured, something blew out in the psu part?... never found answer anywhere about this.. there are too specific pieces behind the fuses. and they cost an arm to find/replace !! seems only in japan available some "on/off" protection surge when the rotation runs bad. you cannot dismantle it easily it breaks in parts :evil: . ::). KLOV forum seems your only hope. there are some threads (mainly about Triacs problems..)
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AB DX is awesome! Highly interesting topic to follow! :)
No more G-Loc parts available by any chance?
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:) that reminded me about these G-loc problems... in years too, it seems that no one found the answer about these faulty mechanisms...
good technicians said these Sega are evil to repair/maintain
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And it’s update time
If you bring this working to Eurocade 2013 I'm buying you an extra beer.....or two !
Manuals and docs
If you guys help with loading (350 kg)than I will bring it(if running)
Thanks for the link very useful information in the manual
"Triacs" have bad reputation in years (your picture with rusty chips). you'll certainly have this problem. there are too problems with the "dead end course" of switches tests for rotation... (that was my problem)
No problem whit the triacs (there just complete missing) can you help me witch type are the 4 smal triacs?
But to make the project a bit easier for me, first focus on the easy painting en meganical restoration
First done is cleaning one of the gear boxes
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03401.jpg)
Before:
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03382.jpg)
After:
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03402.jpg)
Looks much better, condition of the bearings is oke so thy don’t have to be replaced
Next thing I notes when cleaning that the image in front of the cap is real easy to wipe of , so I decided to put a coat of clear coat on it.
A bit more shiny than original but it protects the image that is more in portend to me
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03408.jpg)
Next step the top of the game needs to be separated from the bottom
Found a nice spot for it only the projector needs to go:
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03412.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03413.jpg)
Next the afterburner is flying again ;D :
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03414.jpg)
Didn’t go al according to plan
One of the bolds the head broke of because it was stuck in the nut and the nuts are welded stuck to the frame.
Need to use some violence to get it out :-\
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03419.jpg)
Need to grind the old nut of the frame and weld a new one on it easy fix
Also the monitor has some problems I think :?
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03403.jpg)
Next steps will be cleaning and fixing the bottom part of the game find some wheels, and fix the wheels where the complete machine rolls on
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03420.jpg)
First steps of paint work:
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03418.jpg)
@ bruno g-loc part’s
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03404.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03406.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03405.jpg)
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nice job on the gear box! what did you use to get it that clean? the red stuff in the plastic cup - or is that simply tea? :P
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Diesel fuel (the red stuff)
Great stuff to clean greased stuff always use it to clean my bike chains but also works on gearboxes ;D
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Just for information, it is well known that the castor wheels Sega used for these DLX beasts were badly underrated for the weight. When replacing, do not replace like for like, go for a much higher rated and stronger castor.
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Too bad about the neck of the tube ! What monitor is in there ? What resolution ?
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Afterburner deluxe in action in T2, check this video at 1.01 and at 1.26 min. ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X74PvB0aBNY
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yep the old wheels are plastic... ::). mine moves much more easily from this total change of 4 wheels.
the triacs are MAC224A10 . you can get from ebay.usa for about 40$ for 10 . months ago someone in ebay.usa was selling the "triacs" power unit. for ~25$.. but he wanted too to sell the wheel which goes for the mechanism rotation.. the weight seemed a knightmare to send to europe :roll:
but... there are two different rows produced for the Triacs unit... some older or newer production runs for the game (or perhaps Afterburner 1 before Afterburner2 ?) , have different setups for this part.. (i compared, because my pal has the other version)
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Did you ever get the manual for this? How s your progress on it. I have the same age and I am working on my motor issues right now. I think it is partly my triac board. Mine is a different look than yours for the triac board. I do know where you can get ahold of a new drive board. The one that connects to the triac board. Let me know your progress. I have the manual in a PDF also. The full manual, schematic and service manual. There is a link for it I can send you.
Mike
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hard to tell at this point. my pal has made it back to life ! psu shortcircuit blown : the 220v cable !, the screen + the 5 volts +we guess the "breakers".
it starts again. but even if it runs in tests in 4 directions !! the game corrupts on startup and so it cannot move. i ordered a bunch of 10 triacs from usa (i wait..). and i will go to electronic local shop at next holidays (i live ~2hrs distance from the arcade warehouse for our games..) with the "5k" ohms which drive the directions. because i cannot see what kind of model it is. only a number "76" is labelled in it ?!
yep i printed all the scans/pdf manuals i could on the net. i hope it comes from the triacs. many americans on "klov" say about it, but is it "urban legend" ? . ...do they really repair the game ? as i dont see any information about the 5kohm pots precision too .. i have some doubt
good thing to have a AB upright, i have myself too. i took her motherboard.. my DX was without it too..
for a long while we thought that there were 3 different motherboards (visuals were kind of non 100% match);, for each dedicated game. luckily even the AB upright has the "DX" version in the tests !! ;)
i salvaged already a small "5VDC part" and the monitor i guess later, i have too a problem with the "missiles" button, disconnected the wires , and i was lost.. something went wrong, i went to check the AB upright to redo it.. (nothing on internet about the connectivity, only schematics which are terrible to read or understand)
.. (i tried using a scaler cga to vga with a 19" tft screen, but colours are weird in white tones..)
so at this point i have something "BAD" about left/right test, ... only one time it passed thru...and i could play.. but with only up/right axis movement...
if triacs change, and 5kohm pots change dont solve the problem, i'll be stuck without understanding more i guess...
(http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics_gamoovernet690px/20121021232919-fiend41-IMG0440A-ab10.jpg)
(http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics_gamoovernet690px/20121021232952-fiend41-IMG0417A-ab05.jpg)
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I can't even get mine to move my motors. There is something tripping the breaker when I first turn it on. When I unhook the triac and drive board it boots up and I can play the game. Did you test the triacs at T1and T2 like it says in the service manual? Only one of mine had connectivity. The rest were an open circuit. I am stuck on mine also. I bought my replacement pots in the states at "RadioShack". Not sure if you even have them there for you. The only problem is the shaft on the pot are longer than the originals. Ah ideas what would be making mine trip the breaker when I test motors?
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i got the triacs when i got home today (usa-france could be a hazardous delay in weeks with USPS postal, it went fast..).. as i need key for the warehouse from my pal, i hope redo solders before sunday. (i only go home 1-2/month , damn job far away :evil: )
:!: you mean without the triacs board, the game runs good ? (except motors i guess so :P )
for the pots, what were the specific informations radioshack told you ? is there a 180,270,320,360 ° angle ?!.. could a 10kohms pot do the job without amplyfiing too much and forcing the axis ? (these bad metal noises when it's over the limit switch test..)
the breakers have some modern similar replacements (at 8A or 10A) for ~3$/piece ! the originals cost a lot !! about 40$ for one in 8A !
the limit switchs (Omron D4MC-2020 /A300 0.5A 125VDC / 0.25A 250VDC ) (.. i didnt find a replacement at cheap price, the original cost about 25$/pc.. (i wanted to change them too.. even if they seem ok by multimeter test continuity)
the very first time i had the seat going right and one breaker did his job. but that was the only time ! .. i read this type of error twice on klov forum. every answer was same urban legend.. "check triacs, change them".
something reminds me... even if my pal changed the Five breakers (3 outside /2 near the psu's). last time i wanted start. it went 2 times quickly off because one breaker activated.. i moved straight away at start in the test mode.. and it did not came off ??? ???
my triacs seemed ok.. but depends on the multimeter where i put the connectors sometimes it beeps or not for T1/T2 test ::)
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Yeah if they the board is unhooked it will load up. I think it is overloading when they are hooked up and trying to go throught the start up test. I am trying to finds out why it seems to short out when I go to test mode in the menu once it is booted up. With the board unhooked and the notors unhooked if I test with the trigger like I was testing a motor. It draws a lot of power and dims and then will trip the main breaker if I keep doing it. Can not figure out why.
As for the Pot. I just brought it in to radio shack and they had a 5K pot there but hte shaft was longet than the original. I replaced all of mine with hit and it seemed to be fine. It does work for the throttle, but not sure for the others. I replaced them but still having the issues so I can not test them yet. When I first started I had side to side movement, then I replaced my up\down motor. It then went to the right and would not stop until it tripped the breaker in start up. Then it stopped doing it tripped the breaker on start up. Not sure why I keep getting this issue. Now I think it is the triac board. I have triacs and I have read that I should try the snubbers or film capacitors also on that board. I have some posts going on KLOV. You can see my traic board and the part I am talking about. The only goof thing is I can play the game, just no motion. ANy thoughts on why it keeps tripping the breaker? LEt me know what happens with the Triacs on yours. I need to get better at soldering so I do not destroy the board.
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Regretfully this video is blocked in this country because it has contents of "Studio Canal"...
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I do know where you can get ahold of a new drive board. The one that connects to the triac board.
i hope doing my solders tomorrow..
what is in picture this "drive board" ?! i figured it was the triacs board ..
perhaps there is the fault.
did you check your voltages on the 2 psu ? there are many 80V around. my pal said mine were okay.
the fact is lack of lots of time to test multiple issues. my pal has a working DX machine (the old generation with bigger triacs board). but in case something crashes, we dont use his working parts...
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The pic is of the triac board. I know the drive board can also have some issues. Mine seems fine. it connects the small connector from the triac board to the board standing up sideways next to the power supply. When testing I do need to replace the triacs and snubbers. I will just do all 4 of the triacs and snubbers. Just need to figure out if I am going to solder myself of have someone else do it.
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Time for an update on this project
Caincan thanks for the triac info
Love reading it ,I hopefor you it works out oke.
For me I am not even close of thinking of the electronic part.
Did you ever get the manual for this?
Yes as a surprise when opening the speaker cover on top of the game I found the original manual and schematics and even better.
Spare :
Motor brushres
springs for controller
a pot meter
some rings and bolts
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03453.jpg)
I do know where you can get ahold of a new drive board
That would be great love to have a spare one
Last pics of my game
Bolt that was stuck in a nut
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03419.jpg)
Replaced the nut
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03464.jpg)
Got myself some wheel supports created because the corners where bend
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03458.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03472.jpg)
Started painting the game
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03471.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03470.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03461.jpg)
now need to paint the insite
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03488.jpg)
For the moment I need the wait for new wheel brackets the original wheels wear the cabin is rolling on are broken ,but I had some problems finding the good ones local .
Decided to go the easy way found some wheels local a little bit bigger.
So we go the easy way cutting of the old brackets and welding on the new ones ;D
Old
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03482.jpg)
Cut of waiting for new
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03481.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03483.jpg)
Some progress on the motor and gearbox cleaning
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03469.jpg)
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painting would be my last job i hope for AB deluxe. ;D
well tomorrow the test... i was able today to solder triacs. i was surprised to see the thin 3 solder points for the triacs ! ( :P the older ones confused me ! there were much larger (BTA 26-600B 8614) so the solders were somewhat big & atrocious)
and had some problems to fix the 5k ohms, that's not the exact piece replacement i could get :-\... all went ok i hope, 1/2hour ago.. but i dont have permanent access to my pal's warehouse about 1/2h drive from here, so tomorrow launching or crashing..
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so i replaced triacs & 5kohms with some dremel work..
result is worse ::). i'm back with your problem now ???. at start the motor behind the back is overheating directly as stuck ?! , so the breaker (8A) activates itself each time... previous times before changing triacs/5kohms, i nearly always had the up/down movement test...
now for this, nothing runs more and the breaker still goes on. i tried move manually at the start the cabinet by pulling force in it. that doesnt change. only one time i had "good/good" for left/right initialization... but the seat didnt move. and the other times.. it moves...(in tests only !)
my progress are so lost. if you have access to NOS "drive board", can you tell me more about it, price & shipping (europe/france..) ? i dont know how to progress/test without a new one. the only exception is next month that i refill totally the triacs boards and change every component on it (not so difficult) to see if something goes good.
(http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics_gamoovernet690px/20121103172149-fiend41-IMG0451A-avant.jpg) (http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics/20121103172149-fiend41-IMG0451A-avant.jpg)
(http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics_gamoovernet690px/20121103172214-fiend41-IMG0456A-avant2.jpg) (http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics/20121103172214-fiend41-IMG0456A-avant2.jpg)
(http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics_gamoovernet690px/20121103172235-fiend41-IMG0453A-apres1.jpg) (http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics/20121103172235-fiend41-IMG0453A-apres1.jpg)
(http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics_gamoovernet690px/20121103172257-fiend41-IMG0458A-apres2.jpg) (http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics/20121103172257-fiend41-IMG0458A-apres2.jpg)
(http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics_gamoovernet690px/20121103172315-fiend41-IMG0459A-apres3.jpg) (http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics/20121103172315-fiend41-IMG0459A-apres3.jpg)
(http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics_gamoovernet690px/20121103172339-fiend41-IMG0460A-apres4.jpg) (http://gamoovernet.pixhotel.fr/pics/20121103172339-fiend41-IMG0460A-apres4.jpg)
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I was wondering how difficult it was to open up the gear box on the motors and clean it out. Also were you able to test the bearings or the gear at all. thanks
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we had some difficulty to extract the motor unit. my dad which has some experience on cars checked the "outside" and it seemed ok to him.. (but we couldnt extract the motor under the seat, too difficult at that time). from this problem he suggests it's a voltage issue
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well few days left for few holidays :'(.. tomorrow i will change again the 5kohm for up/down with the older one. i'm not totally trusting the seller, young and made some judgement errors in the past. will go to the elder technician which is more good old shop too, for the whole parts of the triacs boards to solder them...
my pal has paid another gameboard, the first which works ! he had one dead on arrival.. and a spare one from a thunderblade board.
__
other subject of matter about triacs boards and the tiny "TLP511GA", translation is somewhat fuzzy.. :-\
http://community.arcadeinfo.de/showthread.php?11505-Sega-After-Burner&s=e5b89929f2979ab4cd487de616cf6878
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Are you trying to find those chips? I can get them around me if they still have them. I purchased them for $6.50 each US. I also found those black film capacitors or snubbers, but it looks like I will have to buy 100 of them if I want the exact panasonic part. They are being discontinued and very hard to find. 100 is the smallest amount I can get. I may just get them and see if anyone else needs them. ;D
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went to the electronician elder shop. he got me all the necessary things.. but except the tlp511ga... must order them on ebay china i guess later (~1,5€ piece + 3,20€ shipping quote, will be ~10€ for the package)..
forgot to take them from him :(.. on the road i got the "black snubbers" elsewhere shop in suburbs, there are not so large from the modern versions, it's not so necessary did he say, it's kind of anti-parasites filter. was around ~5€ for 4.
had hard times this afternoon to replace all the capacitors/resistors :( :P bad desolder problems, had to drill with care for the old holes.. and i dont know yet for the 8 "bigger" resistors, there were 2 kinds.. i didnt ask clearly him.. so i have a 50/50% luck to solder the good 2 kind of newer ones.... ::). did apply iron coat solder to all that i could resolder/refresh... including an iron coat to the old tlp511ga..
tomorrow will see if anything gets better or worse.... then try check the voltage information of the biggers resistors and compare with my new ones before resolder.. that makes some further tests/chances.. again.. :ghost:
(remember someone told that in just changing the 4 resistors near the connector.. all went ok again.. weird but.. well weird hell sega..
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Can you tell me what snubbers or resistors you bought and if they end up working? That's what I'm trying to find for mine.
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so..with multimeter i tested the old ones.. and got the intel of what was the correct transistor to replace... took times..and some go/back trips , that seriously hits the motivation when you forget something and must go back find it..
started but, i had a short circuit directly :-[ with a breaker activation directly, not even a motor noise. something is faulty or more on one of the solders i guess.. need to re-re-check again. i figured it would be a resistor, 1 on 8 seems having a problem.. but desoldered and it was good.. there's some continuity problem somewhere. and without the triacs boards the machine started ok. my pal will look again for traces and continuity..
i would really wish seeing the backside of a triacs boards (the 2nd generation.) .. mine is so full of iron melted traces.. :(
___
tried to take a picture but it's full of informations...and no "macro" mode on my phone/apn so it's much blurry..
will list in few days or tomorrow maybe when i can get back the triacs boards..
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so..my pal checked the solders. apparently the motor big noise from the debut blocked.. it caused 2 triacs to die... weird.. because before i changed the resistors it went ok for that..
:!: i thought about what you said. and rechecked on manual, it's contrary !! if T1 & T2 have continuity , the triac is damaged !! so you have only 1 triac ko for your part.
so...did another start. and it's still a direct short circuit :-\
the snubbers (but as nothing works..) so cannot say if it's good or not replacement. but the elder technician sold me the good measurements resistors..
loads of intel on it.. from up to down
ENEC CQC 1283 310-
IEC 60384-14 1414 250-
AV R-46 MKP X2 SH
+1 ùF 275vac
40/110/56 C S B8
____
i will order on ebay.china for the 4 tp511ga for next month..
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I will try to take a picture of both of mine and post it. Still working on those snubbers. I can find the exact part but I need to order 100 of them. May just do it and get the right ones!! Will let you know when I do and get it done.
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Here are some pics for my triac boards. It looks as though there has been a little work done on these also. I also ordered the correct snubbers for the board. I had to order 100 of them.
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Here is the other!
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well mine too has numerous big traces of iron work, seems your triacs have been changed some times..
i have little time to comment, but i figure my triacs card cannot be the problem. i had so weiiiiird problems since i changed the tlp511. totally "poltergeist" it became :evil:. this must come from something other or i dont know.
before i changed anything. the tests in up/right/down/left were ALL ok ! since it became total frenzy.. i lost 2 other triacs from the recent change ! but .. not the previous ones i changed. it's hell :evil:
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I am going to try and clean up the boards and see what I can do to solder them. Will let you know when that happens. I feel your pain!!,
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I was thinking about getting one, how small can you break it down If you want to move it in though a door? Also need to figure out how to get it here in my tiny truck.
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Oke after a long time of silence it’s time to come back in the world of arcade.
Needed some time out everything was going wrong.
Bud in the Christmas holidays spent a lot of time in the arcade moving around cabs and rebuilding the arcade ,I found back the fun again.
Back on topic
Afterburner on hold its too cold to paint so wait till the temperatures getting better .
Then we need to weld on the new movement wheels and then putting the dam thing together again
Got one good (small)update
Thanks to laschek I got 3 spare afterburner untested board’s
And after testing
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03555_zps77030262.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i380/polderarcade/DSC03553_zpsb1f337eb.jpg)
2 of 3 boards are working, good news
@Mike
Looks like they did lots of solder work already to the boards how is your progress coming
@patnukem
How big is the door? ;D
You can separate the moving cockpit from the bottom frame bud that is the only thing you can take apart. And the cockpit part is still big
Other arcade updates will follow in their own topics oncoming days
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I am going to get into those boards in the next few weeks. Need to figure out what I can clean them with. I did get a good soldering station so that the temperature is right for soldering. By the way if you need any of the black snubbers/ film capacitors for the triac board I have the actual Panasonic part. I had to order 100 of them and I only need 8 for the two boards. In think I have a few extra!!!! I will see how it works. Just don't want to blow anymore triacs if it is something else. Will keep you updated.
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How much are the snubbers wil be interested in some
Good to start collection of spare parts for the moment I start with electronics ;D
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Probably about 2 - 3 dollars each plus shipping. Depends on how many you want. Let me know.
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Any chance you want to part with one of those working boards? I would like one for a back up.
Thanks
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You didn't happen to get any triac boards with the other boards by chance??
;D
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Another update on mine. I rebuild both of my triac boards and plugged it in. I have both motors out but plugged in to test. As soon as I turn it on it tries to test the motors and trips the breaker (main). If I unhook the board it will start up. Then I hook it back up and go into diagnostic. I tested all my motors and will only work on my left right connection on the back connection for forward and back I do not get anything from the motors. Obviously the motors are good. When I checked my triac board again everything still tested good. I have not tried the other board yet. Any ideas why it would trip on motor warm up but not when running in diagnostics? Also any ideas why I am getting nothing from my forward/ back connection. I checked my wiring to the triac board from the motor and everything looks good. I am stuck!!
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:P it seems we're on the same boat now . especially if tests are ok. i wonder that it's not triacs... if the tests up/right didnt go ok, do you have the motor behind trying to move ? that would mean you'd try to push/pull manually the cockpit? it helps...
btw i didnt find the info clearly by reading these written schematics.. what's the number sega part for the "drive board" ?
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sorry I don’t have any spare boards at the moment I have 3 working boards and 3 none working boards.
The 3 working boards are for :
Afterburner upright
Afterburner dlx
And tunderblade sit-down
So no spare boards and no not any traic boards in the deal
Too bad I can’t be very helpful at the moment at moment busy whit lots of different arcade projects and afterburner is on hold till summer so I don’t have much things to test electronic.
Drive board sega 839-0086
That’s the thing I was thinking at the moment is it sure the problem is in the triac board ?
Maybe something wrong in the drive board ?
My knowledge of electronics is really basic so can’t say too much till the moment I will start messing around whit my own machine and I will have the time to test and see how it works.
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The drive board is on page 61 of the manual. It is number 12 in the picture and the actual part number is 839-0086. Imam in the process of replacing mine. I am trying to get one. May try for a few extras if they are not too high on price. I know you are looking for one and so is poldercade. I will let you guys know.
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yep same goal it seems hunt will be hard for us three :-\. polderarcade has been speeding to successfully find 6 carts , it's litteraly like buying the whole world stock :P. took me about 2 years to source only 2 motherboards !! :ghost:. i saw months ago (with the sega number) a triacs board on ebay. .. at glance i would have never figured it was that ! (because the fans were missing..)
the only electronics parts in the cockpit visually are : triacs, drive board, 5volts card, sound card and the small things & ribbons around psu's.
i tried few times to increase the 5V, but it didnt help my machine to go good..
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Well I may have some relief. I just ordered some of the driver boards we want. Not the triac boards. I found some and I am order like 4 of them. I should be able to set you guys up with one, just not sure what shipping will cost. I know they are not really available. I found the companynthatbis set over here and they had some left. I bought them. Will let you know when I get them and will test out the drive board theory. Like we said I do not think it is the triac board. I will just keep working my way through each board I guess.
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I have drive boards in my hand. I am going to try one of them this weekend. If younguysnare interested in one then let me know. We can figure out a price and shipping. Just pm me and we will figure it out.
Thanks
Mike
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:P first i'll pray for your machine !!! ;D as it figures we us have not the triacs problem typical related "everytime". if it solves (i really hope !!) i'm interested to hear. i live in europe/france, that would only take times to send..
but you didnt answer about the right/down in the tests menus, did the behing cabinet motor spin ? else that would figure something other is blocking or some other electronics related..
about the snubbers.. what i heard from the electronics shops may be wrong... :-\ i just saw by luck a blog about some various repairs, someone saved some gear that wasnt working at all, just because of the snubbers !
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I have the actual snubbers that are the part. I changed all of them on both boards. As for drive board I plugged a new one in and it still is not working for motion. Still have an occasional issue with the main breaker tripping on start up. My motion only want side to side initially never forward and back. When I replaced that motor I started having more problems. I am also going to check on the DC/ DC converter board and also some of the small parts that are goingmtowardmthe transformers. I also heard the ssr board may have some things to do with it. I think I can get both of those. That would make it so I have a new drive board, ssr board and DC/DC converter board. That would mean all newborns except the triac. I will let you know about them.. Still in similar,situation as before.
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:-\ damn at first glance that's cold shower :-[. the relay SSR as in the afterburner upright? it was supposed only for the lights?!
http://dweeb.net/afterburner/ssrfix/
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i remember from the first times .. i succeeded ONE only time to get movement (left+right) in the game. (but not the up/down.. i didnt think in that time of the pushing needed manual to "motivate" the tests courses..). one thing i still didnt test (always busy thinking of another thing..) is try to click the "limit switchs" manually.
but well since all changes i could on the triacs, sure some things went wrong (my last problem : motor behind still rolling and then the breakers clash..)
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did you get electrified ? did you succeeded with the other drive boards ? we still hope :spaceace:
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Anyway someone could get me the values of R2 and R13 on the dc/dc board? mine were so bad they fell apart and I could not read the value on the resistors!
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All the super-interesting AB-restoration-threads stop in the middle how it looks..... :-[
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i think of it every time but still challenging to get a place to install my stuff :evil:
another thing. there are new power boards for space harrier, but none project to rebuild the afterburner ones ?!
another thing i think or hope .. why no one skilled enough made a basis from afterburner movement system to adapt other games like a dynamic 2DOF/3DOF/4DOF platform ? imo , afterburner deluxe is the most common arcade machine with servo motors.
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meanwhile in Osaka, :P
a tournament on 3 machines,
https://twipla.jp/events/477236
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/ExOXin5VgAI5Lxv?format=jpg&name=small)
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/ExO8vPaU8AQKWtL?format=jpg&name=small)
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Holy shit, what a view! 3 AB DX in a row! :o :-*
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:spaceace: a japanese engineer of the Afterburner deluxe is on twitter and proud of his 35 years machine.. but i guess we'll have to be very motivated to motivate him to help us...
https://twitter.com/9wD7Kwx1IN1sPHi
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so the Afterburners pray that their machines will still work ? wake up it's only a matter of time before they need refurbish !
there's no news since this 2009 replica project ?!..
https://www.ukvac.com/forum/threads/afterburner-dlx-motor-drive-boards.56591/
https://circuitmaker.com/Projects/Details/John-Bennett-11/839-0086