[Restoration] Frogger - why did the frog cross the road?

[Superully]

just checked the +5V line from the switcher to the pcb, here are the results (all measures taken "under load"):

at the switcher: +5.03
at the first connector: +5.01
at the second connector: +4.90
at the pcb (longest wire in between): +4.72

basically that's a drop of roughly 0.3 volts. is that within tolerance levels? would it suffice to "crank up" the switcher to +5.36 volts which would result in a +5.02 volts measure at the pcb connector?

[PunkRockCaveman]

The current ON the pcb is all that counts. How much it is on its way to it's destination is irrelevant. I have a (Sega) Frogger PCB too and I think it needed a bit more than 5.0xV. You can test to crank it up to 5.2V on the pcb ... after that it gets critical, some TTL parts only have tollerance til 5,25V. Personally I always turn the voltages up to 5.1V, works on most games very well .

[2-mad]

But always measure the 5.1 or 5.2 Volt WITH a load on it ..

[level42]

Those are pretty high drops IMHO. This means pretty poor contact between all the connectors. Replacing them is a good idea.

[Superully]

Those are pretty high drops IMHO. This means pretty poor contact between all the connectors. Replacing them is a good idea.

the question is: is it necessary to do so or just a good idea? 

[Superully]

The current ON the pcb is all that counts. How much it is on its way to it's destination is irrelevant. I have a (Sega) Frogger PCB too and I think it needed a bit more than 5.0xV. You can test to crank it up to 5.2V on the pcb ... after that it gets critical, some TTL parts only have tollerance til 5,25V. Personally I always turn the voltages up to 5.1V, works on most games very well .

alright, cranked up the voltage to +5.01v at the pcb connector, then did some measures on the chips (7400 series) of the board itself. the frogger pcb basically of 1 1/2 pcbs stacked on each other, the connector plugs into the "half board" on top. voltages at the chips on the top board (the half one where the connector goes in) are now at 4.99 volts. those measures drop to 4.89 volts all over the lower board. is that normal?

should i crank up the switcher power so that roughly 5.1 volts are on the upper and 5.0 volts on the lower board?

[PunkRockCaveman]

Yes, try and crank it like that ... If that helps, you can go on and change or clean the connectors because you have a contact problem there.

[Superully]

here's an update on the monitor:

- put the two pink wires back on the 100v terminal, left the brown one at the 120v terminal (thus feeding 100v into the switcher and 120v into the monitor) fireworks

- put the brown wire back on the 100v terminal as well (thus feeding 100v into both the switcher and the monitor) fireworks



i'm going to give it a try with another chassis now and see what happens - this is strange indeed!

[Superully]

tried it with a second chassis at 100v fireworks!!!

man, this is driving me n-u-t-s

[2-mad]

Thats the reason why Hobby-Freaks may not work on this !
Call a professional or learn to interprete wiring diagrams.
Or call Winni ! Send some greetings !

[Superully]

Thats the reason why Hobby-Freaks may not work on this !
Call a professional or learn to interprete wiring diagrams.
Or call Winni ! Send some greetings !

hobby-freaks 

why should i interpret any wiring diagram in this case? it was working fine yesterday, i changed some wires to feed 120 into the monitor, changed it back, not working anymore. no reason to turn to professionels right away, in fact we have a lot of professionals here on the board who are willing to help out ...

[Etienne MacGyver]

hmm, that is strange indeed...
well, not really surprising, because like i said, its not that big difference in voltage.

do you have another 110 volt monitor around that you can hook up to the setup ?

if that works, then its clear you got a problem in the electrohome, maybe something in the tube shorted out ?
(dont know if that is possible, but the colorcanons are in there afaik  )

[Superully]

do you have another 110 volt monitor around that you can hook up to the setup ?

i have a couple of hantarex lying around, but i (a) don't know about their voltages and (b) whether they are working at all. got them for free as spares, never needed to test them ...

[Superully]

i have to get back to the speaker problem: let's say the speaker is working, but i don't know whether it gets the correct input through the two wires leading up to it. is there anything i can do to test those wires? resistance, voltage, ...?

[Etienne MacGyver]

Sure,

take this:  or any other device that produces audio and has this kind of connection (laptop, pc soundcard whaterever)

and then take a plug like this :
connect the wire of the speaker and insert this plug in your device;

"press play on tape"    and when you hear the sound it means its ok