Williams (Euro) Joust: a close encounter with the Flying Elite

[level42]

Not many suggestions to make on the switching power supply. Are you sure your DVM is OK ? It's a bit strange that a switcher gives out such higher voltages.

I just hope it didn't fry anything.....

[baritonomarchetto]

Not many suggestions to make on the switching power supply. Are you sure your DVM is OK ? It's a bit strange that a switcher gives out such higher voltages.

I just hope it didn't fry anything.....

The PCB was not connected, so nothing has been fryed  

I will try another digital voltmeter, just to be sure it's ok. If it works correctly, do you think that changing the electrolitic capacitors could do something?

Another thing Andrè: i am having some problem finding out a 36 cm neon for the marquee light: AFAYK is it still a produced measure or do i have to change the neon system?

[Laschek]

Testing a switching power supply without anything connected gives you wrong results...
Though I don't think it should measure up to 16 V?

[Etienne MacGyver]

Another thing Andrè: i am having some problem finding out a 36 cm neon for the marquee light: AFAYK is it still a produced measure or do i have to change the neon system?

fluorecent, not neon! , you know Andre is from the neonpolice right ? 

[level42]

Woo-woo-woooh, YOU'RE BUSTED !

Yes, it's the NEON police here ! Check that thread that Etienne linked to and then let's talk about fluorescent tubes 

I was actually waiting for Bruno to post that

First: Not all switchers show wrong voltages when unconnected, I believe the kind of switchers that are commonly used in games are usually OK to measure unloaded.
But it is worth checking out.

Trying another volt meter is a good idea, at least you will know if the meter is right.

36cm......is that the same as the Berzerk size ? If so I still got 3 here (or did I buy two for Muerto, I can't remember ! ) In that case I still have one here.....

The one's I got for the Berzerks are F14T8 type. They are specced as 15" long (that translates to about 38cm.

[baritonomarchetto]

I gave a check with another voltmeter and values are still too high (but instead of 16 V i read 13 V). Those cheap voltmeters are good only for continuity checks 

Having a very good voltmeter at home now (the one i use at work) i will intall a sacrificial videopoker PCB just to have a load and see what the meter displays.

For what concerns the fluorescent tube  i can house a 35-38 tube with little modifications but are they so rare? I cannot find those measures here 

Thanks guys 

[baritonomarchetto]

I had some read to the power supplyed with a load (the sacrifical videopoker PCB): i can read values that are 0.3V lower with respect to the unload measure, so: 12.7V (too high), 5.3V (borderline), -4.9V (ok)

I suppose i am over the anti-fry tollerances (+-0.1V?)

a strange thing is that my DVM was working today: it gave me the same values of the "superprofessional" DVM... is it possible that the switching requires some time loaded to the 220V before starting operating right?

[italiandoh]

I had some read to the power supplied with a load (the sacrifical videopoker PCB): i can read values that are 0.3V lower with respect to the unload measure, so: 12.7V, 5.3V, -4.9V

Those values are perfectly normal for such a switching power supply when tested without any load. Next time make sure you hook up a load at least to +5 V line before testing. A big power resistor would do the job if you don't want to risk using a board.

I suppose i am over the anti-fry tollerances (+-0.1V?)

Power supply tolerance is usually 5% for TTL, so you need to adjust the +5 V output line to stay within such limits when loaded (max 5,25 V). For power supply lines, make sure you use wires with appropriate section otherwise they will not be able to carry the required current.
For such reasons it's better to test the voltages on the test points on board and not on the power supply output. So test there and adjust +5 V line as needed. If adjustment doesn't give expected results, then your power supply is faulty.

a strange thing is that my DVM was working today: it gave me the same values of the "superprofessional" DVM... is it possible that the switching requires some time loaded to the 220V before starting operating right?

Usually no. If this is the case then there are some weak components around or poor connections.
Good luck,

Matteo

[baritonomarchetto]

Thanks Matteo. As i wrote, a load WAS connected (an old videopoker PCB) and the 5V modulation potentiometer could not lower those values anymore. What i can state is then that those values are out from the normal operation range

[baritonomarchetto]

And Barito said, "Let there be light," and the marquee lit up. Barito saw that the light was good, and he separated the image of the lit up marquee from the old dead one



Yessss, the marquee light works again! I had to replace the ballast and the starter (less than 5 euro's in total) and, found out the F14T8 florescent tube required (a shop 2 km from my house still have them in stock! approx 9 euros), it was easy to have everithing running...

In addition, today i had the shipping confirmation from arcadeshop.de so next week i will check the jamma harness installed, finally

[Superully]

Yessss, the marquee light works again! I had to replace the ballast and the starter (less than 5 euro's in total)

@barito light god: where did you get the replacements ballasts? i could need one for my joust 2 and my moon patrol as well!

btw, great work on the joust so far, i'm totally convinced you'll have it up and running shortly! go for gold

[baritonomarchetto]

Those fluo tubes are 14W, so you can use every ballast with a higher nominal power (a 20 W would suffice, but the one i got has 30W nominal power). I bought it in a specialized shop close to me, but i saw them also at Brico Center (the price at BC was doubled for the ballast, 4X for the starter  )

[level42]

I don't know how it is over there, but with us, DIY stores like Gamma and Karwei always have VERY cheap TL-sets on offer. It's a "complete device" containing ballast, starter holder, starter, tube holder and tube of course all together ready to install, for a mear €7 or something like that. Often the tube is too wide, but these things come apart very easily and can also handle a smaller tube.

[Superully]

thx for reminding me, where's my brain? now i remember that you had already told me that when you were at my place, andré! i'll have to check this out over the course of the next few days. i think even IKEA carries those complete sets ...

[level42]

Must say I love that marquee....if only mine was original