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Author Topic: Hanterax MTC9000 for Dragons Lair question  (Read 10329 times)
Giddygoon
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« on: December 25, 2009, 08:00:42 PM »


Hi All!

I've got an Hanterex MTC9000 19" Monitor, and im going to install it into my DL cabinet. will it run from the original Atari psu?? My cab is an Atari UK cabinet........ currently there is a TV in there but want to return back to an original state.

If anybody can help!!

Thanks again Giddygoon
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Maverick
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« Reply #1 on: December 25, 2009, 09:13:40 PM »

As long as I know: yes

My sidam has a hantarex 900E

and 9000 should be the same

I'll check the atari cab tonight and let you know

check the voltage first to be sure (should be 110 on the monitor entry and 220 on the power supply)

Let me know

Marco
« Last Edit: December 25, 2009, 10:14:01 PM by Maverick » Logged
italiandoh
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« Reply #2 on: December 25, 2009, 10:00:26 PM »

The Hantarex MTC9000 requires 128 V AC + 220 V AC to operate. These voltages are not available in an Atari Dragon's Lair. To do a correct installation you'll need to install an additional transformer to provide the required voltages to the MTC9000.
However, you can "hack" it in using the 120 V AC used to supply the Matsushita original Atari monitor, feeding it to both 128V and 220V AC of MTC9000 power supply inputs. It will work the same but with degraded performance of the degaussing system.

Matteo
« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 12:37:53 AM by italiandoh » Logged
Maverick
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« Reply #3 on: December 25, 2009, 10:35:43 PM »

Checked,

Yes I confirm what matteo said, it is a matsushita (not
Matshushita
 eaten much today, eh matteo?!  Grin Xmas even to you  Cheesy)

do as matteo told you, or use an external power supply for the hantarex like the 250 or 150 very easy to find in your country (ebay.co.uk) so you can avoid the degradation of the image

Let me know

Mav
« Last Edit: December 25, 2009, 10:37:55 PM by Maverick » Logged
Giddygoon
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« Reply #4 on: December 25, 2009, 10:37:41 PM »

Hi thanks for the info, but I'm confused! First of all I'm not sure that I have a hanterex mtc9000 or weather it's a mtc 990? How do you tell? Also I took this monitor from a jamma cab and I have the hanterex psu that it was running from, I could put that in my DL cab but Id really like the monitor to run from the original psu in cab

if anybody could give a bit more info, Ive never done a monitor swap before. I thought that if the monitor was from a uk jamma cab it should work in a UK DL cab.

Appreciate the any help with this seeing as I'm installing the
monitor tmr.
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Maverick
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« Reply #5 on: December 25, 2009, 10:42:52 PM »

Ive never done a monitor swap before.

Giddy, one word: BEWARE

it is better you call a technician

before doing anything you have got to discharge the tubes


I thought that if the monitor was from a uk jamma cab it should work in a UK DL cab.

Nothign is sure at this life, consider that each dedicated machine is made to work on its own

they are not jamma so keep this point in mind

Appreciate the any help with this seeing as I'm installing the
monitor tmr.

Discharge the tube,
placeit in the Dl cab and then use the power supply of the hantarex (that should be 150 or 250)

Let us know

and don't be dumb with monitors' discharge procedure

Mav

Hi thanks for the info, but I'm confused! First of all I'm not sure that I have a hanterex mtc9000 or weather it's a mtc 990? How to

Make a photo, a simple photo and post it

and I'll let you know
« Last Edit: December 25, 2009, 10:45:37 PM by Maverick » Logged
Giddygoon
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« Reply #6 on: December 25, 2009, 10:57:37 PM »

Thanks for all your help! Discharging is a must but your right, DL is not jamma cab! I'm away from machine right but I will send a photo of the monitor asap! It's a shame about the voltage difference, it would have been to have run the new monitor from the original psu, how do I know that I have the original psu, what does it look like...what do you look for to recognise it as the Atari original!

Thanks again john
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Maverick
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« Reply #7 on: December 25, 2009, 11:13:35 PM »

your right, DL is not jamma cab!

I know, it is not an easy fix if it stops or must be restored

Keep it always in mind

It's a shame about the voltage difference, it would have been to have run the new monitor from the original psu,

Don't get demotivated

You can do it just get what it needs to make it work properly with loseless efficency

how do I know that I have the original psu, what does it look like...what do you look for to recognise it as the Atari original!

Thanks for all your help!


Thanks again john

I see to make a photo of mine and post it maybe tomorrow

Mav
« Last Edit: December 25, 2009, 11:17:59 PM by Maverick » Logged
Level42
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« Reply #8 on: December 26, 2009, 12:13:34 AM »

Ive never done a monitor swap before.

Giddy, one word: BEWARE

it is better you call a technician

before doing anything you have got to discharge the tubes


No, no, no. There is NO need to discharge a monitor if you are NOT going to remove the tube from the chassis !

This urban legend just never seems to stop. In fact, you are searching for trouble doing so IMHO.

ONLY if you plan on removing the anode cup from the CRT, you will first need to discharge.
If you are just going to swap the monitor completely, there is NO need to discharge. The only place that any high voltage COULD be available is under that rubber/plastic cup on the tube. As long as you're not going to stick your finger under there, you are safe.
Handle the monitor only by it's frame and you can simply swap around.

Note that there _can_ be caps on the chassis that hold a voltage. But if it's been turned off for some time (24 hrs) those charges are usually gone. Simply: don't touch chassis, don't stick finger or tongue under anode cup and you are safe.
« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 12:16:40 AM by Level42 » Logged

Maverick
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« Reply #9 on: December 26, 2009, 12:17:58 AM »

Everytime you have to act on the tube (as in this case moving from a cab to an another) it must be discharged

It never happens that the tube discharge, but if accidentally it does, it kills

30,000 Volts are killers

not my word check BYOAC

Better work safely



here a good guide to do it:

http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade_monitors.shtml

http://www.stickycarpet.com/pinx/md.html

Mav
« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 12:35:13 AM by Maverick » Logged
Level42
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« Reply #10 on: December 26, 2009, 12:27:22 AM »

Everytime you have to act on the tube (as in this case moving fro a cab to an another) it must be discharged

Well, I'm an electronics engineer, and I disagree. Moving a COMPLETE monitor is _not_ the same as acting on the tube.

Also, the high voltages are nasty, but not killers. Yes it's high voltage, but there's no real power behind it. It's not like a hi-voltage power line that is hanging in the air to power cities with electricity.

Yes, it's a nasty bite (and yes, I've experienced it one time). My uncle has had several of them and he's still alive and well (he has been repairing TV's for 30 years).

I don't care what people write, there are millions of lies written all over the internet, I care about what people write he KNOW their stuff, not just "howling with the wolves".

The second link you mention even says it in the first line:

Before you go diving in and start pulling out Anode plugs,

See, and that's not what you do when you simply move a complete monitor over.

But yes, if you are going to separate the tube from the chassis, or even plan on only touching the anode cup, YES a discharge _must_ be done.

That second link is the perfect way to do it. I've seen suggestions to use an uninsulated screwdriver and some wire etc. and I feel that that is even MORE dangerous than not discharging at all, because it's very easy to accidentally touch the metal part of the uninsulated screwdriver. That's why I say don't do it if need _really_ necessary.

I have a unit that's a HV probe and meter in one unit that I use for measuring the HV and discharging it. Without any exception all the tubes I discharged had no charge anymore when I did the discharging, but I STILL do it EVERY-TIME to be 100% sure, but only if I need to remove the cup.

I'm all for safety, in fact I'm about the most critical person about safety in my work and at home, but there is no need to keep on telling myths and giving false information that make people unnecessarily scared (which is actually endangering them).


« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 12:40:30 AM by Level42 » Logged

Maverick
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« Reply #11 on: December 26, 2009, 12:32:42 AM »

Moving a COMPLETE monitor is _not_ the same as acting on the tube.

Also, the high voltages are nasty,

Yes, it's a nasty bite (and yes, I've experienced it one time).

You 're right

but as posted on BYOAC (a forum as long as I know in which you are signed too and extremely serious on informations given) it is safer,

Many don't have the same knowledge you have as us in muching inside a monitor (where to touch and where not)

For giddy it would be better to discharge the monitor and proceed with the swap to avoid any 1/99% risk

Mav
« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 12:34:52 AM by Maverick » Logged
italiandoh
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« Reply #12 on: December 26, 2009, 12:40:46 AM »

so you can avoid the degradation of the image

I didn't say this. I only spoke about a degradation of the performance of the degaussing system that is launched once at every monitor power on. Picture quality won't be affected as long as the new monitor is in good working order.

Matteo
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Level42
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« Reply #13 on: December 26, 2009, 12:43:56 AM »

The point I'm trying to make is that unexperienced people have more risk of getting a shock from the HV by trying to discharge it wrongly and if it's not necessary, why seek that risk ?

And being a member of a forum doesn't automatically makes me agree with everything written there Wink

Anyway, I'm always trying to give advice with the best interest for all people Smiley
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Maverick
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« Reply #14 on: December 26, 2009, 12:47:11 AM »

The point I'm trying to make is that unexperienced people have more risk of getting a shock from the HV by trying to discharge it wrongly and if it's not necessary, why seek that risk ?


I think Giddy will do it wisely I've bought many items from years on ebay and I know he's a wise guy

as fully demonstrated avoiding any risk following the procedure

Hopefully he'll do it with the help of some technician

He's a wise person so I think he'll not fail

Mav

But yes, if you are going to separate the tube from the chassis, or even plan on only touching the anode cup, YES a discharge _must_ be done.

Touching the anode cup when moving a monitor if you have experience can happen

So why risk?
« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 01:01:09 AM by Maverick » Logged
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