Sadly I don't think so, because the blue *always* ends before the red and green. It is because the blue phosphor is the least durable of the three.
Yeah, depending on the projector, the blue or green will wear the most. Your eyes don't really need to see much blue and green in nature (sky, grass), red is the most important.. so the B & G CRTs are driven harder and will wear faster. Since video games have static images, the tubes will also burn.
Fortunately for all of us.. nobody wants CRT projection anymore. Also, the Sony VPH-10xx series projectors are about the most common units ever made. They're also some of the cheapest.. which in projector-speak means that they use lower-end CRTs and don't have terribly tight focusing ability.
This is good and bad.. because when blowing up 15.7khz images on large screens, if you have really good focus, your screen will actually be less bright, since you will actually see scan lines with empty space between them. If your tubes have poor focus, the beam will be hitting more phosphor, and putting out more light. It's common practice to electrically defocus your blue tube for exactly this reason (NOT optically defocus, because you aren't getting more light by doing this).
I wouldn't bother re-tubing those projectors.. they are already going to have high hours on the chassis as well. Just completely replace them.
Personally, I would replace them with Barco 701, 708 or Cine 7 projectors (also re-labeled as Runco DTV-940, 943, 947, with the bonus of a black-painted casing). They are much brighter and still nice and small enough that they should fit into the same space as your 1043s. They are also totally-digitally controlled units, so you can set them up using a remote and PERFECTLY align the left and right screens. The Sonys are analog-units, you have to converge them by tweaking trimpots -- they are far less precise, less bright, and more likely to have convergence drift.
Personally, if I would have a CRT projector, I would buy three completely new tubes. Red, green and blue. Because the use of the projector / games in private will never ever become as intensive as in public environment. They'd last me my life time after the change.
And, you would set the contrast/brightness level to optimal, instead of as in the arcades on maximal.
.. also, I'm trying to find out if there's a 'sweet spot' where to keep the intensity output, to maintain the CRTs health as long as possible with a minimal compromise in the picture brightness.
Yes, It would be ideal to run the projectors at lesser contrast levels... but if the game is only going to be on for a few weeks a year, I would probably just leave it set to look as good as it can.
I'm sure you're not considering it anyway, but DO NOT put any digital projectors in that thing! first of all they won't be able to gracefully deal with the throw geometry, and the color will not be as brilliant.
This post is already long, but considering it's my first: I'll say that I've been following your progress on this thing, and it looks amazing! I am an expert with CRT projection so I can offer you some guidance if you need it.
Personally, I want to own a G3 someday as well.. and as long as they would fit, I would install Barco 7-series projectors with external line-doublers. It would look far better than new.
Within the last 2 weeks I just replaced all 24 CRTs in my 8-player Daytona USA Special, I haven't seen a single 50" screen look that good in years.. much less 8 of them, all aligned with each other and color-balanced.
Your priority should be to swap the projectors out, or the tubes at the very least -- you'll wonder why you never did it sooner!
Also, stockpile some extra projectors whenever you find them cheap.
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