Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: Reboot on April 18, 2013, 05:40:55 PM
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1759.JPG)
Since i played an outrun standard sitdown at the local carnival in the eighties i wished i could own a outrun cab myself oneday, so when i started this nice hobby i always looked out for one on marktplaats. A few upright cabs came along but i was always outbid. But luckily one ad was placed not on marktplaats but on speurders.nl and by chance i looked there at the right time (normally i don't look there).
The operator of the arcade hall of ponypark Slagharen (a nice themepark in the Netherlands) was selling his last three outrun deluxe sitdown cabs (he had five). Although it's a huge cab i had to have it, so emailed him asking what he wanted for it and after some negotiation it was a deal for all three of them :)
Because of their size i had to make room in my little garage to fit 2 of them at most, so it took a few weeks to clear the room. Then came the first disappointment. The three cabs where in working order when the seller had put them away he said, but when my brother went looking at his place one of them wasn't moving and had a troubled monitor wich gave a good picture after turning some pods at the monitor.
I wanted them badly so didn't make a great fuss about it only asked nicely if the seller could fix it (maybe just some loose wires or dipswitch setting i hoped), which he didn't want to because he was selling them and didn't want to put time in them anymore (understandable) The price didn't change although one wasn't moving. :(
Also because of their size i asked the seller if he could bring them to me for around 200 euro extra which he first thought was reasenable but would think about it. When he brought them it turned out to be 320 euro :(
(I knew this before he brought them to me, so i accepted the price which was still good in my opinion)
Now that i had them at home i could check them myself and started the cabs. The first moved at startup which it is suposed to do and the game start up, nice, me happy. ;D (still it has it's problems, will talk about that later)
The second one didn't and gave a motor error, also the screen wasn't readable (color garbage) for a few moments (when it displays the error message).
But luckily the game started up although the colors were all wrong (a blue ferrari instead of a red one)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1771.JPG)
The third one which my brother has is working as far as i know now with sometimes a strange sound when moving, just as if it is knocking against something. Have to look into that later.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1660.JPG)
After further inspection of the cabs the most important problem is the stearing unit. (just like everybody else) In the first cab gear b is missing with a piece of metal where the left spring suposed to grab onto (above gear c) . Also no springs. Instead of gear b it has some sort of red rubber belt
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1698.JPG)
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:)
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This one looks nice, for crazy money though: http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/verzamelen/retro/m667419955-arcade-outrun-sitdown-dlx-collectors-item.html
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I saw at least one of these about....mmmmm....7 years ago still in operation at Slagharen. IIRC they weren't in the best of shape IIRC. They sure had their investment returned on them judging how long they have been running !!!!
So, you're going to make them all work or combine them into 1 working ? Definitly a very cool cab to own and the only proper way to play Outrun IMHO....with the speakers in your neck gently playing the music ;)
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So?
Sorry wasn't ready with my text but had to work. Don't know if you can save the text that you have typed or that it is deleted when logging out so i posted it before i logged off.
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So?
Sorry wasn't ready with my text but had to work. Don't know if you can save the text that you have typed or that it is deleted when logging out so i posted it before i logged off.
Big messages, i Always type in notepad first, later i copy and paste it in a thread and use the preview button.
If that looks good, i press "post" or create a new thread and then paste it in there and press "post" :P
Great cab by the way, my favorite racing game back in the days..
If only i had the space ....
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I saw at least one of these about....mmmmm....7 years ago still in operation at Slagharen. IIRC they weren't in the best of shape IIRC. They sure had their investment returned on them judging how long they have been running !!!!
Don't know if the operator has reset the teller but these are the numbers on my cabs
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1646.JPG) cab 1
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1767.JPG) cab 2
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1780.JPG) cab 2
Look at the average playtime, just 1m 24s and the longest only 5m 27s on 7326 games played. Not what you call value for money for the players (1 euro or 1 guilder) :o
So, you're going to make them all work or combine them into 1 working ? Definitly a very cool cab to own and the only proper way to play Outrun IMHO....with the speakers in your neck gently playing the music ;)
If i can find the missing pieces i hope to get them all to work correctly again
So does anyone have outrun steering wheel unit pieces laying around?
On klov forum someone named Steve23 i think had gears made, but it is already some years ago so where can you buy them now?
I can't post on klov forum so can't ask there (is here someone who is willing to recomend me on klov so i can post there?)
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Big messages, i Always type in notepad first, later i copy and paste it in a thread and use the preview button.
If that looks good, i press "post" or create a new thread and then paste it in there and press "post" :P
Great cab by the way, my favorite racing game back in the days..
If only i had the space ....
So simple yet so useful, hadn't thought of that :)
On long text the scrolling is awfull too to past something in.
Thanks, very useful tip.
My space is limited also (5m x 4m) Had to clear everything else in my garage out except offcourse my other big cabs (rad mobile deluxe sitdown, thunderblade deluxe sitdown and mr and ms pacman pinball. Don't know what to do with the other normal cabs i have, which are now parked in my living room. My wife is not happy (understatement).
Walking space is very limited so no nice gameroom where you can hang but he at least the cabs are in there ;D
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So does anyone have outrun steering wheel unit pieces laying around?
On klov forum someone named Steve23 i think had gears made, but it is already some years ago so where can you buy them now?
I can't post on klov forum so can't ask there (is here someone who is willing to recomend me on klov so i can post there?)
Funny, i just posted this link in two other otrun threads today, now this thread is number 3 ;D
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=272475
ps, what you mean with recomend on klov ? did they change something there ?
i just created an account and started to post there..
oh and if those counters are correct, they made some serious cash :o
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i can read most entries and see the pictures when i log in with my klov account (2ndReboot, because there was a Reboot already) but can't post anything so no asking questions or reply on sales etc. Also when i click your link it says:
You are not logged in or you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
You are not logged in. Fill in the form at the bottom of this page and try again.
You may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.
So can't see what's behind your link, strange even when i log in with my account.
To get posting privileges i need to pay or have someone else who has posting privileges recomend me so the admin knows i'm not a spammer or so.
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The second cab has one broken spring on the left and gear b has a crack so need a replacement in the near future. Don't know if it's missing something
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1706.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1715.JPG)
On klov Steve23 had links to his flicker page where he had over 320 hi-res pictures of the stering unit, seen those before but now that i need them i can't find them. the links doesn't work anymore or most of the pictures are gone.
Here are random photo i made of my steering units
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1687.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1688.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1689.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1690.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1692.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1693.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1694.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1695.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1698.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1708.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1710.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1711.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1712.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1714.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1716.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1717.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1719.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1720.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1721.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1722.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1723.JPG)
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Maybe just create a new account at klov ?
Anyway here the post from klov:
The retired machinist guy from my work has helped me with my gears. He was looking at emachine shop but the cost was going to be to high for most people. He said he could have the gear section machined and attach ABS hubs to bring the cost down. I asked why he couldn't make the whole gear from the ABS filament, how strong is it? He said he could and made a couple sets for me. I installed the gears and purposely did not grease them to see how they would do. I have about 100 plays on a set and they still look exactly like they did.
He said I could ask here to guage interest and he could supply sets (all 4 with springs) here for $55 shipped. If you have a good "A" you could just use his "B". If you have a good "B" you could use his "A". He made the C and D a little thicker and suggests using both his C and D together. If you just need the C and D he could do that to. He is steel band reinforcing the hub area and supplying new springs that are a slightly reduced spring rate. Here are some pictures. What do y'all think?
He asked if there was an interest if I could help him do a YouTube video showing how to take apart and install the gears and I said I would.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r594/Travish1/Outrun/DSC02512_zps9a49d654.jpg) (http://s1173.photobucket.com/user/Travish1/media/Outrun/DSC02512_zps9a49d654.jpg.html)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r594/Travish1/Outrun/DSC02520_zps2b9ea60c.jpg) (http://s1173.photobucket.com/user/Travish1/media/Outrun/DSC02520_zps2b9ea60c.jpg.html)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r594/Travish1/Outrun/DSC02506_zps10d2e0fb.jpg) (http://s1173.photobucket.com/user/Travish1/media/Outrun/DSC02506_zps10d2e0fb.jpg.html)
EDIT:
Now i see, it says "Member and Dealer - Products, Mods and Services (Restricted) "
dont know how that works at klov ?
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Thanks Etienne, it would be nice to get some of those gears but i can't reply :(
If it's possible can you post the reply's in that topic here too, it's an interesting topic which i can't follow on klov it seems
Aren't here more people in need of these gears, maybe a groupbuy or so to get some to this side of the ocean?
I'm needing 3 sets.
Iron ones would be even beter. Don't know how strong or lasting those replica's are (100 games played with no significant wear is an indication but more (longer) user experience is welcome)
Aren't here dutch or european collectors who have these gear made by a local shop?
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well, normally i dont like to do this, but here we go :
I'd buy 2 kits.
Ill help support the project too
Ill take a set or two
As well
Jeff
Id buy a set, and I know a friend needs a set as well
Good. He has helped me many times. I went through a dry run on the Youtube video last night. I think it will come out good and help anyone who is installing gears. I can take them apart blindfolded now (well just about).
How does this material compare to the OEM? How is he machining these? It looks kinda rough in the pics, reminds me of 3D printer work.
thats it for now.
I would try to create a new account at klov if i where you..
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Again thanks Etienne, but because of this rule:
EXTRA SIGNUP STEP FOR ARCADE-MUSEUM FORUM USERS:
In order to protect our forum communities, users interested in posting on our message forums have to go through a further
approval step after verifying your email address. After logging onto the forum system at least once, you will either need the
recommendation of an existing forum member, or you will have to verify your identify via PayPal by donating $2 or more
to the International Arcade Museum Library, Inc. After you validate this signup by following the instructions received by email,
log onto the forums with your new account and then follow the instructions in the New User section (get an existing member
to recommend you, or donate via PayPal.
I don't think it help much as you can read, i need an existing member to recommend me or donate via paypal (which i don't have and i'm not willing to create a paypal account at the moment)
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where can i recommend you at klov ?
is that specified in the mail ?
let me know and i will recommend you
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where can i recommend you at klov ?
is that specified in the mail ?
let me know and i will recommend you
Thanks, on klov *** How To Gain Full Forum Access *** page it says:
If you have friend on this site already, and you want full access via the recommendation method, give the friend your forum username and ask them to contact us on your behalf.
my account name on klov is: 2ndReboot
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One thing i forgot to mention about my steering unit is that on cab 1 the gummi rubber has broken off
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1693a.JPG) the state in my cab 1
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1731.JPG) how it's supose to be, cab 2
So this part is also needed. Because its sollid rubber or plastic it could be made of hard wood or so.
In that light here are the measurements:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1730.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1732.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1735.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1737.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1738.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1740.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1743.JPG)
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Now that i know what's wrong with the steering units all i can do now is to find the missing/broken parts.
So to the next problem, the gear unit.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1760.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1807.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1808.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1750.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1749.JPG)
When i opened the gear unit of cab 1 all the cables were loose, no cables were connected to the microswitch and the cables were in a knot!
Very limited space to get the knot out, only room for one hand. Search for smaller hands or the side must be removed.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1824.JPG)
Gear unit of cab 2 had one cable connected to the microswitch, so were does the other cable connect to?
2 choices, the middle or bottom connector of the microswitch. Turned out to be the middle one. The bottom one isn't used.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1775.JPG)
When the microswitch is pushed its low gear, not pushed is high gear. So cab 1 plays always in high gear mode because no wires are connected which is the same as not pushed.
Where does that green ground cable go onto?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1781a.JPG)
My gear handles are all very loose, has no friction at all. Is this normal or are my gears
missing a spring or something? Where are those holes for?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1809.JPG)
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1767.JPG)
Let's calculate....let's assume that it was on guilders 50 percent of it's life and 50 on Euro's (to make it easier)....
230000/2 = 115000 x DLF 1, 115000 x €1
Let's go easy and say a guilder was half a € so 57500 + 115000 = €172500
Subtract new price of the machine BITD, let's say it was DFL 10000, so about €5000
Let's add €1000 for maintenance and licenses throughout the years....
€172500-€6000 = €166500 profit for 1 machine.....f-ing awesome IMHO !!!!
Then again....we need to spread it out over about 25 years....€6660 per year.
Still very good for 1 machine....
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Had a little sparetime yesterday so used it to take the gear of cab 2 apart by unscrewing the 2 screws on both sides
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1823.JPG)
Then push the this thing (don't know its name) aside and take the small ring away. Now you can take the bracket apart.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1813.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1814.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1815.JPG)
The plate has a deep scratch mark between and underneath the 2 holes were normally the ball bearing fall in when you move the gear
from low gear to high gear.
Wear and tear from frequently use.
Took out the ball bearings and spring. Damn, the spring is broken. That explained the over smoothness of the gear which had no feeling of putting it into position.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1818.JPG)
The 2 spring parts were curled up. Uncurled them and turned then 180 degrees so the two ends becomes the middle and the ends which broke off each other becomes the outerparts.
Cleaned it up and put some grease on the spring and ball bearings and some on the plate so the gear stick moves smooth again with a feeling of putting the gear in low or high position
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1821.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1822.JPG)
Put it together and went on with the gear of cab 1.
Some difference between the two, the sides of gear from cab 1 is original (broken off but weld again) that of gear of cab 2 has 2 new L shaped metals on it.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1807a.JPG) gear of cab 2
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1809a.JPG) gear of cab 1
Gearbracket of cab 1 is less worn but... it's missing the ball bearings and spring. :(
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2091b.JPG)
(so here is my answer of the question i asked earlier if i missed something, answer: yes indeed for 1 cab)
So only cleaning it a bit and that's it for that one, have to seach for those parts first.
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Then push the this thing (don't know its name) aside and take the small ring away. Now you can take the bracket apart.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1813.JPG)
I believe its called a "E-Clip" ;)
It does have the shape of the letter E ::)
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/drm/633-050.2/image/2/)
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hi etienne and reboot
i looking for Gear B rerpo or spare pieces nobody have one for me please to sell in metal or plastic Thanks you*
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hi etienne and reboot
i looking for Gear B rerpo or spare pieces nobody have one for me please to sell in metal or plastic Thanks you*
Hi zamoth, can't help you because i'm looking for those gears myself. Etienne posted a for sale thread earlier here (on page 1) from klov forum by a guy named TravisH but i can't reply there to buy those. Don't know if you are a member there, if so you can buy the repro gears there.
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I believe its called a "E-Clip" ;)
It does have the shape of the letter E ::)
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/drm/633-050.2/image/2/)
Thanks, the manual calls it an E-ring, like E-clip better :)
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hi thanks reboot
for answer no i am not in klov member if you buy it can you ask 1 more Gear b in your order for me please !
let s me know iff it s possible thanks a lot thomas
i know some guys in uk do reproduction in Iron stuf not nylon did you see ? metal maybe beter all the times outrun is fatal Gear B is broken many times it s symptome !! lol
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Next part to check is the base of the cab where the hydraulic parts are and the power supply.
So the chair must be taken off. 2 bolts at the back
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1826.JPG)
and 2 at the front below the chair
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1829.JPG)
Then alot of wiggling and pushing. Finally got it out (look out for the 3 plugs underneath the chair!)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1831.JPG)
Treasures to be found under the chair: Lot of dust, a few zippers?? and euro coins ;D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1832.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1833.JPG)
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Forgot to take photo's of the other cab, which also had even more zippers and euro's. All in all a discount of the price of around 25 euro's :)
The one i have taken photo's from even has a few air hockey pucks in the base. How did they get there??
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1837.JPG)
Did not have much free time from work with all the special days lately so for now only a few photo's (of which you can never have enouth of) of the hydraulic base.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1834.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1835.JPG)
The big micro switcher things are the limit switchers on which the hydraulic moves on from left to right.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1836.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1847.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1846.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1852.JPG)
The big motorunit which moves the whole car
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1849.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1850.JPG)
The V-belt
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1851.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1853.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1854.JPG)
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Cab 2 don't move at all, seems to not getting any power in the hydraulic base unit, how can you check what's wrong with the power suply?
Checked the fuses by swapping them with the ones from the working cab 1, no luck
No buzzing or any sound at all, no sign of life, even the fans are dead.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1862.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1858.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1859.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1860.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1861.JPG)
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didn't have time to work on the cab recently, but found some useful things when I was surfing the web.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/ORshifter.jpg)
How to video on Sega Outrun Gear Installation by Travis Holcomb (very useful for noobs like me, so many thanks Travis! :spaceace: is he the same as TravisH, who sells those repro gears in the topic I can't read?) Yes he is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHkAdpb3e5c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHkAdpb3e5c)
and thanks to Etienne for recommend me on klov so I can post reply's there :spaceace:.... but somehow I still can't get into the sale link of the gears Etienne linked here earlier.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=272475 (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=272475)
so I don't understand this, is there some other rule, maybe more then 10 post or a time restriction, only member longer than a month or so, can see that topic.
Why is that topic restricted for only a few and not all klov members?
[edit] you need also 30 posting and 30 day full membership to see some sub forums! [edit]
Can someone copy/post new entries from that topic here? (Etienne has posted some here already so later entries are welcome especially mentioning when the gears become available)
Is there some US member here who is willing to buy those gears for me and ship it to the Netherlands? maybe via another dutch member who he knows/trust in case he won't because i'm a newbie here.
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Not much new info there, but i would try to PM Travis and explane your situation and link to this thread.
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Have send TravisH a pm, hopefully he is the right Travis and reply.
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hi etienne and reboot
i looking for Gear B rerpo or spare pieces nobody have one for me please to sell in metal or plastic Thanks you*
Here is the ebay link for the outrun repro gears. Seller is the same person as the one in the klov forum, so you don't have to have a klov account to buy those gears anymore. :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290924193078&item=290924193078 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290924193078&item=290924193078)
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Have send TravisH a pm, hopefully he is the right Travis and reply.
He replied but it's not him but a friend of his that sell those gears. He's called Stuart (instmkr is his klov name).
Must make a paypal account to buy those gears after all.
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Because the ebay page don't allow you to choose another shipping land other than US (forum member Zamoth attended me on that) I will forward Stuarts direct gmail address to any who asks for it.
(have asked Stuart if I could give his gmail address to others which I may, but don't know if it is a good idea to just post it here (spam), that's why I choose the pm way)
Stuart and Travis were very helpful. I asked Travis if he - by any chance- had other outrun parts laying around and he had, he has all the parts I miss/need for repairing my steering unit and is willing to sell those to me, so that's superrr. :spaceace:
When the order is placed Stuart will combine his gear kits with Travis parts and send them to me.
Or is it better to send them separately because of import duties (smaller package, lower value on package)
Travis video was very helpful in determine the needed parts because I don't know their names or part-numbers. Just told him I needed everything on his video from ..min till ... min. :)
but my paypal account isn't ready because my credit-card hasn't been verified yet by paypal so the order is stalled, damn hopefully it will be cleared quickly (any tips or warnings for using paypal is welcome, never have done business outside the Netherlands and never have used paypal)
-
Finally had some time to rearrange the cabs in my garage so that i could get to the front of the outrun cabs to look at the main pcb and monitor.
Some surprises. Both cabs don't have the same monitor, one is a hantarex mtc 9000 the other a hantarex polo, both 25" i gues.
cab 1
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2017.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2016.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2018.JPG)
cab 2
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2004.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2005.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2012.JPG)
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Because i don't have all the keys, missing 1 key for cab 2's bottom door where the 2nd small pcb and power suply are, it's difficult to photograph that part and to look for difference between the two cabs.
Seems everything is there (thought maybe i was missing a control pcb for the moving part on the non-moving cab)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2006.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2007.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2008.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2009.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2015.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2025.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2039.JPG)
Underneaf the base unit: also very dirty and some more air hockey pucks and some money ;D (cabs must have been near an air hockey unit, how else did the pucks came there? Have collected 8 pieces now i think)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2032.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2043.JPG)
note to myself: must clean that eventually (but how? don't have a lift that can lift 350 kg up)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/Handpallettruck.jpg)
Another difference between the cabs.
Cab 1
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2047.JPG)
cab 2
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2048.JPG)
Cab 1 has the 2nd monitor output for showing the game on a second monitor for the spectators. Cab 2 is missing that output.
Just noticed it today but cab 2 has a sticker above the wheel on the left which is almost gone
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2050.JPG)
is this original? if yes does someone has a better picture of it?
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2048.JPG)
Did you check behind that plate?
-
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2048.JPG)
Did you check behind that plate?
No, I haven't but will do maybe the extra output is just behind that metal plate.
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Stuart just mailed me that he has made international shipping possible now on his ebay page, so no need to ask me for his gmail address anymore.
-
I think the connectors are behind the plate :D
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Just noticed it today but cab 2 has a sticker above the wheel on the left which is almost gone
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2050.JPG)
is this original? if yes does someone has a better picture of it?
There was a pinball game called Police Force, maybe it's a promotional sticker for that game.
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Just ordered the gears kit from Stuart, hopefully shipping will be troublefree, unlike setting up my paypal account with my cc.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/Replacement%20Sega%20Outrun%20Gear%20Kit.jpg)
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Don't worry. I've never had anything get lost between the US and here. Very reliable really. (At least if he used USPS).
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Finally had some more time to look into why cab 2 wasn't moving. Had no idea where to start looking.
Red about easy fixes of cabs: fuses, so checked the fuses by switching the working cab ones into the non working one. No change, still not moving. What to check next?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1860.JPG)
More reading about repairing cabs and seeing repair movies on youtube followed till my head spinned.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/reading-for-dummies-cartoon1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/rcAnim.gif)
After seeing a few youtube movies about measuring psu's, i did some measuring myself.
The psu output 85V, a bit higher than the 80V it suppose to. Also on the working cab, so psu is good i presume.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2076.JPG)
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Next, i had to find the wire that give the dc elec. motor its juice, this i did by just randomly loose wires on the working cab. After it stopt moving, i know i had the right wire (The red and blue with brown molex plug, circled red on the picture. The green circled plug is the powerplug which gives the psu its juice).
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2077a.JPG)
Measure it if it still is around 85V which the psu gives out.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2085.JPG)
It red also 85,1 V, good. But where does the wire go to? Not directly to the dc motor as i thought. Can't follow the wire because it goes under the base to somewhere at the front where the game pcb is.
Than i decided to take a look from the other side, the wire that comes from the dc motor.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2075a.JPG)
Strange readings, at one point it measures briefly 80 V going down to zero and later readings it only red zero on both cabs, so it must be normal behavor???
(Only gives voltage at pcb command?)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2086.JPG)
I didn't get it/understand it, so here i was again at the starting point, what is the culprit. Not the psu it seems and not the wires, so it must be the dc motor itself.
Damn a costly thing if it indeed is the motor. Looked on internet to find a replacement nearby. could'n find one.
-
Than i thought of something the seller said to me when i asked him how he took care of the cabs. Just some greasing now and then and sometimes change the brush in the dc motor!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2072a.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2071.JPG)
Red the manual on howto take out the brush. Did that asap on mine and behold one of the brushes was broken, at least the spring of it.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2084.JPG) broken one
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2080.JPG) good one
Because i never had seen a brush i didn't know what i had to think of that. The rectangle part were both in 'good' shape, not worn down and the copper string wasn't broken either.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2082.JPG)
So the next day i went to my nearest hardware store and luckily they carry the brushes, just 5 euro for 2 pieces. Went home to replace them asap and
YES, Yes, it is alive again! ;D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/YES-8.jpg) because a nice girl is a hole lot prettier looking than me doing that ;)
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:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Succes !
A set of those brushes did save me buying a new washing machine a few weeks ago, when they reach a certain wearpoint, they disconnect the power and the motor looks dead.
actually that is good, because other wise the worn brushes would damage that rotor part under them
-
So what to do when your motion cabinet isn't moving (easy and cheap fixes):
- check fuses
- check the psu
- check the wires
- check the brushes
I'm very happy! Wouldn't know what else to do if that last thing wasn't the answer.
So now that that is fixed onto the next problem.
The color blue. Everything that is normally red onscreen, is blue, so hopefully it's just a wrongly put connector at either the pcb side or the monitor side... (what else could cause this??)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1778.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1792.JPG)
Just noticed it now, the color next to green, ligth green/blue and yellow are also changed
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1787.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1800.JPG)
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I know it's wrong but I like the blue ;D
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Got a package from US :)
Yes, finally the repro gears arrived (took a month to arrive) with some missing parts for the steering unit of cab 1
and off course an extra bill of around 34 euro's >:(
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2089.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2090.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2091.JPG)
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Tried to assemble the steering unit with the parts from TravisH and his video. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHkAdpb3e5c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHkAdpb3e5c))
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1698.JPG) how it was before
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2098.JPG) how it is now, populated
some random pictures I took while assembling
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2095.JPG) that small rectangle is called a "key"
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2096.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2097.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2094.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2100.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2101.JPG)
Found out I still miss some parts (the numbers are the sequence how to assemble the steering shaft where the B-gear sit)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2105a.JPG)
1,4 and 8 are missing (called washers or in dutch ringen). Emailed Travis and superrr, he has them also and will give them to Stuart, who will ship them with the 2nd package with gear kits. Very nice guys :spaceace:
Because I can't wait another month I looked for the washers locally. Found some substitute, not the same but usable. (will change them as soon as the 2nd package arrives).
The video was a great help in assembling. Got it to work but.... you guest right, another problem arose. :(
Because the previous owner missed a B-gear he made the steering unit working by putting a red rubber between the 2 shaft.
By turning the steering shaft (B-gear) the big A-gear shaft turned so the steering in the game worked. But because when you turn a gear clockwise the other connected gear will turn anti-clockwise. But the rubber will turn both shaft the same way, both clockwise or anti-clockwise.
To overcome this problem the previous owner had cut the wires for left turn and right turn and twisted them.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2107.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2111.JPG)
By reversing this mod now that there is a B-gear again, the steering is good again. Turning right will turn the car in the game to the right.
Just need to buy some shrinkable tubing to make nice safe connected wires again.
Luckily another problem easily solved.
-
My gear from cab 1 was missing parts and luckily Travis had those also.
But his small spring was also broken. So I went to the nearby hardware store looking for washers and a spring. When I showed them the spring, they searched the stockroom and hurray they had them!
So the gear is fixed :)
Some random picture of the gear
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2102.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2103.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2104.JPG)
Still the things to do:
- fixing color fault on cab 2
- find some light bulb (12V 1.2W) for the speed-o-meter dashboard
- soldering 1 light bulb holder, which is broken in half
- maybe paint the chairs (what are the original colors? You can't see it on the flyer)
I have seen grey, black (mine) and blue ones.
Which members also have an outrun dlx sitdown? What colors are your chairs?
How do you paint the chairs or the body of the car? (it's made from fibre glas?),
which color red? (ferrari red, is that a color?)
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Nice details !
glad you figured out what the previous owner did to "fix" his repair by twisting the wires.
it works ofcourse, but the Original setup is restored now ! Great !
As for the color problem, did you tried swapping the boardset with the other cabinet ?
that way you may narrow the problem down to the monitor or the boardset.
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Did a close look today at the monitor cable for the color problem. Here are the pictures
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2113.JPG)
Is this the culprit? Cut wires which are put together by tape
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2114.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2115.JPG)
But it is not the color wires i expected to be twisted (thought red and blue wires to be twisted),
white goes to black to the green plug and blue/white goes to white to the green plug.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2117.JPG)
And the other end of the wires which goes in the pcb
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2112.JPG)
The plug at the monitor (a Hantarex Polo 25") side
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2116a.JPG)
Does the sticker tell which wires goes where in the plug? If so then the red and blue wires are indeed put in the wrong hole of the plug.
And the cut wires are not the culprit.
What does the letters stand for?
H.S.= horizontal sync?
Comp= ?
V.S.= vertical sync?
Gnd = ground?
B.= blue?
G.= green?
R.= red?
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You guessed all of them right and Comp means composite sync (that is H and V-sync combined.
-
and indeed the R & B are in the wrong position, so that explanes the blue Ferrari :D
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You guessed all of them right and Comp means composite sync (that is H and V-sync combined.
and indeed the R & B are in the wrong position, so that explanes the blue Ferrari :D
Thanks for clearing that up. So how to get those wires out off the plug easy without a Molex" pin extractor (thanks for the buy tip Level42 :) )
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4483.0;attach=4125)
Will try it this weekend and if it doesn't go easy i'll wait for the extractor to arrive.
Oh and made a mistake with the pinout drawing, next picture is the right one. 2nd pinhole (= V.S.) isn't used.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2116b.jpg)
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That extractor won't work on that connector !!! That is a totally different type of connector which uses rectangular pins !
However you can easily click them out using a very small (watch repair) screwdriver. Just push down the metal "latch" of the pin and carefully pull the wire. If there is resistance don't force it, the latch is still locked and you have to do better to unlatch it....
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i can understand that you want to change the wires to the correct position, but to test i would just twist them at the cutted part.
they are cut already, so no more harm is done.
fixing them correctly can indeed be done by the method Level42 says
lets see if we got a red Ferrari again ! :spaceace:
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i can understand that you want to change the wires to the correct position, but to test i would just twist them at the cutted part.
they are cut already, so no more harm is done.
fixing them correctly can indeed be done by the method Level42 says
lets see if we got a red Ferrari again ! :spaceace:
The cut wires were for the steering ;D
EDIT:sorry, didn't see that picture with the wires under the tape :P
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That extractor won't work on that connector !!! That is a totally different type of connector which uses rectangular pins !
However you can easily click them out using a very small (watch repair) screwdriver. Just push down the metal "latch" of the pin and carefully pull the wire. If there is resistance don't force it, the latch is still locked and you have to do better to unlatch it....
Yes noticed that yesterday night when i did some cleaning and greasing (greasing has not led to a quieter machine sadly enough :( )
and wanted to try to change the wires at the end, fiddled for some minutes but didn't get it out so i quit and
i can understand that you want to change the wires to the correct position, but to test i would just twist them at the cutted part.
they are cut already, so no more harm is done.
fixing them correctly can indeed be done by the method Level42 says
lets see if we got a red Ferrari again ! :spaceace:
did what Etienne sugested, just twisted the wires which were cut already (probably because the previous owner had changed the original monitor and the plug on the new one was not the same.)
Was tired (2 a.m.) but wanted to know if our presumption was right and it is, a red ferrari again. ;D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1778.JPG) wrong
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG0081.JPG) fixed
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1787.JPG) wrong
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG0087.JPG) fixed
So hurray, all 3 moving cabs are 100% working again :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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you really should sell me one...
you can leave the wires like that, i'll fix those myself ;D
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you really should sell me one...
you can leave the wires like that, i'll fix those myself ;D
Sorry, no can do. I've promised the 2 cabs to my kids, each one get an outrun cab for their birthday.
Luckily i still can play it for a few years, because both my kids haven't left the house yet ;D
There where 2 others for sale on marktplaats recently and on ebay.de a standard sitdown was just sold for a very low price of just 151 euro, near the dutch borders.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/Outrun%20Standard%20sitdown.jpg)
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-SEGA-Outrun-Spielautomat-Out-Run-Sit-Down-Cabinet-/121133878381?pt=Automaten&hash=item1c34244c6d (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-SEGA-Outrun-Spielautomat-Out-Run-Sit-Down-Cabinet-/121133878381?pt=Automaten&hash=item1c34244c6d)
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Shift-stick on the wrong side....
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Shift-stick on the wrong side....
Is it?? Was wondering about that. The deluxe ones that I have, have the gear stick always on the left (like an English car, luckily it's just up and down. Can't change the side because they're not the same) but the standard ones can have them on either side (because both sides are identical you can change where you want the gear I presume, left for UK people, right for the rest of us)
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Don't know, I just meant it was on the wrong side for us ;)
Remember in Japan they drive on the wrong side of the road too so maybe it's because of that ?
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you really should sell me one...
You can, if you have the means, lent one for eurocade 2013 to play some round, I myself can't take it there regrettably.
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you really should sell me one...
You can, if you have the means, lent one for eurocade 2013 to play some round, I myself can't take it there because of the size, regrettably.
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Just some minor thing to do next such as changing light bulbs and soldering one small lightbulb pcb that was broken
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG0056.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG0089.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG0088.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG0055.JPG)
the lightbulb needed is a 12V 1.2W one. Local electronic store had them, but when changing it turned out to be 12V 1.0W. Still working but not so bright as original, so were can you buy 12V 1.2W lightbulbs cheap?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG0090.JPG)
However you can easily click them out using a very small (watch repair) screwdriver. Just push down the metal "latch" of the pin and carefully pull the wire. If there is resistance don't force it, the latch is still locked and you have to do better to unlatch it....
Because a pictures says more than a thousand words. Can you draw what i have to do? (even if you had told it in dutch i would have trouble "getting it") :-[
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG0074.JPG)
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Nice to see more Outrun DLX Owners
I was the same. It was the coolest game I played in the 80's and I guess would of been happy with the Upright, but driving games I like to sit down and always loved the sit in machines and wanted, so I had to have one of these :)
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Nice to see more Outrun DLX Owners
I was the same. It was the coolest game I played in the 80's and I guess would of been happy with the Upright, but driving games I like to sit down and always loved the sit in machines and wanted, so I had to have one of these :)
Hi, i haven't played many arcade cabs back in the days, but Outrun sitdown was luckily one of them and i was blown away then, that is why i wanted one and now i have 2 ;D
Do you have pictures of yours? What is the color of your chair??
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After asking a car repair shop which was nearby the store i was, what it would cost to paint the car and showed them the spoiler, which i had with me because i needed a new lightbulb for it, i decided not to paint the car yet (just the spoiler would cost me 100 euro! already :o)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2157.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2140.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2141.JPG)
I want to play it :)
So getting the cab together again i came across some problems i didn't noticed before. The steering wheel was a bit loose. It turned out all four screws were loose. (had to completely taken off the steering unit again after putting it back on. :'(
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2153.JPG)
2 screws in the middle under the steering wheel.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG1640.JPG)
2 screws above the speed-o-meter. Photo shows underside which is cracked on the right side at the start button
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2151.JPG)
When taken off the plastic case (very fragile) another 2 screws -one on both side each- to get the plexi speed-o-meter plate off off the wood
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2147.JPG)
Finally the four screws which hold the steering unit onto the wood.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2148.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2150.JPG)
Tighten them up. So that's it but after putting all back together again when i tried to screw the steering wheel on the shaft it wouldn't??? :(
No tight fit. Forgot the screws needed washers (was thinking were those belongs to, had taken the wheel loose a few weeks ago) :oops:
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So the steering unit is back together and on the cab, as is the spoiler. Damn the chair can't be put in place because of the spoiler (could get it out without removing the spoiler). So the spoiler had to go off again after fiddling half a hour with the chair >:(
Luckily got it together again without having parts leftovers at the end. (I normaly have parts left or loose parts when i take something apart and after a few weeks put it together again. Very bad memory :( That's why i post this thread so it can help me remember things).
When taking off the spoiler from the cab you have to take off the outrun plexi first (6 screws) to get to the small metal plates that the 2 screws screw onto to hold the spoiler to the cab.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2160.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2162.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2163.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2164.JPG)
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After asking a car repair shop which was nearby the store i was, what it would cost to paint the car and showed them the spoiler, which i had with me because i needed a new lightbulb for it, i decided not to paint the car yet (just the spoiler would cost me 100 euro! already :o)
Remember that set-up costs is the bulk part of any paint job.
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This is just the coolest cab on the face of the earth...
As an owner of a Deluxe yourself, I wondered if you have any info on an original white version of Outrun Deluxe (I believe it's Turbo Outrun Deluxe)?
Information on the net is hard to find on this one to say the least, I figured you as an expert might know some details about it :)
In my search of a Outrun Deluxe for a while which suits my wishes, I stumbled upon this white version, hence this post :)
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Remember that set-up costs is the bulk part of any paint job.
yes I know but still it will be a few hundreds of euro to paint the whole car and that I'm not willing to pay at the moment (still have to send the shop a photo of the complete car body to get a exact estimate of the price).
Have bought some paint but I'm not confident enough that it will be going to look better when I paint it myself. The exact red color is hard to find. Gamma, the diy store where I asked had taken the color meter out of use, because it wasn't accurate enough so had to check with color strips...
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This is just the coolest cab on the face of the earth...
As an owner of a Deluxe yourself, I wondered if you have any info on an original white version of Outrun Deluxe (I believe it's Turbo Outrun Deluxe)?
Information on the net is hard to find on this one to say the least, I figured you as an expert might know some details about it :)
In my search of a Outrun Deluxe for a while which suits my wishes, I stumbled upon this white version, hence this post :)
I'm no expert, just an owner of one. The simple problems I have come across so far (which are described here are for memory support and for other non technical owners like myself. There is too little information on this cab on the net) has taken me a lot of time where as an expert or even an advanced collector wouldn't even called it a challenge. Luckily for me no pcb problems, that would be a mission impossible.
About the white one, I believe a Dutch collector from Zoetermeer has one. His nickname is cameraman and he's a member on klov and on nozomi.nl.
here's a link to the klov topic: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=61252 (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=61252)
and the one on nozomi where he says who he is and that he has one: http://www.nozomi.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50&start=500 (http://www.nozomi.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50&start=500)
I bet he can tell you more about it :D
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People who don't have a klov membership can't see the pictures of the white turbo outrun deluxe sitdown cab, so here they are
with the 1st 2 photo from THE Outrun site http://outrun86.wordpress.com/outrun-follow-up-history/ (http://outrun86.wordpress.com/outrun-follow-up-history/)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/20120530-233749.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/20120530-233810.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/865292-WTOside2.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/865293-WTOside.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/871625-TurboDeluxesideF40.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/871627-TurboDeluxeside1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/871629-TurboDeluxe3.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/871630-TurboDeluxesidenr3.jpg)
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Ferrari's should be red.
;D
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Ferrari's should be red.
;D
think so too, like the red one a lot more, wouldn't trade although it's rarer. (don't like the front sides)
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About the white one, I believe a Dutch collector from Zoetermeer has one. His nickname is cameraman and he's a member on klov and on nozomi.nl.
I bet he can tell you more about it :D
Just red Poldercade topic on his roadtrip getting Afterburner dlx and G loc https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2209.0 (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2209.0)
and there cameraman replied (2nd page 4e from below), so if he's the same as the one on klov and nozomi he's a member here also, although not very active.
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Whooh, more than a year already, time flies.
Tried my outruns today and *bummer* one of the two wouldn't start :(
No screen and sound of the game only a crackle sound which came from the back of the monitor.
Flashes comes of the other end of the anode cap (red arrow)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/monitor%201.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/monitor%202.JPG)
Is this a simple problem or a difficult one?
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Well the good news is that the fly-back (HVT) is available, f.i. Here:
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=206_210
Or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hantarex-Polo-Flyback-Transformer/121174986426?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D32e41de663b945fa80ef75b49e022929%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20131003132420%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D380496326161&rt=nc
Maybe there are even European sources ?
However, maybe it also took out some other parts.....I am not a Polo expert regretfully.
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So not a simple problem then :(
A burning smell came out of the back. 1st time on, i saw a vertical line on the leftside of the monitor. Later when i tried it again nothing on screen anymore only flashes and crackle sounds at the back. So more things are burned i think.
Can you RGE guys organize a workshop Howto discharging a monitor/howto work savely with a monitor at the comming meeting?
Would help me alot and many others aswell i think. (most feared thing to do as an noob in this hobby)
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Mmmm, maybe I can integrate that in my workshop :)
How hard is it to swab the entire monitor on a OR deluxe ? maybe we can temporarily put in another 25" ?
About the shifter on the other OR Deluxe: I think you will need to exchange two wires reboot :)
The sticker is right and so is the position of the stick so it must be two swapped wires for low and High :)
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Maybe the wire is loose from the flyback causing Sparks ?
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Yeah that could be...
Maybe a bad soldering under that rubber cap....but from what Reboot describes it might be more serious.
Polo monitors are relatively modern and discharge the tube at power down but in this case.....I don't dare to guarantee it...
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Just as a reference:
http://www.organizedmassconfusion.com/hantarex-polo-maintenance/
The guy who wrote that posted about (Mecha) it here:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=249495
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Have made a movie of it will upload it later.
Swapping the monitor could be a solution to get it working on time for RGE 2014 but i also didn't hear the game music so hopefully the pcb isn't fried also, then a monitor swap won't help either.
The bigger question is how did it got broken? Is my garage too humid or too cold or did it break because i have moved it around.
Haven't played it for a year. (must a cab be on regularly?)
Do I need to put a moisture absorber in the cab by the monitor or is that a bad thing to do?
Is it a bad thing to power the cab on again, now that I now that the monitor is broken (can it do more damage to other parts)?
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My guess is that some Fuse blew because of the monitor problems and that this is the reason you don't have the music anymore.
Check the fuses "around" the power supply.
I would disconnect the monitor from the power connector before powering it up again.
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Just checked the manual, it says there is a breaker that pops out when the machine is overloaded. Maybe this breaker came out ?
You just have to push it back, but first disconnect the monitor :)
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Do I need to put a moisture absorber in the cab by the monitor or is that a bad thing to do?
I would say: don't do that if it's the kind of moisture absorber that's filling itself with water and that you have to empty regularly.
Big chances are either you'll forget to empty it or, like me: totally forget that it's inside the cab when you'll move it :arrow: that's bad, really bad…
That stuff ain't water it's really acid and will damage every metal parts it touches + your hands.
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Reboot I may have a monitor for you at eurocade.
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sorry for the delay but here are the clips of the monitor problem
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/outrun_error_2.flv (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/outrun_error_2.flv)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/outrun_error_1.flv (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/outrun_error_1.flv)
Haven't had the chance to look further into it, but thanks for all the reaction :)
Reboot I may have a monitor for you at eurocade.
Thanks, hopefully there is nothing else wrong with it so a temporarily monitor swap will make it possible that the 2nd outrun deluxe will be attending RGE/Eurocade 2014 also.
On that note, I don't know how to set the game on freeplay. I presume some dipswitch settings but I don't have the hardware thing that you guys put outside the cab to simulate the coins input. (don't know how it is called, I want one!)
Do I need to put a moisture absorber in the cab by the monitor or is that a bad thing to do?
I would say: don't do that if it's the kind of moisture absorber that's filling itself with water and that you have to empty regularly.
Big chances are either you'll forget to empty it or, like me: totally forget that it's inside the cab when you'll move it :arrow: that's bad, really bad…
That stuff ain't water it's really acid and will damage every metal parts it touches + your hands.
Sounds just like me, I always forget those things, so a no-go for me then.
Mmmm, maybe I can integrate that in my workshop :)
How hard is it to swab the entire monitor on a OR deluxe ? maybe we can temporarily put in another 25" ?
About the shifter on the other OR Deluxe: I think you will need to exchange two wires reboot :)
The sticker is right and so is the position of the stick so it must be two swapped wires for low and High :)
The screws that holds the frame are in a tight spot at the front so you must somehow open the front also to get those screws out I think. (dare not to do it myself at the moment, don't know what can be touched and what not around a monitor)
The shifter cable has indeed been put on wrong when I put it back in place (dumb mistake caused by hurry :D)
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Reboot, as long as you don't put your hand around the anode cap (the rubber cap) on the CRT you will be just fine.
It is very likely the monitor is actually already discharged as it normally does during power down BUT since it "blew" it -might- have not discharged for some reason.
As long as it is relatively easy to open the cover to replace the monitor it should be possible. We need to know what connectors are used though.
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Something else. I red somewhere on klov that the 3d printed gears I got from TravisH are NOT to be used with the original springs because those are too strong and will damage the 3d printed gears.
(I think TravisH himself had mention it on his sell page on klov).
Too bad because I had bought an original spring to complete mine and had put them in my now broken 2nd outrun. That steering wheel feels much nicer than my 1st unit where I have put the new springs in which came with the gears. It feels too loose to my taste.
Have others bought those replica gears and springs from TravisH? How do you feel about those springs?
Don't get me wrong, I like TravisH service but only too bad about those weaker springs.
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Just watched the movies....be sure not to touch there ! :)
Nice fireworks going on and I would definitely say that fly-back is toast.
Because of the sparking I'm pretty sure the fly-back is actually not even able to build up the High Voltage.
Anyone know a source for Polo fly-backs in Europe ?
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So, if you disconnect the power to the monitor, does "the rest" of the machine start up ? That is, does it "play blind" ?
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Reboot, as long as you don't put your hand around the anode cap (the rubber cap) on the CRT you will be just fine.
But what about the other side of the cable of the anode cap (where it flashes in the video) Can you touch that side or the cable which end in the anode cap?
Is the flyback unit you mentioned earlier an easy thing to swap?
oh no, now that I think of it, you have to discharge the monitor to get the anode cap of the monitor else you can't swap the flyback unit. stupid me :oops:
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Just watched the movies....be sure not to touch there ! :)
Oeps, you already answered my question. Must you never touch that thing or only now that it caught fire.
Thus both side of the cable where one side is the anode cap and the other side is the flyback unit are a no-touch?
So, if you disconnect the power to the monitor, does "the rest" of the machine start up ? That is, does it "play blind" ?
Will hopefully try to check it tomorrow.
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Just watched the movies....be sure not to touch there ! :)
Nice fireworks going on and I would definitely say that fly-back is toast.
Because of the sparking I'm pretty sure the fly-back is actually not even able to build up the High Voltage.
Anyone know a source for Polo fly-backs in Europe ?
I agree 100%, that flyback is toast! ;D
it looks like a dead short in there..
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What do we need or need to know about the monitor swap? I don't like to bring a monitor in vain;)
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Reboot, can you make pictures of the cables and more important the connectors that go to the monitor ?
That way Anunaki can see if his K7000 can connect straight to it (I think this will be essential).
Also, is it "easy" to remove the entire monitor ? That is, can you open the top of the cabinet or so....we have no clue :)
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what kind of monitor is in there right now? A Hantarex Polo 25?
I have one of those in my MK2 so I can test if it's easy connectable to the K7000A(power and signal)
I'll do some testing over here, please check if a swap if doable
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what kind of monitor is in there right now? A Hantarex Polo 25?
I think so. Here are some pictures I just took. (will shrink the pictures tomorrow, don't have the software at hand now)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2677.jpg)
just tought that that was the power cable of the monitor... NOT! ??? Have to look again, how does the power cable of the monitor look like?
Powered the cab on, monitor still flashed so wrong cable unplugged, but now I know nothing else is broken. The cab still moves and the game starts because I heared the music. :lol:
Checked the fuse
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2678.jpg)
seems ok and because of above I think it's still good.
Here are more pictures of the monitor(frame)
The farthest screws of the frame are difficult to get out from the back (see red arrow in pictures) because they are in a very narrow place.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2673.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2674.jpg)
Seems the frame is from the original monitor setup and not from this polo.
So if the frame doesn't have to be removed but only the polo monitor then it is the question will the swap monitor fit the frame. And how difficult it is to swap the monitor I have no idea
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2675.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2676.jpg)
The rgb cable plug
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78649287/IMAG2679.jpg)
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OK...at least that looks like a typical Hantarex plug, pretty sure that won't fit on the 7000 right Patrick ?
This could be a tough cooky. The monitor really needs to be fixed tight because of the moving cab :S
If only anyone would have a Polo fly-back....soldering that in is not too terrible much work, but as mentioned, there can be further damage...however, as long as it _tries_ to spark I think the surrounding HV parts are probably still OK.
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It looks like the voltage differs between the K7000a and the Polo.
I didn't have time to fully check this out, but most important question is if the swap is possible at all.
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Sorry to say, but I don't have the time and knowledge to get this fixed on time by me, so hopefully the working one will hold its own till and beyond eurocade2014. And one day I get it fixed.
The little time I have these few days I need to use to ready the working one for eurocade.
What were the requirements for the cabs again? Freeplay I remembered, but do I need to do that or the eurocade guys because I don't have that special switch. What else?
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AFAIK it is just a dip-switch setting to get it to free-play so we can do that at the event as long as we have access to the PCB.
Chris might have a monitor for the non-working machine, since we have to drag that one out anyway, it might still be worth to put it in the van anyway while we're at it.
I'll PM you about the pick up but so far it is as we discussed before.
Oh, and packing the cabs is a good idea of course, if needed.
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Out Run Sega, 1986
Option Switch Settings
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
DIP Switch No. 1 Settings
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Option
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
On On On On On On On On Free Play
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Sorry to say, but I don't have the time and knowledge to get this fixed on time by me.
Not a problem, just transport it after EC14 to my place and i'll fix it, you dont need to worry about it anymore once you give it to me ;) ;D ;D
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Outrun is a true classic, I'd like to have the upright in my gameroom one day
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Outrun is a true classic, I'd like to have the upright in my gameroom one day
For real, I could get my hands on an cabaret this week but I would like to have it in the upright-version....or as DX of course...
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OK there will be a spare monitor for the broken one brought by ChrisChris. It needs a little bit of patching up that we'll do on thursday but should work other ways.
Reboot, I'll give you a call...
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Is a german member willing to buy this for me because the seller won't send it to the Netherlands:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Control-Panel-fur-Sega-Out-Run-Standgerat-/161404299499?pt=Automaten&hash=item25947228eb (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Control-Panel-fur-Sega-Out-Run-Standgerat-/161404299499?pt=Automaten&hash=item25947228eb)
and send or even better somehow get it over here?