Outrun - help!

[mlynn1974]

I have won an Outrun Deluxe Upright machine on eBay! The previous owner said it was working originally, but hasn't been working for a while. The cabinet is in poor condition and needs restoration. I spent 3 hours dismantling it, so the cabinet is stable and movable by one person. I have the Owner's Manual so thought that I could bring it back to life.
 
The first problem was that the baseboard broke off completely when the removal company were collecting it! The cabinet has had water damage at some point, so the baseboard is going in the bin. The front panel has been removed for access and, yes, no Outrun diagonal sticker emblem.
 
For safety I have removed all of the components except the monitor and put them in a safe, warm, dry room.
i.e. pedal assembly, dashboard, screen mask, glass screen protector, bezel, motherboard, wiring loom, power supplies and rotten amp board.
 

I have a few questions someone here might be able to help me with:
 
1. The wiring loom is very complicated.
There is a 10 pin connecter (4 yellow, 4 white) with one yellow pin disconnected. It is connected next to the grey connector on the bottom motherboard. Should all of the yellow wires be connected? Does anyone have a pinout for this connector?
 
2. The power supply has 2 fuses disconnected. There are 4 connected wires which should all have 2A fuses according to the rating plate. One of them has a missing fuse (no wonder the machine wasn't working!).
 
What is the correct configuration for the power supply? There is a secondary transformer also on the power supply board which goes to a 6 pin connector (3 purple, 3 orange). What is that for? What is the correct way to earth the power supply and connect it from the mains?
 
3. The screen has a lot of burn-in. I would like to replace this with a LCD TV connected via SCART.
The circuit diagram shows R, G, B, Sync and Ground. I have a friend who is good with electronics and he should be able to wire up a SCART socket for me. Is it possible to connect Outrun to a TV?
 
Can I *cut* the wires from the screen to get the wiring loom out of the cabinet and be able to remove the heavy old CRT?
 
4. There is a 3 pin cable which "fell out of the bottom of the machine" (according to the delivery guy). It has a label on it that says BB. Does anyone know what that is for?
 
5. Where could I get a set of tamper proof screwdrivers to open the speaker\marquee part of the case?

6. I can't get the accelerator pedal of the old base-board which is now lying out in the rain in my back garden.

Replacement parts required:
1. The gear lever is stuck on high. It won't hold in the low gear position. Any ideas on how I could fix it?
2. I need a hi-lo plate for the gear lever.
3. Ferrari emblem for the steering wheel.
4. Outrun map for the bezel.

I am thinking of getting a professional joiner to restore the cabinet. It needs new T-molding, about 4 inches
repaired at the bottom left and right and a new base preferably with 2 fixed and 2 movable castors. If I can
get rid of that old, heavy CRT then castors might be suitable.

Ideally I would like a fully working, light-weight, electrically safe Outrun machine.

I wonder how much weight can be saved by binning the CRT and replacing it with an LCD TV.

If the power supply and wiring loom is too complicated to repair or replace then
I'd settle for the cabinet restored and replace it with a PC running Mame and Opti-arc for
the controller, but I take it that MAME cannot do force feedback on crash?
FinalBurnFF has never worked for me with various configurations on a Thrustmaster steering wheel.

Any help on any of these points would be great.

[ckong]

wow, that are a lot of technical questions. After I read it, my thoughts are that after transport you ended up with a dog! You probably didn't pay too much for it I guess. You know that it would be far more easy to answer your questions if you supplied pictures with it. 

ad 2. I hope for you also that the missing fuse is the reason why the game doesn't work, but don't count on it, you will probably encounter (many) more technical issues).

ad 3. About using a LCD TV, please DON't. Outrun is a lowres game which will look very ugly on  LCD TV (without upscaler etc.), if there will be a picture at all. Really, a LCD TV for a classic game cab is a NoNo.
On the other side, if you use a CRT TV with RGB scart out, you will have a authentic game image. Weight saving should be no reason to do it otherwise. so use the original monitor or a CRT TV, nothing else.

ad 6. Please put a plastic cover over the base-board, and use a hammer 


Again, please post pics, the more the better.

[DarthNuno]

Hi mlynn1974 and welcome here 

As ckonk said... add few pictures, it'll help 

[Equites]

Boy, you have some questions there that only a beginner would ask.  You have come to the right place to learn, however, using a LCD display instead of CRT is a big no no.  If you can, restore the machine to its former glory using as much authentic parts as possible.  This way, you will enjoy the experience more and the machine will retain value.  Add a LCD screen and it will only be worth its parts.

Welcome anyway, I just joined too, but a programmer for 30 years, electronics engineer and absolute retro gamer who lived in the arcades in the 80's and early 90's so I got a head start.

scr33n - You are an absolute cab king.  I have read your scratch builds and much respect.

DarthNuno - I absolutely love Galaxian3 - my fave game of all time.  I have EVERYTHING except the real thing (unlike you!).  However I do have a real Starblade machine!

[mlynn1974]

Thanks for your comments everyone.

Yes, here is the cabinet I won. It looks OK like that:



The bezel and screen are quite clean.


Note the red start button. All the uprights I've seen have green circular start buttons.
The control panel is at a strange angle. I'm wondering how it got like that.

Here is some of the case damage at the front:


Here is the power supply:

I gave the yellow sticker a clean. I tried to clean the metal with a sponge and a small amount of water but it hardly made an impact on years of dirt. Should the components be cleaned with clean, dry paint brush to get rid of the dust then the base cleaned with Brasso? That metal base is heavy.

And here are the fuses:


This is the orginal configuration from the owner. Oh dear! F2 has no fuse.
F3 and F4 don't have solid clasps. That will need attention first.

[Equites]

Ok - for a start you have two power supplies there, the original one with the large transformer on the metal base, and a newer JAMMA style power supply (Hantarex?).  It is obvious that the original power supply failed and they just chucked in another rather than try to repair the original.  So, you would probablly be wasting your time looking at those fuses.

If you have a multimeter, you could start by checking for 5V and 12V output from the black power supply, however, BE CAREFUL 240V also here and not shielded!  If in doubt please do not tamper with this.  If I were close by I would have helped you out, where are you anyhow?

[mlynn1974]

Hi - I'm in Scotland. I don't think the secondary switching power supply replaces the old one.

I've seen pictures of 2 other machines with a secondary power supply in there (Giddygoon's and another restoration):
http://www.arcadelifestyle.net/forforum/giddy/DSC00264.JPG
http://www.system16.com/cybercade/games/outrun.html

If someone has an Outrun machine please let me know how it should be wired up.

To get the wiring loom out of there so I can get a joiner to look at repairing the cabinet, I cut the wires going to the monitor. I might wire it up to a 5 pin header for easy swapping with another monitor. It looks as if the broken wire I mentioned going to the PCB should be +5V so it wouldn't have worked anyway. I should probably try to get a new wiring loom and possibly a new power supply.

I think it would be excellent to have the power supply for Outrun very thoroughly documented as it can be dangerous and some of these old machines are a mess. I'm going to get an electrician to have a look at it though because the secondary power supply isn't connected to any input source.

For the upper marquee\speaker part a Torx T15 seems to remove the screws. I don't want to strip or damage them by using the wrong type of screwdriver.  Sega's documentation says Screwdriver type (M4): 540-0018, (M5): 540-0017.

[level42]

It would be a complete sin to put an LCD in that cab.

How to wire it can be found in the manual:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Manuals_and_Schematics/Outrun%20Upright%20Manual.pdf

[mlynn1974]

Yes, I have that manual already. The wiring diagram is good but it doesn't really show the correct way to wire up the PSU itself.

There are missing connections on my PSU board to the switching power supply. As Equities said it looks as if "they just chucked in another rather than try to repair the original", but I am sure the switching power supply should be there. The main transformer looks as if it is used to power the CRT. The simple question is how should the power supply board be wired and earthed to the mains? The switching power supply has a variable current switch. What should that be set to?

[italiandoh]

The simple question is how should the power supply board be wired and earthed to the mains? The switching power supply has a variable current switch. What should that be set to?

Well, usually that switch has two options: 110 or 220 V AC, mainly for USA or Europe operation. It depends on what is the input voltage to the switcher.

Matteo

[Giddygoon]

Hi there!


Well first of all you have got a lot of work to be done to get that cab back to mint condition! I was sad to see the base plate distroyed!!!! Red rocket retro were doing Outrun cab replicas flat pack to order sometime back!  They also did me a repro stripe and oval stickers too, from pictures I took from my own cab! They should if there still going have the files? If you want original sega outrun parts then go to videogameparts.com there got the green button you need,pedals, and the emblem too.
I don't think you will be able to save the cab with that much damage, so either build the cab from scratch or look out for another one that's got less damage!! Also I think you may have a hacked loom, I did! If you're gonna mame it then you'll want to get an Apac from ultimarc not optipac for the steering and pedals. And one last thing don't put a LCD in there, big mistake.... Tv via VGA to scart or replacement arcade monitor, then get Arcade Vga..... Looks the best!

Hope that's helped

giddygoon

[mlynn1974]

Thanks Giddygoon for all your comments. I will probably buy a couple of spare parts next year when things are calmer. The green button seems to be out of stock at the moment. I'd like one of them.

>If you're gonna mame it then you'll want to get an Apac from ultimarc not optipac for the steering and pedals.
Can you describe how to wire this in detail please? Is it possible to get force feedback working on the wheel with Mame?

Red Rocket Retro don't seem to have a working website at the moment. I tried http://www.redrocketretro.co.uk/ and .com but no luck. Do you have an email address for them? You can send me a PM if you do.

An electrician showed me how to connect the secondary transformer. He suggested that "it might be knackered" because it was disconnected. I won't be able to test that until I can get the cabinet restored. The wiring loom looks as if it might have been hacked.

I am sure I will keep a CRT in there. The problems with this screen are burn in and additional weight.

A week ago my house was damaged by a storm so until that's repaired I won't be doing anything with my Outrun machine for a while.

[Giddygoon]

Hi There!

Yeah, Redrocketretro have gone under!! if you email me @ Johnnybegoodalright@hotmail.com and I will send you a wiring diagram for the Apac!!

it took me a while to sort that out and the pedals are a pain!!

any questions let me know!