Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Technical Area => Topic started by: blackie63 on February 19, 2015, 09:51:19 PM
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I soon have a couple of cabs coming from u.s.a will this be good to use for them (http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p616/blackie631/Mobile%20Uploads/20150219_204701_zpsmanq0nr6.jpg) (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/blackie631/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150219_204701_zpsmanq0nr6.jpg.html) im pretty sure it is but dont want to make a mistake when they arrive.
thank you :shock:
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It's not isolating, but it shouldn't matter. Would seem to be OK to run two 110V cabs on 220V.
Paul.
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depending on what cabinet ofcourse.
1000 watts max, so i think more than 2 cabinets under normal operation.
ofcourse its never good to stress this to the max, but i think 750 continue should not be a problem.
Two cabinets sounds very safe in this setup.
best thing to do is hook up a cabinet, and measure the real wattage drawn by it.
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Best thing to do is simply look inside the cab if it's possible to switch the power supply from 115VAC to 230VAC and install a European wire & plug.
What cabs are you getting ?
Autotransformers have one drawback:
IF they fail they can pass the input (230VAC in this case) to the output. A cab that expects 115VAC won't like 230VAC.
True, it's a theoretical and not often happening risk but it does need to be mentioned.
This is another reason to try and switch the PSU inside the cab to 230VAC (Apart from being more practical anyway, no clumsy external box around your cabs).
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From FrizzleFriend at KLOV:
Most 19" classic raster games come in at 100-120 watts. Most 19" vector games come in at closer to 200-220 watts. Most 25" raster games come in at about 150-160 watts. You can do the math from there.
Here´s a LINK (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=109536) to the thread
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Best thing to do is simply look inside the cab if it's possible to switch the power supply from 115VAC to 230VAC and install a European wire & plug.
What cabs are you getting ?
Autotransformers have one drawback:
IF they fail they can pass the input (230VAC in this case) to the output. A cab that expects 115VAC won't like 230VAC.
True, it's a theoretical and not often happening risk but it does need to be mentioned.
This is another reason to try and switch the PSU inside the cab to 230VAC (Apart from being more practical anyway, no clumsy external box around your cabs).
i have a atari space duel coming i think the power setting can be changed from inside the cab (not played one since leaving atari in end of 1982 ) and centuri eagle (rip off moon cresta) :lol:
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From FrizzleFriend at KLOV:
Most 19" classic raster games come in at 100-120 watts. Most 19" vector games come in at closer to 200-220 watts. Most 25" raster games come in at about 150-160 watts. You can do the math from there.
Here´s a LINK (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=109536) to the thread
thanks will give it a read :)
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Don't know about the Centuri but the Atari cabs of that era can all be set to 230VAC very easily.
You only need to switch a jumper connector on the power brick but since these are cabs from the U.S. the right jumper connector for 230VAc is probably not in the machine.
However, you can easily change the jumpers on the existing jumper connector. Then all you need is replace the U.S. mains cable and plug and done.
One tip: do clearly mark the connector that it's for 230Vac. The colors of the wires normally indicate what voltage the jumper connector is for so someone might get confused should you ever sell the cab in the future.
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Oh one more thing: replace the mains fuse with one (about) half the value of the original.
Since voltage is double in Europe the current is half of that in the US.
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Oh one more thing: replace the mains fuse with one (about) half the value of the original.
Since voltage is double in Europe the current is half of that in the US.
thanks for the help ;D
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I'll see if I can find a picture of the modded plug....
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Any help appreciated getting it converted to uk power thanks :)
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I'll see if I can find a picture of the modded plug....
Going to have a look at this machines power supply do you have any idea how i can switch it to 230 vac ? :)
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OK, what color wires are the voltage selection plug. It's a plug with some very short wires going from one pin to the other (several) on it.
My guess is they will be yellow. There might be other plugs too, please let me know which color those (or that one) is/are.
In doubt, post a picture of the top of the power brick....
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Here's a picture of the schematics.
AFAIK this is the same for all Atari power bricks of this era, but I took the pic from the Space Duel manual.
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As you can see the yellow wires plug is for the 120V so that is probably what you will find installed.
You need to go to the BROWN wires set-up.
This is for 240VAC. This is a bit old-school as one upon a time we had 220VAC on mainland Europe and 240VAC in the UK but this has been "leveled out" to 230VAC on both sides of the North sea. (Wether in reality this has been done I will leave out here).
Anyway, even in main-land Europe it's best to use the 240VAC set-up.
Now if you compare the brown and the yellow set-up, you need to make the following changes:
- pull out pin 4
- remove pin 6 and put that in the position for pin 4
You're done.
You do need to isolate the removed pin 4 though, so put some heat-shrink or other GOOD isolation around it...you do NOT want to make contact with this pin with your hand or any metal around....
Ideally you'd cut of one part of that wire set and remove one "section" of it (cut it off) and then make the bridge directly between pin 1 and 8.
Again, once you completed this do clearly mark the plug that it is for 240VAC because the yellow color of the wires make you (or any future possible owners) confused about it....
Doing this from the info on-line, no guarantees and you're doing this at your own risk of course :)
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As you can see the yellow wires plug is for the 120V so that is probably what you will find installed.
You need to go to the BROWN wires set-up.
This is for 240VAC. This is a bit old-school as one upon a time we had 220VAC on mainland Europe and 240VAC in the UK but this has been "leveled out" to 230VAC on both sides of the North sea. (Wether in reality this has been done I will leave out here).
Anyway, even in main-land Europe it's best to use the 240VAC set-up.
Now if you compare the brown and the yellow set-up, you need to make the following changes:
- pull out pin 4
- remove pin 6 and put that in the position for pin 4
You're done.
You do need to isolate the removed pin 4 though, so put some heat-shrink or other GOOD isolation around it...you do NOT want to make contact with this pin with your hand or any metal around....
Ideally you'd cut of one part of that wire set and remove one "section" of it (cut it off) and then make the bridge directly between pin 1 and 8.
Again, once you completed this do clearly mark the plug that it is for 240VAC because the yellow color of the wires make you (or any future possible owners) confused about it....
Doing this from the info on-line, no guarantees and you're doing this at your own risk of course :)
thank you very much for taking the time to put that information together for me ,i have the terrible deadly man flu at the moment :'( (or a cold you big poofta as my girlfriend says ) :shock: will hopefully have time to get machine out and take some photos of power supply and connectors over the weekend ;D
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able to peer into back of cabs now nearly back to normal :lol:
(http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p616/blackie631/Mobile%20Uploads/20150703_163648_zpsxfj85kpg.jpg) (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/blackie631/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150703_163648_zpsxfj85kpg.jpg.html)
the bottom of my space duel which has the 120v yellow connector :)
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just out of interest what is the pin out on the connector cant see anything to indicate 1 thanks :)
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Use a small torch light and look closely, pins are all numbered.
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Use a small torch light and look closely, pins are all numbered.
thank you kindly shall look tomorrow :)
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As you can see the yellow wires plug is for the 120V so that is probably what you will find installed.
You need to go to the BROWN wires set-up.
This is for 240VAC. This is a bit old-school as one upon a time we had 220VAC on mainland Europe and 240VAC in the UK but this has been "leveled out" to 230VAC on both sides of the North sea. (Wether in reality this has been done I will leave out here).
Anyway, even in main-land Europe it's best to use the 240VAC set-up.
Now if you compare the brown and the yellow set-up, you need to make the following changes:
- pull out pin 4
- remove pin 6 and put that in the position for pin 4
You're done.
You do need to isolate the removed pin 4 though, so put some heat-shrink or other GOOD isolation around it...you do NOT want to make contact with this pin with your hand or any metal around....
Ideally you'd cut of one part of that wire set and remove one "section" of it (cut it off) and then make the bridge directly between pin 1 and 8.
Again, once you completed this do clearly mark the plug that it is for 240VAC because the yellow color of the wires make you (or any future possible owners) confused about it....
Doing this from the info on-line, no guarantees and you're doing this at your own risk of course :)
its done success ;D game running fine no problems ,i do have one question as it has no flourescent light in the marquee do i need to change anything in that area ?
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Great !
- Well three possibilties:
1) tube
2) starter
3) ballast
Or ANY combination of the above...... ;D
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need to work out if ballast needs changing or starter or flourescent tube ????
oh the zacarria mvs is a work in progress ;D
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I recently had a bad ballast killing a brand new tube....you can measure the ballast.....
Also.....there is a search option on this forum.....doesn't hurt to use it now and then ;);)
https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=5359.msg89487#msg89487
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I guess this is more or less a final step by step process to check fluorescent lighting:
0) check wiring up to marquee area and between parts....check tube sockets and starter socket
1) measure ohms on ballast. If (way) too low, dead ballast, replace. If Ok according to Bob's drawing:
2) replace starter. OK ? good, Not OK ? Go to step 3)
3) replace tube. OK ? Good. Not OK ? Check all sockets again....
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great and clear step by step troubleshooting guide! :spaceace:
I've beeen waiting for years for your arcade book to be released, any dates?
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Thats actually not a bad idea.
Let everyone who has a specialty on DLF take a subject and lets create the ultimate book !
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I guess this is more or less a final step by step process to check fluorescent lighting:
0) check wiring up to marquee area and between parts....check tube sockets and starter socket
1) measure ohms on ballast. If (way) too low, dead ballast, replace. If Ok according to Bob's drawing:
2) replace starter. OK ? good, Not OK ? Go to step 3)
3) replace tube. OK ? Good. Not OK ? Check all sockets again....
really appreciate all the help from you andre and others here who have helped me out thank you guys ;D