Tempest - bring it back to life

[ckong]

Voltage check results of the power brick (connector J5):

measured 14.04V DC on pin 1, 2 and 3. Should according schematic be 10.6V DC. Measured voltage is 32% higher.

measured 6.1V AC on pin 8/9. Is according schematic.

measured 23.5V AC on pin 10/11 and 11/13 and 47V AC on pin 10/13. Should be 50V AC . Measured value is 6% 'too low'.

I know that the DC values are unregulated values. Is this also the case for the AC values and is the measured 47V AC too low?

The marquee lights gets 120V AC and is shining nice and bright. I love the Tempest marquee, it's so out of the ordinary. 

[joeks]

Good job Erik! Interesting to read.

[ckong]

I checked the AR II board and it is 100% working, all correct voltages.  

Then I connected the game PCB. At first it seemed dead, but after a bit of jiggling on the connectors, the leds came up and I was able to measure the correct voltages (5V DC was a nice 5.02V DC!). But it's obvious that I have to pay some attention to the connectorsc cleaning, maybe replacing. Let's see.

And then I wanted to power up the deflection board, model P314, this one:



I checked input voltage, which is 48V AC, and I disconnected the game board. So only power cable was connected. I switched on the cabinet, I heard the monitor come alive (yeah), but after 2 seconds, fuse F100 and F101 blew (again, they were also blown when I received the game). Hmm, something is wrong. I will have to read up on that, but maybe someone has a clue?  

Edit: possible cause could be transistor's cases shorting to ground.

[ckong]

I took the monitor out of the Tempest (I want to pull the HV board and test it in the Black Widow cab to see if that solves the BW problem) and I noticed just a tiny, tiny bit of fosfor burn.    Well, was to be expexted of course, I wonder if one will see a lot of it during gameplay.



Does someone by any chance has a spare tube? (yeah, keep on dreaming).

The spinner knob isn't original, but fortunately I still had a spare Breakout CP, which has a nice, like new, spinner knob that will go on the Tempest CP. So, originality rules. 

[ajhippel]

tyrems tempest tube has similiar burns - the good thing is: it can not be seen because of 2 reasons...

there is no light background like on an standard-monitor (e.g. the blue backgroundcolor in qbert)..

and the dark bezel hides a lot as well

[ckong]

 

Yeah, I already noticed that you can't see the spots when the bezel is placed before it. That's a good thing! 

[blackie63]

my space duel has a tempest monitor in with those same burn marks ,no problem because the smoked glass hides it very well cant notice it at all 

[ckong]

Good to hear,  guys. 

[ckong]

Installed a LV2000 light on the deflection board today:










  Easy peacy.

[level42]

Then I connected the game PCB. At first it seemed dead, but after a bit of jiggling on the connectors, the leds came up and I was able to measure the correct voltages (5V DC was a nice 5.02V DC!). But it's obvious that I have to pay some attention to the connectorsc cleaning, maybe replacing. Let's see.

Remember the words of Yoda: Do or do not, there is no try.....

Replace that edge connector. My opinion ? Every edge connector needs replacement, even if the game works fine....

[ckong]

Unfortunately the LV2000 upgrade didn't fix the issue with fuses F100 and F101, that constantly blow up. However, after some tests with connecting/disconnecting connectors J100, J600 and J700 to their headers, I found that whenever P700 got connected, both fuses blow up in smoke!

So, there was something wrong with P700. Solder joints are OK. Finally, this topic helped me to find the issue, I hope: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=98480

It describes how to easy test the transistors on f.i. header P700. Bingo, test #5 and test #6 on PNP transistor 2N3792 failed.   Of course I did the same test on headers P100 and P600 and they seem to be OK.

I will have to get a replacement transistor and hopefully that will cure the problem.  

[ckong]

Here is a good site with interesting info about WG 6100's: http://www.biltronix.com/arcade_electcomp_01.html

Somewhere it lists some replacement transistors for the original 2N2792 PNP (chassis)transistor: http://www.biltronix.com/transistor_subs_01.html#transistor_subs_2n3716_2n3792

Can some technician confirm that this one (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MJ21195G/MJ21195GOS-ND/919460) is a good replacement.

I'm asking because the transistor on the WG 6100 chassis has 5 pins (of which 3 have wires soldered to it), as the replacement seems to have only two pins.

Or could someone point me to a replacement at an European (preferably Dutch) shop?

[ckong]

R808 and R809 on the deflection board should be 680 Ohm with 5% tolerance and they measure in circuit 682 Ohm. I would say pretty OK. I prefer to measure all resistors in circuit, because desoldering and soldering legs of all resistors is a hell of a job. So, how important is it to desolder a lead before measuring resistors?

[ckong]

Here is a good site with interesting info about WG 6100's: http://www.biltronix.com/arcade_electcomp_01.html

Somewhere it lists some replacement transistors for the original 2N2792 PNP (chassis)transistor: http://www.biltronix.com/transistor_subs_01.html#transistor_subs_2n3716_2n3792

Can some technician confirm that this one (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MJ21195G/MJ21195GOS-ND/919460) is a good replacement.

I'm asking because the transistor on the WG 6100 chassis has 5 pins (of which 3 have wires soldered to it), as the replacement seems to have only two pins.

Or could someone point me to a replacement at an European (preferably Dutch) shop?

I can answer this question myself. Yes, it is a correct replacement. The original transistor also only has two pins, the other 3 pins are part of a kind of 'harnas' that will fit the new transistor also.  

I'm still fighting the monitor boards of this game and of Black Widow. Fortunately there is a lot of documentation about the WG 61000's, with all kind of repair tips. Hopefully the golden tip is between them, but so far I have little luck.

One good lesson learnt in the past is too always check soldering points etc, especially at connectors. Here is an example (before and after)

[level42]

I once started a thread about equivalents but alas it hasn't been awarded a sticky....

https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=5232.0

I'm not too keen on using equivalents though....often they have the legs "wrong" and thus they are not drop-in replacements !! Always check datasheets on both original and equivalent before installing them !!


Good soldering job only the one on the very bottom has a tiny bit too much solder....butttttttt I must add that sometimes on those lousy 6100 PCBs you can't get anything but a bulb soldering like that so don't worry about it too much (often the factory ones are like that....or much worse....)