Zaccaria / Hanatrex Power Supply

[Digimon]

Hi,

I try to rebuild one of my Zaccs in the next month (so my wife will let me do that).
now I start with theoretical stuff. (I never made a rebuild before;-))

It's about my Cab from Ebay, with a Hantarey MTC900 in:




I've pulled of some parts, and now is my question about the power supply:
It look rotten, and there is no power on it;-)



so what to do with it? Is it realistic to repair it? or is better to change it to something new.
Has someone documentation about spare parts?

I also have an US250 Hantarex Power Supply which to my mind can do the job, but I am not sure.
Has someone made such a change before? or an shematic from the us250



I found a photo of an universal Zacc with an US300 in.



thanx

[level42]

You can find the manual at Speleo_DE's/Andreas' site:

http://www.andysarcade.de/gen_unicab.html

Under Power Supplies.

[Digimon]

I've been there a thousand times;-) but never seen it.
thanks

[Etienne MacGyver]

Depending on what you prefer, i can help you with the rotten PS.

If you want as original as posible, you need to rebuild / clean / fix the old, which is not too hard i think.

as for the hantarex, then you probably need to modificate your harness and find the correct connectors to use in that

I have a spare original ps, and can make a guide to folow if to determine where the problem might be

i think it a fuse problem if there is no power at all,
I first also was looking for a simular problem, and all the fuses where ok i thought...

Which i did not know at that time is that there is also a fuse inside of the voltage selector, and not only in the "standard" fuseholders that you see on the ps unit.

So check that first, and then i can check what power you need to have on the other side of the transformer.

so it up to you, if you go for the rotten, i can take my spare and do some measurements in different spots.

[Belike]

You should probably keep the original one, as Etienne said, it is quite easy to repair it, there are just a few capacitors and transistors inside.
The original is also more reliable, I have tons of these cabs and only once had a problem with a power regulator (MA 7812 UC).
I also have a cab with the same Hantarex psu, I had to repair it about 10 times in the last 3 years.

[Digimon]

sound like I should try to repair, before changing.

when I am back from holiday (starting tommorow) I will begin with cleaning and see if I can fix it with your help.

may it can be a good photo-lovestory about me and my PS.



CU

[level42]

I've been there a thousand times;-) but never seen it.
thanks

I think that page is often overlooked because in the menu it says "Universal Cabs (German)", but this flag doesn't cover the entire "load" on that page because it also has schematics and docs for a huge range of (mostly Euro) monitors and other nice stuff

The Hanti cap-lit lists and cap maps are brilliant too. Maybe a menu item like "Technical docs" or something like that is a better idea Andreas ?

[level42]

You should probably keep the original one, as Etienne said, it is quite easy to repair it, there are just a few capacitors and transistors inside.
The original is also more reliable, I have tons of these cabs and only once had a problem with a power regulator (MA 7812 UC).
I also have a cab with the same Hantarex psu, I had to repair it about 10 times in the last 3 years.

The 250 and 300 are switching power supplies and thus more suspicious to failure compared to the conventional PSU you already got there. Conventional PSU's are much easier to repair and once fixed are very reliable. The reason why switching power supplies appeared was that they are much more energy efficient. That is nice if your cab is running all day or maybe even 24/7 in an arcade BITD, but if you just play your game occasionally the difference isn't that important. Plus keeping things as original as possible is one of the higher goals in this hobby. That PSU can be brought back to very nice condition for sure, but it will take a lot of work...

[speleo_de]

The Hanti cap-lit lists and cap maps are brilliant too. Maybe a menu item like "Technical docs" or something like that is a better idea Andreas ?

Due to the pages being static, I would need to update ~100 pages. I will consider this with the next major change.
Until then you just can use Google: "andysarcade.de us250"

Andreas

[Etienne MacGyver]

Okay, i did some research and tried to document the PS i have here and some basic trouble shooting.

The general setup of the Power supply:




The transformer used by Zaccaria is a isolation transformer and a normal transformer in one.




the pictures are very "selfexplaining" i think, so if nessecary, i can adjust this post with answers to your questions.






These are the connectors with the numbers from the schematics and seen "from above"




First check if the mains cord works




Then measure these points to see if you have power, if not, check the main fuse.




its inside the selector..




this is the 120v line for the monitor comming from the isolation transformer.




If you got a 220 volt monitor, use this connection, which is also comming from the isolation transformer.




I drew some red arrows to the corresponding fuses.












And to make it complete, a schematic of the pcb which regulates the raw AC current into DC output.




And a component layout schema:




This should bring you a bit on your way

[Belike]

Very nice tutorial with great pics Etienne, it will be very useful for Zacc owners.
The only weak points of this sytem are the 3 power regulators, marked RG1, RG2 and RG3, but it is an easy fix.

[Etienne MacGyver]

Yeah, but they dont fail that often IF you use proper cooling.

I have seen the temperatures rise very high with the fan disconnected.
(that fan causes the "whobbely" screen remember..)

So the best is to replace the "refrigerator fan" with a big PC fan like this :



You need to "steal" some power from the 12v line though, as the original fan is running on 220V.
(CN2 pin 9 & 12)

As for the regulators, they are cheap to replace 

[Belike]

You are reading my mind, I just wanted to replace that big monster fan with the same pc equipment and I didn't have an idea where to connect.
Thanks my friend.

[Etienne MacGyver]

Yes, it does not require alot of current, so "borrowing" it from the PS will not hurt i think.

And if you worry about that, you can always plug an adapter in the wall socket where the marquee lamp is connected:

[level42]

I would never put a 12V fan on it because:

1) it will load the +12V extra and thus creates even more heat.
2) on start up the fan will make a surge on the 12V output that the rest of the electronics that use the +12V may not really like....
3) 12V fans move a LOT less air than 230VAC one's
4) if the fan ever fails it could mess up the electronics that is using the +12V

Why not simply use a 230VAC one ?