Superully
ArcadeLifeStyler'
Posts: 5235
Southern Part of Germany
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« Reply #45 on: February 16, 2012, 07:08:59 AM » |
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love the idea - hopefully the structure will still be there once it is sanded down / levelled!
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ataritoobin
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« Reply #46 on: February 19, 2012, 05:40:45 AM » |
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love the idea - hopefully the structure will still be there once it is sanded down / levelled!
It should be ok, seems to be quite a bit of material there, only where the burns went all the way through is it a bit thin  Polished bolts and screws today and some of the metal railing. I was so surprised how well it turned out - had to grind down with 40 grit on some of the metal parts due to rust. Bolts were spun in a drill against 40, 80, 100, 120, 220, 300, 400, 600, 1500, 6000 and 8000 grit sandpaper in some cases. This is one of the big bolts on the sides of the cabinet: Resurfaced railing piece + screws on the left, original rusted railing piece + screws on the right: |
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« Last Edit: February 19, 2012, 05:43:08 AM by ataritoobin »
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Superully
ArcadeLifeStyler'
Posts: 5235
Southern Part of Germany
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« Reply #47 on: February 19, 2012, 09:07:52 AM » |
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wow, those bolts came out nicely! most of the time i simply replace my bolts with new ones (unless i can't avoid it because it's a very speical type). might be worth trying myself ...
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Muerto
ArcadeLifeStyler'
Posts: 3007
Denmark
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« Reply #48 on: February 19, 2012, 10:10:28 AM » |
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Looking good, do you treat the polished bolt with something so it wont rust?
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"Inside every tool is a hammer" Cabs - too many - need - lifesize X-Wing fighter  |
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Level42
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« Reply #49 on: February 19, 2012, 10:34:28 AM » |
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Yeah like I Ully I would replace if possible too (less work  ). I guess because it's a Japanese cab that there is metric stuff all around this cab ? That would make it even easier for us here |
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Superully
ArcadeLifeStyler'
Posts: 5235
Southern Part of Germany
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« Reply #50 on: February 19, 2012, 10:41:13 AM » |
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Yeah like I Ully like I andré too  |
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FOUND my number 1 game: TAPPER!
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ataritoobin
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« Reply #51 on: February 19, 2012, 06:21:23 PM » |
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Looking good, do you treat the polished bolt with something so it wont rust?
I've read of people "Gun Bluing" to prevent future rust, I'll probably try to track some of that down. As I recall you dip the bolt head into it and simply let it dry. Yeah like I Ully I would replace if possible too (less work ). I guess because it's a Japanese cab that there is metric stuff all around this cab ? That would make it even easier for us here Yep, all metric - difficult to find much of anything here in the USA  Yeah like I Ully like I andré too  |
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Superully
ArcadeLifeStyler'
Posts: 5235
Southern Part of Germany
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« Reply #52 on: February 20, 2012, 01:02:24 AM » |
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I've read of people "Gun Bluing" to prevent future rust, I'll probably try to track some of that down. As I recall you dip the bolt head into it and simply let it dry.
didn't work well for me, tried it once, not convincing! at least not for me ... |
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FOUND my number 1 game: TAPPER!
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ataritoobin
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« Reply #53 on: February 20, 2012, 01:45:52 AM » |
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I've read of people "Gun Bluing" to prevent future rust, I'll probably try to track some of that down. As I recall you dip the bolt head into it and simply let it dry.
didn't work well for me, tried it once, not convincing! at least not for me ... Good to know! I'll probably check into another method, then. I was thinking a clearcoat of some sort would work but it might lose/change the sheen of the polished bolt. Did you try that out on your Jungle King restoration? |
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« Last Edit: February 20, 2012, 02:05:50 AM by ataritoobin »
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ataritoobin
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« Reply #54 on: February 20, 2012, 02:04:57 AM » |
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Not too much new today, picked up the missing bolts, washers, nuts and screws today (notably the carriage bolts that stick through the rear sides of the cabinet). New carriage bolts come with the rating info stamped into the head so I ground the heads down so they were blank like the originals and polished them back up. Continued to clean up the metal floor trim pieces and filled in some of the damaged bottom corners on the cabinet.
I wound up making my own M10 leg levelers since it was too costly to find any - either they were overseas, had a huge base, tiny base and a short stem, or were $20/ea. due to being used for some expensive machining equipment. I will order the casters from Japan as the originals are still being manufactured.
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gyruss
ArcadeLifeStyler'
Posts: 1889
The Netherlands
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« Reply #55 on: February 20, 2012, 10:40:53 AM » |
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I read somewhere the atari pole position cockpits were delivered in 2 pieces and put together on location. Is this also the case with the namco version of was yours separated with a saw?
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Level42
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« Reply #56 on: February 20, 2012, 11:44:19 AM » |
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I doubt that story, where did you read that ? F.I. for Star Wars cockpits this is definitly not true because the bottom part is one piece that cannot be separated. Little reason to believe the Atari PP was different... When you look at a SW cockpit it looks like it can be separated, but it cant really (without fully dismantling it). Pics from Andreas: http://andysarcade.de/data/picseries/sw_restore/pic008.html |
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gyruss
ArcadeLifeStyler'
Posts: 1889
The Netherlands
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« Reply #57 on: February 20, 2012, 12:00:19 PM » |
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« Last Edit: February 20, 2012, 12:10:48 PM by gyruss »
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Level42
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« Reply #58 on: February 20, 2012, 12:09:56 PM » |
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Id say those stories are not true. AFAIK the Red Baron cockpit was not two pieces either and a PP cockpit= Red Baron cockpit..... Postings on KLOV forum also indicate it is NOT two parts. You would have to saw the bottom to separate the parts. I wouldnt do that.... The reason is simple, you will get a very week point right in the middle of the base if you would reattach it in anyway... I am pretty sure I investigated if a PP could come apart when I was intending to buy the one in the South of France and everyone said it wasnt possible. O well... I figure you will soon find out  I seem to remember that Alpha1 mentioned the Namco DID come in two parts though.... |
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