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(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMap.jpg)
スーパーレイジーロードの旅!! ナムコポールポジション
Super Lazy Road Trip: NAMCO POLE POSITION
What a journey it's been! This machine has quite literally been all around the world. I purchased this Japanese Namco Pole Position Cockpit from Alpha1 last year in the UK. Firstly, let me say how great Alpha1 was in getting this machine safely to me. You may have seen the below video of the machine being wrapped for shipment. As I've said, he definitely has dibs on any of my machines should I sell!
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPWrap.jpg) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8B5nijnBIVQ)
And after arriving in the USA:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPArrival.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPArrival2.jpg)
The machine came exactly as described. The people at Simtex International in the UK were incredibly helpful.
Unfortunately all hell broke loose when the machine hit the US customs - everything that could have possibly gone wrong did with the US shipping company. Pretty much killed my "arcade mojo" for the time being - but I'll save that whole downer of a story for later!
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPBlimp.gif)
In celebration of its 30th Anniversary, let's get this race started and bring this well-traveled guy back to life! Let's see what we're dealing with here.
It's evident that some areas were painted black, most notably the control panel.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPBefore.jpg)
Why would they do that? Let's peel away some of the putty/black paint and see:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPBurns.jpg)
Gross! Just what I suspected - cigarette burns! Some go all the way through the CP. At least the operator cared enough about appearances to try to cover it up ;D
Just some general cleaning on the top of the machine, and the inside.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPTopDirty.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPTopCleaner.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMoreCleaning.jpg)
Hey some souvenirs! Maybe this will cover customs fees? :D
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSouvenir.jpg)
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List of some of the things that need to be done:
- Clean!
- Replace power cord with U.S. type
- Adjust power transformer for 120V. I noticed that there was also a 220/120V jumper on the power supply board itself.
- Swap fuses as needed
- Check/rebuild power supply
- Clean!
- Replace/recreate original seat
- Test PCBs (non-working, but I have two other untested sets).
- Test/recap monitor
- Find another Namco steering wheel or attempt to restore original grip.
- Rebuild coin door to stock
- Restore CP. This will be pretty tricky due to the texture - some research will have to be done on this
- Add/make Shifter Knob
- Find metric leg levelers - M10
- Create retainer bar for CP
- Clean!
- Find four casters that will fit
- Plug/repair excess carriage bolt holes along the bottom
- Restore Pedals
- Scan shifter artwork - redraw shifter artwork
- Replace rubber mat
- Add Cap or NOVRAM to allow high score save after removing battery
Long road ahead! Until next time...
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPGameOver.jpg)
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Looks like a perfect packing job !
those sig burns are indeed major ! :o
well, congrats on your new baby, and it sure does look like you have something to spend your spare time with ;D
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first of all: nice thread title :)
then: this looks like a major undertaking, time- and money-consuming, but once this is finished you'll have a fabulous looking game. good luck with the restoration, hopefully you'll post lots of pictures. and pleaseshare that customs story with us ...
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Nice one Steve, I guess you really love this game. :D
A tip for the resto:
There are several companies, that renew car's steering wheels with leather in any colour, I guess it could be a solution in this case. ;)
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I put the title in my Katakana Converter (http://martijnkoch.com/katakanaconverter.php). Easier to read. ;D
Don't get the first half, but the last bit is obviously Namco Pole Position
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Cool, good luck with the restoration !
I you ever decide to sell it it must go to Japan to complete the circle ;););)
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WOW! :spaceace:
More of that story please!
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a work of art! :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Thanks, all!
Did some more work on it today. The shifter area had been painted black, cockeyed, again I assume for cigarette burns. I used some Citristrip which I tested under the "aftermarket seat" area. It seemed to not affect the laminate, but I needed to be careful near the inner sides as they're painted white.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPBlackShifter.jpg)
Dig the backwards shifter :D
During the process - yep - cigarette burns. Yet the cockeyed black paint and overspray looked better to somebody at some point ???
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPBlackShifter2.jpg)
At this point I had removed the chair. It was hanging by one stuck bolt and had scratched the crap out of the base area from years of dragging around under the weight of people's bodies.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPBlackShifter3.jpg)
Getting better! I haven't quite decided yet, but since these burns are more on the surface one might be able to carefully polish them out.
Let's move onto the electronics. Time to replace the UK plug with a US type.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPUKPlug.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPlug.jpg)
"It's green, the 'earth,' in America."
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPlug2.jpg)
"Some places it's brown, y'know?"
:lol:
Changed the input tap on the Transformer to 120V and changed the power supply jumper to 100/120V.
Unplugged the power supply, monitor and PCB and tested the 100V output - perfect!
Checked the voltages and they were surprisingly close to the mark.
Let's give it a shot...
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPVerticalCollapse.jpg)
Crap! Vertical collapse on the monitor. PCB doesn't appear to boot, as known.
Let's try another PCB [Video Link]:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPCBTest.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPTest.AVI)
Hey! Cool - could have all sorts of gfx issues though as far as I can tell :lol:. Immediately turned it off so that the screen didn't get a horizontal line burn like those Sanyos in Nintendo cabs with foldover issues.
I did notice you could select a track - so this must be a PPII PCB - neat! The last screw that holds the monitor cover is stuck, so I'll wait for another day to look over the monitor.
I started to strip the black paint off of the CP. I had an idea to repair the cigarette burned areas using some mold making materials I have from another project. I'll try a few tests out and do a sort of "proof (or failure :-*) of concept."
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPStrip.jpg)
I spent some more time carefully cleaning and disinfecting the sides. Funny after hours of all that detail work, from this pic, it looks just about the same as it did before! :lol:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCabDay2.jpg)
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I put the title in my Katakana Converter (http://martijnkoch.com/katakanaconverter.php). Easier to read. ;D
Don't get the first half, but the last bit is obviously Namco Pole Position
Super Lazy Road Trip ;D Though a boat was involved at some point too....
Cool, good luck with the restoration !
I you ever decide to sell it it must go to Japan to complete the circle ;););)
:lol:
WOW! :spaceace:
More of that story please!
I'll post the story of its arrival in the USA after everything has been settled, then I won't be so grumpy about it ;) ;D
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Removed the monitor from the cabinet. Filthy!
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMonitorShelf.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMonitorChassis.jpg)
Monitor is a Nanao KZ-20EN, aka MC2000S.
Replaced C480 (10uf25V), C523 (100uf50V), R416 (22ohm 1/2W), and re-flowed some solder joints.
Result?
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPWorking.jpg)
:spaceace:
Had to take a break to play a few rounds! :P The front speakers aren't emitting sound - if the uprights are set to only use 2 speakers (instead of the cockpit's 4) then maybe that is a cause, or two amps on the PCB are dead.
I flipped the shifter to the correct orientation while I was at it. The switches are wired backwards, hence why it was upside down. Will fix that later.
Started to work on the lower panel and inner sides that were also painted black. This I don't understand - it looks fantastic underneath! Perhaps to cover rust on the coin bucket/pedals? Went to work with the Citristrip and elbow grease again.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPFrontPanel.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPFrontPanel2.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPFrontPanel3.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPFrontPanel4.jpg)
Control panel is progressing slowly. I think it may potentially turn out better than I would have expected:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPProgress.jpg)
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Nice one Steve, I guess you really love this game. :D
A tip for the resto:
There are several companies, that renew car's steering wheels with leather in any colour, I guess it could be a solution in this case. ;)
Thanks, Bela! :) That is a good idea - definitely something to check into. Maybe something to go with the cabinet color scheme?
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Great work ! Are you running original Namco boards in it ? I guess Atari ones have different connectors ?
Do you have an idea how the steering wheel looked like originally ?
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As I see it from Pieter's pic, it was simply black, definitely not that ......... brown. :D
(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u471/Gyruss99/pole2.jpg)
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Yep, the cabinet is running the original Namco PCBs which are a bit different from the Atari PCBs and use different edge connectors. Each PCB of the 2-board stack has their own 3-pin molex power connector.
The grip must not have been too durable on these...that entire wheel was replaced in that pic :shock: Here's the original:
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Hey Bela, let's take a look under that steering wheel wrap:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPControlPanelDay3.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSteeringWheelSansWrap.jpg)
:shock: Haha! Just about what I expected, packing tape, something else, and a sticky gooey black mess which must be the original foam.
I noticed that the Taito Grand Champion steering wheels look just about the same, so that might be an option provided the mounting holes are the same. Those would be (just barely! :P) more plentiful over here.
Here are some interesting "WTF was that person thinking?" things about this machine.
There's an Electrocoin "THIS MACHINE MUST BE EARTHED" sticker on the rear of the machine, so I assume this was imported into the UK by them. The coin door was modified from the one-slot original (evident by the crooked cuts through the Namco "inspection" tag on the back and original holes, and it still has the coin return under the CP which only works with the original setup) to hold the 2-slot 10p Coin Controls mechanisms.
Only one issue.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPOriginalDoor.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCoinDoor.jpg)
There's no way this door could have ever opened or closed properly without disassembling the mechs! :lol:
Luckily the door is pretty simple, so I will likely recreate it and set it up like the original and leave this one as-is.
Another "WTF?" was the big circular hole in the bottom of the coin box and the bottom of the cabinet with a bit of PVC pipe going to the floor. Since the door was locked, my best guess is that at some point someone owned it and couldn't get to the credit button (didn't know about Free Play either), so they got the coin box out, cut a hole in it, and cut a hole in the floor with a tube as a guide to get the coins they dropped through out on the floor :lol: Otherwise I have no idea why this was done.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCoinBucket.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCoinHole.jpg)
I straightened and painted the coin box, coin box bezel and pedal plate today. The paint dried a lot more "white" than intended :-\ But it's certainly 100% better than what was there. I will probably revisit this again at some point.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRestoredLowerPanel.jpg)
Working on cleaning up the pedals and shifter. Took the shifter apart so I could scan its bezel artwork (the pedal being cleaned in the foreground)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPedals.jpg)
Also re-glued the lower back panel of the cabinet.
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Look like Nintendo coin-mechs....if you dont have a Nintendo cab you can easily sell those....
Your make fast progress. Some weird mods...
Hope you will find a steering wheel. At least the center is in tact.
The fact that electrocoin imported original Japanese PP's indicate how popular (and how much of a money maker) the game was. Of course Atari had the rights for Europe and manufactured PP's in Ireland for that market but it was obviously interesting enough to do shadow imports like this....
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(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPDay4.jpg)
Almost there with the CP!
Fixed up the original coin door for now:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCoinDoorRefinish.jpg)
Freshened up the shifter bumpers:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPShifterBumpers.jpg)
Ground down and polished the pedals and shifter (after scanning the artwork!) - these were DEEPLY pitted/rusted.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPedalShifter.jpg)
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That poor steering wheel definitely saw better days. :o
Quarterarcade has one for sale with the Atari logo, but I guess you will rather go for the Namco one :D
(http://www.quarterarcade.com/img/vol3/9015_0_fs.jpg)
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Nahhhh, can't go Atari on a Namco PP.......
The wheel is bigger and the spokes are so typical for Atari. i'm sure there is a better solution....
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Nahhhh, can't go Atari on a Namco PP.......
The wheel is bigger and the spokes are so typical for Atari. i'm sure there is a better solution....
It looks like Namco may have used the same wheel up until Final Lap, so there may be hope that I can track down an original, or find some fix for the one I have.
The main reason I haven't taken off the wheel yet is you have to PRY the Namco emblem back to get to the bolts - which I'm too chicken to do ATM for fear of bending it :oops:
I'm impressed how heavy-duty the steering wheel mechanism is. Much more heft to it than the Atari setup.
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Look like Nintendo coin-mechs....if you dont have a Nintendo cab you can easily sell those....
Your make fast progress. Some weird mods...
Hope you will find a steering wheel. At least the center is in tact.
The fact that electrocoin imported original Japanese PP's indicate how popular (and how much of a money maker) the game was. Of course Atari had the rights for Europe and manufactured PP's in Ireland for that market but it was obviously interesting enough to do shadow imports like this....
It's interesting isn't it? I have a Taito Space Invaders: Part II upright (we had the Midway license over here for Space Invaders Deluxe) so I looked up the info on the "Modified by" sticker on the bezel. Turns out the guy has an import business running out of his house for sporting goods (still does all this time later!) and evidently must have imported arcade games at some point.
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Found one....
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/nenhenry/dn03.jpg)
ahh....no, not the same ;)
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Danm, this restoration is flying!!! great work!!!
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Found one....
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/nenhenry/dn03.jpg)
ahh....no, not the same ;)
Hahaha! :D I love it! Arcade lifestyle indeed. :spaceace:
Danm, this restoration is flying!!! great work!!!
Thank you! :)
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Finally starting to look like a ナムコポールポジションですね??
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPDay5.jpg)
Wound up bending a dental tool into a "U" shape to scoop the black paint out of the recessed areas of the control panel. Felt like I was scraping plaque out of teeth :? :lol:
Assembled the pedals:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPFrontPanelRestored.jpg)
These were ground down in a vice with a belt sander to get the deep rust and pits out, then polished up with finer and finer grits of sandpaper, followed by a clearcoat to hopefully prevent any future rust.
Grafted on a shifter knob from a Sega Turbo. It's probably possible to re-shape this into the more sloped shape of the original.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPShifterKnob.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPOriginalShifterKnob.jpg)
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Must say I can understand why the foot area was made black. I mean, that white stuff looks nice, but after a couple of hours in an arcade you will have black sole marks everywhere ! Make sure you and your visitors drive with shoes off ;)
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Must say I can understand why the foot area was made black. I mean, that white stuff looks nice, but after a couple of hours in an arcade you will have black sole marks everywhere ! Make sure you and your visitors drive with shoes off ;)
Good point :) ! Luckily my game room is shoeless, so I hopefully won't have to worry (though I have yet to figure where I'm going to put this exactly :oops:)
I put my Etienne hat on last night and made a couple of stickers for the cabinet (forgot screenshots - d'oh!) - a coin door inspection tag and "Indoor Use Only" tag. I also am working on a "100 Yen Only" sticker (seen in the original coin door pic) and the "JAA" (before they were called JAMMA!) sticker.
I had a thought for the steering wheel, there's a product called "Plasti Dip" that's available as a brush-on, spray, or dip application. It's a rubbery coating used for worn tools, and evidently, worn steering wheels.
If I can get the foam/rim of the steering wheel nice and even, that might be a possible fix to re-furbish the old wheel which I'd be keen to do vs. replacing it.
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I am happy that i inspired you ;) :D
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I am happy that i inspired you ;) :D
:)
I made up a few stickers since my Space Invaders I and II machines are also missing the JAA tags (though I did some research and JAA might have changed their name to JAMMA as early as 1981 making the Pole Position stickers inaccurate - I'll check more into that).
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/Stickers.jpg)
These look too new/clean though. The originals seem to have been made on pretty flimsy paper.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/Stickers2.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/Stickers3.jpg)
Test tag applied to Space Invaders: Part II:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/Stickers4.jpg)
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Lol, excellent way to make stickers old. :D
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I knew tea had to be good for something...
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damn cool i-tea 8)
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Love the mac gyver factor that you did there with the tea ! :spaceace:
(http://0.tqn.com/d/politicalhumor/1/0/s/h/3/best-tea-party.jpg)
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I knew tea had to be good for something...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eU_FRqTcAZE
(Tea is written Thee in Dutch and pronounced "Tay")
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:D :lol:
Does anybody happen to have a close up pic of this JAMMA sticker? I think my Sega Aero City cab (wish I still had it! :'() had this same version of the tag.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/JAMMASticker.jpg)
Reached out to a couple of collectors in Australia with Namco cockpits to hopefully get a few measurements for the coin door and seat.
I removed the steering wheel by the rear of the control panel so I was able to finish stripping the black paint off towards the center of the CP. I did a couple of experiments with the Plasti Dip on the steering wheel grip, so we'll see if that turns out to be a viable repair.
The steering wheel appears to have been made by S.S. Ltd. Didn't find much relevant info on the web about them.
Thankfully I'm just about done stripping paint. Despite wearing gloves my fingernails were black for about a week while working on this :P.
Looks like the original company that made the casters, Tochigiya, is still in business (noted by the "hammer" logo on the casters). The casters don't seem to be too expensive, but shipping will cost a bit.
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De-rusted and re-painted the black trim pieces (two pieces that hold in the rear "window"/marquee and the bezel retainer):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMarqueeBA.jpg)
Repaired some wood that was splitting on the base due to the casters/leg levelers being removed :-[:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPClampGlue.jpg)
Affixed the "Indoor Use Only" tag:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPIndoorUseOnly.jpg)
A comparison pic of the pedals:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPedalsBA.jpg)
Heh heh just noticed I put the gas pedal on upside down :oops:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPolePosition211.jpg)
And how it stands today. I have the CP off so I can experiment with patching up the bad cigarette burns.
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I love this kind of pics :
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPedalsBA.jpg)
Youre doing a great job!
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Great job so far,
And the Tea thing is genius :)
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I love this kind of pics :
Youre doing a great job!
Great job so far,
And the Tea thing is genius :)
Thank you! :)
To save others from pulling your hair out, the Dip Switch settings listed in the Namco manual and on the inside of the cabinet aren't even close to correct. I found this out when I made some changes and the game would lock up on the title screen :shock: Turns out that was the infamous Namco "freeze screen" (which doesn't work like it does on other Namco games...here if you coin up before the title screen you can still play, and it goes through the test mode).
Here are the settings from the Irish Pole Position II manual (the Atari Ireland-built PP games used the Namco PCBs):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPDip1.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPDip2.jpg)
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The control panel experiment seems to have worked pretty well (I know - worthless without pics! :oops: Will add soon)
I made a mold of the bottom part of the panel to get a good copy of the texture. I sanded the high points of the burns and tried using a thin layer of casting resin to patch the cigarette burnt parts . Then I clamped the mold to that and it worked but the resin dried too inconsistently and was a bit messy.
I then tried evening out the "lips" of the burns by sanding, then filling the "pools" with Evercoat body filler (similar to Bondo, but applies thinner and is easier to work with in small areas), applied Vaseline to the mold I'd made and clamped that to the panel and that seemed to work a bit better. The trick now will probably be to even up the burns first, then do a light skin of the Evercoat and apply the "texture" to that then paint.
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wow, cant wait to see pics of that little trick!
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great work so far!
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Thanks!! :)
I took a mold of the lower portion of the control panel since it was the least damaged and largest flat area. I used Liquid Latex by Tap Plastics (I believe a local establishment). You brush the liquid latex on in layers as it dries. When you've done about 8 or so layers, let it it dry for 24 hours and your left with an impression of your surface.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/LiquidLatex.jpg)
Here's a shot of the first coat of the Liquid Latex mold:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/CPMold.jpg)
To fill the low areas in the burns, I used Evercoat Metal Glaze.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/Evercoat.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPPutty.jpg)
This abstract looking picture shows the patched areas so far. The filler is blue - hard to tell in this pic due to lighting - but you can see how the texture of it matches the rest of the panel after having the rubber mold clamped to the surface while hardening. It obviously needs to be evened out a bit, but I think it should turn out pretty decently. Will just be a lot of baby steps to get the surface even.
I should note that the Evercoat will be harder than the pliable plastic surface, but in a home environment in the relatively small areas that are covered, this shouldn't be an issue as the CP shouldn't be drastically flexed when attached.
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love the idea - hopefully the structure will still be there once it is sanded down / levelled!
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love the idea - hopefully the structure will still be there once it is sanded down / levelled!
It should be ok, seems to be quite a bit of material there, only where the burns went all the way through is it a bit thin :'(
Polished bolts and screws today and some of the metal railing. I was so surprised how well it turned out - had to grind down with 40 grit on some of the metal parts due to rust. Bolts were spun in a drill against 40, 80, 100, 120, 220, 300, 400, 600, 1500, 6000 and 8000 grit sandpaper in some cases. This is one of the big bolts on the sides of the cabinet:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPBolts.jpg)
Resurfaced railing piece + screws on the left, original rusted railing piece + screws on the right:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRust.jpg)
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wow, those bolts came out nicely! most of the time i simply replace my bolts with new ones (unless i can't avoid it because it's a very speical type). might be worth trying myself ...
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Looking good, do you treat the polished bolt with something so it wont rust?
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Yeah like I Ully I would replace if possible too (less work ;)). I guess because it's a Japanese cab that there is metric stuff all around this cab ? That would make it even easier for us here ;)
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Yeah like I Ully
like I andré too :-*
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Looking good, do you treat the polished bolt with something so it wont rust?
I've read of people "Gun Bluing" to prevent future rust, I'll probably try to track some of that down. As I recall you dip the bolt head into it and simply let it dry.
Yeah like I Ully I would replace if possible too (less work ;)). I guess because it's a Japanese cab that there is metric stuff all around this cab ? That would make it even easier for us here ;)
Yep, all metric - difficult to find much of anything here in the USA :(
Yeah like I Ully
like I andré too :-*
:lol:
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I've read of people "Gun Bluing" to prevent future rust, I'll probably try to track some of that down. As I recall you dip the bolt head into it and simply let it dry.
didn't work well for me, tried it once, not convincing! at least not for me ...
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I've read of people "Gun Bluing" to prevent future rust, I'll probably try to track some of that down. As I recall you dip the bolt head into it and simply let it dry.
didn't work well for me, tried it once, not convincing! at least not for me ...
Good to know! I'll probably check into another method, then. I was thinking a clearcoat of some sort would work but it might lose/change the sheen of the polished bolt. Did you try that out on your Jungle King restoration?
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Not too much new today, picked up the missing bolts, washers, nuts and screws today (notably the carriage bolts that stick through the rear sides of the cabinet). New carriage bolts come with the rating info stamped into the head so I ground the heads down so they were blank like the originals and polished them back up. Continued to clean up the metal floor trim pieces and filled in some of the damaged bottom corners on the cabinet.
I wound up making my own M10 leg levelers since it was too costly to find any - either they were overseas, had a huge base, tiny base and a short stem, or were $20/ea. due to being used for some expensive machining equipment. I will order the casters from Japan as the originals are still being manufactured.
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I read somewhere the atari pole position cockpits were delivered in 2 pieces and put together on location. Is this also the case with the namco version of was yours separated with a saw?
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I doubt that story, where did you read that ?
F.I. for Star Wars cockpits this is definitly not true because the bottom part is one piece that cannot be separated. Little reason to believe the Atari PP was different...
When you look at a SW cockpit it looks like it can be separated, but it cant really (without fully dismantling it).
Pics from Andreas:
http://andysarcade.de/data/picseries/sw_restore/pic008.html
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http://www.arcade-history.com/?n=pole-position-cockpit-model&page=detail&id=21234
http://everything2.com/title/Pole+Position+II
http://www.ukvac.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=322077&title=kind-of-tech-question-pole-position-cockpit
But i also read stories from people seperating them by unscruwing/dismanteling the top plate and cuting the buttom part with a saw...
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=286870
and
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=141550
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Id say those stories are not true. AFAIK the Red Baron cockpit was not two pieces either and a PP cockpit= Red Baron cockpit.....
Postings on KLOV forum also indicate it is NOT two parts. You would have to saw the bottom to separate the parts. I wouldnt do that....
The reason is simple, you will get a very week point right in the middle of the base if you would reattach it in anyway...
I am pretty sure I investigated if a PP could come apart when I was intending to buy the one in the South of France and everyone said it wasnt possible.
O well... I figure you will soon find out :)
I seem to remember that Alpha1 mentioned the Namco DID come in two parts though....
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This guy did a pretty good job putting the 2 pieces back together: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=141550
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This guy did a pretty good job putting the 2 pieces back together: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=141550
Wow, good job indeed!
Yep, the Namco version most definitely came in two halves from the factory. The other Namcos I've seen come in two halves, and it's pictured in the manual and flyer as such.
I actually came across a pic the other day in a Japanese book of bootleg Namco Pole Position cockpits (Top Racer) getting hauled away in a truck. Apparently those came in halves too as they were hauling away the front halves of the cockpit :D
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPDiagram.jpg)
You can see the plate and the four bolts at the bottom that hold the cabinet together. There are also three bolts on the inside top of the cabinet to hold the halves together.
Thunder Ceptor would be the same:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/ThunderCeptor.jpg)
In Japan, Pole Position also came in a smaller, plainer, "half" like cabinet with a blue control panel. You provide your own seat!
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPOtherType.jpg)
Pole Position II used the same cabinets (and judging from the decal placement on some I've seen, was available as a conversion kit) and had conveniently placed "II" decals :lol:
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Collector WOKA in Australia was kind enough to take a bunch of pics and measurements for me over the weekend (thank you thank you thank you ;D!)
It looks like I'm missing a piece of the coin door box - it should have a enclosure on the back, much like Taito upright cabinets, and a coin counter underneath. All of this must have been in the way when whoever owned it decided to make a piping system to the bottom of the cabinet :evil:
Some pics of WOKA's setup:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPWokaCoinBox.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPWokaCoinBox2.jpg)
Here's mine:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCoinHole.jpg)
Looks like it wouldn't be too difficult to re-create. Since this isn't outward-facing, I probably will leave mine be until later on.
Funny to see that the same things are destroyed/replaced on other Namco Pole Positions - steering wheel, seat, and floor mat. Also interesting that almost all of them have a chewed-up lower edge of the "marquee" on the back - I'm thinking this is due to the cabinets not having a "bottom floor" on the underside of the cabinet - probably causes issues trying to move with a hand truck.
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Waiting for some parts to come in. I came across this - :shock: wow! 120 inch screen!
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I decided to add a memory capacitor (1F, 5.5V) in place of the original (and removed at some point) on-board battery. They say they will hold the memory for around 6 months without needing to power on the game. If I don't play the game for 6 months, then I deserve to lose my high scores :lol:!
I had done this previously to my Stern Meteor pinball machine. I headed to my local electronics shop and didn't see any bins with these caps. I did spot a short round cap in a bin of axial caps - hey! Happened to be just what I needed :)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMemoryCap.jpg)
On closer inspection of the PCB, the negative side solder pads had come off (presumably due to acid damage) with the old battery, so I had to jumper the negative side to a nearby ground. The scores are now saving!
I'm almost done with the CP, will post some pics soon.
I also purchased a fine point (still pretty thick!) oil-based black paint pen to touch up the black areas of the side art at a local hobby store. I've found that Sharpies tend to turn a bit purple compared to the original black silkscreen and tend to smear if the areas need to be cleaned in the future. The results are good so far - need to remember to bring my camera with me at all times :oops:!
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I diagnosed the audio issue a little bit (only getting audio out of the rear two speakers). I decided, before spending the $10-per amplifier chip, to test the wiring/speakers. The wiring checked out O.K., so I routed the audio to the speaker in an old Peavy guitar amp I had in the garage and I'll be darned, both front speakers were bad! In 15 years of collecting, I can honestly say that's the first time I've seen that! The speakers are 6" 8 ohm (I have an extra 6" 4 ohm - d'oh!). The music did sound much better with the rest of the accompaniment :lol:
Below is the restored control panel after a few coats of "Chrysler Red" paint. You can see it's too shiny, will have to matte it down a bit:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPRestored.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPBefore2.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPBurns.jpg)
Here is the DecoColor oil-based ink pen I've been using for the black in the side art touchups so far:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPTouchupPen.jpg)
You can see the scuffs in some areas, plus a patch where someone must have stuck duct tape or something to the side :( :
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSideartScuffs.jpg)
Paint splatters and more scuffing/scratches:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSideartScuffs2.jpg)
After some cleaning and touch-up in the black areas:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSideartTouchups.jpg)
I'll more than likely leave most of the colored areas alone because it would be quite easy to make those worse before making them better. Some little things like the logo for example might be able to be touched up using something like a low-tack Frisket as a stencil.
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Another step in the good direction!
looks very nice !
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wow, that control panel came out great. i'd love to see close-up shots of the fixed areas though if possible! great work :spaceace:
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wow, that control panel came out great. i'd love to see close-up shots of the fixed areas though if possible! great work :spaceace:
Sure! Need to bring my tripod with me - with the flash on and macro mode I get a blown out image, if I use macro mode and no flash I can't hold it still enough :D
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Holy moly - youre doing a great job here!!!!!
And as Ully said, that CP is sweet looking again! :spaceace:
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as stated before, awesome work so far!
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That looks great, coming along very nicely :)
I make a lot of use of those paint markers, they get used on all my resorations - good for touching in flaking glass paint as well as side art.
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Here are a couple of better pics of the CP repair:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/CPBurnRepair.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/CPBurnRepair2.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPControlPanelFront.jpg)
A little more inviting now! Still WaAaY too shiny! The shinyness makes it look like amateur hour :-X Steering wheel is STILL nasty..but I might have something in the works! Meanwhile...
Got a package from Japan!
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCastersOpen.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCastersInBox.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/CPCasterInstalled.jpg)
Perfect! That's as good as the casters will ever look :-[ :lol:
Here's how the cabinet looks now:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PP31.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSideartTouchups2.jpg)
We might want to call out the maintenance crew for the Suzuka track - looks like those poor people have been stuck upside down on the roller coaster for almost 30 years!
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRollerCoaster.jpg)
Next things to accomplish:
Get interior grey paint matched and re-paint the lower inner panels by the feet - might have to pull a Bruno and haul the cab to the paint store :spaceace: :D !!
Start thinking about the seat - I got some measurements, but will have to refresh myself on sewing!
Match the lower green color and fill the extra holes.
Figure out a way to "matte" the CP finish.
Make a new coin door.
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absolutely wonderful work so far. love your eye for detail and the dedication you put into this!
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Thanks all! :)
OT, but I saw this bad boy for sale over in Australia:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/DSCN0064.jpg)
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Geez, that is a poor man's PP....but at least you play sitting down !
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Thanks all! :)
OT, but I saw this bad boy for sale over in Australia:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/DSCN0064.jpg)
Thats awesome !, i neve saw a cocktail racer!, very weird to see a steeringwheel on a table :D
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Thats awesome !, i neve saw a cocktail racer!, very weird to see a steeringwheel on a table :D
Then take a look at this Monaco GP, it's even weirder, looks like they incorporated a Vectrex into the table ;D
(http://www.arcade-museum.com/images/115/1159434765.jpg)
http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=8733
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:o :o :o
Does it have force feedback? ;D :D ;D
My goodness, they did not even put a steeringwheel in there with an appropriate size!
That thing is huge in comparation with the table !
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Haha that does look like someone attached a Vectrex! Looks like someone replaced the original wheel with a "The 300" wheel that Atari used. With that on, I can't imagine you could get close enough to see much of the screen :D
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/MonacoGPCocktail.jpg)
The Taito Table Top Speed Race has an even tinier wheel. It actually looks more like a valve knob:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/TTSpeedRace.jpg)
I was able to safely remove the Namco emblem by grinding down an old flat head screwdriver so that it was really slim, warmed up the emblem with a hair dryer, and got between the emblem and the edge of the wheel enough to lift it out and get underneath.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSteeringMedallion.jpg)
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Nice work, I guess there will be a vectorized emblem available soon. :D
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Nice work, I guess there will be a vectorized emblem available soon. :D
:D
Starting to think a bit about the seat. Seems to be pretty simple construction, a wooden base, foam and a Naugahyde covering with what appears to be tubing around the upper edge and some stitching.
Here's what the original looks like vs. my cabinet:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPOriginalSeat.jpg) (http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMySeat.jpg)
I have the basic dimensions of the of the original seat, but I'm not really sure where to begin (probably with the wood base :lol:). I've watched a few tutorials on tubing/piping - would definitely have to get some practice in :o I'll confirm that's indeed what the edging is constructed of - seems the back of the seat is for sure "piped".
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What about the atari version, does that one came with a seat too?
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What about the atari version, does that one came with a seat too?
You know, I never thought about it until now, but I don't think I've ever played an Atari cockpit PP :-X ! Just the uprights - can't recall ever seeing one in person.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPAtariCockpit.jpg)
If it's the same as Red Baron, I think the seat is part of the cabinet (sort of like the way mine is now - sitting on the laminate shelf :D)
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No Atari never made it too comfy in the cockpits probably to get people out of it again after a while... ;)
Also molest would be more common in US arcades compared to Japan I guess.
I still think the SW cockpit is surpringly acceptable to sit in for 30-45 minutes considering it is just two hard planks....
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okay, nice to know, that will safe me some work... ;)
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Got a package in the mail yesterday:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPGrandChampCP.jpg)
CP from a Taito America Grand Champion ($9.99 with no other bids on eBay :-\). The steering wheel is the closest thing I could find to a Namco wheel, and will fit the bill until I can restore the old one. The original has a matte finish, the holes are slightly larger, and has a slight bend on each of the spokes.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPNewWheel.jpg)
Looks a wee bit cleaner I'd say!
Tombo over on KLOV kindly msg'd me and said he had a tube out of a TV that would work on the monitor in my Space Harrier if I needed it. Just so happens Space Harrier uses the same monitor as Pole Position which has bad screen burn on it.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPTube.jpg)
Thanks, Tombo!
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Tube swap was a success! It was (much to my surprise) pretty uneventful.
I cleaned up the chassis and original yoke, since it was so dirty! :?:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMonitorChassis.jpg)
Here is the new tube with the yoke from the TV set. There was a rubber stopper glued/taped on towards the neck board end to prevent the yoke from sliding. I carefully cut the tape and was able to peel the stopper off:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPTube.jpg)
Attached all of the original strapping, grounding and degaussing parts over. Installed the original yoke and rings (sorry, cell phone pics!):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/TubeSwap1.jpg)
BEFORE:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPBurnIn.jpg)
Hard to see here, but the top was darker at the horizon line from the bright blue sky color getting burnt in.
AFTER:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/TubeSwap2.jpg)
After a few more tweaks:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/TubeSwap3.jpg)
In other Pole Position news, I received the replacement speakers for the front and ordered the new mat material.
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Gorgeous, congratulation :-*
One of the best arcade racing game ever done, but also one of the hardest one :P
Really good on that one!
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Picture is awesome, nice fix. ;)
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Thanks :) !!
I got the mat in the other day. SO close, but a few differences:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMat.jpg)
The ribs on the original are slightly "flatter" and more closely spaced.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMatSample.jpg)
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That does the job ! :spaceace:
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I cut the mat for the front section and painted the bottom, inner side wall areas. Looking much better!
(http://ataritoobin.exitonly.net/Pictures/Arcade/PPMat2.jpg)
Still need to glue and staple the mat per the original (hence the slight wave), but want to make sure I get the inner side panels as clean as I can before permanently attaching the mat.
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Wow has it really been since May that I've worked on this? :oops:
I re-painted the coin bucket, trim and pedal plate so that they're the same color as the baseboard, per the original. I removed, de-rusted and re-painted the rear speaker grilles and received the final dimensions I needed for the seat. :) Hopefully I can get started on that before long.
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new pix plz ;D
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new pix plz ;D
Finally found my camera this week :oops:!
The retainer bar for the control panel was missing, so I crafted one up:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRetainerBarPre.jpg)
After drilling and painting:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRetainer.jpg)
Removed, de-rusted, and repainted the rusted rear speaker grilles (need to re-paint bolts black):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSpeakerBefore.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPaintedGrilles.jpg)
I forgot the after pic of the chassis!:
Before:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMonitorChassis.jpg)
After:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPChassisClean.jpg)
How it's currently looking (note repainted coin bucket/pedal plate now matches the laminate):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PP98.jpg)
Before:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRightSideBefore.jpg)
Next to do:
- Make new coin door
- Make mount system for the original coin mechanism setup
- Pick up more screws/bolts to replace any currently missing/incorrect
- Matte CP finish
- Make the seat :shock:
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this is coming out nicely, great job! what did you do with the chassis? dishwasher?
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Looking very nice !, what a difference !
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Brilliant! ;)
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Looking very nice !, what a difference !
Brilliant! ;)
Thanks ! :)
this is coming out nicely, great job! what did you do with the chassis? dishwasher?
Thanks! I was a bit worried about putting this in my dishwasher, so I tried to get off what I could with a clean, dry paintbrush, followed by water, then finally moved onto the "Bleche White" tire cleaner that people swear by for cleaning dirty chassis/PCBs.
Apparently it's a lousy product for cleaning tires, but works pretty well on PCBs :D
I was careful to work around any labels as that stuff is pretty nasty! I then rinsed off a few times with water and let it dry in the sun.
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In the land of all things Pole Position, check out this "Top Position" Namco Pole Position bootleg:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/TopPosition1.jpg)
Someone must've stolen the wheels since it's up on cinder blocks! :lol:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/TopPosition2.jpg)
The steering wheel looks like playground equipment.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/TopPosition3.jpg)
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Thats awesome !, i neve saw a cocktail racer!, very weird to see a steeringwheel on a table :D
Then take a look at this Monaco GP, it's even weirder, looks like they incorporated a Vectrex into the table ;D
(http://www.arcade-museum.com/images/115/1159434765.jpg)
http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=8733
I have it ;)
http://www.vernimark.com/arcade/default.asp?PageMode=3&PageMode2=3&GameID=500&tog=4&PictureID=1021#PictureID1021
you can play with it during next VASP 2013 (Vernimark Arcade Summer Party hehe)
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You got it from me ;D ;)
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nice to meet you again :)
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That looks nice - original steering wheel too 8)
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Since I had the chassis out, I figured I'd clean up the monitor shelf.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMonitorChassis.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMonitorShelf.jpg)
You can see where the chassis/tube sat, the original color of the wood.
I glued back together layers of laminate that were coming apart, and sanded the top slightly to get rid of most of the grime and bring the color of the wood closer to its original color.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMonitorShelfClean.jpg)
Hooked everything back up and powered it up for the first time in a few months. Everything looked good, but what's that smell? Sort of smells like BBQ. SMOKE! :-[
Something near the flyback area was smoking, so I quickly unplugged it. I couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from, but there was a sickly looking capacitor in the flyback cage area. The monitor still seemed to work fine despite the smoke, so I'll pull it out and check out that area. Hoping it's not the flyback itself going!
I pulled and repainted the rear speaker bolts black.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPSeatBoltsBlack.jpg)
I also sprayed a few coats of clear matte finish onto the CP. This really gave it the look I was hoping for in the first place:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPMatte.jpg)
Compared to:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRetainer.jpg)
and of course:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCPBefore.jpg)
I also painted various screws matte black, replaced the missing bezel screws, cleaned out the bezel channel so the bezel sat flush and stapled the new floor mat to the cabinet.
I finished mounting the new speakers in the font section. They were slightly larger around the edge than the originals, so I shaved one side of the speaker down and widened the speaker's mounting holes slightly so I could use re-use the original screw hole locations on the cabinet.
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Came out really nice, you took care about all the little details. ;)
Hope the chassis will be an easy fix.
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Yeah. looking sharp !
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Hi,
I have a question, i noticed that your chasis is lot like a chassis I have in my si. Can you tell me what the serialnumber of the transistor is? The one under the brown paper, metalhousing.... Screwed to the metal plat... Bottumside of the picture... Thanks
new pix plz ;D
Finally found my camera this week :oops:!
The retainer bar for the control panel was missing, so I crafted one up:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRetainerBarPre.jpg)
After drilling and painting:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRetainer.jpg)
Removed, de-rusted, and repainted the rusted rear speaker grilles (need to re-paint bolts black):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPSpeakerBefore.jpg)
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPPaintedGrilles.jpg)
I forgot the after pic of the chassis!:
Before:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPMonitorChassis.jpg)
After:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPChassisClean.jpg)
How it's currently looking (note repainted coin bucket/pedal plate now matches the laminate):
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PP98.jpg)
Before:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPRightSideBefore.jpg)
Next to do:
- Make new coin door
- Make mount system for the original coin mechanism setup
- Pick up more screws/bolts to replace any currently missing/incorrect
- Matte CP finish
- Make the seat :shock:
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Yeah. looking sharp !
Came out really nice, you took care about all the little details. ;)
Hope the chassis will be an easy fix.
Thanks! Me too ;D Althought I'm a bit worried I've been spending too much time on the small details, and haven't worked too much on bigger things.
For example, I still haven't quite decided what I want to do about the green laminate areas on the outside. I experimented with filling the bolt holes along the bottom with an epoxy mixed with matched green paint on one of the panels, and it turned out okaaay (in one of the right hand side cabinet pics above). I might sand smooth and re-paint but I haven't decided yet. I like things to be as original as possible! I wouldn't have as much of a problem with it if the cabinet came apart easily, but I tried to disassemble the back portion of the cockpit, and it seems like they put epoxy between all the screwed-in blocks/panels :'(
I'm thinking I'll probably leave the side art as is, aside from the black touchups, because it will be pretty difficult to get anything to match decently on the laminate surface.
Hi,
I have a question, i noticed that your chasis is lot like a chassis I have in my si. Can you tell me what the serialnumber of the transistor is? The one under the brown paper, metalhousing.... Screwed to the metal plat... Bottumside of the picture... Thanks
Sure thing! It may take me a couple of days.
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Also (I can't find the link at the moment :evil:) I found a thread on a car forum that detailed how someone restored the rotting grip of a steering wheel.
They mounted a piece of MDF onto a rotating turntable, and used a router to cut out a circle the size of the grip. They did the same on another piece, and cut the appropriate holes for the spokes, and a "pouring channel."
They then stuck the wheel inside of the two pieces of MDF, clamped them together and poured the rubber compound into the slot created on the MDF. Et voilà, a new steering wheel grip.
Might be a good method to try to restore the original wheel with.
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I began making the new coin door this week. I made the preliminary cuts/measurements out of steel.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCoinDoorCutout.jpg)
Unfortunately, I don't have a box brake, so I had to wing it with a vice and some clamps, but it turned out pretty well. Let's do a test fit.
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCoinDoorTestFit.jpg)
Whelp, the inside edges are a bit long so it doesn't close properly :oops:! I'll have to grind it down.
I also began creating the coin mechanism parts based on my Namco cocktail cabinet and some pics of a relatively stock Pole Position:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PPCoinDoorParts.jpg)
I picked up Idea Magazine's "VIDEO GAME GRAPHIC" based on our Tom#-2JP's suggestion in his thread (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3500) (どうもありがとうとむさん！！ :)). Lots of great Namco, Capcom and Sega artwork, logos, fonts, etc:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/VideoGameGraphic.jpg)
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Argh, sorry Laszo, I just realized I forgot to check that transistor while I was over working on it! :(
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Argh, sorry Laszo, I just realized I forgot to check that transistor while I was over working on it! :(
Don't worry I m a patient man :)
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Argh, sorry Laszo, I just realized I forgot to check that transistor while I was over working on it! :(
Don't worry I m a patient man :)
:) D900B 2L1, I believe the brand logo is Hitachi.
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Great thanks, gonna compare it with my chassis.
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I haven't forgotten about this gal! I now have a pretty good reference in hand for how the original seat was constructed:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PolePositionSeatReference.jpg)
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You do a perfect job. Well done ;)
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You know, that steering wheel look suspiciously just like a Grant Classic, which any good speed shop in California should have at least one on the shelf to compare the bolt patterns.
If that's the case, they still make them brand new.
Got a photo that shows the bolt pattern on the unmounted old wheel?
What diameter is it?
-Hans
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You do a perfect job. Well done ;)
Wow, thank you very much ! :)
You know, that steering wheel look suspiciously just like a Grant Classic, which any good speed shop in California should have at least one on the shelf to compare the bolt patterns.
If that's the case, they still make them brand new.
Got a photo that shows the bolt pattern on the unmounted old wheel?
What diameter is it?
-Hans
Thanks, Hans! I did actually take a look at the Grant Classics, I believe the bolt patterns were even the same. The depth, diameter and little nuances were a bit off as I recall :(.
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I replaced the toasted C524 (47uf/160V)capacitor near the flyback, and the chassis still seems to take about 10 min to warm up to display a full image.
I'll check the other components near the flyback, I'm fearing the flyback was on its way out however as the image 'warms up,' it's perfectly in focus and the correct size, just dark and 'blue.' More testing to do!
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(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/poleposition_action.jpg)
I came across this flyer (courtesy of Namconian). Looks to be some sort of rumble seat for Pole Position? Unfortunately the text that's legible doesn't seem to give much info other than "Experience the world of 313km/h!" or thereabouts.
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Picked up a Japanese language instruction card and manual. I should be getting some naugahyde samples shortly to pick the color and finish building the seat:
(http://flashpass.redirectme.net/steve/ArcadePics/PolePosition/PolePositionManualCard.jpg)