Q*bert. A man and his grail... FINISHED !!!

[level42]

Man, they always say arcade games were built to only last a couple of years, but anyone who has ever removed a CPO or sanded a cab bare to the bone can tell you it sure doesn't look like it !

But....after some hard work.....I end up with a very naked Q*bert. I bought sanding discs from Action and man, I can't believe how freaking good these are....seriously the longest lasting I've used and dirt cheap too !

They come in sets with P60, P120 and P240 grid and I used all three grids for nice finish.

The sides are TIGHT.... I do still have to look for any dents but the quick looks I had on both sides tell me there can't be that much....of course there is the corner/edge weaknesses but there's some stuff from Germany on it's way for that....

[level42]

Also some detail work done...The smaller one's are the originals, decided to keep some of the originals as they were not rusted, just needed some sanding, primer and paint. The one's I kept are for mounting the back/PCB board, figured it would be better to keep the original sizes there.
The bigger one's are the new metric one's.

[Etienne MacGyver]

Looks nice !

Did you have time to check the new version of the decal ?

[level42]

OH, one more thing !

Of course I figured I needed to do some measuring where the original side-art was on both sides....before sanding luckily

Still could easily see where the edges of the side art were

The side art is not "mirrored" with Q*bert so the distances vary. Also......some factory tolerance

[level42]

Looks nice !

Did you have time to check the new version of the decal ?

Yup and it's absolutely spot-on !
 

[level42]

ps. i still need measurements for this :

10,3 x 5,1 cm. sir ! 

[level42]

I also ordered some stuff from www.twistywristarcade.com (Riptor on KLOV forum), mostly for the Q*bert but also some other parts.

Among the stuff:
- connectors and trifurcon pins and polarizing keys for them
- new edge connector
- pot for the PSU board
- fuse holders for the power brick
- fuse kits for the brick and PSU board
- 27V 10W zener diode.....for some experimenting

Most important though: a volume pot for the aux panel and 3 used but original and cheap ballasts for the fluorescent tube. I figured at this price having 2 on stock would be nice.

Before you know it a total order like this is almost 100 bucks incl. shipping.....

Riptor is awesome....he refunded 2 bucks because the shipping was a little bit less than the site calculated....kinda nuts for 2 bucks, but it shows the kind of guy he is....like that for future business.

I did not order his rebuild kit for the PSU board. The reasons:
- all the caps on my board are still fine
- all the diodes on my board are still fine
- I think replacing the 30V zenerdiode by a 27V or even 24V one is totally the wrong thing to do. It only means more heat being generated on the PSU board.
I am still looking for a different solution though....either with the 27V 10W zener (this is a stud mounting diode which must be installed on a heatsink) or using a LM350 but more on that later)
- silicon TO-3. I stick to mica and grease as long as I can. Picked up 20 mica's at my local electronics dealer for just 10 cents a piece. It was all he had on stock and I mentioned he'd have to order new one's now....he replied he didnt't know if he would because they barely sold anymore. By the way I've been searching for votlage regulators and transistors in TO-3 format last weekend and it seems that slowly but surely, these things are starting to become extinct.
SMD is taking over I guess.....


Anyway, I'm not saying it's a bad kit and for some people it will be a great solution but not for me.

I do have some doubts about the other semi-conductors on the PSU, following the "crash" of the 5V section when I hook up the main board but I ordered these at a new address I found in The Netherlands:

https://www.distrelec.nl/elfa3~nl_nl/

The site isn't as comfortable as f.i. RS online, but this company allows you to even buy resistors per piece and shipping costs is only 5,50, free if you order above 50 euro. And you can buy as a consumer there too, no need for a chamber of commerce number.

They also have good quality (Panasonic and Rubycon) 105 degr. C caps.....

[level42]

Just came home and walked towards the gameroom and I was a little bit in shock to see this.......

In case you missed it, that dark spot is the normal "color" of the stones.....LOL

If you ever consider sanding a cab inside............don't

[Etienne MacGyver]

Okay, lets see;

Serial decal       
Warning decal   

working on the Bottom decal and the Aux panel decal

Do you have the measurements for the aux panel decal ?

I have placed two "dots" as it looks on the example that they are there, or is that dirt ?

[level42]

"Cabs ? Where we're going we don't need cabs !"

[level42]

It's running on a switcher for the 5V now...other voltages from original power supply set-up....I am partly thinking about keeping it that way.....if the 5V section of the original board really cooks like people say I might go for keeping it like this....

Parts from Www.twistywristarcade.com will be here tomorrow.......things are on a roll !

Big thanks to Robin for his help on this....I did give him something nice in return, hope you'll get some good use from it

[Muerto]

Cant remember if this has been asked, but are you planning to throw Mike Doyles 10 in 1 in there?

[Nic-fryer]

Okay, lets see;

Serial decal      
Warning decal  

working on the Bottom decal and the Aux panel decal

Do you have the measurements for the aux panel decal ?

I have placed two "dots" as it looks on the example that they are there, or is that dirt ?

Etienne, I hate to question your awesome vector skills, but, to me that font looks too bold

[level42]

Cant remember if this has been asked, but are you planning to throw Mike Doyles 10 in 1 in there?

Good question.

I never thought I would actually finish the Q*bert before the JROK board would become available, but now it sure looks like that will happen !!!

But I still have some doubt between spending my money on the 10in1 kit or get a JROK board.

The best thing about the JROK board is being able to play Mad Planets (for which I would definitly make a seperate CP) but now all the original hardware is here....it would be kinda waste to not run it.

I think for the time I will just enjoy the original single game. It's fun enough as it is, I actually played it yesterday (although without sounds, couldn't hook up my hacked in pot and the aux panel together and I didn't want to do more hacking as the pot (and other stuff) arrives tomorrow

[Etienne MacGyver]

No problem, positive criticism is Always welcome , thats the way things can be improved  

You are absolutely right, but..  it was not finished yet  

working on the Bottom decal and the Aux panel decal
Do you have the measurements for the aux panel decal ?
I have placed two "dots" as it looks on the example that they are there, or is that dirt ?

I need to make it thinner indeed.