how to ... REMOVE A NECKBOARD???

[Superully]

another one of my "famous" how to-entries ! this time i'd like to know how (or if) i can remove the following neckboard from the tube



i haven't tried anything yet, because i'm not sure if it can even be removed, that's why some input would be great - as always! thx guys!!!

[Etienne MacGyver]

Normally you can "wiggle" them off..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNnbEPY7DVM&feature=BF&list=PL160A60DABEA7973C&index=25

Skip untill +- 2 minutes in the video..

[level42]

Just pull it backwards. Don't wiggle too much !!!

[Superully]

i managed to pull of the neckboard - piece of cake if you know that it can come off and how to do it. thx guys!



i pulled the chassis (it's from my paperboy) because i want to do a cap kit on the monitor (picture is distorted / shaky and colors are a little off / washed out)

two more questions:

would you replace the capacitors on the neckboard itself?



what about those capacitors on the little extra board which is also part of the chassis - replace 'em? (two pics of the board: one still installed, the other one already removed)



i thought now that i've set up my equipment and have enough time on my hands, i could as well do some cap kits - you could even call it CAP KIT FEVER!!! unfortunately i don't have any documentation for that type of chassis, not even the guys on KLOV were able to help me out, which means i have to do this manually by taking a lot of pictures and notes!

[Etienne MacGyver]

if you cannot find a capkit list, the you can ofcourse replace them all
a capkit is nothing more that a list of caps that have the more high faillure rate

it will not mean that this will solve your problem, there can be caps bad that are not in the kit

get what i am trying to say ?

[level42]

Yes, do all the caps now that you've got it out and are going to work on it anyway.

The caps on the neckboard are mainly in the color amplification circuit (that's what the big LM chip does) and if colors are weak (as you mention) this might help.

Also check the pots ! If some are working jittery, replace them !

[Superully]

thx guys, i'll replace them all then! more capacitor questions (of a general matter) in my capacitor thread soon - stay tuned!

[italiandoh]

thx guys, i'll replace them all then! more capacitor questions (of a general matter) in my capacitor thread soon - stay tuned!

This monitor looks like a Selti dual frequency 15/25 kHz automatic.
If the picture is shaky I'd check the power supply section of the monitor first, making sure the voltages out of it are all correct and steady.
Looking at the neckboard, I'd try replacing the black capacitor which looks in bad shape, near the three power transistors. Then I'd check the value of the three power resistors: these usually tend to go high resistance over time and the result is poor colors on screen.

Matteo

[Superully]

This monitor looks like a Selti dual frequency 15/25 kHz automatic.

here is my thread on klov about the monitor!

Looking at the neckboard, I'd try replacing the black capacitor which looks in bad shape, near the three power transistors. Then I'd check the value of the three power resistors: these usually tend to go high resistance over time and the result is poor colors on screen.

black capacitor on the neckboard in bad shape? which ones is that? and what's a power resistor? (don't bash my, i'm trying to learn here)

[level42]

The big fat blue resistors (three next to each other in the corner).

The cap Italian means is likely the one right next to the three transistors. (there is almost no outside cover on the top anymore, this could indicate it's bad AND because it's so near the transistors and power resistors it has been taking a lot of heat.

[italiandoh]

This monitor looks like a Selti dual frequency 15/25 kHz automatic.

here is my thread on klov about the monitor!

Looking at the neckboard, I'd try replacing the black capacitor which looks in bad shape, near the three power transistors. Then I'd check the value of the three power resistors: these usually tend to go high resistance over time and the result is poor colors on screen.

black capacitor on the neckboard in bad shape? which ones is that? and what's a power resistor? (don't bash my, i'm trying to learn here)

I've taken a look at your post on the other forum. You have an Intervideo dual frequency, which is basically a clone of the Selti. Paperboy uses it a 25 kHz (mid res). At that time the two manufacturers (both italian) were cooperating on monitor design, so they're pretty much the same.

Matteo

[italiandoh]

The big fat blue resistors (three next to each other in the corner).

The cap Italian means is likely the one right next to the three transistors. (there is almost no outside cover on the top anymore, this could indicate it's bad AND because it's so near the transistors and power resistors it has been taking a lot of heat.

Correct.

Matteo

[Superully]

I've taken a look at your post on the other forum. You have an Intervideo dual frequency, which is basically a clone of the Selti. Paperboy uses it a 25 kHz (mid res). At that time the two manufacturers (both italian) were cooperating on monitor design, so they're pretty much the same.

thx matteo for checking it out. are there any manuals / schematics for the monitor?

[Superully]

The big fat blue resistors (three next to each other in the corner).
The cap Italian means is likely the one right next to the three transistors. (there is almost no outside cover on the top anymore, this could indicate it's bad AND because it's so near the transistors and power resistors it has been taking a lot of heat.

guys, sorry, but you see me confused here. one persons says blue, the other black, one person says capacitor, the other resistor let me show you some pics again which i took for reference







oh, and one more thing: as you can see on the neckboard pcb, the cut green knob on the lower right is missing. i'm sure it can be replaced, but where can i find parts like that? thx for your help!

[level42]

We were talking about the neckboard, weren't we ?



Top right corner, 3 thick blue things=resistors

Right below them are three transistors in a row. (The one's with the meta "cooling plates" mounted on them)

Left of that there is the cap we Italian means...it's C18.

No need for the knob, you can move them from one pot to the other (simply pull one out) or simply adjust the pot (if needed) with a screwdriver.