Soldering Advice Needed

[Superully]

So, to start running old solderings, you will need to add a little NEW solder.  So put the iron on the old soldering, and then add a little new solder until it becomes fluid, then remove the new solder.

so basically i put the tip of the soldering iron on the old solderings, hold the soldering wire to the tip of the solderingh wire until it flows, wait until the entire "mount fuji" becomes fluid and then suck it up? i've tried this, but still nothing happens

[Etienne MacGyver]

and if it still does not flow....



kidding ofcourse 

[Superully]

and if it still does not flow....

thx etienne, that worked ...

[Etienne MacGyver]

I dont know the surrounding area, but if there are not too much parts in the neighbourhood,and its really a mountain of tin, you can try something with a little more kick ...



just add new solder like mentioned before, or flux it like hell

it must come loose !

[Superully]

i'm slowly starting to get the hang of it, but it is slow work indeed - at that rate my cap kit will be done by christmas . one joint refused to "melt" at all PLUS the solder-wick somehow doesn't do it for me, can't get it to "suck up" the old solder properly.

another question: once i've removed an old cap, do you somehow clean the area where the solder was with something like a fiberglass brush to get all the residues off?

and one more: i've found something called "kolophonium" in my soldering box and while i've looked up on the internet what that stuff is, i still don't quite know when to use it?

[level42]

Sounds to me your soldering iron is not producing enough heat OR the tip has worn out.
Does NEW solder actually melt right away when you touch it ? If not, it's not hot enough.

Get a good tool, you're going to be annoyed like hell for the rest of the time (and also probably make very unreliable solderings....)


Cleaning up residue is a good idea but not with a glass fiber pen (you will scratch away the protective plastic layer at some spots). Use some kitchen-towel and 99% alcohol (get it at the chemists). Maybe a toothbrush or another small brush.

O and Wikipedia is your friend:
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolophonium

[Superully]

Sounds to me your soldering iron is not producing enough heat OR the tip has worn out.
Does NEW solder actually melt right away when you touch it ? If not, it's not hot enough.

that's what i've been thinking as well. it DOES melt the solder, but not at the very tip of the iron (i'm using a very thin tip). plus sometimes the solder in the iron "hardens" while i'm trying to apply it to the new capacitor making the soldering iron stuck at the joint for a few milliseconds (know what i mean?). guess i should be looking for a new soldering station, unfortunately the one on rs online was only on offer in holland

O and Wikipedia is your friend:
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolophonium

i had already read that, but i still don't understand when and how to use that stuff? do i apply it on top of a new joint i've made?

one more thing: the "mount fuji thing" doesn't work like it should for me, most of my solderings don't look extremely clean and mountainous. i'm trying to do it as i've seen it in some of the videos: put the soldering iron on one side of the capacitors leg and holding the soldering wick to the other side should make the solder melt and flow, but nothing happens at all. and when i apply the solder to the iron itself (which i was told is not the way to do it, sometimes it doesn't stick to the capacitors leg at all). man, this is more complicated than i had thought it was going to be. however, probably all due to my soldering iron not being able to hold / produce the temperature needed. guess i'll have to put my stuff away for a while and look out for a new station ...

[Etienne MacGyver]

the tip does not warm up good as i understand you correctly

many times there is a screw that fixes the tip to the tool
unscrew, take out the tip, take a grinder, or sandpaper and clean the tip, or install a new tip

if its really dirty and burned use a file (Datei in german)



make sure that the screw is as tight as possible after you reinstall the tip, thats essential for heat conductivity

test with new solder on the tip
it should melt like crazy, if not buy a new station

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krxTfZCFptk

maybe Andre can forward the one that was in offer at RS online

[level42]

Trouble is that it was only on offer for a day IIRC.

I think filing maybe a bad idea for SOME tips, but I don't know what Ully's using.

Ully, EVERYTHING you mention points exactly to too little heat. The solder should do the work "by itself" If it's hot enough it will flow, if it's hot enough it will form a nice "mount Fuji" too. I bet your solderings are not shiny looking either.

One more thing: solder wick is this:


Sounds you're confusing it with solder (tin):


The wick is used to get old solder out of soldering holes.

Forget about that stuff you found in your soldering toolbox. You shouldn't need it with soldering electronics.

[Superully]

nope, i meant WICK yesterday - doesn't suck up the older solder well. guess it's time for a new soldering station

[ckong]

Get a new soldering station and your worries will be over.

[Superully]

Get a new soldering station and your worries will be over.

if only i knew which one to buy ...

[liquidx]

Farnell have a whole bunch of them.

This one is the cheapest.

[Etienne MacGyver]

that looks nice, its digital, it comes with sponge, and with brass tip cleaner, so it looks like a nice set for not too much money

personally i preffer weller, but this should be better than your old one 

[ckong]

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUyetZ5RtPs&NR=1

 

That's another way to do it!

Another good video: http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/101