Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: Superully on February 28, 2010, 07:54:16 PM
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thx to andré and his belgium warehouse raid, i'm the proud owner of an original berzerk cabinet. i must admit i've never played this game in the arcades back in the days, but it was one of my absolute favourites on my beloved vextrex which i still play from time to time.
now that one of the three cabinets has found its way to my place, it's time to give this beauty the "superully treatment". while i was lucky to score one of the cabinets with the original bat joystick, i wasn't that lucky when it comes to the cabinet itself. all the berzerk cabinets suffer from the same problem: no leg levelers! the only thing they have to move them around easily are two wheels at the bottom of the cabinet. one can scream out the words "wood damage" loudly!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2769/4395649766_a88d87fae6_b.jpg)
in order to prevent any further damages in the future, it's time to "reveal" a new tool i got FOR FREE from a friend of my brother: a pillar drilling machine!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4395649580_2611755c32_b.jpg)
it will help me to create some leg levelers for the game. here's what i need :arrow:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2683/4395649024_3d2b555555_b.jpg)
first, i'm drilling a wider hole for the t-nuts to "sink into"
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2725/4394882135_fb9b5841dd_b.jpg)
the pillar drilling machine helps me to drill straight through the big block of wood
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2696/4395649406_aed1f33148_b.jpg)
and here they are: 4 stylish leg levelers :)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2734/4394882603_3a779d919b_b.jpg)
let's glue them under the cabinet!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4395649930_0896365dc1_b.jpg)
now that i can move the cabinet around safely and easily, let's check out its condition! right side ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4394883841_1fa571d663_b.jpg)
... and left side!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4395650604_a46f3498af_b.jpg)
the cabinet has the usual wear on the corners
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2793/4395650838_3877652547_b.jpg)
and the sides also suffered a little over the years
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4394884337_a3b8997f31_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4395651470_037359f9c7_b.jpg)
but worst of all is the bottom of the cabinet - caused by moving the game around WITHOUT leg levelers
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4013/4394883749_1d42c3f089_b.jpg)
in detail
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4394883441_4a193a8630_b.jpg)
ouch - that hurts! :'(
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4395648602_88df17b0d6_b.jpg)
but before i start with the woodworks, i need to remove the pcb drawer board from the cabinet (because it's so damn heavy). for those of you who don't know how this works, here's a short description: all of the pcbs are mounted on a single board of wood which can be easily accessed from the front by opening a small "compartment". the drawer board is mounted on some kind of sliding rails and can be pulled out which makes working on the pcbs a piece of cake!
here's the pcb drawer board already removed. notice that some of the pcbs are missing because at the time of the removal they were at andre's place for a magical repair session! thx andre :-*!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/4394884597_10531a0d1c_b.jpg)
as you can see on the following picture, the grip which you use to pull out the drawer board is damaged! but not for long ... ;)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2715/4395651856_92c44962fa_b.jpg)
pcbs and wiring removed
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4394885035_e8fffd147f_b.jpg)
and finally: metal strips removed - check out the heat spots on the metal plate
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/4395653744_38728ec130_b.jpg)
although nobody (except myself) is ever going to see the inside of the cabinet, i want to have those parts clean and shiny. call me anal, i don't care :P
here they are, lined up nicely
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2798/4394886109_5e709557b5_b.jpg)
some detail shots - see the rust and the oxidation?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4394886585_1aecd468ee_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2770/4395653042_da548fb0b7_b.jpg)
first order of business: throw the strips into my giant rust remover bath. check out the reaction :o
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4395653454_4b8020cc41_b.jpg)
the parts will spend a cozy night cuddled up together
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2679/4394887059_00101572d3_b.jpg)
the next day, some steel wool and metal polish should do the trick
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2494/4395654052_2bd260d7be_b.jpg)
after a lot of ellbow grease and hand sanding / polishing ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4395654484_f20564abd1_b.jpg)
... the strips look way better!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2769/4395655386_f2a13fb918_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4394889015_fa22ac78ff_b.jpg)
another candidate are the sliders on which the drawer board is being moved back and forth: here's their original condition :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4394885461_59994bf359_b.jpg)
in detail
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2721/4394886297_d4e49bda70_b.jpg)
much better after the same kind of treatment
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2741/4394889203_8875266f7e_b.jpg)
the flat cables have collected a lot of dirt and dust over the years
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4395656172_5cfd16c5cb_b.jpg)
fortunately i have a tooth brush at home ;)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4394889895_3a82f2e71a_b.jpg)
the damaged wooden grip has been reconstructed ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4395655206_6c70dde451_b.jpg)
... and repainted!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2767/4394888393_46314675b2_b.jpg)
voila - the clean pcb drawer board (still missing some of the pcbs). because of its weight, it will stay out of the cabinet until the cosmetic restorations have been completed.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2740/4394889533_e7bd04c8f4_b.jpg)
the inside of the cabinet is extremely dirty and smelly
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/4395046789_365eca589c_b.jpg)
so i'm using a sander to remove the layers of dirt - much better afterwards!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2725/4395813870_a99bb54d09_b.jpg)
in fact, it's so clean now that our cat pesto likes to sit inside and watch me work - well, at least as much as a blind cat can do that!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4395814318_9dbfe070fe_b.jpg)
in between, some minor work to be done like cleaning the marquee. see that brown layer?
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2727/4394887649_088417e198_b.jpg)
fortunately, this is cleaning up nicely
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4394888123_6c81a90d41_b.jpg)
this is worth another "voila", don't you think?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4395654632_2ccd81d946_b.jpg)
now the woodworks: you've already seen me do a lot of wood filling and sanding, so i won't plague you with hundreds of pictures - just a few ;)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2766/4394881571_2e24efcc2a_b.jpg)
sanded down
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/4395648482_0f67724b26_b.jpg)
as always - happy with the results! ;D
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4395648350_522b6347a7_b.jpg)
up next: restoring the coin door and repainting the cabinet - because of the structure used this is going to be interesting
to be continued ...
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looking good ully! - fortunately my cab was not so damaged, but hey, you got the one with the Bat joystick ;)
And poor cat, is it bumping in to a lot of things with that poor sight :-\
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What, didn't you try your ZPU board yet ?? ;D ;D ;D
I'm up for a set of those leg-levelers !!!
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I'm up for a set of those leg-levelers !!!
i'll make you one!!! you've done so much for us regarding the berzerk, the least i can do is make you a set of leg levelers ;)
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Thank you !!!! ;D
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Like always, the "Ully treatment" is looking good so far !
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Nice work on those strips ad very good work with the leg levelers! Without the need to drill your cab you had an excellent result :pac: :pac: :pac:
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the restoration continues ...
since the cabinet itself is in an average state (damaged wood, faded colors), it's going to need some layers of fresh paint.
just to give you an impression, check out how worn the front of the cabinet is :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4445279174_a4db691a38_b.jpg)
there are parts of the cabinet which just need to be hit by some fresh spray can paint
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4444507963_1362907f58_b.jpg)
et voilà
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4444508035_f4c4c98d95_b.jpg)
however, the problem with repainting a berzerk cabinet is that the original paint wasn't applied evenly, but that some kind of structure "within the paint" was used to create a three-dimensional effect. take out your modern 3-d glasses, guys 8)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4445278890_459909f395_b.jpg)
because i had to reconstruct parts of the cabinet and other parts of the structure were worn out, i can't simply repaint the cabinet, because i would lose that structure. i've been thinking back and forth about how to recreate that original look, have tried at least three different types of structure spray cans, but none of them gave me results i was looking for.
up next, i tried mixing the paint with different grains of sand. here's are some examples on a test board
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4445278288_ca7e448d9b_b.jpg)
close-up of one test run: difficult to see on that picture, but the sand didn't blend in well with the paint and the structure was too strong! :(
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2754/4445278228_1656700dd6_b.jpg)
coming up: one of my favorite arcade stories ;D :arrow:
it was obvious to me that it wasn't going to work out with the sand, so i started to look somewhere else. at that time i was lucky to spot phetishboy's restoration thread of his berzerk over on the klov forum. he had repainted / restencilled his entire cabinet (which i was not planning on doing) by adding some kind of "sand structure" (at least that's what he called it) to his paint and rolling it on afterwards. i was happy with the results he had achieved and so i asked him whether he could get one of those sand structure bags for me. he told me he didn't have to, because there was so much left of the structure in the bag that he would gladly pass it on to me FOR FREE :)! now we're talking :-*
i asked him to send it over to brian from gamestencils.com who's very helpful in collecting arcade stuff for me at his place and then sending it over in one huge package (to save on shipping costs). so brian packed everything up and off with it to germany!
i waited ...
(one week)
... and waited ...
(another week)
... and waited ...
(some more days)
... until i finally received a notification from customs to pick up some arcade stuff at their place.
i was thrilled that the package had finally arrived, so i quickly went over to pick it up. the guys at the customs already know me (and my arcade stuff) by now, so i had a little chitchat with them about why it took so long for the package to arrive this time. well, the answer was obvious! have a look at the following picture :o
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/4444507273_33795c7865_b.jpg)
i'm pretty sure you're thinking the same thoughts the customs' guys were thinking: a plastic bag with white powder inside and on top of that the message "enjoy ully" written on the bag ... hmmm ...
THAT GUY IS TRYING TO SMUGGLE COCAINE INTO THE COUNTRY!!!
can you blame them?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4445278366_e16cdc801f_b.jpg)
so they did some testing with that stuff, but eventually came to the conclusion that it was not cocaine, but something else. i had some explaining to do, but in the end they handed it over to me :spaceace:
anyone got a better story to tell? :P
ok, back to berzerk business. let's do some testing with the cocaine powder by adding it to the paint
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4445279416_77f5ce5d06_b.jpg)
i'm trying different ratios to get as close to the original structure as possible
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2684/4444507589_82e676547a_b.jpg)
after a lot of testing, i'm extremely happy with the results. way better than my sand and spray can tests. it's going to need some sanding (and spraying) afterwards, but all in all this is the way to do it!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4444507761_0b9885df37_b.jpg)
the sideart needs to be masked off, because i'm going to hit the cabinet with some black spray can layers first
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4445279244_a5db0c248d_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4444508255_bdbff6ac23_b.jpg)
here we go!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4444508309_3f42d128bb_b.jpg)
afterwards, the white powder - black color mix is being rolled on
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4445279478_ab48d2500b_b.jpg)
and the results are in! coming up: some BEFORE and AFTER shots 8)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2766/4445277968_32d539f71a.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4445279734_9c73ed828d.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2774/4445278040_184588a434.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2733/4444508815_754d3d6d49.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4445278110_1db7f42ac9.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4445279608_0c9e02eabf.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4445278686_8cf521cf88.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4445280198_374df79a13.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2695/4445278422_cb50be3a81.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4445277356_61d659046f.jpg)
the cabinet's front
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4444509337_fbd0c8cfd8_b.jpg)
and the sides :-*
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4445280422_559029cec5_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2540/4445280354_bf7df4f89f_b.jpg)
the large screws which hold the monitor frame in place go right through the artwork
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2700/4444506689_7fd088dc09.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4444506623_d5757c1245.jpg)
originally, those screws were shiny and silver, but i don't like the look of those silver screws amidst the black, blue and red artwork, that's why i'm painting them to fit in with the rest
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4444506803_bcdc307790_b.jpg)
the back door didn't have any structure at all, but in order to blend in with the cabinet, this needs to be corrected 8)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/4445279910_312ee6e5ee_b.jpg)
a close-up of the back door after repainting it
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4444509131_221f225e8c_b.jpg)
of course, no lock is complete without the correct keyring
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4444509183_1485697da0_b.jpg)
when i put the cabinet on its back, i realized that there was a gap of about 5 millimeters between the control panel area and the wooden front - i have to admit, it's difficult to spot on the picture!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4445277540_2a449e4f7e_b.jpg)
although this gap is not visible when the cabinet is in its upright position, i don't like the idea of it being there (dust!), that's why i'm using some black silicone to seal it off
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2691/4445277434_21def0d18c_b.jpg)
nothing's going to get in there anymore!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2726/4444506547_ea4ec8349c_b.jpg)
to be continued ...
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Very nice work Ully, as always you are very thorough with your restorations.
And now I am thinking of all your ongoing projects you almost seem to have a restoration factory. Maybe you should consider doing this professionally, there might be a market for it. :)
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wow that looks marvellous. An absolute improvement
nice story too about the sand/cocaine :pac:
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Looks great!
So and now you can have sent over bags full of real cocaine and the customs guys will only think "ah, Ully is painting some cabs again" ;D
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Looking good ully !
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good job !!! :wink:
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Nr.1 ;)
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Looking great! That structure paint is impressive. :)
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Incredible job Ully !!! :o
Congrats.
:spaceace:
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Great work. :D
It would be nice to see all the cabinets that got the superully treatment lined up together. That must be one hell of a sight
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the restoration continues ...
the monitor area after some layers of fresh paint and a lot of kitchen towels
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4466734383_f494b16beb_b.jpg)
overall, the bezel itself is in good condition, just some minor flaking on the edges which won't be visible in the dark
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4467508478_4a6c38645e_b.jpg)
gotta love :-* that artwork
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4467508638_7ccd29003a_b.jpg)
the old dutch instruction card is being replaced by a NOS english one
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4467508762_25360efa82_b.jpg)
and the entire setup on location
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2738/4466729509_c0291534e7_b.jpg)
on to the coin door . although it looks ok at first glance, this is going to take a while. here's a BEFORE shot of it :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4466729831_b15260813e_b.jpg)
like the cabinet itself, the coin door and the coin door frame have a striking structure as well. have a look ...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/4467505044_cdfb642556_b.jpg)
i've had a talk with "my powdercoater" - he is not able to reproduce that structure, that's why giving it a new coat of paint there is not an option
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4467505216_22c063b086_b.jpg)
i love details like that
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4466730997_015df5683e_b.jpg)
unfortunately, rust is everywhere
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4467505406_10e8713e78_b.jpg)
i'm using some steel wool first to remove the surface rust
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2731/4466731371_22d8587f4b_b.jpg)
and then i'm using an anti-rust primer which is supposed to work well with the rust still on the metal pieces
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2797/4467505836_bd97d079f0_b.jpg)
after applying some layers of black, here's how the coin door looks
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4466731499_048d6f8bbe_b.jpg)
in detail - notice that the structure is still there, but the rust and some scratches are gone
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4466731649_2b1ce5e14e.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2794/4467506394_f79513de5e.jpg)
because of the rust i had to remove the old stern sticker from the center of the coin door. in order to get the replacement sticker on flat, the structure on the center plate has to go
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2679/4467506678_a6a0af0498_b.jpg)
here's the replacement sticker that andré found on an american pinball webshop
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2765/4467506506_86be61169f_b.jpg)
unfortunately, there's something wrong with the sticker itself, a production error. all the colors are transparent, even the red and the blue (which should not be the case) and because of that the writing in unreadable once the sticker has been applied. check it out for yourself! :'(
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4466733345_d4fa34350e_b.jpg)
there are two options regarding the sticker: andré has sent rich from thisoldgame.com a scan of the sticker to have it reproduced there OR there's another version of the stern coin door stickers available. i have to think about which route to take for a while ...
now on with the "interiors". here are the parts which could use some scrubbing
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4467506890_86df6dcea2_b.jpg)
as always, some BEFORE and AFTER shots
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2770/4466732323_29e2951039.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4007/4466732461_7c0dfedd4b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4466732605_a23809defe.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2785/4466732885_df1d075b98.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4466733011_6a1d06f6ab.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4467508216_26d4880ccd.jpg)
the following piece has already been cleaned on the left side, the right side is still in its original state - what a difference :o
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4466732733_d172505e7f_b.jpg)
i wasn't happy with those "2x5 franc 1 play" plastic inserts, because (a) i eventually want to run the game on tokens and (b) they were partially damaged so that the coin door lights shone through. by pure luck, i found some stern replacement plastic inserts on a german pinball webshop
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2703/4467508340_d28fa1d7e4_b.jpg)
after removing the old plastic inserts and installing the new ones, this is how the illuminated coin door looked - very disappointing :(
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4467508854_92880349ed_b.jpg)
when you have a look at the coin door from the back, it's easy to see why the stern plastic insert is illuminated just partially: the coin door lights are too far away
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4467509358_5e391a5c21_b.jpg)
so let's bring out the saw and use some of my mac guyver skills
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2637/4466729045_166b5b4047_b.jpg)
much better from the inside ...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2747/4466734609_d9e1d079ef_b.jpg)
... and fan-ta-bulous-stic from the outside! bringing the coin door lights closer to the plastic inserts (unwillingly) also "added" some ambient light to the plastic coin inserts. this looks gorgeous in the dark! :)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4466734247_ee3303dab0_b.jpg)
because i love that game so much, i thought "i need to have something else as a keyring pendant than the normal plastic arcade flyer thingy". and believe it or not, three weeks ago a friend of mine was clearing out his cellar and came upon a very nice toy which he gave me as a present (because he knows i love stuff like that). at first i thought about putting it on top of the cabinet, but then my brain cells connected - my berzerk keyring pendant was born. i had to partially disassemble the toy in order to get that hook through the metal head cover, but it worked like a charm. enough written, here it is: mr roboto!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2794/4466729201_7baab5654d_b.jpg)
on location 8)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2758/4467503990_c79f3dbdd8_b.jpg)
and the entire coin door (minus the coin door sticker): i'm thrilled!!! :spaceace:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4466730179_90ba0bd2f2_b.jpg)
to be continued ...
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excellent Ully !
I love the robot keyring !, very original ! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Looks great Ully, I wish I could play on an original Berzerk once! :D
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great looking ully! - now set a high score on it! :)
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great looking ully! - now set a high score on it! :)
i would (try to), but after two days it has stopped working again. all i get is three beeps on power-up and a jumbled mess on the screen. i guess it's the flat cables again, because i already had to replace some to get it working, but i've run out of spare flat cables to give it a try! :'(
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2637/4466729045_166b5b4047_b.jpg)
[detail mode on]
That is a standard PC screw ;D
[/detail mode off]
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Ully, this might be your solution:
http://www.wowway.com/%7Eookpik72/brl.html
Scroll down a bit to see the part about replacing the flat-cables. I've got a set of those right here, I bought the cable and cut it but never used it. However this is not for ALL the flatcables in the game so you might need a second one, but at least it gives you 4 new connections
Let me know if you want my set. The cost was 9 euro. (http://www.alternate.nl/html/product/Kabels_U-SCSI/Advance_Peripherals/SCSI-tower-kabel/-1002674/?tn=HARDWARE&l1=Kabels&l2=U-SCSI)
The only "bad" thing about this is that you have some extra pins that won't be used so you have to be VERY careful to hook it up correctly.
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I've got a set of those right here, I bought the cable and cut it but never used it. However this is not for ALL the flatcables in the game so you might need a second one, but at least it gives you 4 new connections
so you've already cut up the cable and installed the connectors? 4 of them? those are for the wider flatcables, what about the smaller ones? can i find replacements for those as well?
The only "bad" thing about this is that you have some extra pins that won't be used so you have to be VERY careful to hook it up correctly.
extra pins where? aren't the connectors the same ones used on the original cables?
three beeps means that the zpu is working, right? would it make sense to replace some of the other boards first or are damaged flatcables the main reason for failure?
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At 3 beeps, and if the flat-cables are OK, the first thing to replace is the BSC. You "follow the chain" downwards...
Yes I already cut up the cable and sanded off the side a bit (else they don't fit). But I didn't use them in the end because my original flat-cables are OK.
Remind me, how many pins are the smaller ones ? (Berzerk is in storage).
The connectors are not the same. They are SCSI cables. They have 50 pins, 25 on top, 25 on bottom of the connector. You use only the top row (or the bottom, whichever you choose) on both PCB's. And you only use 23 pins of course, so two are "left over" on one side of the connector.
It works great, I tested it, even with the longer cable.
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thx for the enlightenment :-*
i'll have to do some more testing on wednesday, but i might take you up on your "cable offer"!
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At 3 beeps, and if the flat-cables are OK, the first thing to replace is the BSC. You "follow the chain" downwards...
ok, had the time to do some testing today. i swapped around the flat cables and exchanged the boards. can't replace the BSC board anymore though, because the original one on my machine was dead and has already been replaced, so i don't have a spare BSC anymore.
all i'm still getting is three beeps, sometimes a jumbled up "moving" picture, sometimes a jumbled up still image and sometimes no picture at all - just the three beeps. it all depends on the swapped boards AND the used flat cables.
Remind me, how many pins are the smaller ones ? (Berzerk is in storage).
the smaller ones (are supposed to) have 18 pins, but some of the pins have been removed.
It works great, I tested it, even with the longer cable.
i guess it's time to give this a try, because i can't seem to get it up and running again :'(. just to make sure: those four cables you have prepared already have the four connectors on each side installed? so it would be a plug in and test (hopefully play) thingy?
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Yeah, plug and hopefully play....
Are you 100% sure your original BSC board is dead (it could be the three beeps were caused by the bad flatcables) I mean,did you test the board with the GOOD flatcables ?
18 pins sucks...floppy cables are 17 (x2) pins, I was thinking of using those for the smaller connections....however these are not important for the connection between ZPU and BSC.
Did you measure the flatcables ? Measure them in Ohms (not diode-test "beep" setting !) pin by pin to see if any contact problems actually exist. This will rule out bad from good flatcables. You can measure on top of the connector (there the metal pins are blank).
Ully I believe I have your data on your original boards. If I'm right your original BSC has no ser.nr. sticker but it's mfr. date is dec.12 1980
Also if all is well I shipped you BSC ser.nr. 14989 right ? (Just to keep track).
The problem is that I don't have a working BSC here anymore. Michael now has a working spare one because his original is running IIRC. Maybe Michael can ship it ?
On the BSC, it is often the RAM chips failing, so it could be a pretty easy fix. I haven't had the time to work on the other Berzerk boards yet.....
Don't give up, welcome to the wonderful world of keeping 30 year old games alive ;)
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Are you 100% sure your original BSC board is dead (it could be the three beeps were caused by the bad flatcables) I mean,did you test the board with the GOOD flatcables ?
yes, i'm sure. when i powered the machine up for the first time last week, i got no picture and no beeps. i tried swapping the boards - nothing. then you told me about the flat cables. i changed two of them which looked damaged (the ones going to the bsc board and when i turned the game on, i got three beeps and a jumbled up picture. i changed the the original bsc board with the spare one i had and the game was working. just to make sure, i changed the board back and it wasn't working anymore. PLUS my original board seems to have some kind of acid damage, so i think from what i've done we can assume it's not working.
Did you measure the flatcables ? Measure them in Ohms (not diode-test "beep" setting !) pin by pin to see if any contact problems actually exist. This will rule out bad from good flatcables. You can measure on top of the connector (there the metal pins are blank).
no, haven't done that yet, but will do so tomorrow. all i have to do is set the multimeter to ohm and see if there is any resistance, right? it should show 0.0, right? if a cabl passes that test, is it working or do i have to run a continuity test as well?
Ully I believe I have your data on your original boards. If I'm right your original BSC has no ser.nr. sticker but it's mfr. date is dec.12 1980
Also if all is well I shipped you BSC ser.nr. 14989 right ? (Just to keep track).
i can confirm that the one you shipped to me has the serial number 14989, my original (not working) bsc however does have a serial sticker, the number is 01525. and - as i've already said - it looks like it has some kind of acid damage, will try to get a pic of it tomorrow!
The problem is that I don't have a working BSC here anymore. Michael now has a working spare one because his original is running IIRC. Maybe Michael can ship it ?
On the BSC, it is often the RAM chips failing, so it could be a pretty easy fix. I haven't had the time to work on the other Berzerk boards yet.....
let's see which results my flat cable check produces tomorrow and then we can take it from there ...
18 pins sucks...floppy cables are 17 (x2) pins, I was thinking of using those for the smaller connections....however these are not important for the connection between ZPU and BSC.
so no replacements for those? perhaps i don't need them if the ohm tests are ok.
Don't give up, welcome to the wonderful world of keeping 30 year old games alive ;)
thx, i have arrived ;) i'm not giving up on this of course, the game is simply too good and the repro control panels are getting closer to being finished every do!
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no, haven't done that yet, but will do so tomorrow. all i have to do is set the multimeter to ohm and see if there is any resistance, right? it should show 0.0, right? if a cabl passes that test, is it working or do i have to run a continuity test as well?
Yes that is correct. It should be like 0.1, 0.2 ohms, something like that. Anything above 1 Ohms is suspicious at least.
No need to do the continuity after the Ohms test. The Ohms test is a more accurate version of the continuity for this application.
You can leave the flat-cables on the boards if that's easier for you to measure them.
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ok, did some more testing today and found two additional bad flat cables - making it a total of FOUR :o now i don't have any spare obes left!
unfortunately, the game still isn't working, so i guess it has to be one of the boards.
@andré: anything else i could check?
IF NOT
@michael: any chance i could get your BSC board for testing?
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ok, did some more testing today and found two additional bad flat cables - making it a total of FOUR :o now i don't have any spare obes left!
unfortunately, the game still isn't working, so i guess it has to be one of the boards.
@andré: anything else i could check?
IF NOT
@michael: any chance i could get your BSC board for testing?
You could replace the RAMs on the BSC. I find it strange because I tested all the boards pretty extensively, but just like my speach board, this stuff can die over a couple of hours without warning....
Andreas has them on stock. I actually bought a number from him at the daddelparty but have since lost them ( :evil: :evil: :evil:)....
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are you talking about the four socketed ones? the one that you can find under the label "color ram" and the three to the right of it (in the B row)? if so, i could try swapping them with the ones from my defunct original BSC board.
talking about dying speech boards: mine was working perfectly in the beginning, but after a couple of games, the voices began to sound strange, as if there was some kind of "crackle" in them - hard to describe, but they didn't sound like they did in the beginning. i had thought about exchanging the voice board as well, but then i got this "the game is not working any more AT ALL" problem!
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Yes the socketed one's. Of course the one's on your original board can be either bad or good so it will be a lot of swapping to figure out.
Was the crackling just on the speech or on all sound ? Could be the volume pot.
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Was the crackling just on the speech or on all sound ? Could be the volume pot.
it was only the speech - the sounds were crystal!
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a quick update: one of the rams (the one labelled "color ram" on the original bsc board seems to be damaged (perhaps that's why it wasn't working), it looks exactly like an old battery damage at the feet of the ram: this greenish-turquoise stuff. the other three rams look ok. so i removed those three and tested them on the replacement bsc board in various combinations - three beeps again >:(
ok, here's where we stand: i've tested replacement boards (except the bsc board because this IS already the replacement board, i've tested and switched the flat cables. all i get is three beeps.
@andré: what would you do next?
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a quick update: one of the rams (the one labelled "color ram" on the original bsc board seems to be damaged (perhaps that's why it wasn't working), it looks exactly like an old battery damage at the feet of the ram: this greenish-turquoise stuff. the other three rams look ok. so i removed those three and tested them on the replacement bsc board in various combinations - three beeps again >:(
ok, here's where we stand: i've tested replacement boards (except the bsc board because this IS already the replacement board, i've tested and switched the flat cables. all i get is three beeps.
@andré: what would you do next?
Wait a minute is that battery damage on the BSC I sent you ?? The battery damage on the BSC board is always also caused by the battery on the ZPU board. Gravity slowly, but surely lets the stuff run down the ZPU board and then across the flatcables onto the BSC. I think the one I sent you was pretty clean ?
Your best bet now is Michael's spare BSC. Once you got that (and if it works) send me the other defective two BSC boards.
Neutralize the battery damage (the green-turqoise stuff) with some cleaning (white) vinegar ASAP to prevent any further damage to the BSC ! I think you've probably read how to do it in my threads...
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Wait a minute is that battery damage on the BSC I sent you ?? The battery damage on the BSC board is always also caused by the battery on the ZPU board. Gravity slowly, but surely lets the stuff run down the ZPU board and then across the flatcables onto the BSC. I think the one I sent you was pretty clean ?
it looks as if the battery damage is located to the color ram only. i'll try to take (and post) a picture of it later!
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Package will go out on Tuesday :)
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you're the man, michael! thx a lot :-*
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here are some close-up photos of the acid damage on the BSC board :arrow:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2726/4490120618_a91f784600_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2217/4490120810_c18da232b8_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4489477443_b46c7a17fb_b.jpg)
what is strange though is the fact that there's only (visible) damage on the sides of the board (both at the top and at the bottom) PLUS corrosion on the color ram chip in the middle.
here's a picture of the BSC board which i took directly after i brought the game home a couple of months ago. you can clearly see on the top left of the picture one of the damaged flat cables and the corrosion on it which obviously also damaged the BSC board itself!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/4489489543_73e4186a50_b.jpg)
just to clear things up: this damaged BSC board has already been replaced by a working one and i had the game up and running with it for two days - then i moved the game around to install a new power cord and all i get since then is three beeps. i didn't change ANYTHING inside. is it possible that something could be wrong with the replacement power cord itself?
michael is going to send me his BSC board on tuesday. he tested it this afternoon in his machine, here's what he told me about the test (hope you don't mind, michael):
when i tested the BSC it worked the first time, with no problems at all.
then i removed it again, and replaced it with my own and powered the machine up.... and nothing happened...!
i had to mengle a bit with the cabels (of course with the machine shut off) and tried a few times, and on the 3rd time it gave me the 8 famous beeps, and was running again! the conclution is that the cables/connectors are _VERY_ sensitive, or there was a dead spot somewhere.....
could it be there's something wrong with my connections? as i've said before, sometimes i get a jumbled up picture, sometimes i don't get a picture at all. the only thing i always get is the beeps - at least some consistency ;)
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The jumbled up picture is normal even when everything works 100%. What you see is random data in the video buffers which have not been cleared by the ZPU board yet.
Sure, connection problems can definitely happen, the flatcables are the most at risk but also check the pins of the connectors themselves (on the PCB) if they are not "eaten" as well.
As mentioned, I've got a set of those SCSI cables if you want them.
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The jumbled up picture is normal even when everything works 100%. What you see is random data in the video buffers which have not been cleared by the ZPU board yet.
and this "not having been cleared yet" is caused by either an error on the other boards or a bad connection?
As mentioned, I've got a set of those SCSI cables if you want them.
don't know, i've checked all the flat cables in use and they came up ok. could it nevertheless be a connection problem?
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HEY !!!
They stole Ully's robot !!!!!!
http://www.widgetbox.com/
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wow, that is insane :P! well spotted, andré.
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Package will go out on Tuesday :)
that was fast - the package has just arrived :)
i've anxiously opened it, unwrapped the BSC board, removed mine from the cabinet, installed yours, turned on the machine and ...
BEEP
... and ...
BEEP
... and ...
BEEP
... and ...
NOTHING :'(
F***!!!
@berzerk-master andré: what would be the next logical plan of attack?
-when i'm testing out the spare boards, do i test them one after the after and leave the swapped boards IN the machine or do i swap an old board with a spare one, turn the machine on, replace the spare board again with an old board and move on to the next board?
- could the flat cables still cause a connection problem although they passed the ohm test?
- could something be wrong with the replacement power cord?
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damn! that was quick! :o
But sorry to hear they did´nt work :( - have you tried mengeling ith the flat cables?? the way i got it working was that i pressed it all the way into the socket, and then pulled it about 1mm back again, so the metal against metal connected a new place inside the socket....
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i have tried the flat cables in various positions - nothing :(
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Excellent post detailing the sand/paint work. I'm picking up a Frenzy this weekend that I may repaint as a Berzerk so that was very useful.
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Did we mention it's fully working again as well ? ;)
Just a bad RAM chip :D
Indeed, a job well done by Ully, I've seen it in person now, and it is an amazing job !
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Fantastic post!!
Lots of thrills and spills
Well done!!
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thx guys, i'm happy with the results myself, although you DO see the paint job in bright daylight, but who cares? way better than it was before. thx again, andré, for hooking us up with the berzerks, for organizing the pcb set and for fixing our games - we still owe you :-*
all we need now are those replacement control panels!
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Yeah.....that's taking pretty long......but we all know Chris is keeping us up to date and chasing.....
I also need to restore the coin-door still and I think I will give the lower front area a "mild" paint-job. Just cleaning and rolling a bit, to keep the structure. The other thing to do is to restore the bezel which I screwed up....... :roll:
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The other thing to do is to restore the bezel which I screwed up....... :roll:
where are you going to have this printed now that nigel "monkeyonline" seems to have disappeared from the face of the earth. i found a german guy who can do stuff like that and who i'll be trying out soon!
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Not sure if I will simply touch up the original (likely). It's mainly only the black sections so even I should be able to touch that up without being too obvious.
Let me know if your guy is any good though, I think I can get the file from Luigi.
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just fired up my berzerk to play some rounds, but instead of the usual BEEPS all i got was silence :(
the only thing working are the lights on the coin door and behind the marquee - nothing else. not even a grey picture on the monitor :'(
power supply issue?
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Back door interlock.
Berzerk is one of the rare games that _do_ power up the marquee lighting but not the monitor and game electronics when the backdoor interlock is open.
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Back door interlock.
Berzerk is one of the rare games that _do_ power up the marquee lighting but not the monitor and game electronics when the backdoor interlock is open.
unfortunately not! when the back door is open, the marquee does light up, but not the coin door lights. powering up the game turns on the coin door lights as well, but nothing else. damn!!!
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Rats.
Well, it's time to get out the DVM and check the power supplies...measure on the ZPU pcb
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Well, it's time to get out the DVM and check the power supplies...measure on the ZPU pcb
took out the DVM for a quick round of measuring on the ZPU board - i used test point 1 through 4 (being +12V / +5V / -5V & GND). here are the results:
+12V :arrow: 11.88V check!
-5V :arrow: -4.99V check!
+5V :arrow: 0.44V ???
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Bingo....
Now, why ?....Fuse ? Bad connection ?
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Bingo....
Now, why ?....Fuse ? Bad connection ?
bingo - found the b***!
the F3 +5V power supply fuse on the PS-1000 pcb is blown! :evil:
the question (as always): slow-blow or fast-blow?
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beep - beep - beep - beep - beep - beep - beep - beep ;D
i found an IDENTICAL fuse with IDENTICAL writing and IDENTICAL innards in my supply of fuses (still don't know whether slow- or fast-blow), put it in and heard the famous beeps!
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
as if i hadn't said enough THANK YOUs to andré this year, here's another one. THANK YOU!!!
note to myself: before crying like a baby, next time check the fuses first ;)
@andré: unfortunately, the discoloration on the right side of the monitor still hasn't gone - guess i need one of those degaussing tools. where can i buy one and how much does it cost?
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i'm planning to make 1 my self from a old coil form a monitor.
http://www.ehow.com/how_5240848_make-degaussing-coil.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_5240848_make-degaussing-coil.html)
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I got one of these:
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/degausser.jpg)
not green though, but its the same coil.
Works very well.
don't have a price for you since i got it "creative" when i switched jobs :oops:
but i dont think they are very expensive...
great tool by the way to magnetize your screwdrivers too ! ;D
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what's the use of that tooL??
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You can degauss a monitor with that
see this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xboO2JUvtBM&playnext=1&list=PLB2F63700B630AEC0&index=2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xboO2JUvtBM&playnext=1&list=PLB2F63700B630AEC0&index=2)
by the way , here to buy them around 12€
http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545)
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okay, i understand, great youtube channel btw.
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Yes sir, i downloaded them all, and they are on my FTP too (fro the members here that have a account ;))
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by the way , here to buy them around 12€
http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545)
any idea what those tools are called in german? i can't find them on ebay.de
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Google translate, translates "Degauss" from english to german "Entmagnetisierung"
Many time i see they call them "degauss wand" in english..
http://www.arcadedirect.com.au/product/515/DEGAUSSING_WAND (http://www.arcadedirect.com.au/product/515/DEGAUSSING_WAND)
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That video is _exactly_ how to do it right !
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as if i hadn't said enough THANK YOUs to andré this year, here's another one. THANK YOU!!!
You're still welcome to do some stenciling in return.....:)
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You're still welcome to do some stenciling in return.....:)
wait for the jungle king results, perhaps you'll change your mind after that ;)
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any idea what those tools are called in german? i can't find them on ebay.de
Ich glaub die heissen "Entmagnetisierungsspule" ;)
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Ich glaub die heissen "Entmagnetisierungsspule" ;)
gibt's keine bei ebay :(
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545)
+- 12 $ and 1 € shipping to germany....
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Yes, I was about to say that it wouldn't get much cheaper than that...
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545)
+- 12 $ and 1 € shipping to germany....
wow, ok, sorry, didn't check the shipping costs. is there a difference between the round one and the one pictured functionwise or doesn't it matter at all?
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Uuuuuuuhhhhmmmmm, it's SO tempting to insert a funny remark here.....
OK: you can only feel the difference yourself...... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Uuuuuuuhhhhmmmmm, it's SO tempting to insert a funny remark here.....
OK: you can only feel the difference yourself...... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
LOL :lol: ;D :lol:
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OK: you can only feel the difference yourself...... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
:shock: have you tried it? ;)
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just ordered the rectangular version ;D
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Ooooooh, you go for the "experienced" level right away, ey Ully ?!?!?
;D ;D
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thisone ?
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/degausser.jpg)
i got this, and works perfect, also for magnetising your screwdrivers..
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thisone ?
yes, exactly this one! and because you had a great day in the snow, i've sent you some extra work to get you warmed up again. check your emails ;) 8)
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I used that one when I worked for a Taiwanese computer monitor company VERY long ago. I liked it, pretty decend quality (better than the round one than I have now, but hey, how many times do I need to use it anyway....)
It's a coil. Nothing more :)
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yes, exactly this one! and because you had a great day in the snow, i've sent you some extra work to get you warmed up again. check your emails ;) 8)
Thanx.... ;)
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after my berzerk restoration the monitor had developed some kind of discoloring on the right hand side of the screen :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5343528508_d9fe7b16aa_b_d.jpg)
in order to tackle that problem, i ordered (with the help from you guys) "something" from hong kong which arrived shortly afterwards
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5343528640_1636538172_b_d.jpg)
let's check the customs declaration form to find out what could be inside
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5342920259_c87bf0ee16_b_d.jpg)
and here it is, the new addition to my tool collection: a tv degaussing coil. as you can see, it has a strange plug attached!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/5343529058_b62d267fe4_b_d.jpg)
the company added an adapter for the plug to the package, but i still don't know how this is supposed fit into german wall sockets ???
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5343529692_bfceb41ac6_b_d.jpg)
let's check the instructions :shock: :shock: :shock: ;)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5088/5342920441_22e75eedf3_b_d.jpg)
fortunately, i had a fitting adapter at home, BUT once i plugged in the degausser with the adapter attached, the coil developed a serious heat problem. it got hotter and hotter up to a point where the plastic started to melt and where it was almost impossible to hold on to the coil! :o
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5342920557_7aa07ca39a_b_d.jpg)
the item description stated that the coil is set for 230 volts, but it looks as if a 110v tool is being fed with way too much power - or am i doing something wrong here? i've already contacted the company and they said i could have a replacement coil or a different item for the same price for free! let's see ...
anyway, regarding that screen discoloration problem, here are the results after using the "wand from hell" :twisted: :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5342919851_c2093e5593_b_d.jpg)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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That is a US plug... wich generally means 110V.... that explanes the heat ;D
they get warm, but melting happens only if you feed double the voltage through the coil ::)
so feed the replacement coil with 110 next time (unless youre sure its a 220 Volts device)
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That is a US plug... wich generally means 110V.... that explanes the heat ;D
so feed the replacement coil with 110 next time (unless youre sure its a 220 Volts device)
the description (http://cgi.ebay.com/Handy-TV-CRT-Picture-Tube-Coil-Repair-Screen-Degausser-/150538876229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230cd0f545) of the item clearly states 220V, but i doubt that a simple adapter would solve the transfer from 110 to 220V.
i thought you had the same version, etienne?
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Well that looks like it was worth the money :)
Yes I had the same, US plug and there's no way to tell if it's 110VAC or 230VAC. To be sure/safe I always use a small 230V to 120V transformer. Also saves using the included plug. Which is useless in Europe of course.
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Save that adapter ! It might be handy when you go over to India or Pakistan:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BS_546
My adapter sucked because it wouldn't stay in the wall-outlet, but at least it was the right model for Europe. Maybe you should let them know we don't use that kind of plug around here ! :)
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Maybe you should let them know we don't use that kind of plug around here ! :)
i already told them. as i've said, i can get a free item (around the same price as the coil) from their stock (http://shop.ebay.com/uxcell/m.html), but i have no idea what to look for. perhaps i'll simply order another coil ...
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That might be the best idea, and use the new one on 120V only.
The one you have now may have (almost) melted isolation between the wires because of the heat and when you get a short you'll probably blow a fuse in your home electrical installation (or you'll have to reset the automatic circuit breaker).
How long have you used it by the way ? In general you should only keep it switched on (that is: button pressed) for like less than 60 seconds while you do the degaussing.
That's something you'll have to take into account using these Chinese tools. They probably wouldn't pass any European (or US) safety standards so NEVER use them unattended. It's the same with my UV EPROM eraser.
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How long have you used it by the way ? In general you should only keep it switched on (that is: button pressed) for like less than 60 seconds while you do the degaussing.
60 seconds MAX!!!
i'll order a second one then and probably throw the old one away!
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i thought you had the same version, etienne?
Well almost the same:
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/degauss220v.JPG)
Mine has a europlug, is grey and clearly states 220 volts ;D
but it did the trick i can see in your posting, thats the most important :D
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This is a strong magnet...
don't forget the end of the video, those are big mthrfckrs :shock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1xS-ssfTM8&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1xS-ssfTM8&feature=related)
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after a long (and winding) restoration, my berzerk cabinet is finally finished: i installed both the new coin door sticker and the repro control panel from chris moore today - i'm one happy camper! oh, and i also placed the original boardgame on top of the cabinet!
because pictures speak more than a thousand words, here we go :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5408065970_b42e30bc75_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5408066194_3ca1f5c2d9_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/5407456029_551ce1ec66_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5408065610_3aaff4c12d_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5407455875_03800fd488_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5408067180_981c9d7e4b_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5407456627_6dc480b120_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5408066872_dbe67c6824_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/5407456807_6696247090_b_d.jpg)
THIS RESTORATION IS OFFICIALLY DONE!!!
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Looks like new, I would love to play a few rounds on it one day. ;)
Congrats for the usual nice job! ;D
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Great job Ully :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
Congratulations!!!
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Looking stunning like we are used from you ! :spaceace:
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Heh, I don't regret that you got it :P
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Heh, I don't regret that you got it :P
i don't either ;)! i still owe you a q*bert in return ...
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Mmm, those Stern inserts look pretty cool combined with the new decal (blue in there too)....
I think I changed my mind ;)
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Mmm, those Stern inserts look pretty cool combined with the new decal (blue in there too).... I think I changed my mind ;)
see :P! that's why i opted to go with this version, the design fits much better!
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Simply wow. Another classic restored to glory.
You must have a nice row of restored cabs now. Isn't it picture time yet?
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You must have a nice row of restored cabs now. Isn't it picture time yet?
almost! just the other day i installed some blacklights and moved three more games into the living room (a total of 11 in there right now). i slept extremely bad that night because i was afraid the weight of the cabs would be too much (although i had a structural desginer here telling me i can put at least 16 in there - but i don't want to push my luck). i might end up with 13 (moon patrol is definitely going to go in there as well) and be done with it then - until i move into something bigger, hopefully in summer). right now, i'm working on seperating the gameroom from the rest of the living-room to give it a little bit of closure. i should (hopefully) be done pretty soon and THEN i'm going to post some pics!
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impressive work as usual Ully :)
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i should (hopefully) be done pretty soon and THEN i'm going to post some pics!
we can't wait ....
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Yeah, quickly make pics of a big fat row before it drops through the floor and lands on your lower neighbors ;) ;) ;)