Author Topic: Baby Pacman Restoration  (Read 12824 times)

Purity

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Baby Pacman Restoration
« on: September 03, 2014, 02:43:16 PM »
I've been working on a Baby Pacman restoration for a while, but thought I'd show some recent pictures. The cabinet had a bit of damage all round the bottom of the machine, so filled and sanded that area.

I then sanded the sides off , and tidied up the back.

This is some before/after pics.

The back:



Sanded down and filled:



Formica applied to all sides:



I've also done a lot of work on the internals and CP etc. More pictures can be found at:

http://www.arcadecollectors.co.uk

Superully

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2014, 03:11:02 PM »
looking really good! how thick is that formica? will the additional width show once the t-molding is installed?
all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2014, 03:17:47 PM »
looking really good! how thick is that formica? will the additional width show once the t-molding is installed?

0.7mm.  No it won't show

Someone used 0.7mm on KLOV, and it looks fine:

« Last Edit: September 03, 2014, 03:23:00 PM by Purity »

ckong

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2014, 04:33:24 PM »
That is very nice, especiially the formica. I have a large roll of black formica that I am planning to use on several Atari cabs, but I hesitate to start with that job because I don't know what thé technique to use is. Could you perhaps tell and show us some more of the way you did the formica. Especially how you measured it (frontpanel), how you cut it and how you glued it. Would be great and could give me that little push to start doing my games.


Superully

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2014, 04:34:58 PM »
formica comes in ROLLS? that's quite impressive, how much does stuff like that cost?

as for erik's questions: i'd be interested to know those answers as well ...
all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!

ckong

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2014, 04:52:16 PM »
formica comes in ROLLS? that's quite impressive, how much does stuff like that cost?

as for erik's questions: i'd be interested to know those answers as well ...

I bought a role of 3 meter or so black formica, 90 cm wide, for I believe € 45. At a store for building materials: http://www.oldenboom.nl/producten/Interieur-&-Design/162/Formica.html

Purity

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2014, 05:34:47 PM »
Sure guys, no problem.  I wrote a thread on UKVac about how I did it all, and will repost on here later.

I must stress I have never used Formica before, and wasn't sure how it was going to end up but I'm pretty pleased with the outcome, considering I did it on my own.

The front panels were very tricky and it did take me a while to figure out the best method to apply it


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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2014, 07:01:39 PM »
I thought I would add the story to maybe help someone who may attempt this in the future.  I've never used Formica or a router before but I'd say one side was fairly straight forward.  The centre pieces are going to be the tricky bit.

Day 1 - Monday

I emptied most of the cab again:



Cleared a big space in the garage:



Lightly sanded down the side of the cab with some fine sandpaper just to get rid of any bumps, and brush any dust off:



Formica time!



Unwraped the Formica, and let it flop level:



Then placed the cab on its side and drew round the cab adding an additional 1/2 inch all round:



Then cut it out with a stanley knife and got a basic template.  Then brushed down the Formica to remove any dust:



Day 2 - Tuesday

Stuck some glue on both cab and Formica.  I used Thixofix Eco which is really good stuff, and non hazardous.  I used a foam roller to get a nice even spread.  A good idea is to use a new foam roller on both cab and Formica:



Then cut some plastic strips, approx 1/2-1 inch and placed them on the cab so that the two parts do not touch:



Waited until the glue went clear, and then placed the Formica on the plastic strips.  Moved into position and then pushed the Formica to the cab using a small wallpaper roller, and went along and removed each strip until the Formica was bonded to the cab:



I then got the router out with the flush trim bit, and cut off the excess Formica.  The trick seems to be to let it glide round the cab without applying any pressure.  But boy is it messy!

1 side done:



Day 3 - Wednesday

Made a couple of minor errors with the second side.  The t-moulding edge had some uneven bits, and because the router follows that line, those uneven edges show up on the Formica.  Unless you really look hard it's not noticeable, but generally happy with the second side:



The centre pieces were an absolute pain, as I knew they were going to be.  The top piece took 3 attempts and the bottom piece took 2 attempts.  The problem was getting nice clean lines and accuracy with a stanley knife.  So on the final attempt I tried a different tact and it worked out ok.



I marked out the correct sizes for both pieces and added 1/2 inch, and cut the 1/2 inch shape out.

Then I clamped the Formica to the edge of a table, aligning the correct lines on the Formica to the edge of the table, and then used the router to cut nice clean, accurate lines.  It was also handy just to shave a tiny little bit off the end to get it to fit right.  

Overall very happy with the middle bits.  Just need to glue them tomorrow if all goes well.  I'm going to overlap them slightly (as above) so it looks fairly neat.  I've seen someone use Formica on a Baby Pacman before and a gap was left which looked a bit wrong.

Then just got to cut out the coin door, grills, buttons and locks.  I can use the router for most of it, but not for the grills.  I'm going to have to do this semi-by hand, so I hope I don't mess it up :-)  They are hidden by the grills so it's not the end of the world if I do

Day 4 - Thursday

Damn that was hard work!



Routing Formica makes an incredibly mess!  I've spent hours tidying up!

I tried the straight edge for the front but just couldn't get it quite right, so I cut larger sides then used the router to trim bits off until it was spot on.

It was going to be pretty difficult using the plastic strips on the front so I improvised and cut out a template using some clear plastic so I could get the holes spot on, but mainly because I could use it as a barrier between both glued front pieces.  Once the pieces were in place, I could press down on the Formica and slide the plastic out.  It worked well :-)



I also marked out the coin door minus 1/2 inch so I could take a good chunk of that out beforehand.

Once fitted, I routed the rest of the coin door hole.

The difficult bit was the oval shapes at the top.  Formica is difficult to cut so I wasn't even going to attempt to cut out a shape like that.  So I cut out squares.  I could route some of the speaker grill holes, but the base of the router is quite big so restricted movement.  It looks ok, but more like a foot shape on each side than a oval :-) It's hidden by the grills anyway so no issue.

Cutting the holes was nerve racking and I did this prior to fitting.  So I used my template above by placing it over the Formica to mark the holes, then used tile/glass drill bits at a slow speed to make the holes.

I used a small glass drill bit on the buttons to make a pilot hole, then a paddle bit to make a larger hole big enough for the router and routed out the rest.  The only problem was the main leaf buttons as they had a small edge, so the router could only cut a smaller hole.  I've left that for the moment but need to revisit when I figure out how I can increase the size of the hole.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2014, 07:10:01 PM by Purity »

Wurstkopp

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2014, 08:41:25 PM »
Looks ace!!!


Robotron, Smash TV, Final Fight, Donkey Kong, Red Tent, Indiana Jones, Galaga 88, Roadblasters SD, Centipede cabaret, Asteroids cabaret, Phoenix cabaret, MVS-U4

Purity

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2014, 11:45:33 PM »
Looks ace!!!

Thanks dude.  It took a lot of effort.

If you have any questions about this I'll try and answer them as best as possible

ckong

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2014, 12:25:05 AM »
Thanks for the 'instruction'  :) It looks like a job that I can do also.

A few questions:
- what do you mean with 'the glue went clear'?
- did you glue the formica ánd the cab panels? Is that necessary?
- how long before the formica stuck enough to the sides (dry time)
- Any reson why you didn't use glue in a spray can?

Excellent job.

Purity

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #11 on: September 04, 2014, 10:41:51 AM »
Thanks for the 'instruction'  :) It looks like a job that I can do also.

A few questions:
- what do you mean with 'the glue went clear'?
- did you glue the formica ánd the cab panels? Is that necessary?
- how long before the formica stuck enough to the sides (dry time)
- Any reson why you didn't use glue in a spray can?

Excellent job.


Sure no problem.

- what do you mean with 'the glue went clear'?

The glue I was using has an indicator of when it is ready.  When you first roll it on it is white.  When it disappears (changes from white to clear) the glue is ready to use.  Usually this is 15mins to an hour

- did you glue the formica ánd the cab panels? Is that necessary?

Yes you must glue both cab and Formica.  The glue is essentially contact adhesive, so when the two parts touch that's it.  It is stuck.  If you only put glue on the cab, and it goes clear.  You can lay anything on it and it will not stick.  It is only when it comes into contact with other adhesive will it stick

- how long before the formica stuck enough to the sides (dry time)

It is bonded pretty much as soon as soon as the two parts come in contact with each other.  But I think overall curring time is 4 hours

- Any reson why you didn't use glue in a spray can?

Yes because spraying makes and mess and is hard to control.  Painting the glue on with a roller means you get a nice even spread, and you are less likely to get glue on parts of the cab you don't want it on

Hope this helps?

Superully

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #12 on: September 04, 2014, 10:53:30 AM »
thx for the explanations, i might try that myself, although i'm afraid of the mess!
all i need is ... PONG - and a select few others: TOUCH ME, DRAGON'S LAIR, JOUST, ROBOTRON, MR DO, SAN FRANCISCO RUSH THE ROCK!!!

Purity

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #13 on: September 04, 2014, 11:45:01 AM »
thx for the explanations, i might try that myself, although i'm afraid of the mess!

I've seen some of your work.  If I can do it, you can!

The only real mess is when you do the routing, but I didn't have a vacum connected to my router, so that's why it went everywhere.

If you use a decent router with a vacum, I can't see there being much mess at all

Purity

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Re: Baby Pacman Restoration
« Reply #14 on: September 04, 2014, 11:55:45 AM »
formica comes in ROLLS? that's quite impressive, how much does stuff like that cost?

as for erik's questions: i'd be interested to know those answers as well ...

Very cheap suprisingly

The glue was £6 per unit ex VAT.  That was for 250ml tins.  I think I used 1 and a half tins for the Baby Pacman.  

The Formica was £28 per sheet ex VAT.  The sheet was sized at 3050 x 1300mm.   I had to buy two to cover both sides of the Baby Pac.  I had loads left, so plenty of chances to get the front right :-)