:: GaLaGa - Diary of a Renovation :: The End

[DarthNuno]

Ok, back on the first side. If you remember I've used bright black, wich is NOT the right color  The right one is black satin, like I used the the second side.
More than that, I'm not really happy with the way I've done the repair on the first side, so... let's correct that 

THis is the first side :





Once again, I lay down that cab without forget to protect the second side with a blanket in order to protect it 





...and like I did on the other side, I'll paint like this :





...and this time : black satin  



I'm also painting some small areas 



...fresh paint...



Nearly dry...



100x better then previously isn't it ? 

[DarthNuno]

The work on the sides is not finished 



That side has still a lot of scratches on it ... 



... and a missing part on the back. I'm fixing this last one like I did on the base 



Regarding the small scratches, I cover them with black satin paint like this :



I'm doing the same job for all the edges too 

Before :



After :



Let's wait... fresh paint :

[DarthNuno]

Remember, I've removed rust for the two control panel supports previoulsy ?

Here there are after the 'bath' :



Let's sand them before the new paint :





First layer, as usual, with PRIMER paint :



..and the black...



Two layers in total will be enough... Remember, these supports won't be visible... so it's fine like that   

[DarthNuno]

Ok, most of the 'paint reparation' are done, let's start the next step : T-molding Lay down the beast 



I've painted the edges in black, in order to hide the 'non-painted' wood.



I'm using this custom mallet, done with an hammer + cloth 



Yes, NEVER use an hammer directly, or you'll destroy your brand new T-molding 

I'll use this one : 3/4 " BLACK LEATHER STYLE FINISH   



So, here's the tools of the day :



Ops, I forget to talk about this Cold Glue Gun 



...the best way to fix T-molding on a trench too large for your T-molding, or just to solidify some delicate area, by exemple corner of the cabinet.

OK, here's all the tools of the day   



This area really need hot glue to fix the T-molding :



It's better to do the job with someone else, like this 



Be sure to finish like this... a lot of glue... Nobody will see it... it's under the cab 



Done :









 

[DarthNuno]

Ok, let's thing about the game itself...

The best way to reproduce a complete & accurate Galaga experience without a working Galaga board is to use AdvanceMame pure DOS and a true RGB 15Khz signal.

Ok, here 's my configuration :

- AdvanceMame for DOS
- 1 ghz processor
- Soundblaster pci128
- Gforce II Graphic card

First, I prepare that computer, and test the result on my 'benchmark' setup, with a Commodore 1084S monitor, able to display a 15 Khz CGA signal (more information about how to use your Commodre monitor right here) :



100% arcade perfect  See the natural scanline from that monitor  



Of course, I won't use that monitor in that cab' LOL

So let's prepare the custom made cable : "VGA to SCART". Here's the tools of the day :





Here's how I build this custom cable :



I already done this cable more than 12 times, and it works all the time 
The only operation it won't do automatically is the automatic swith to 'external' mode. So I have to do it manually with a remote control each time I power on the TV. Not a problem for me 

So, if you follow my diagram, you can see the pin 5 from the SCART going to pin 8 from the VGA :



An other view :



Do the same operation for all the pin in that diagram and this is it 

Ok, so the cable is ready now :



Now I'll test it on a TV. It's not the one I'll put inside the cab'... but just for testing 



GREAT !!! 100% arcade accurate 



Of course, I've to correct brightness, contrast, geometry, etc...



I'll do these correction on the TV I'll put inside the cab' 

[scr33n]

Darth excellet work as usual .... 

i've read something about rgb autoswitch metod  .. read:

http://www.idiots.org.uk/vga_rgb_scart/

but i've never try this, you know something about that?

This is my fast solution:



from top to the bottom:

1. PC power on
2. PC Reset
3. Tv Power off
4. Switch from Av - Rgb Etc
5. Tv Power on

it works ... 

[DarthNuno]

Nice work Scr33n  ...and nice link too 

ok, here the frame/screen when I got the game 



I still have a stock of brand new TV. This model is the best one ! Thrust me  I already use it previously, and he has everything : Perfect size, it fits all the existing 19" arcade monitor frames, it has full setting accessible via a hidden technician code (I know it of course). My best choice  Price : 109€ ...BRAND NEW 





This new TV has never been switch on, and I have it in my attic boxed since few months... so ... no risk to manipulate it. But if you're not sure about what you're doing, please discharge it first !!!



This model is great inside too : when I'll remove the tube from the original TV plastic frame, the degauss wires will stay in location around the tube... so no more flying springs 



I'm building a custom wood support for the electronics :



I use existing holes to fix it on the wood :



And this is it :

[DarthNuno]

Ok, now let's clean the original 'under glass bezel' part :



soap, water, and it's clean 



The original plexiglass is dead. So I order a new one.

Got it but... oversized  I'll have to cut it. 

Ok, so I'll use the orginal for drawing the exact size :



Here's the tools of the day :



A simple saw for metal. Closer 



The secret is to cut very slowly  Have a look at this video 



I don't have to cut perfeclty because the borders of the plexiglas will be hidden under the glass bezel  But I think it's not too bad :



...and it fits perfectly   

[DarthNuno]

Let's fix the speaker cover now :



Rust 



Let's remove that... 



24 hours later, no more rust but I've to remove the rest of the paint, like this :



Naked 



Primer first... always 



Black is black... beware : fresh paint 



Same problem for the Carriage Bolts : Rust   



I'm using sand paper (600) 



Primer :



Like new  :



On location     

[level42]

Bruno,

Great work as always !!!


You really should be getting the monitor to switch to external directly. It distracts to much to use a remote ! (Plus, remote's are always where you are not looking for them )

It's so easy: Use the schemtic you always posted. Take a +5v from your pc, put a 150 Ohms resistor in series and solder that to pin 16.

Then solder a +12V lead to pin 8, and you're all set !!!

Man you really should try to get the PCB running my friend. Emulation is not 100% the same thing.....

I could have a look at the PCB if you like !

[JimmyU]

Cheating on Dr. Pepper Nuno?  How dare you!!

[DarthNuno]

Yeps André, even if I put the remote control inside the cab, sometime I can't find it  I think I'll test the solution of the automatic switching 'External' + RGB 

The idea behind the use of a computer is to have something reliable and accurate, without the failures of old hardware. Following my experience, I can tell you it's a real pain to maintain more than 25 games, for most of them 20 years old, with the original pcb  . The use of advance mame with a true RGB output signal, with perfect speed of emulation, the right settings give a perfect result, 100% arcade accurate. No one will be able to see the difference. Of course, when you know it, there is a part of "the magic of the original hardware' who disappear, but it's the price to pay with a park of many arcade games like me  Of course, each time it's possible, I put the original hardware in priority. I'll give you more information on my Galaga pcb, thanks for help on that 

Opps JimmyU, you got me... maybe too much sugar inside the Dr Pepper    In UK there is Dr Pepper Light and Dr Pepper Zero. Who can help me to order them   

[DarthNuno]

OK, now let's fix that 'secondary bezel' 

Very easy : I'm doing it like this  One small metallic on the left :



An other one on the right :



Both of them :



I fix the plastic bezel like this :



Now, the 'LIVE' test, with the brand new Plexiglas 



Woow  It's wonderful... have a look at the picture. The black is so deep... MMhhhh 

And now, the big piece of art : the NOS galaga bezel  After a little cleaning, it is perfect  Check out the colors of it 

[DarthNuno]

Let's check the control panel :



It is in a very good condition... it just need to be cleaned :





The overlay has some little cracks on the edge, but it's very minor :



Mhhh, rust on all the skrews  :



On the back, all the contact are there, but the original jostick is dead (hardware missing) 



Ok, back on the overlay... see the parts to clean :



With this special sponge, and a little bit of water on it 



Done ! It's like new now 

[scr33n]

After 27 years ............

a beautiful control panel 


great work !!!