[Restoration] Defender In Da House

[flip971]

Superully: check the voltage of the power supply first!!

On the manual of my Xevious cab I find this: the main fuse can be 250v 7a or 250v 4a (depending from the revision); did You check the manual  of Your Defender ?
Or if You didn't have, check this link: http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/manualsdefender.html

[Superully]

I'd put a switcher kit in it

why?

[Superully]

Superully: check the voltage of the power supply first!!

the guy i got it from told me it had been running on 220/230 volts

[Alpha1]

I'd put a switcher kit in it

why?

Because if you continue to run it on 4116 ram and the power supply dies, it will take all that ram out with it on the main Defender pcb. You cna also keep your existing power supply and neatly connect a switcher to the power harness, which would not damage the wiring of the machine.

[Superully]

if i only knew how to do that 

[level42]

Never mind...

[Etienne MacGyver]

i think i vould go for a 250 3A...
how "dense" is the string inside the fuse? (the size of it?)

nothing inside - gone for good when it blew  

i have two suggestions now:

3 AMP and 1.5 AMP - hmmm  

anyone else?

well when i was reading your pleiads restauration again, i found the answer you where looking for in your own post    (fourth action)



I guess that i made a good calculation in my earlier post  

[Superully]

the restoration continues ...

it's been a while, but this doesn't mean i have been lazy 

remember how the coin door looked?



the coin slot inserts are either scratched / dirty or damaged beyond repair. see for yourself!



the plastic inserts get the usual scrubbing treatment and i was fortunate enough to fetch a replacement williams logo insert as well



and of course the coin door itself receives the "special superully treatment" - including a keyring 





from inside the cab - the power block. nothing new here: dirty!



obviously the blue elko in the middle isn't working anymore, because some rewiring has been done: new wires leading away from underneath to a replacement elko



so i remove the old elko, put the replacement on top and clean up the entire power block 



and then there's the control panel: remember, the overlay had been cropped on the left and on the right because of cigarette burns, that's why it needs to be replaced. i manage to remove the old overlay in almost one piece. anyone interested? 



however, parts of the wood underneath are also removed along with the overlay 



this is how the panel looks with the overlay removed 



see where the chunks of wood are missing?



after a lot of wood filler and sanding, the panel is ready for the next step ...



to be continued ...

[Etienne MacGyver]

Looking again at the powerblock, i see the outlet wich is in my opinion a "US style" connector...

wich in that turn points to 110V..

you say that the old owner was running it on 220V, is there something that makes a setting for 220 or 110 like the jumpercable on your pleiads ?

is there some mentioning somewhere that thisone can operate on 220V ?

if not , i would suggest you use the original fuse and a stepdown converter so the machine is feed with 110 just to be sure

the case of 220v into a 110v machine could explane the blown fuse, but what else did the 220v take out with it....

just trying to help ully

[atarikid]

Defender always 'scared' me to play with. Too many buttons. It wasn't a easy game to master.

Nonetheless I great classic.

[Superully]

just trying to help ully

and your help is more than appreciated, etienne.

let me give you some more input: when i saw the game for the first time in berlin the seller turned it on, but the game wouldn't come up. all we got was a blue screen. so the monitor was working, the fuse didn't blow, but we couldn't play. i then asked him if he could fix it, so he took the boards / the powerblock home with him and tried to find the error - without success (he's very good at repairing boards btw). when i came back to pick up the game, he told me that while working on finding the error, the fuse blew. but this had nothing to do with 110 / 220 v - the game had been running on 220 v over the last couple of years without any problems.

at home i took out all the boards, brought them to an arcade friend and swapped boards one by one until we had eliminated the faulty one. this was replaced by a working board (luckily, he has around 12 defender boardsets at his place) and then all the boards were working perfectly in my friend's machine, that's why it normally should also work in my machine, because the faulty board has been replaced. it least that's what i''m hoping for ...  i'll find that out soon!

[Etienne MacGyver]

Oke, so the 220v and 110v doubt is not an issue here as it has been running on 220v

i was just worried because there is no mention of a 110-220 switch , and i think you know what happens when you apply 220v into an 110v device ..... KABOOOOOOOMM   end of story  

the transformer itself could survive this , but the electronics behind the transformer will not like it  

hate to see that happen to your defender  

anyway, like mentiond before , use a 250v - 1,5 Amp fuse and you will be fine

if your interested, a nice explanation about transformers can be found here and here
The second one is unfortunatly in dutch, but the images speak for themself.

[Superully]

the restoration continues ...

... with the backdoor. as you can see, it's in a rough, scratched condition



details



and - as always - the usual "wood wear"



what worries me most is a huge crack (about 30 cm) in the upper half of the backdoor. obviously someone tried to kick his way into the cabinet .

first i have to remove the parts of the wood which stand out



then, a loooooot of wood filler to close the gap



sanded down



and ready for the paint job



looking much better



the paint takes FOREVER to dry, but finally the backdoor is ready for the final touch: backdoor sheets



the back of the cabinet doesn't look to good either



that's why it also gets its own fresh coat of paint (and new leg levelers) 



as i've said before, i won't be repainting the entire cabinet, just parts of it. for that i have to mask off certain areas, e.g. the front panel



the heavy damages to the sides have been fixed





the artwork is being masked off







no brush, roller or spray can this time - touch up time!



yeah, baby, yeah



but then i make a mistake: i disregard arcade rule #104: NEVER LEAVE A FRESHLY-PAINTED ARCADE CABINET UNATTENDED

my cat gnocchi realizes my oversight ...



... and plans his attack! 



VICTORY!!!



to be continued ...

[petieken]

Looking good Ully! 

Cats are the most curious creatures around. Everytime something new enters the house, they are the first to inspect it thoroughly

[Etienne MacGyver]

I like your "new" Avatar  

now i can imagine the rest of the floor  



and you are right Petieken...