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Author Topic: :: Belgium Roadtrip :: Quest for SEGA G-Loc Deluxe ::  (Read 22232 times)
sega-sim-fan
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« Reply #30 on: July 06, 2010, 09:16:45 PM »

all this simulator stuff is frightening!, your missing 2 motor controllers and possibly 1 motor drive board, very hard to find....good luck with this......i suposse some one technicaly minded could get this working without motor drive boards.....but until somebody does we are all shafted  Embarrassed
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #31 on: July 13, 2010, 11:06:55 PM »

Well, I'm waiting since more than two years a pair of *working* motor drive board from 'someone'...he promised me to send/bring them to me. Every few months (yes, since more than two years), I gently reminds him by mail/phone... but it never happened yet, in spite of its promises  Lips Sealed Now, he didn't even reply to my mails ... Lips Sealed
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Segafan
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« Reply #32 on: April 11, 2012, 09:40:26 PM »

So i know this is a dead topic but i am also working on restoring a SEGA G-LOC in America right now. I have managed to get the game working but the hydraulics and sound still aren't working yet. I think the audio amplifier is broken...any ideas on how i can test this? I cant find any specs on it either or i would just try getting a new one. The issue is that when i turn the game on i hear crackling in the speakers but no actual game sound...is it likely that speakers have just blown?
As for the hydraulics, i haven't tested them and the IR sensors have been unplugged so i don't expect them to work yet. I have seen them moving but only slightly and in an irregular way for a second on start-up...how can i test if the board is blown?
Thanks
Simon
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #33 on: April 11, 2012, 10:06:50 PM »

Hi Simon,

No update so far ( oppps ) BUT I managed to go back on this these last days...coincidence yeah!  Tongue
Yes, I know an other French member on the gamoover board who has the same problem than me, and we like to join forces to repair our games  Smiley
With you, we may be three to 'cross-test' and 'cross-investigate' what's wrong! Here's the 'Geek Vintage' topic right here (in french).

OK, the first I've done is to scan one of the main schema for the DX manual I own, here it is :


[click on the picture for the FULL size version]
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #34 on: April 11, 2012, 10:10:04 PM »

...first for you sound problem, here's a quick view for the cage pin-out, that will help you to test the sounds coming from the boards and try to localize where the problem is.
I'll scan the entire sheet this Friday (my A3 scanner is not setup now).


* gloc-preview.jpg (682.07 KB, 2592x1944 - viewed 162 times.)
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Segafan
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« Reply #35 on: April 13, 2012, 10:09:46 PM »

Oh wow! That helps so much! So now i should just test the pin-outs from the board to the amplifier and then test the pin-outs from the amplifier? That seems much easier! Let me know if i can help in any way...
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #36 on: April 13, 2012, 11:07:56 PM »

As promised, the full size version  Smiley  arrow


[click on the picture for the FULL size version]
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Segafan
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« Reply #37 on: April 15, 2012, 10:13:59 PM »

Thank you very much for the pictures!!! As for what i have maneaged to do so far. When i started working on this game nothing was working, not even a piture on the screen except for grey. I decided it was because the screen had power but no signal from the board. So i tried tracing the RGB cord back but i couldn't find anything wrong with it. What i found was that there was an auxiliary RGB cord that outputted to three plugs next to the power cable(i think this was so you could plug another screen in so other people could watch you play). So i took this chord and plugged it into the screen instead and it jumped to life and the game was working fine. It turns out that there had been a family of rats living in the machine and had started to snack on the wires! Now all i have to do is get the actuators working and pray that the amplifier and motor control board aren't broken! Wish me luck!
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Segafan
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« Reply #38 on: April 16, 2012, 09:35:33 AM »

Hi there DarthNuno,

hope your new driver boards work out. If that doesn't solve it, I think the board before that: the A/D D/A board is to blame. I analyzed the motor supplies to be driven by a simple four bit (four wire) control. 1 bit for the motor direction (thus supply polarity) and three bits for motor speed (supply voltage). You can simply test this with the actuators in the center position and making all four bits 'high' (+5 volt), for a very, very short time; the motors should run at maximum speed: so stop in time! Better of course to just measure the supply voltage with the motors disconnected. I do not know if the end switches are connected directly to the power supply or to the A/D/ D/A board... I guess they are not connected to the power supply as the motor test in the service screen can ignore them....



I am also having motor trouble...i am assuming the A/D D/A board is the one next to the motor driver boards with the Encoder plugged in on top. Just spent a long night toying with it and it bounces between saying "Encoder Trouble" for Left and right Motors or saying that they are both fine. My left Motor Driver Lights up but the Right one does not light up and has a painful short that makes my hand numb if i am stupid enough to touch its metal enclosure. Underneathe the encoder there are four dip switches. They were all set to the off position but i cant find any record of what they do. Also, directly next to them is a 4 pin plug that has nothing attached to them(suspicious...). Could you be more specific about the four control wires with one controlling polarity and the three others powering the motor?. I measured various voltages out of the three but if they power the motor then why is there are there two seperate power wires running to them from the motor driver? The motor Driver boards are getting the full AC power from the power supply and some of the 7 pins going in seem to be live with a low current from what i assume is the A/D D/A board...however neither of them will put out any measurable voltage to the motors. That is with the safety lasers connected and/or disconnected. I have tried every combination and all the motor tests say that the motor are good. I can make them move slowly if i take one of the 5v leads coming out of the amplifier and connect it directly to a motor so i know they are ok. Every conclusion i have come to say that it has to be either a safety cut-out issue or that both of the Motor driver boards are blown. I think it is more likely that there is an incorrect signal going from the board to the motor drivers. How can i "set" the three of the four leads going to the motors to 5v? Is that what the dip switches are for?

As for the Audio...I found the audio pin-outs from the main board in the cage at the rear and tried connecting them to one of the speakers directly, but no luck. I checked the power supply to the board that all the speakers connect to(its only label says "SJ25-0091-02") There is a tiny amount of current leaving the board and there is the full AC current going in from the transofrmer. The light comes on when i power it up. I think it must be a signal issue because the speakers are making an annoying humming sound for which i can adjust the volume from inside the coin box.

Another strange thing is that there are two plugs on the side right next to the power supply area(a large green ground wire, and a 2p red and black power connecter) that are not connected to anything. I cannot find anything that they should plug into.

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for the wiring diagrams. They were a great help and if there are any more pages that you could scan i would be very grateful.

Thanks Guys!
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Segafan
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« Reply #39 on: April 23, 2012, 03:11:47 AM »

Any suggestions? I would love to get in contact via email or something so we can collaborate on getting our games working...
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #40 on: April 24, 2012, 07:27:32 PM »

Nothing so far. The reason is I cannot easily access to my G-LOC, stuck between many cabinets in my game room, and that beast is really difficult to move.  oppps
In addition, I lack time for the hobby these last weeks (month?)   oppps I hope to progress on this as soon as I can, so stay tuned  Cool
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #41 on: May 01, 2012, 10:58:40 AM »

NOS parts for G-Loc are available right here, but unfortunately no electronic parts available so far.

Anyway, I've just got few parts, missing on mine (joystick related) :

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Segafan
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« Reply #42 on: May 31, 2012, 02:15:04 AM »

Just wanted to show you guys what i have found. www.irepairsega.com this guy lives in California and he worked for sega in the repairs department. He knows a LOT about the SEGA G-LOC and gave me some great tips for working on mine. Good Luck!
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #43 on: May 31, 2012, 10:20:51 PM »

Just wanted to show you guys what i have found. www.irepairsega.com this guy lives in California and he worked for sega in the repairs department. He knows a LOT about the SEGA G-LOC and gave me some great tips for working on mine. Good Luck!

Thanks for the info, I'll contact him asap!  Smiley
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tye3333
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« Reply #44 on: December 29, 2013, 07:39:42 AM »

hi guys,

i know this is a old post but i just got a G-loc DX and just seeing how everyone else is going with theirs?
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