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Author Topic: # UK VIDEO roadtrip # Hunt for an Atari BATTLEZONE !!!  (Read 13409 times)
DarthNuno
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Singe's castle


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« on: October 05, 2007, 01:22:35 PM »





Introduction

The initial idea was to do something special for my UK roadtrip number 10...  by exemple doing the roadtrip with a video camera  lol

So that's what we did... but after verification, this roadtrip is not the tenth one, but 'only' the ninth  oppps

...but who cares ?... I've got all the stuff needed to present you this first ever
VIDEO ROADTRIP  Shocked ... so let's rock baby  Cool

For this new roadtrip... the target is *amazing*  arrow

B A T T L E Z O N E from Atari (1980)


But better than words, watch the high-res video available here :

(right click on the picture, than save the video on your hard drive before watching [size=130MB, divx codec])



Enjoy~ 
« Last Edit: March 27, 2008, 06:18:28 PM by DarthNuno » Logged

arcadefever
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« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2007, 02:14:16 PM »

Smiley  very nice !!!!

if you need help on the vector monitor, do not be shy ...
take a picture of the deflection board, so i can see what monitor it is

G05-802 OR 19V2000

you always can send me the parts and and can help to repair and run it in my asteroids or battlezone

Fred
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Level42
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« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2007, 06:56:30 PM »

Whatever you do, DON'T mame it !!!
Smiley


I liked the video, but I feel like I've used some drugs after watching it ! HAHAHA !

Fun, I enjoyed it,. Do you make reservation for the Eurotunnel before you go ?
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2007, 06:49:35 PM »

Don't woory ... I'll bo all my best to restore it with the true vector monitor/pcb first  Shocked

Ok, let's quickly examine it.

Atari Euro Model :



Two boards :

- [ A ] BOARD / BATTLE ZONE AUX BD  arrow



- [ B ] BOARD / 6502A ANALOG VEC GEN  arrow



The usual Audio Regulator board....



The power supply ... full of dust  confused



Ok, let's power on the game :

- Nothing on screen (but the tube is powered)
- 1 high tone
- 1 low tune

Check out the doc :



Ok, the problem is during the self procedure, so that's the reason I can't see anything on the screen... The monitor display things AFTER the self-test...

Let's pull off the boards, in order to localize the *bad* ram(s ?) :





Here's what I need  arrow



Ref : 2114L3PC / 8030
« Last Edit: November 18, 2007, 04:57:11 PM by DarthNuno » Logged

DarthNuno
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« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2013, 02:33:34 PM »

...and back on this! After several *untested* boards bought here & there ($$$ oppps) ... I still didn't see anything on this XY monitor!  oppps

Ok, no more complain! Let's what I can do to fix this!

I'll use the cleanest Battlezone board I own, the one who -at least- does the self test procedure!
So this one gives me 8 long tones and 1 long high tone, which is indicates a problem at RAM D2  arrow



RAM at D2 :



Got this stuff since several years now! It's time to use it...



RAM D2 replaced, but now the self test procedure indicates me a problem at RAM C1  shock



OK, let's put a new ram @ C1 location, it cannot be a bad thing after all!



Power on ... and ... no boot at all! I mean even no self test procedure.

maybe something goes wrong during the un/soldering procedure?

Bingo, I cut by mistake a track. Let's quickly fix this  arrow



But still no boot!  Ghost

Here's the test I've done to figure out what could be wrong now :

If I remove RAM at D2, the game goes again into the self test procedure, and of course indicate me a problem at RAM D2!
OK, so maybe the new RAM I've used for D2 is also bad? I trying with an other one  -> no boot!
So let's use the ram I've replaced at C1 and use it at D2 -> no boot!

In conclusion, whatever the RAM I place at D2 location, this prevents the board to boot and go to the self test procedure!
Damw, I double / triple checked all the tracks linked to the D2 ram, and see no mistake! What else could be wrong ?  Evil
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speleo_de
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« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2013, 04:06:43 PM »

Have you checked that
- your jumper wire doesn't short to any traces on the solder sider?
- on the parts side you have no shorts between socket pins and traces running between them?
- you have for the IC socket pins conductivity between solder and parts side?

Just some thoughts....
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DarthNuno
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« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2013, 05:18:11 PM »

Well, already tried these basics check... but didn't find anything wrong  Undecided I've other BZ boards to compare with... but no luck so far.
Maybe the 'new' RAM chip I'm using wouldn't be fully compatible with the old ones still in place?
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speleo_de
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« Reply #7 on: November 04, 2013, 05:32:56 PM »

You can not rule out a bad series or incompatible 2114s - but never seen that.

If you have a logic probe, check the address/databus/chipselect lines of that 2114 for activity when (pushing)/releasing the reset button. It can also be Bus Drivers or Address Decoders.

If the PCB was here, I'd connect the Fluke 9010A now and do Bus Test, RAM Test etc...
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