[Restoration] Gauntlet - warrior needs food ...

[Superully]

Did you check for any damage inside the switcher?

just opened the switcher and the first thing that jumps into my face is that totally blown fuse



since i don't have a fuse of that SIZE at home, i'll have to test the game with a new switcher, so we need to figure out how to rewire it. is it like i've posted above?

[Laschek]

Ahaaaaaaaaa  
Maybe it's easier to swap the fuse from one of your other switchers (if it's the same).
I just took a look at the wiring diagram, it seems that this is not an ordinary switcher as it has + and - sense lines which are normally used to automatically regulate +5V.

According to the schematic:

"-" (brown wire) = GND
"+" (red wire) = +5V
"+S" (red/white wire) = + sense
"-S" (brown/white wire) = - sense

(I guess other voltages are provided by the Audio/Regulator Board)

So I'm afraid you will have to use this switcher. I know how to bypass the sense lines on the older Atari Games, no clue how it works on Gauntlet though. I don't think that leaving them unconnected would work.

[Superully]

THX!!! first i'll have to find out what type of fuse the switcher needs (where's my magnifying glass?) and then i'll check other switchers for it. i'll report back later!

[Laschek]

I seem to read 5A on the pic?

[Etienne MacGyver]

Looks like 5A to me

So a fuse blown on the powerblock and one blown in the switcher...

sounds like a major short to me 

[Superully]

I seem to read 5A on the pic?

agreed, but is it fast blow or slow blow? any chance to find that out?

[Superully]

So a fuse blown on the powerblock and one blown in the switcher...
sounds like a major short to me 

agreed again! it was working fine WITHOUT anything connected, but then i plugged in both the monitor and the pcbs and it blew. what could cause such a short? bad wiring?

[Superully]

According to the schematic:

"-" (brown wire) = GND
"+" (red wire) = +5V
"+S" (red/white wire) = + sense
"-S" (brown/white wire) = - sense

so that means connecting one lead to brown and the other to red should measure +5V on the multimeter? i'm pretty sure (99 %) though that i got both +5V and -5V by connecting + with +S and - with -S. hmmm, no chance to check that now though because the switcher's fuse is blown!

[Superully]

just checke all my spare switchers (a total of TWO ): one has the fuse soldered in, the other fuse is just 3A

this means i have to order replacement fuses (rs online is my friend, because they cost close to nothing), the big question is SLOW or FAST blow. i can easily order both types because they are so cheap, but in the end i have to decide which type to install!

anyone?

[Etienne MacGyver]

in the case of a short both of them will blow ully  

I think slowblow will be fine

[SeTTleR]

just checke all my spare switchers (a total of TWO ): one has the fuse soldered in, the other fuse is just 3A

this means i have to order replacement fuses (rs online is my friend, because they cost close to nothing), the big question is SLOW or FAST blow. i can easily order both types because they are so cheap, but in the end i have to decide which type to install!

anyone?

Hi Ully,
this was shortly discussed on the german ArcadeInfo board by Mr. Laschek 
http://community.arcadeinfo.de/showthread.php?t=14215&highlight=sicherung+tr%E4ge <-- There is the link.
Maybe you find the answer there.

[Superully]

thx, if i've filtered that correct information, the difference between slow blow and fast blow is just the time it takes to "start", so i guess i'll go for fast blow. hope it does neither of that, no blow would be my choice !

what would you do / can i do to prevent another short? what is there to check?

[SeTTleR]

thx, if i've filtered that correct information, the difference between slow blow and fast blow is just the time it takes to "start", so i guess i'll go for fast blow. hope it does neither of that, no blow would be my choice !

Exactly. It is the time it takes until the fuse blows if there is to much current. I think both types exist because you have some stress peaks for example if the machine is put on. The fuses must tolerate these and not blow. So in that case you would choose the slow blow fuse. If you choose the fast blow fuse and you are not lucky, it will blow immediately without a mistake in your system only because of this stress peaks.

[italiandoh]

i checked the fuses on the power supply, one of them was blown! i replaced it with a new one, removed the pcb and monitor connectors, measured the voltages again - same results. i plugged in the monitor connector, turned on the game, fuse didn't blow, i got a nice neckglow going, but of course no game picture.

turned the game off, plugged in the connector from the power supply to the game pcb (to see if it is getting the correct voltages), turned the game on again, fuse didn't blow, BUT the led on the pcb didn't come on

You didn't mention if the game was working before you disassembled everything.
It is usually a good idea to check what a fuse is going to protect when it blows before re-attempting to switch back on the machine. Did you check that ?

Matteo

[Superully]

You didn't mention if the game was working before you disassembled everything.

i did mention it, but perhaps you missed it. game was working perfectly, but the monitor was "flickery" like hell, so i did a cap kit on it. could a misaligned capacitor (+ and - exchanged) be the reason for the short? i'm almost 100 per cent sure i didn't make any mistakes when installing the cap kit, but you can never be 100% sure, can you?

It is usually a good idea to check what a fuse is going to protect when it blows before re-attempting to switch back on the machine. Did you check that ?

nope, how can i do that? two fuses blew: one in the switcher itself and one on the power supply? do you need to know which one?