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Author Topic: [Restoration] Moon Patrol - Return to the Lunar Surface  (Read 67308 times)
Superully
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« Reply #90 on: February 18, 2011, 07:16:39 PM »

so you do get it  Grin
thats why i said "for example"  Cool
everything that is in connection with a trace, is good...
all the "light green" are traces (basicly cupper covered with some green crap) and the "dark green" are the places where is no cupper
so it does not matter which point you use, as long as its connecting the points together.

i get it, but does that mean than that for example i could connect BLUE2 to the solder joint two joints further to the left (labelled R311) and RED1 to RED4 or D301 further up left? or connect RED2 to the solder joint which is left of the red number 4?
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #91 on: February 18, 2011, 08:00:00 PM »

Correctly !

You get exactly what i am trying to explane

i assumed you knew "how" a pcb worked, but now you get it i think

The light is starting to burn  Grin

« Last Edit: February 18, 2011, 08:06:48 PM by Etienne » Logged
Superully
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« Reply #92 on: February 19, 2011, 10:29:01 AM »

ok, i beeped through all the ceramic resistor connections - got a BEEP everywhere. nevertheless, i "jump wired" everything just to make sure, but the picture stays the same - vertical line Cry. looks like i won't be playing moon patrol anytime soon - it was fun while it lasted ... for one hour! Sad
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baritonomarchetto
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« Reply #93 on: February 19, 2011, 10:38:46 AM »

ully, did you recapped COMPLETELY your monitor (i don't remember if you reported it in the previous pages)?
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #94 on: February 19, 2011, 01:58:42 PM »

i thought vertical lost is mostly the cause of a bad IC or transistor ?

edit:
just did a goolge for "vertical collapse monitor" and found this:

6 - Vertical collapse
Sometimes intermittent. Sometimes only partial collapse. A solid white line across the screen.
Fault with the vertical deflection circuitry. Many causes, Dry joints, elecrolytic capacitors, Vertical output I.C., vertical Oscillator etc.


source
« Last Edit: February 19, 2011, 02:01:42 PM by Etienne » Logged
Superully
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« Reply #95 on: February 19, 2011, 02:02:20 PM »

ully, did you recapped COMPLETELY your monitor (i don't remember if you reported it in the previous pages)?

nope, i didn't! could bad caps also be the reason?
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baritonomarchetto
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« Reply #96 on: February 19, 2011, 04:10:01 PM »

Sure they can!! Take the Sanyo EZ-20 monitor Nintendo most used: vertical collapse (and notice that you have not a 100% collapse) is very frequent and due to a bad capacitor... GO WITH A CAP KIT!


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DarthNuno
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« Reply #97 on: February 19, 2011, 04:34:39 PM »

ully, did you recapped COMPLETELY your monitor (i don't remember if you reported it in the previous pages)?

nope, i didn't! could bad caps also be the reason?

Yes it can! I got a similar problem on my POPEYE, and new caps definitively fixed it  Cool
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Superully
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« Reply #98 on: February 19, 2011, 04:48:28 PM »

Sure they can!! Take the Sanyo EZ-20 monitor Nintendo most used: vertical collapse (and notice that you have not a 100% collapse) is very frequent and due to a bad capacitor... GO WITH A CAP KIT!

does anyone know which capacitor this could most likely be? i won't have time for an entire cap kit, but i might get done a couple of them ...
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baritonomarchetto
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« Reply #99 on: February 19, 2011, 04:53:13 PM »

Most probably a cap on the vertical retrace circuit... anyhow, you know, it's better to substitute all the caps at the same time when the chassis is removed just to avoid caps related probs in the near future

Take your time Ully: at least you have an hint now  Wink
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« Reply #100 on: February 19, 2011, 05:01:48 PM »

What monitor is this ?
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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #101 on: February 19, 2011, 05:52:41 PM »

Based on a earlier posted pic, i assume that this part is for the vertical output:



So i would suggest to cap it complete, but if you dont have the time / caps i would give the red circels a try  Wink

(could be that i skipped a "c" though.. )

Many times they use a "range" of numbers for a specific function, so my guess is looking for caps in the C 300 - C 399 range to replace
I circeled some in the 700 range, so i think they have nothing to do with the vertical section, and you can skip them for this problem.
« Last Edit: February 19, 2011, 05:56:00 PM by Etienne » Logged
baritonomarchetto
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« Reply #102 on: February 20, 2011, 01:03:20 PM »

It should be an MTC900 (NOT 900/E) because of the color of the PCB and the printing of the components on the solder side... my Joust also have that monitor in
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Robinholland
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« Reply #103 on: February 20, 2011, 01:17:08 PM »

Check the yellow points
Resolder these

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Etienne MacGyver
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« Reply #104 on: February 20, 2011, 02:11:40 PM »

By looking carefully again to your board it looks like this resistor (R311) has a bad joint..



beep between this leg of the resistor and the leg of C310 on the component side with your DVM to see if there is a good conductivety..
in the worst case, solder a bridge on the component side.. (not the most elegant way, but if it solves your problem ..)
and sand the legs of the parts before you do it, it could be oxidised over the years..
« Last Edit: February 20, 2011, 02:31:19 PM by Etienne » Logged
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