Okay, where to start? Got one NAC that is too much and therefore would like to sell it. Had the shell sitting here a while and have been working the past week on restoring it and basically just finished it.
A little history: The lower front and the monitor are from my Astro 2. Those who are regulars on Arcade Otaku might remember that I had to drill out one screw of the lower front - however there is still some tread left and the screw screws into that. However I am sure it can be fixed by filling it with something and drilling a new hole into it - KmanSweden will be your dude to talk to about that (
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=14630#p189228 )
The monitor is a Nanao MS8-29. It has slight burn but this is (as usual) hardly noticeable and mostly only on pure white screens or when the monitor is exposed to sunlight and not switched on. Richy13 testimonial on the MS8-29:
Always liked the MS8-29 i think it looks better than a MS9 the picture/scan lines are more like the nanao 2931.
richard
Source:
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=14904&p=191734#p191402Now to what I have been working on all week - the wiring. The Astro 2 wiring was terrible - some Japanese OP had it hacked to implemented an Aero PSU and the monitor which has Tyco Mate n Lok connectors. But that ain't your concern any more since I made a custom wiring adapter which has the usual Sega / Astro 15 Pin Amp U-P connector and the Tyco MnL on the other side - very neat and tidy!
So I restored almost all of the wiring. My base was a Versus City 002 loom. For those who don't know it - the 002 loom is the Versus City version of the infamous Blast City 001 loom. This means it has an RCA stereo in and a 4-pin Amp U-P out which would allow you to hook it up to an amp that has the 4 pin audio in (like the seperate NAC amp or the NVS-4000). The Astro 2 wiring is mono as the Astro 1 is, but I added stereo capability like in the NAC wiring diagram. Also, being a Versus City loom, this NAC is now like a half Versus and has a second RGB out stock and detachable P1 and P2 looms - this would be the easiest way to custom wire a link wiring to a second Astro (or whatever cab) and make a Versus Setup! :awe:
All the connections can be detached since I used AMP U-P connectors on them all. Professional and neat. Those of you who know my OCD will know, that I don't do things half-hearted when it comes to tech. Besides the usual crimping, I always make sure there are perfect connections by additionally soldering the contacts. So yeah, you can basically just plug the 002 loom out if you want (whyever you'd want it). The 002 loom was NOS btw, so no snapped edges on the edge connector! Okay, some of you might already have looked at the 002 loom's wiring diagram now and have noticed that this one has no -5V line. W00t? No Cave? YES CAVE! I added a -5V line. In the usual Sega wire colour code colour (bright green) - yes, my OCD! :awe:
So what I am trying to say - it is a custom wiring, yes - but it is German build quality and looking professional :awe:
- Speakers are original (in case you saw my wanted topic and wondered
)
- PSU is a NAC one (not the one from you Chubsta, I wouldn't give a freebie away! This one will go into my other NAC when it arrives!)
My attention to details: I changed the Japanese A-type plug which only has live and neutral and requires a separate earth/ground wire to a GND socket to a B-type plug which has a build in GND line - for easy hook-up with your stepdowns. Most people loose or can't fit that small black cord fixation which is inserted into the metal plate around the cord. Needless to say it is there - alive and kicking.
Okay, so now for the bad parts:
- no CP - I just don't got a spare at the moment and I guess people always buy a new CP at Akihabarashop or where ever anyway - so I considered this when I made up my mind regarding the price
- CP plastic surround has a 6 or 8mm hole through the 100 Yen sticker part (previous owner had a credit switch there). If you buy a new 100 Yen sticker from AGS / MCS or Riverservice, you won't see it any more
- no starter for FL tube. Couldn't find one. Has a FL tube but unable to test
- the back top part made of metal has a 24mm hole (for an OBSF-24 pushbutton?) in it. Looks clean with a 24mm button plug and not noticeable since it is on the back - and still, with the cap it looks like it has to be that way :awe:
- back hatch is not original
- no original locks, currently there are no locks inside but I should have some spare Naomi locks somewhere...
- screw and screen already mentioned
- oh yes, I didn't clean the cab yet but I guess that's the fun part in buying a cab so I gracefully left that fun for you
Pick up in Monheim near Düsseldorf or you find a courier who comes pick it up
Any question - fire away!
Imageshack Album here - shows a bit of the build process also:
http://img809.imageshack.us/g/dscf0017a.jpg/
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Includes another pair of laces (black as contrast to the white ones put on. Box is a but crushed but still in fair condition.
