Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: bencao74 on March 15, 2012, 02:27:47 PM
-
Guys, here`s my build log of my gameroom.
I`ve already posted my story in ArcadeZentrum and my blog.
This was the starting point:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TznDFORvtZo/T09vvwquD_I/AAAAAAAADrE/sS9jUgXgJrA/s320/Umbau%2BGameroom%2B007.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vfxY0CJmgvk/T09vvEZAzVI/AAAAAAAADqs/Svx29yIR8n0/s320/Umbau%2BGameroom%2B005.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UDZXAyREoE4/TezSriN5QLI/AAAAAAAACo4/igSBfrU0n_g/s320/IMG_1108.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/---7Ubn9mv8w/T09v1xUA3oI/AAAAAAAADrc/rnB-M3GCSsU/s320/Umbau%2BGameroom%2B010.jpg)
After collecting some cabs and pins I`ve made my mind about new renovation of the roomo I`m used to to call Gameroom.
Situation:
- Floor was bad
- No Floor and Ceiling insulation
- no electricity installation
This made the room a pretty mess.
So I started with the ceiling
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YSUL6keQK4U/T09v-2S-PGI/AAAAAAAADsI/_oQlV3bAknA/s320/Umbau%2BGameroom%2B014.jpg)
wood construction for plaster boards and insulation.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TxWazeQoPkY/T09v1d8MbKI/AAAAAAAADrQ/PuDoWZe5iAg/s320/Umbau%2BGameroom%2B009.jpg)
same time additional harness for power : 3 lines a 16A
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ow94_IKPNC8/T09r9jIuxrI/AAAAAAAADpk/ynBy6npm5UI/s320/2012-02-25_16-09-24_397.jpg)
some light installation electricity.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LYw6U2S94ZY/T09r9f3mrlI/AAAAAAAADpU/lUYHPtp3DQ8/s320/2012-02-25_14-06-53_778.jpg)
Palsterboard and insulation.
-
Next was shifting the ladder ceiling hole
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cs1mwhOTYhc/T1B0gx2_y5I/AAAAAAAADsY/nUo9Kb_QVMU/s320/2012-02-26_10-57-12_951.jpg)
it was in the middle of the room. Thus it was not practicable for placing cabs.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wsShuxltl_w/T1B0h_VMqGI/AAAAAAAADss/2Db_aBu3x9U/s320/2012-02-26_10-59-39_176.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rbyk56vXBTg/T1B0hTOTWII/AAAAAAAADsk/fWhg4LYQHUo/s320/2012-02-26_10-59-30_391.jpg)
sawing the holes in the upper level room
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TjnbvMjR3FE/T1B0iKgo__I/AAAAAAAADs8/F5h94EwZr9U/s320/2012-02-26_12-36-45_496.jpg)
closing the old hole and placing the ladder at the entrace.
-
Insulation in that place is not very good for the condition of your wooden floor. Don't know if that is a problem?
-
Two days later, timewarp
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BHLjqG55gJ0/T1B4GmvgDPI/AAAAAAAADtc/eAPTTz3c-Fs/s320/2012-02-27_12-48-39_211.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vfiaH2gbD8M/T1B4Gfk7G2I/AAAAAAAADtU/cWjtfIoHhSE/s320/2012-02-27_12-48-33_584.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sGn7h4U6UHE/T1B4Fxta_xI/AAAAAAAADtI/NIaIkB7vrGw/s320/2012-02-27_12-48-24_576.jpg)
Ceiling was finished with plasterbaord and I started to fill in the fissures.
But my time schedule was tight and instead we started to rip out the floor.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JdwsTfn8-xU/T1B4HKMNzJI/AAAAAAAADt0/Ql02cfXZaOE/s320/2012-02-27_12-48-51_194.jpg)
all wood plates was in one 6.60m piece!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8XaeMBUH-JA/T1B4NkqVdVI/AAAAAAAADuM/Jufi62XTlAk/s320/2012-02-27_13-36-25_108.jpg)
base construction
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G0nqqVijdZk/T1B4Nba-2JI/AAAAAAAADuE/yBCd42IG43c/s320/2012-02-27_13-36-19_241.jpg)
explains why my pinballs startes wobble
-
Insulation in that place is not very good for the condition of your wooden floor. Don't know if that is a problem?
don't know. upper room is insulated and floor will be insulated, too. So this is only a inbetween insulation for air coming out of the fissures of the wood and against loudness.
-
after I sweeped together the old wood basement construction we started with the new basement.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TdK3v6XMOaA/T1B58tuA0RI/AAAAAAAADuo/Ye_DIIqT_1I/s320/2012-02-28_09-52-25_401.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6BSh98xN4Y/T1B58DYhHWI/AAAAAAAADuc/6vSu-coWbbg/s320/2012-02-28_09-52-18_670.jpg)
some stones for fixing
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2K1DGlWm42k/T1B59D2Xd8I/AAAAAAAADu0/X5YAbDwTXIk/s320/2012-02-28_11-43-16_911.jpg)
protective foil
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q1fPjBz9cv4/T1B59lwjpBI/AAAAAAAADvA/T4QBEmPTU8s/s320/2012-02-28_11-43-31_28.jpg)
big saw. ;)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F75TlpJrjeg/T1B5-Bf8AjI/AAAAAAAADvI/SMW1oCCje4U/s320/2012-02-28_11-59-33_333.jpg)
big saw in action.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LHLcODpccWU/T1B6HYjAl0I/AAAAAAAADvY/Pt8BHcbBUI0/s320/2012-02-28_12-57-30_839.jpg)
putting together the new basement. I`ve doubled the amount of wood construction pcs. The`re 8cm x 16cm, all together 14pcs on length of 6.60m
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HPEnQpLbJ4s/T1B6H0NXBJI/AAAAAAAADvk/F2mkkDKOx2I/s320/2012-02-28_14-30-02_194.jpg)
floor insulation
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VfNOlQTexTo/T1B6IFkjAgI/AAAAAAAADvs/2F0-lVEOSas/s320/2012-02-28_15-22-05_569.jpg)
installation the first level of OSB plates for the floor.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r0W7S91aObg/T1B6JHnE2nI/AAAAAAAADwI/xGlU8HRyIWo/s320/2012-02-28_16-30-19_756.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KOdTy8T3QZM/T1B6IsONYkI/AAAAAAAADv8/_l8SmrJUTK8/s320/2012-02-28_16-30-11_213.jpg)
my helping friends was very proud of this work after 4 days.
-
after 4 days I took a break and did draw some planning for the cabs.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R3hnlfWzQTs/T1CRNzyDBzI/AAAAAAAADxA/Uo2F28Effeo/s320/Gameroom_03.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yo6wOY9drZk/T1CRNdBU24I/AAAAAAAADw4/crXNhKgtvIQ/s320/Gameroom_02.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IaxrrV9O7tM/T1CRSyy3uEI/AAAAAAAADxk/XeyiGRNgrkk/s320/Gameroom_06.jpg)
:) was quite fun to see how it could end finally.
-
But quit dreaming, back to normal life again. The filling fun starts
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fkgByBQNBWc/T1WoHIGSGNI/AAAAAAAADx0/8pJ1YEMltBs/s320/2012-03-03_10-15-20_574.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t8L4Yqurpms/T1WoIiO7brI/AAAAAAAADyY/j6YM3_f6Kfc/s320/2012-03-03_10-15-57_906.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WT8GIyodsss/T1WoIVLHdBI/AAAAAAAADyI/rxl-yLVMgUM/s320/2012-03-03_10-15-43_249.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oUT5wXqoY7g/T1WoIE9mETI/AAAAAAAADyA/nQk0hJ78x7E/s320/2012-03-03_10-15-32_98.jpg)
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7h4nkOvkgQU/T1WoJRFWPqI/AAAAAAAADyg/gS_3k_BLgYA/s320/2012-03-04_13-07-13_603.jpg (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7h4nkOvkgQU/T1WoJRFWPqI/AAAAAAAADyg/gS_3k_BLgYA/s320/2012-03-04_13-07-13_603.jpg)
no more fissure. Now the acryl starts to get a smooth junction to the wood. I noticed that the ceiling wood is not in good shape and started to sand down all ceiling construction wood.
-
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wCjAzv2oq5U/T1d-Yaj8PDI/AAAAAAAADz0/6XHcD4mnXv8/s320/2012-03-07_07-24-18_663.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LB6U27ZZ6gE/T1d-X9bCTDI/AAAAAAAADzs/Z88RB5cy17k/s320/2012-03-07_07-24-11_203.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M9osfHLLYrs/T1d-YQm-P7I/AAAAAAAAD0E/HEK7uM_fVXo/s320/2012-03-07_07-24-47_164.jpg)
it was really worth it!
-
next action was ripping up the walls :
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pz-89W_v5UM/T1WqeOTpRDI/AAAAAAAADyw/0YrOthzIb88/s320/2012-03-04_11-22-59_484.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jHBHX_XIrv0/T1Wqfnll9AI/AAAAAAAADzU/IDeSvZ5YL7A/s320/2012-03-04_11-22-48_883.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CNlgWFct2pM/T1WqefmYU3I/AAAAAAAADy8/EFixI1-koQc/s320/2012-03-04_11-22-29_391.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o_7zh-yzCno/T1WqgFmjLgI/AAAAAAAADzg/J0XCGRF4qbY/s320/2012-03-04_11-41-25_242.jpg)
That was really fun. :)
Especially this one
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QTPlTzivGLA/T13qUGRgcTI/AAAAAAAAD1k/D8_L_9Uaj_M/s320/2012-03-10_08-19-01_681.jpg)
Jaaa, I`m a lucky one. Could have end in a really bad story.
-
So when ripping up the walls I thougth I could do the same for heater tubes
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vaMPBDdPxEs/T13pZVv2BGI/AAAAAAAAD1I/2_gYYkbOa18/s320/2012-03-08_20-51-06_496.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3T5pw1UWvgk/T13pZHB2gYI/AAAAAAAAD1A/sjipeiX1bv8/s320/2012-03-10_11-04-52_157.jpg)
Filling in again the sockets:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b7l2fO8wXR8/T13qUqnMS1I/AAAAAAAAD1w/oEw4ZB0MMJw/s320/2012-03-10_11-04-40_529.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F0pwLumM9xI/T13qU81F5vI/AAAAAAAAD18/Vc4eBRrglCQ/s320/2012-03-10_11-06-12_278.jpg)
I`ve foresee 30 sockets.
4 socket on one 1 line 16A for fridge, light and deco stuff
26 sockets divided up on two lines 16A.
additional 5 wire data line for switching each socket with low voltage.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XnUEhg-uXE4/T13s6cYkJiI/AAAAAAAAD3Y/3YsntECeX5Y/s320/2012-03-11_19-49-02_944.jpg)
central point of wiring plus data wires.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mGHg-H7bfOI/T13s7NkMU1I/AAAAAAAAD30/_Kw9S8AJLP4/s320/2012-03-11_20-34-12_413.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-82qNu8st5Uc/T13qVpzoLgI/AAAAAAAAD2U/EabGGk9q-Ik/s320/2012-03-10_15-19-17_98.jpg)
filling in again
some problem
replacement of a faulty installed plate
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D5fhClGc4Tw/T13qkWWJdQI/AAAAAAAAD20/wamYl8emjJI/s320/2012-03-10_13-59-16_814.jpg)
nearly finished the ceiling
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aZLDNQdICkE/T13qkMfQcsI/AAAAAAAAD2s/N6TTLyeFn7I/s320/2012-03-10_15-19-25_844.jpg)
-
So this is the summary of the first days of renovation. I filled all ripping and connected the electrical installation. Next action is painting, floor and looking for furniture :)
Hoped you had some nice minutes watching the pics.
-
Whooaa! Can I be your new best friend? ;D
Seriously, this looks great, bencao74. I love these kinds of threads. If you really end up putting a diner table and couches in there, it will be so great! Is this part of your house, or a standalone unit btw?
Keep us posted.
-
indeed, I`ve made today the order for the custom diner bank and table :)
I found a shop offering the base and then you could add custom options.
Finally I had to decide between this both models.
(http://diner-moebel.net/Index_htm_files/30.jpg)
(http://diner-moebel.net/Index_htm_files/9.jpg)
After some googling I asked about stepping, knobs, logo and color options.
Like this one
(http://diner-moebel.net/Index_htm_files/190.jpg) or this one (http://diner-moebel.net/Index_htm_files/171.jpg) or this (http://diner-moebel.net/Index_htm_files/162.jpg)
Coz I found it somehow difficult to decide I`ve made some simple scetches in scetchup
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_6yECuTFmLQ/T2BzfuQHsXI/AAAAAAAAD4Y/_S-uADtxinU/s320/bank_classic_003.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QFgtpbQyks4/T2BzfVcF2hI/AAAAAAAAD4M/qvvpOeMH3F4/s320/bank_classic_002.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ydHwdb84sjI/T2BzgkZb8uI/AAAAAAAAD4w/1DDE4chTgw4/s320/bank_classic_rot_001.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4lIbqM5WA3w/T2BzvBV6xZI/AAAAAAAAD48/FTFe3YHF_JY/s320/bank_classic_rot_003.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kA-ARY8IFtk/T2BzvrM-l4I/AAAAAAAAD5U/7sYUcQjpGM4/s320/bank_las_vegas_002.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRM5WB7yXDU/T2BzvdHuOnI/AAAAAAAAD5E/t2wDAh1sewU/s320/bank_las_vegas_001.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qNNZGk5Yf0o/T2Bzv1u68RI/AAAAAAAAD5c/M1ochewychs/s320/bank_las_vegas_003.jpg)
I`ve ordered the complete red one with 4 steppings on a 120cm long bank. Each stepping is from the outer sides is 20cm leaving place 40cm for the logo in the middle. The logo will be sewed in cremewhite color. The desk plate will be in creme white magnolia in 4cm aluminum frame. This way the color of the logo is matching to the desk color. Both basement of diner bank and table is black.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cvsYjWgp7aA/T2B1EexinXI/AAAAAAAAD5s/MJrDqMogwZ0/s320/319-8040.jpg)
sample desk
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_SI7-bT5v5I/T2B1EyItrAI/AAAAAAAAD6E/UUaNR5mQFYk/s320/100_1446-747108.JPG)
color of desk bank will be "loud red" (wtf??)
(http://www.arcadezentrum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15633&d=1331714325)
-
I live in a very old farmers house from 1870 something. Over the years this house was getting two attachments. This was the attachment where the old joinery was in the 50 or 60s. After that time it never get a renovation. But it`s completly integrated into the house.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6838606626_8789572262.jpg)
-
Looking good !
-
Thanks :)my gf is looking forward to get me finish. She wants to get rid of the cabs spreaded over all rooms. ;)
-
wonderful jochen, i've been following your gameroom progress over on the german forum already, glad that your thread made it "over here". what you have is the best possible scenario: a gameroom integrated into your house. hell, you can even go there naked without anyone caring! :P
-
Looking Good Jochen! I also like the bank and table idea but if i'll get some more space in the future i'll definitely install a bar like muerto has. ;D
-
Excellent work and looks like a lot done in only a few days! :)
-
Very nice ! What's it going to be called, Barncade ? :P
I am waiting for the first guy to say: "get rid of the benches and table, it's a waste of space where you can put cabs"..................... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
P.S. you got a US customer from the KLOV forum through me, he bought one of this line blankers (what's the name again?)
-
Thanks a lot guys :)
Jep, I had this plan all over the last winter in my head. When the first weather was coming in the beginning of march I`ve started the renovation. :) Was quite straight forward the last two weeks.
A bar is indeed also a very good idea :)
@Level42 Thanks a lot for the recommendation :) SLG3000 is the name.
-
http://www.barncade.com/
this is a dream ;)
-
Great work so far!
Maybe you should reconsider the placement of your beauties: i.e. i would place the two pins side-by-side instead of in two opposite walls ;)
-
I am waiting for the first guy to say: "get rid of the benches and table, it's a waste of space where you can put cabs"..................... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Haha that already started in the german boards :D
Once again: very nice work! Can't wait to see it finished!
-
Very nice Jochen, I love that wooden interior. :D
-
@Belike : Sanding down the bars was horrible. I need a new ladder/stairs.
Yes, I was considering placing the pinballs side by side also. Time for an update :)
-
Looking good so far, Jochen. I like the idea :-* :spaceace: of the beer table and chairs, very stilish.
-
Looking Great! ;D
Strange design for your sub floor.. never seen that done before! No worries about moisture seeping in and soaking insulation?
-
Looking Great! ;D
Strange design for your sub floor.. never seen that done before! No worries about moisture seeping in and soaking insulation?
There´s a plastic membrane underneath the insulation....
-
exactly, there is plastic foil for the insulation material. So this should work. I´ve seen this kind installation in some old house also with Styrodur / Styropor.
Delivery time of furniture is 4 weeks. So time to finish the rest.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n9LjefAgT-c/T2xKlphUXeI/AAAAAAAAD80/JYw4-efS43Y/s320/IMG_0302.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V9kEXFvjXZo/T2xKlTLOhxI/AAAAAAAAD8k/qghzPeTxiMQ/s320/IMG_0301.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jQEQ3dY3X2o/T2xKk1cG_LI/AAAAAAAAD8c/FMDJvokRsp4/s320/IMG_0300.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jYn3RkGOD_0/T2xKkYD-R-I/AAAAAAAAD8Q/TgtvdSuFbKE/s320/IMG_0298.JPG)
Comparing the old pics with the ripped walls this comes out really nice. Next I was painting the ceiling the last time and ripped of the paint protection from the wooden bars.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I-bY3xPaZAQ/T2xK8I2pp8I/AAAAAAAAD-o/ury4tK3zRwg/s320/IMG_0308.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K7_BI7VGhSM/T2xK7kGhfCI/AAAAAAAAD-c/VRCPD-LIPUc/s320/IMG_0307.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5x0mDW1ABls/T2xK8TMa5JI/AAAAAAAAD-4/HYmtVc5zS0U/s320/IMG_0309.JPG)
-
Starting with the floor :
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ix4i0gO5WAs/T2xK7YfAczI/AAAAAAAAD-U/KXf0szXo_ek/s320/IMG_0313.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HN3R6hGWsrg/T2xK62syXPI/AAAAAAAAD-I/29ZoCBh03ZM/s320/IMG_0312.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NwzXcqw6ups/T2xKwM-gGEI/AAAAAAAAD9Y/Z2ikPGnbAPQ/s320/IMG_0310.JPG)
when I was fed up with floor I installed some sockets
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rtknmh6eS5Q/T2xKw1lZJeI/AAAAAAAAD9w/mbpsCCF6rkU/s320/IMG_0305.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TN534kNszmk/T2xKweBqgxI/AAAAAAAAD9k/r2ocvZ5lHtw/s320/IMG_0306.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KMWGH64spIQ/T2xKxRMkx5I/AAAAAAAAD98/nckR4FS8izU/s320/IMG_0304.JPG)
Changing work keeps me motivated. Finally Lotte and Nike inspected my work ;)
-
You're living the dream, man. :spaceace:
Love to follow this build!
-
Great progress!
I like the laminate flooring
-
I like the laminate flooring
;D Thanks a lot !!!
:)
-
This is coming along nicely, bencao! Nice cat too! :)
-
Looking good! - nice progress!! :spaceace: :spaceace:
-
Good job Bencao :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
-
Classy !
-
Looking Great! ;D
Strange design for your sub floor.. never seen that done before! No worries about moisture seeping in and soaking insulation?
I was thinking the same thing, but realized that different countries have different building standards. For example, in Canada, that will not pass inspection for 2 main reasons:
- your footings are on top of the ground. In Canada, because of -30C or colder winters, the ground swells and moves. It will break your floor and house into pieces. Here we have to put concrete beams almost 2 meters deep into the ground! (below frost line)
- we never put wood close to ground due to termites or carpenter ants. It's a big problem here with 100+ year old homes.
Still, very interesting. Some other things I found interesting about this build is:
- electrical lines are 16 amp. (our standard is 15 or 20)
- electrical lines installed into round openings. We have a standard that all outlets must be in metal boxes. These boxes are all grounded to prevent shock and fire.
Keep up with the pics! And thank you for sharing.
-
US/Canadian/UK electrical standards are ancient. We have left metal housings and tubes behind ages ago, thank god, everything is plastic.
Round holes are much easier to make in walls using one of these:
(http://www.suzuki-4wd.nl/bouw/5/8b.jpg)
Another advantage is that the boxes can be connected together to make a row in any way you like:
(http://data:image/jpeg;base64,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)
We recently had a project at work, a data center from an Irish company, near Amsterdam. They had hired Irish installers and ALL electricity was done using metal piping and UK boxes. No problem, but they also used this for our fire alarm system and it was a nightmare, we had loads of earth leaks and practical problems. F.I. UK standards say that a device that is directly connected to the mains (without a plug) must have a switch installed near the device. However, it is kind of silly to make a switch near a fire control panel because you do -not- want someone to switch of the mains for a fire alrm, so there were a lot of discussions following.
We simply use a separate 16A group (fuse) which has its group switch in the electrical cabinet which is usually restricted access.
The bad thing is that Dutch norms still allow metal piping and boxes so they were allowed to install it here...
I think that it is at least 45 years ago that metal was used here, maybe longer.
I can't think of how expensive it must be to still do metal piping.
On the other hand, I think US norms allow to run wire through fake walls without any protection in homes. We Must use( plastic) tube everywhere. like this:
(http://www.electroshop.nl/product_images/s/290/buis-Polivolt-lf__58237_zoom.jpg)
or easier, flex pipe like this:
(http://www.electrogold.nl/media/catalog/category/Flexibele_pijp_58_16mm_creme_10_meter.jpg)
-
same in Denmark! :)
-
I should clarify some assumptions that were made in this thread; for those that have never done electrical work in different parts of the world.
Unlike most of the world, in Canada/USA most homes are build from wood. (Stone/brick is used on the outside of the house for beauty only. It adds no structural support. In fact, we use metal ties every few rows of brick, to attach the stone/brick to the wood!)
Wood is cheap .. I mean REALLY REALLY cheap for us. We have forests in Canada that are bigger than 3X the size of all of Europe. It's also a lot faster/easier to work with wood, than with stone. Wood is also a lot warmer (imagine walking on a concrete slab when it's -30C outside .. imagine how much it will cost you to heat a concrete house vs a wood house).
Between the wood studs/joists (typically set 16" apart) insulation is installed, and finally, drywall/gypsum board is screwed into the wood. Inside these cavities, electrical, plumbing, cable TV, etc is ran. Holes are drilled into the wood, and wire is pulled. Typical electrical wire is called 14/2 (14 gauge solid core with 2 wires insulated, and a 3rd not). The 2 insulated wires are in plastic, and all 3 are then twisted and bunched together in another outer insulation of plastic. black wire is 110V, white wire is neutral, uninsulated wire is ground (which is the same as neutral, as the 2 connect together in the electrical panel).
So metal "tubes" are NOT used. I can imagine it to be very difficult to work with and not flexible. The ends though have to go into metal boxes. If there's ever a SPARK, you don't want it to start a fire and burn your house down! Hence why metal boxes are required by law. We have plastic boxes, but they can only be used for low voltage applications (telephone, cable TV, internet).
I live in a 100 year old house. It had old electrical wire, and no cable TV. The advantage of wood homes is that it's very easy to run new wire without breaking the wall. You drill a small hole at the top and "fish" the wire through. You can also use really long, flexible, drill bits that drill through the wood, and then you can pull the wire. Little patching .. and you're done.
Hope this clears some things up. Please do continue to share stories.. construction methods interest me a lot .. I've never worked with a concrete house before, and always wondered how the heck electrical wire is pulled through one.
-
They have the pipes and points in before pouring the concrete, and then the electrician only needs to pull the wires in with one of these:
(http://www.abro.nl/CB2005%20Quadroflex%20CBP30.jpg)
That is what i have understand from "prefab" houses
basicly the house is build from concrete panels that where "pre fabricated" in the factory and put together on the building site
(http://www.bouwbedrijfhulshof.nl/lijsten/img/upload/P10100022.jpg)
That are the inner walls, and then they put insolation on that and build a brick wall around it for the outside wall
(http://www.heembeton.nl/storage/projects/6019-0_thumb.jpg)
and here the same building with the outer wall and the windows installed:
(http://www.heembeton.nl/storage/projects/6019-1_thumb.jpg)
and inside the the two walls there is the insulation:
(http://www.ceesbakker.nl/images/upload/gg050303-64.jpg)
You get the idea i think
-
The plastic boxes used here can easily withstand any sparks (although I have no idea how a spark can happen in a well installed installation), in fact because they are plastic there is no chance of passing through any sparks or mains carrying wires that may be damaged and get "open" unlike metal boxes.
For this reason your metal boxes must be earthed very well and there is a risk in that if the earth connection ever gets damaged or carrying a higher restinance.
So that's why I don't understand why you guys still use them.
I think the metal tubing is still used in buildings that are not homes over there. I have seen the wire as you described but with a metal shielding like a shower hose and I saw that a lot in non-residential buildings.
In general we try to hide our cabling as much as possible here. Like Etienne describes. My home was not built from prefab concrete elements but they used tunnel-building. Because they build a lot of similar homes in relatively large numbers on a certain site they use a metal tunnel or, if you want, mould. Concrete is poured around the tunnel and then they heat the tunnel from the inside using fixed torches to make the concrete set quicker. In is building style, and other poured concrete walls, the plastic pipes and wall outlet boxes are mounted before the pouring of th concrete.
If you have to make new piping in excisting hard walls then there is no choice but to make sleuths with a special "frees" (cutter ?) In gypsum block walls which we often use for inside walls you can even do this with a hand tool easily by scraping.
-
What happens with these concrete homes if new technology is introduced in the future? For example, what would you have to do if 10 years from now you'd want to install fiber optics throughout the house?
As for sparks .. it's actually more common than you think. Electrician/plumbers run their wires first, then the gypsum board guys come in and put it up. Well guess what happens when the electrician pulls the wire to close to the edge of the wood??? You get gypsum board screws that go right through electrical wire!! Or when a home owner decides to use really long nails to put up a picture, and hammers right through an electrical wire!! It's actually law now to use special breakers in the pannel that detect this sort of situation, and turn off on its own.
The only time you'd see steel pipes in commercial applications is if you see the wire .. If the wire is in the wall, you don't need to put it in any conduit. Again, this is safety for fires. Plastic burns easily, the steel pipes slow down the fire from spreading (try burning a coke plastic bottle .. it will burn for longer and hotter than paper!)
Back in the 1970's, copper was very very expensive. It was common to use aluminium wire. Over the years, people tended to tie aluminium with copper (which is a huge no-no as you can't mix copper with any other metal). For example, in my house, I found this in the basement. The boxes were all black on the inside (i.e. electrical fire!) But because it was a metal box, it kept the electrical fire within.
Plastic on the other hand melts at much lower temperature. Plastic also releases toxic fumes that can knock a person out long before the fire kills them. This is why, for example, in high rise buildings, it is illegal to use PVC/ABS for plumbing .. it must be copper/brass! It prevents fires from one unit spreading to the next via the plumbing stacks.
The point of all of this is that electrical fires are a lot more common than one would want to believe .. I'm sure if my house was poured concrete I could have a camp fire in the middle of the kitchen floor. :) But instead, it's all wood framing, with gypsum board, and hardwood floors throughout the entire house.
-
What happens with these concrete homes if new technology is introduced in the future? For example, what would you have to do if 10 years from now you'd want to install fiber optics throughout the house?
You pull out the copper and draw the fibers through the old pipes. You'll need fibers that can do pretty tight turns though, usually fibers cannot be bend too much or else you will damage it.
Usually fiber just comes into the house and people have Wifi in the house though...
As for sparks .. it's actually more common than you think. Electrician/plumbers run their wires first, then the gypsum board guys come in and put it up. Well guess what happens when the electrician pulls the wire to close to the edge of the wood??? You get gypsum board screws that go right through electrical wire!!
Or when a home owner decides to use really long nails to put up a picture, and hammers right through an electrical wire!!
And exactly THAT is the reason why it is mandatory here to use pipes. They protect the wire (of course to a certain extend) from these things happening.
It's actually law now to use special breakers in the pannel that detect this sort of situation, and turn off on its own.
You mean earth-leak detectors. Those are mandatory since 1975 in The Netherlands........
The only time you'd see steel pipes in commercial applications is if you see the wire .. If the wire is in the wall, you don't need to put it in any conduit. Again, this is safety for fires. Plastic burns easily, the steel pipes slow down the fire from spreading (try burning a coke plastic bottle .. it will burn for longer and hotter than paper!)
That is why the plastic used for electrical pipes need to be fire retardant and self extinguishing.
In larger buildings, at places where pipes, cables etc. go through a fire section wall (60 minutes fireproof) or floor, ALL the holes must be filled with fireproof sealant like this:
(http://www.vistech.nl/fotosBA/1.jpg)
Back in the 1970's, copper was very very expensive. It was common to use aluminium wire. Over the years, people tended to tie aluminium with copper (which is a huge no-no as you can't mix copper with any other metal). For example, in my house, I found this in the basement. The boxes were all black on the inside (i.e. electrical fire!) But because it was a metal box, it kept the electrical fire within.
Aluminum wire was never allowed here, it has always been copper. The boxes we use also have to pass fire resistant tests, just like the piping and are also fire retardant & self extinguishing.
Plastic also releases toxic fumes that can knock a person out long before the fire kills them. This is why, for example, in high rise buildings, it is illegal to use PVC/ABS for plumbing .. it must be copper/brass! It prevents fires from one unit spreading to the next via the plumbing stacks.
True. That is an issue. For that halogen free pipes are available but regretfully the governments are slow as always and do not demand that these are used. Plumbing pipes can be plastic here, same stuff fire retardant etc. and when they go through fire section walls and floors need to be made 60 minute fire proof in larger buildings.
The point of all of this is that electrical fires are a lot more common than one would want to believe .. I'm sure if my house was poured concrete I could have a camp fire in the middle of the kitchen floor. :) But instead, it's all wood framing, with gypsum board, and hardwood floors throughout the entire house.
Yeah, wood burns pretty nicely. And it also doesn't withstand hurricanes and storms very well. Like you mention yourself, the reason why you guys choose wood is simple: price.
Wood is probably more expensive here plus it takes more labour to build with wood. Labour is very expensive here.
About needing piles of a couple of meters: In the western part of Holland where I live, the ground is so soft that we need to put in piles (usually concrete, either ready made or poored at the location) that are several tens of meters long.Else our buildings would sink into the bottom within a couple of years. It depend on where the steady sand layers are. To determine that a scan (sondering) of the ground is made to make clear at which heights those sands are.
(http://desnor.home.xs4all.nl/bouwtechniek/heien%20fundering/soort%20grond%20sondering.gif)
For my house they used "on the spot" poured piles. They drive in a metal hull with a machine like this:
(http://www.petersmodelshop.nl/data/articles/images/big/b_260.jpg) (chose a picture of a model because that makes it more clear how it works).
you can simply see this as hammering an extremely large nail into the ground. Here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1_k4yqoN60
when the metal hull is in, they poor in the concrete and remove the metal hull. The concrete sets in the ground. The model shows a ready-made concrete pile.
There are also very small machines like this that fit through the smallest of paths (like 1 meter wide) so we can do it everywhere neccesary.
Mmmm, I was just thinking.....I hope Bencao doesn't mind our little discussion in his game room thread !!!! Sorry Jörg !!!! :)
-
You mean earth-leak detectors. Those are mandatory since 1975 in The Netherlands........
I don't think we're talking about the same thing. There's:
- regular breakers
- ground fault breakers (this is similar to what one has in a bathroom outlet - detects when water splashes on outlet) this has been here for decades as well
- arc fault breaker (this is what I'm talking about) - detects when electricity jumps from one line to another line inside the wall
Yeah, wood burns pretty nicely. And it also doesn't withstand hurricanes and storms very well. Like you mention yourself, the reason why you guys choose wood is simple: price.
Wood is probably more expensive here plus it takes more labour to build with wood. Labour is very expensive here.
I agree about hurricanes/storms, which are not an issue for most of northern north america .. But strongly disagree with wood construction costs. It's SUPER cheap. I've seen an entire house framed in 1 day. Most new construction has the walls and roof prefab'ed. A crane puts up the walls and roof in 1 day. Houses are now build on an assembly line! Pretty crazy. Only the basement is dug out (2+ meters deep) and concrete with reinforced steel is used as the foundation (wood doesn't sit on the ground - it sits on top of concrete walls that are in the ground - it's very common to have basements)
In fact, basements are becoming the norm, no different than any other floor of the house. Even though Canada is HUGE, the population is concentrated in only a few cities. For example, in downtown Toronto, homes begin at 500,000$ and up. These homes are tiny; 110 square meters usually. So getting the extra 50 square meters in a finished basement is a big deal.
Mmmm, I was just thinking.....I hope Bencao doesn't mind our little discussion in his game room thread !!!! Sorry Jörg !!!! :)
Agreed. :)
-
never, absolute interesting! I was replacing the electric lines in my house last year and found some old wire installation in my gameroom as well. There are no documents about the building date of the house, I`ve asked the department. The only date is a declared open fireplace in 1930 something ;) But I found an old magazine magazine from 1870 called "Die Deutsche Hausfrau" (The german housewive). :) The old electrical installation had a kind flexible metal shroud like plumb, but it was more lighter. I removed all this stuff.
For the basement I had no clue that in netherland such building action is needed. I saw this kind of machines last time when a bridge was built.
The architect said when inspecting the house it has a fire resistance of 30-40 minutes before the roof comes down.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pdakSdT1UTQ/T3BEIpQm3sI/AAAAAAAAD_0/vrg0oJUXj40/s320/IMG_0318.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2Gj-FC2HLBM/T3BEGycT3PI/AAAAAAAAD_E/m4q_65veQa0/s320/IMG_0314.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pwjIwgncNW0/T3BEHZ7b2vI/AAAAAAAAD_Q/UgzDTxMu7UE/s320/IMG_0315.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yPHBs36xrWY/T3BEIARR_FI/AAAAAAAAD_o/ZNRfvimmx4w/s320/IMG_0317.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2P7UHeVtk0k/T3BEXgo1k5I/AAAAAAAAEAA/7D6QiZICbSg/s320/IMG_0319.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W-x7pvJI1WA/T3BEYJGDVPI/AAAAAAAAEAM/ecnzWZtVbg8/s320/IMG_0320.JPG)
Floor, skirting boards and sockets are finished.
-
Finally I was doing some cleaning and light installation ;D
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nbgwIr7uwUw/T3BGmPxPCVI/AAAAAAAAEBs/IolOwqVthR4/s320/IMG_0327.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wupy7nHyx1s/T3BGltHrSeI/AAAAAAAAEBg/qtIJp9v5pjc/s320/IMG_0328.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O3gVEravpeA/T3BGlJs-xSI/AAAAAAAAEBU/RrbJnxKmN3o/s320/IMG_0329.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K0yqI-vz-dA/T3BGndF7guI/AAAAAAAAECE/suhu9Szh8Eo/s320/IMG_0322.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QcZuGnaIT60/T3BGSX9P4pI/AAAAAAAAEAw/3lAvV2pkkts/s320/IMG_0323.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-doCWNZYor54/T3BGRlmLP6I/AAAAAAAAEAk/fYj_lKcAaKc/s320/IMG_0322.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYHStV8isAE/T3BGRNyWzoI/AAAAAAAAEAY/Huv6oxWvOL4/s320/IMG_0321.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F0W_F7QFqlY/T3BGTLpKRMI/AAAAAAAAEBI/_DmXDW9eKKs/s320/IMG_0325.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g0xhw1dRlic/T3BGm6m36kI/AAAAAAAAEB4/kI2v_tPn_n4/s320/IMG_0326.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U-fypqeKths/T3BGSk4zMiI/AAAAAAAAEA8/ep5qZKQWjF0/s320/IMG_0324.JPG)
- 200m cable
- 250 cm heater with 5m copper tubes
- 75m constructions wood 16cm x 8cm
- 150m wood 4cm x 2.5cm
- 100m 180mm glass wool thick insulation
- 50m insulation protection foil
- 50m foil for laminate
- 30qm laminat
- 28 pcs sockets
- 4 switches
- 3 halogen lamps
- 25m skirting boards
- 500pcs screws for plaster boards
- 500pcs screws for wood
- 30qm plaster boards
- 30l paint white
- 10 kg wall filler
- 20kg Rotband filler
- 15 tubes white acryl
- 4 pcs paint protection tapes
- 2 pcs adhensive tape
- 30 pcs sanding paper
- 100m data cable
- 30 pcs installation plastics for sockets
-
That looks very nice!! :spaceace: :spaceace:
-
absolutely amazing job, it looks stunning! now fill it with life :spaceace:
-
I Love It ! :spaceace:
-
I Love It ! :spaceace:
+1 :spaceace:
And you know what's the best part of it? Another great arcade gameroom is erected in Europe!! And there are more to come, I'm sure. Who would have thought that 5 years ago?
-
Beautiful ! The ball can be opened with the first dance :):)
-
looks really really nice..
is the floor a laminate, real hardwood, or engineered floor? I can't tell from the pictures.
-
This: (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NwzXcqw6ups/T2xKwM-gGEI/AAAAAAAAD9Y/Z2ikPGnbAPQ/s320/IMG_0310.JPG)
looks like laminate packs...
-
Great work! Even without any arcade machines in it, your room has a relaxing and friendly ambience.
-
I decided on laminate. First I wanted to go with real wood, but this was not in my financial scope. As you mentioned for gameroom it must be hardwood like oak or something. I have in the rest of my house some weaker wood. By only placing a cab I had the first scratches. Tiles was to cold in my impression. Laminate is quite cheap and durable.
-
Okay, the cabs:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k7k1jJVSlvM/T3FfS-BoqAI/AAAAAAAAECQ/mxQptEShllo/s320/IMG_0332.JPG)
I decided to put the Quadros in front of the windows. They`ve little rollers and can be moved quite easy. The OW is not easy to move, nor the paperboy.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QUKAgQsGZJU/T3FfUel2ALI/AAAAAAAAECo/qcUWtEg_lCk/s320/IMG_0346.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bORZODnglF4/T3FfTg8MISI/AAAAAAAAECc/mlmABOUvCx8/s320/IMG_0345.JPG)
My both pinballs.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FIfnKic7tr0/T3FfWOETyuI/AAAAAAAAEDA/j8gpA8mZg4A/s320/IMG_0333.JPG)
The Paperboy from Pieter. This one was fetched from the netherlands.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1d-43KygITg/T3FfpOP-rsI/AAAAAAAAEDw/Rp9eITR1nwY/s320/IMG_0337.JPG)
ebay buy.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DEv0yKQX_vU/T3FfoE5PnXI/AAAAAAAAEDk/6E2I59XCN6A/s320/IMG_0336.JPG)
bougth this one last as a little present for myself when I was finished the 1st phase renovating my house. It`s a 3-in-1 centipede, millipede and missile command. It was built in the states from a company called Team Inc or something
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V47YldSduek/T3FfnQe9PhI/AAAAAAAAEDY/92hrmQQ-sKw/s320/IMG_0335.JPG)
Plain and simple : Operation Wolf.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Qno4ksAih0/T3Ffm33QJRI/AAAAAAAAEDM/k4n8jpLkJGQ/s320/IMG_0334.JPG)
I`m using the Quadros for my PCBs. No hazzle with screen and with two of them I can put 8 PCB.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YJyxccrwznM/T3FfprYjJYI/AAAAAAAAED8/u9-fmZX6sio/s320/IMG_0339.JPG)
My Asteroids project. The Asteroids was given to me from Oliver Knagge. Thanks a lot!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VZM0PdiKXvs/T3FgFO_w6qI/AAAAAAAAEEU/GDPNVkhni80/s320/IMG_0341.JPG)
This one is a italian sit down cab. It was customized from PRC. This one has to go.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TfvRi8V7Z7M/T3FgEm5_NoI/AAAAAAAAEEI/xqwUq3ITKtw/s320/IMG_0338.JPG)
Jukebox with 100 cd changer. Mechanics for changing cd and playing is visible from outside.
I`ve two hellos for selling. The room is overcrowed with them.
So I`m heading for decoration :)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oZVmQuZkAac/T3FgGPeBiGI/AAAAAAAAEEg/5ulrQqQ2Duk/s320/IMG_0350.JPG)
On the ArcadeLiga Meeting I saw this sheet of steel. It was cut by Willi.O. And the meeting we did some polishing. I was thinking to put blue semi transparent acryl for the TRON. And red for the rest. Second thought was to put clear acryl underneath and make some led action in blue and red. Ot just put it one the wall as it is ;).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vyMBOKvhbn0/T3FgG8Yk2VI/AAAAAAAAEEs/AY_PumTkhYg/s320/IMG_0351.JPG)
For the american diner desk :)
-
No shades for the windows ? Would be nice to be able to darken the place in daytime for playing. Now it looks you will have a lot of light in your face from outside while watching the game screens.
-
On the both windows to the street I`ve sort of this ones
(http://ralf-jacobs.de/resources/plissee02.jpg)
For the other both windows I have to make my mind. Any ideas?
-
(http://img.zonwering-rolgordijnen.nl/rolgordijn-groen-uni-std.jpg)
Available in almost any color, sunblocking backside, and relative cheap ;D
http://www.zonwering-rolgordijnen.nl/rolgordijnen-verduisterend (http://www.zonwering-rolgordijnen.nl/rolgordijnen-verduisterend)
-
I made a big "mistake" when i put so many windows/doors in my gameroom, but there´s an easy way to help it (if you want permanent darkens!)
It´s called hardboard (https://www.google.com/search?um=1&hl=en&client=opera&rls=da&channel=suggest&biw=1280&bih=699&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=hard+board&oq=hard+board&aq=f&aqi=g-s10&aql=1&gs_l=img.3..0i10l10.16784l28995l0l29271l17l17l0l0l0l0l381l1959l0j7j1j2l10l0.cpsugrstla.1.), it´s 6mm thick and you can get them natural ("wooden color") and with one or both sides laminated white.
Simply cut them to fit your window, in that way no light can escape around the curtain. (because the hardboard is against the glass)
-
I made a big "mistake" when i put so many windows/doors in my gameroom, ....
I knew it when I saw it. ;) On the other hand, it might not always be a gameroom (almost unbelievable, I know) and then some windows are nice to have. And your idea of placing hardboard in it seems like a good solution.
My gameroom only has one window and it will have a curtain or something.
-
Exactly Erik, thats why i quoted.
If i decides to sell the house one bay, it´s easier when there´s light coming into the room...
-
To be honest, my gameroom is too dark sometimes. For play it is brilliant, but when working on cabs it's not so handy. The halogen spots I installed don't produce enought light to solve this.
So I am thinking about either installing more light, like TL (fluorescent) but I don't really like the looks of that, or maybe installing a light dome like this :
http://www.doehetzelf-dakbedekking.nl/lichtkoepel-dubbelwandig
Of course that would also require a blind to shut it when I don't need the light.....
-
If you only need good light when working on a cab, you might consider a portable light fixture, or a 'construction lamp'. I wouldn't place a dome, it's ugly, especially when it gets dirty, greenish from 'algengroei', etc, and you always have a risk for leakage. Besides, a dome doesn't help you much whwn it is dark or very cloudy.
-
Yeah, good points about the window light. Today another pinball is coming (hopefully if in good condition)
-
Yep excellent points...so that's from the list ;)
-
Jep, I still haven't decided on a solution. First I was thinking that I`m used to play in the late evenings. So first I`ve to play the cabs under certain circumstance before to improve the conditions.
When I was playing the pinballs the light in my old room was reflecting on the glass. Now I have this movable spots. When there is no light at all some pinballs are to dark. Sure led mods and anti-glare glass can be done, but....
-
LED mods.....?? Eeeeeewwwwww......
Apart from the gaming aspect you also have to consider discoloring of the cabs artwork by sunlight !
-
I made a big "mistake" when i put so many windows/doors in my gameroom, but there´s an easy way to help it (if you want permanent darkens!)
It´s called hardboard (https://www.google.com/search?um=1&hl=en&client=opera&rls=da&channel=suggest&biw=1280&bih=699&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=hard+board&oq=hard+board&aq=f&aqi=g-s10&aql=1&gs_l=img.3..0i10l10.16784l28995l0l29271l17l17l0l0l0l0l381l1959l0j7j1j2l10l0.cpsugrstla.1.), it´s 6mm thick and you can get them natural ("wooden color") and with one or both sides laminated white.
Simply cut them to fit your window, in that way no light can escape around the curtain. (because the hardboard is against the glass)
No you didn't!! ;D Your game room looks very nice and unique... Maybe run some contemporary curtain rods around the room and you can close them when you want darkness, and you can get them in multi color... would look awesome!!!!
-
hell, you can even go there naked without anyone caring! :P
Done! ;)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tJRHvfJhWJQ/T5ekgXGfpEI/AAAAAAAAEMg/J3JyHJBvsI0/s320/IMG_0393.JPG)
Yesterday my long awaited furniture arrived. I posted that I`ve made a custom design.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ydHwdb84sjI/T2BzgkZb8uI/AAAAAAAAD4w/1DDE4chTgw4/s320/bank_classic_rot_001.jpg)
This was my design in sketchup and the rest was specified via phone. I wanted a logo, 5 steps (2 times 10cm on each side, the middle one 40cm), 120cm length, color loud red. Later we decided on a red base.
But here some pics
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GH7w_EVBK-U/T5ekfRTItCI/AAAAAAAAEMM/ECNUu-I1FO0/s320/IMG_0379.JPG)
The table base is very robust and has good weight.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X0B0X4QMfWI/T5ekfvO6B_I/AAAAAAAAEMY/M3nbuHJ4c9M/s320/IMG_0380.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q6wDEw3sJNw/T5ekg0ky8DI/AAAAAAAAEMw/L4LWVZihF4I/s320/IMG_0394.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c3Gep8TVF7M/T5ekhEQWOjI/AAAAAAAAEM8/zQjWaBAhQaY/s320/IMG_0396.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gfKlFYUK3EI/T5ekpK4EPmI/AAAAAAAAENI/hcSBUNG1ZFE/s320/IMG_0397.JPG)
The furniture design comes out great in my room. The red is very intense and the logo shines a little bit. I`m totally satiesfied with this work.
The supplier took care about the complete logo and re-vectored my layout to fit it for their production process. This support was beyond expectation.
-
Very cool, i love the logo.... maybe you can post some bigger pictures of the whole room
-
Damn that looks nice!! - i wish i had room for something like that in my gameroom....
-
SWEET ! :spaceace:
-
Wonderful stuff.
-
Looks awesome!
-
Awesome indeed!
-
Okay :)
last saturday I've made my Pole Position roadtrip.
(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/484222_10150807765645942_707190941_9970246_1431228632_n.jpg)
Route was from Ritterhude to Hilversum, Netherland. The goal was to get Pieters Pole Position Cockpit. :)
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/540396_10150808321010942_707190941_9971275_1314941238_n.jpg)
I rented a transporter to have secure and fast transport. I was glad that Pieter put two spare tubes on top. It was great to have this chance. Thanks, Pieter !
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQvrePELw7Y/T7zWjnzWxvI/AAAAAAAAEVo/pSmUedHKOQU/s320/IMG_0573.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M9o9iUqlMOU/T7zWk-Lc43I/AAAAAAAAEVw/cbsk1D7WgQg/s320/IMG_0574.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n4-rVT6DpNU/T7zWl7c53mI/AAAAAAAAEV4/_Mt7AoWAt1M/s320/IMG_0575.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i2YuyGR1408/T7zWpAYuHmI/AAAAAAAAEWI/xFSS6X1oETQ/s320/IMG_0577.JPG)
Finally we placed it my game room. Stephan and Dirk helped me to carry this monster.
Some of my other cabs.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xq7CTtvrqek/T7zWp0HwvKI/AAAAAAAAEWQ/J2iAxiMEw8w/s320/IMG_0578.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HYMPe02NfsM/T7zWrYpm4mI/AAAAAAAAEWY/DaFHlJMlmKQ/s320/IMG_0579.JPG)
Pics with higher resolution
http://bencao74.blogspot.de/2012/05/gameroom-pole-positions-arrived.html (http://bencao74.blogspot.de/2012/05/gameroom-pole-positions-arrived.html)
-
Cool !
-
Very nice.
-
Very nice cab and a great game, congrats. ;)
-
Looks great in your game room, is it already working?
-
Thanks!
First I built-in a normal 19 inch telly, but this was had problems with the sync.
Then I`ve built-in the hantarex tube you gave me. The one with pole position stock frame. The chassis was not working as expected. So I did some measuring of the fuse holder as you told me. Two of three was damaged and had no continuity even with working fuses. So I replaced them. After that I got a picture, but it was somehow distorted. The sync was no problem, but some colors was missing a red line was above and in the middle of the screen. Sometimes the highscore screen goes to pink color. Ive to test this chassis with a known working PCB to exclude PP PCB defect I think.
The second chassis had also defect fuse holder. After even after replacement this one was not working. It has a ticking sound located in the near of the flyback.
There was some progress ;)
-
okay, sorry to hear that, i hope the pcb isn't damaged!
-
Nah, no need. I`ll send some pics of the screen. When you played the game the screen was 100% ok (for half an hour?)? This info could help me to narrow the problem.
-
The monitor with the original frame didn't work at all. But on the spare monitor there was also a red line running across the screen, i wrote down everything i saw/did in this topic:
https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3426.0
-
Yes,
I`m at this point again
https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3426.msg47379#msg47379
So I`ve now the same results like you with the red bars and the messy colors.
-
Just a little update. I had the chance to get a Pole Position Cockpit Topper :)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XsB-mMCJIwM/T85bDnN0M3I/AAAAAAAAEYg/8J4KXCcZpnI/s320/IMG_0639.JPG)
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XsB-mMCJIwM/T85bDnN0M3I/AAAAAAAAEYg/8J4KXCcZpnI/s1200/IMG_0639.JPG (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XsB-mMCJIwM/T85bDnN0M3I/AAAAAAAAEYg/8J4KXCcZpnI/s1200/IMG_0639.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XaEPb0OMevc/T85bKo9opsI/AAAAAAAAEYo/dLyd2b_Zb40/s320/IMG_0640.JPG)
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XaEPb0OMevc/T85bKo9opsI/AAAAAAAAEYo/dLyd2b_Zb40/s1200/IMG_0640.JPG (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XaEPb0OMevc/T85bKo9opsI/AAAAAAAAEYo/dLyd2b_Zb40/s1200/IMG_0640.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ztn7Y5cfugo/T85bQkzmcBI/AAAAAAAAEYw/4oVnyp-C2gs/s320/IMG_0642.JPG)
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ztn7Y5cfugo/T85bQkzmcBI/AAAAAAAAEYw/4oVnyp-C2gs/s1200/IMG_0642.JPG (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ztn7Y5cfugo/T85bQkzmcBI/AAAAAAAAEYw/4oVnyp-C2gs/s1200/IMG_0642.JPG)
It´s from takeman, the same guy who makes the Asteroids CPOs.
-
Here some more pics of my current gameroom setup. I took this pics dec 12 :)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i50VPQ81aDM/UUSTlJoyfOI/AAAAAAAAFbc/phH9yG2YUKs/s320/CONVAR3.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BocYEZR-uZs/UUSTmoM-1LI/AAAAAAAAFbk/9YI1wyuyZjY/s320/CONVAR10.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F4Kka5ICxNo/UUST2c5orhI/AAAAAAAAFbs/556GXqK5IiE/s320/CONVAR11.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cTpEqqgqKGc/UUST4_AxsUI/AAAAAAAAFb0/kIz0-axKvyU/s320/CONVAR4.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CZHZ85DurO8/UUST6QFHduI/AAAAAAAAFb8/76mexx0KPDw/s320/CONVAR5.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozeQt5oQ8vc/UUSUMweEzoI/AAAAAAAAFcM/U8pD_ePCrAw/s320/CONVAR7.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ft-BSediwxc/UUSUNo30o9I/AAAAAAAAFcQ/RBOSUju96ZE/s320/CONVAR8.jpg)
http://bencao74.blogspot.de/2013/03/gameroom-pics.html (http://bencao74.blogspot.de/2013/03/gameroom-pics.html)
-
Very, very nice 8)!
-
Opening Party? :D
-
Yeah....excellent !!!
-
Bencao, looks great. Especially with the fifties sit corner and Coca Cola stuff, plus the pinballs to top it off
-
Super clean! Sooo nice! :-*
-
Late to the party but so far a great thread, the finish of the room seems very high class and you have a great vibe going on in there.
Well done!
-
Very nice indeed. :) It almost made me get up out of my chair and go and work further on my gameroom. :oops:
-
Great!
I especially love the 'table' area in the middle of the room! How cool to eat burgers and drink soda right there, while watching games and listen music! :)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
-
Hey,
thanks for all the kind words :) Indeed it was really fun, to sit there the first time with my gf and enjoy some american food. It was really a great feeling.
I was thinking of buliding a kind of podest for the table area. :)
Second I want to change a little of the game setup. Perhaps a quadro must go and the OW should leave. The OW is a hell to maintain and honestly I don't play it that much.
-
The OW is a hell to maintain
In what way, if you don't mind me asking? I'm just curious. :)
-
OW is also a huge cabinet, it takes alot of space..
-
OW is also a huge cabinet, it takes alot of space..
...plus the game gets boring very fast :-\
-
I own Operation Thunderbolt and fingers crossed, it never let me down.
But it gets indeed boring really fast too if you have "infinite quarters".
-
The ArcadeForge is a great place to be ... trust me, I've been there several times and it was always a blast!! Only things to improve: Stack the juke with cds and covers ;) throw out that f.... up Mrs Pac and throw in another great cab. Thats it. Everything else is brilliant.
Btw: the OW will be in good company and stays in the family. ;) This summer is the "Official Cave Summer of Expansion". I will not hijack this thread of course :D
-
;)
the Mrs. Pacman is now removed. I gave back to Olli. The CRT was burned beyond anything imaginable. The chassis was damaged, too, hence a chassis without a CRT makes no sense ;) Further I`ve found only boots of the Mrs. Pacman that the complete harness must be changed. Then the PSU was 110V midway. No way to configure them like the Atari ones to 220V, so the PSU must also be replaced. Ok, means I`ve only the bare shell ;) The artwork had some severe damage, the CPO was also in bad shape. So I gave it up. ;)
For the Juke I`ve burned dozen of CDs with 4x speed. But no one was playing. So I went to a shop that offer used CDs and buyed orignial ones. The Juke is now stocked with 30 cds.
-
This OW had an issue with the Chassis, so it has from time to time an aiming issue. The gun will not register always or some fields of the screen can't be aimed. Additionally one can't be sure if it`s now a technical issue on PCB, Chassis level or on the optics. There is built-in a optical sensor in the gun, then comes the lens. I`m sure the position of the lense is important, too. After the lense there is the monitor bezel, the mirror and then the CRT screen. All parts must be clean to make the gun register with a nice black level of the screen picture.
Finally there`re so many factors that makes this game difficult to maintain. Last issue was speed slow downs, but this was fixed with a chassis cap kit. :)
Gameplay is ql, but the 2nd level end boss is very hard. After that the game becomes more fun.
Another reason is, that the gun recoil is very loud. It`s ok for gamerooms with a insulation, but this recoil sound can be heard in the whole house ;)
-
Another reason is, that the gun recoil is very loud. It`s ok for gamerooms with a insulation, but this recoil sound can be heard in the whole house ;)
Had the same problem with my OW which was standing in my living room... you could hear the sound across the street when my windows were open... and it's just too big so i also got rid of it..
But i read somewhere there's also a smaller version of the cabinet?
btw, your place is really cool, love all those vetor games..
-
hey,
here`s an update of my gameroom setup. I`ve added the centipede sold by psykick and donald. Guys, it`s in great shape imho :)
http://bencao74.blogspot.de/2013/09/my-current-gameroom-setup.html
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-37rPyEQdIEA/Ujwrx-Qx8HI/AAAAAAAAH3Y/8CYPHRWf4ek/s320/IMG_0113.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A6PVr0XTAPM/UjwryKWwW9I/AAAAAAAAH3c/KoLmQQOJKS0/s320/IMG_0114.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nwQJZouRLK0/Ujwr0U9jScI/AAAAAAAAH3o/i4hfkEQsTdA/s320/IMG_0115.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zlbcPUzghk4/UjwsFmZ8N5I/AAAAAAAAH34/MhY7qsEBS7A/s320/IMG_0116.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NFI7Lpfp9yI/UjwsFLMoeQI/AAAAAAAAH30/Ln4EKXOLUhE/s320/IMG_0117.JPG)
The sidearts have very slight yellow shadow and some minor scratch, I think 2- ;)
CPO has almost no scratched, just a little missing piece at the TB. Colors are good.
Missing wood parts be filled, since the T-Molding shows exactly where to add the filler. I need a marquee. Anyone?
-
Okay, here some findings for the centipede.
Some odd voltages on the ARII Board. 36VAC is jsut 19
5V on the game pcb is just 1,9V
Starting to exchange the connectors now and checking the voltage generator on the game pcb.
Neanwhile see here some pics of my second centipede multigame
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E3TLzBzuaMA/UjwsEu86S3I/AAAAAAAAH3w/MntqnGtUB94/s320/IMG_0124.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ycma5ZFP0Ss/UjwsVRxML8I/AAAAAAAAH4M/eDTPuN6Bj7w/s320/IMG_0125.JPG)
Cheers :)
-
Very very nice gameroom, congrats!