Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: gyruss on November 15, 2010, 11:00:55 PM
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A couple of months ago i bought a Donkey Kong cabinet from paul 50's. As you know the cabinet was quite expensive but because owning a Nintendo cab (especially a Donkey Kong) was a dream of mine i decided to go for it. The cab wasn't working but on first sight it seems to be in reasonable state. It's almost complete and only missing part of the wire harness. It's an early version and houses a 4 board pcb, that maybe still includes the ladder cheat. ;D
Here are some pictures:
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8287/imag3033.jpg)
Part of the side art is still there, but of course i need to replace it.
(http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4089/imag3068.jpg)
The serial number.
(http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/727/imag3034.jpg)
The marque is in good condition.
(http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/290/imag3123.jpg)
Part of the wood on the back door is broken off, that needs to be fixed.
(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/4486/imag3037.jpg)
The monitor showed some jail bars so I'll need a cap kit, still took it out and cleaned it.
(http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9817/imag3035.jpg)
same goes for the power supply.
(http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/5615/imag3039.jpg)
the coin door will also need some work.
(http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6356/imag3127.jpg)
Here is a picture of the CPO, it's in an okay state, but I have to replace the discolored button with an original one or get some brand new ones. But take a look at the damage above the control panel and under the bezel, that needs to be fixed!
(http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2652/imag3122.jpg)
The outside of the cab is still in great state, but there are 2 problems on the frond of the cab.
(http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/6745/imag3126.jpg)
As you see there is still a lot of work to do. So i decided to invest the money i got from selling my After Burner and Operation Wolf in the Donkey Kong and not buying another (non working) cabinet.
To sum things up:
Fix the PCB - Robin is working on it, thanks again, and take your time. :)
Get the missing wire harness part - dokert from klov is making a new one for me.
Fix the coin door - A friend of my brother is going to powder coat it.
Get some new t-molding - Already got some from level42.
Get some new side art - I just ordered some from quaterarcade.
Still to do:
Cap the monitor - I'm asking around for prices, maybe a electronic repair shop next door can do the job.
Fix the wood on the back.
buy new instruction stickers.
Replace the buttons (or find one original Nintendo button).
Repair the chipped wood and maybe apply some fresh paint on the whole cabinet.
Fix the part below the bezel.
Clean the joystick and buttons.
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Nice project, it will give you a lot of pleasure while working on it. Can't wait to see this cab been turned into a beauty.
Here is some nice info about the different board sets found in DK cabs: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=91448.0
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Yes, i can't wait to get it working and let it shine inside my living room. ;) ;D
It's going to take a lot of time (and money), but this topic will motivate me to get things going.
Thanks for the info, would be real cool if i have japanese version. ;D
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Uh, why replace the buttons ? You do know that the original colors are not available anymore.....unless you find some very good used one's....rare !!!
I wouldn't replace them if they are half-decent.
Oh, and it's a cap-kit (from capacitor) ;D ;D
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One button is really discolored, so i'll try to get a better (original Nintendo) version.
I'm all about keeping this cabinet as original as possible, don't worry. :D
Drinking beer and spelling isn't the best combination for me, error corrected. ;) ;D
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Another DK topic, great!
It looks like your board is the same as the one that was in my table
Ckong has this now, but it has a defect :-\
I think its not the japan set, because the game is imported by paul from the US
but i could be wrong ofcourse ;)
Will folow this one closely (as all the resto topics 8) )
Goodluck my friend !
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Cap the monitor - I'm asking around for prices, maybe a electronic repair shop next door can do the job.
big spender! better ask a hobbiest to do the job for ya it will save alot of money.
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looking good
you ordered side art already? Nice!!
I also think you should go to an electronic repair shop.
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Cap the monitor - I'm asking around for prices, maybe a electronic repair shop next door can do the job.
big spender! better ask a hobbiest to do the job for ya it will save alot of money.
It will cost me €75,-. I know it isn't cheap but i don't know hobbiest near me who can do that job.
And i'm not going to try it myself for the fist time on this monitor. But still looking around.. any suggestions are welcome. :D
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thats not so hard i guess, if you got the parts, and youre close to breda, me and my desolderstation are ready ;)
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/mylittlesoldeerbout.jpg)
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Thats an really nice offer, thanks! I might take you up on that. :D :D
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what monitor is inside ? , a 20EZ ?
if so here are the instructions : http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=4&CBT=3 (http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=4&CBT=3)
And here is the cap list : http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=74820.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=74820.0)
for the monitor experts here; is this the complete list we need ?
I am sometimes in the neighbourhood of hilversum for my work, but not so often anymore as in the past
in the past i worked every tuesday in the library in hilversum, but this customer is now attended by my collegue.
anyway, i can see if i have a day of hilversum in the near future for work and let you know, that saves you a trip south 8)
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Not sure if you can order from RS Gyruss, but I would suggest getting your caps there. This way you can get a good brand (f.i. Panasonic) AND get high-temperature versions (105 Degr.C).
It's a bit more work to search them out, but worth the effort IMHO. Esp. the C407 is getting a lot of heat on that monitor and dries out "quickly" so a high temperature version will insure no problems for a much longer time.
Another drawback is that you have to order minimum quantities (5 or 10) of most caps, but even so it may be cheaper than ordering a cap-kit from the US and the shipping costs. (No shipping costs at RS online).
Almost all cap-kit sellers in the US tend to choose cheap brands and low-temperature versions. They work, but for the effort it needs to re-cap a monitor it might be better to do it high-quality right away.
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I made a little compilation from different sources:
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/Sanyo20EZCAPMAP.jpg)
It looks like this is correct, so go to your electronic supplier and get this stuff ;D
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what monitor is inside ? , a EZ20 ?
I am sometimes in the neighbourhood of hilversum for my work, but not so often anymore as in the past
in the past i worked every tuesday in the library in hilversum, but this customer is now attended by my collegue.
anyway, i can see if i have a day of hilversum in the near future for work and let you know, that saves you a trip south 8)
I'm not really sure, I just looked and it's marked as 'Japan EZV 1150522', but i didn't came across EZ20 and the manual isn't there anymore.
Didn't all classic nintendo cabs carry a EZ20? My donkey kong model is: TKG3-UP.
Here are some pictures, maybe andre or another member can confirm it's a EZ20:
(http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/2987/98915322.jpg)
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/6600/89651469.jpg) (http://img27.imageshack.us/i/89651469.jpg/)
(http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/8781/12968177.jpg)
(http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5317/50002669.jpg)
Really nice of you to help me Ettienne. ;D A pickup would be especially great, my house is located 3 minutes away from the library.
But i could, of course, always drop it off at your place. :)
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Not sure if you can order from RS Gyruss, but I would suggest getting your caps there. This way you can get a good brand (f.i. Panasonic) AND get high-temperature versions (105 Degr.C).
Almost all cap-kit sellers in the US tend to choose cheap brands and low-temperature versions. They work, but for the effort it needs to re-cap a monitor it might be better to do it high-quality right away.
Thanks for the tip Andre. I was thinking of ordering a 20EZ Deluxe Kit from Bob Roberts, but this much seems easier and maybe i can split the costs with Eric who also needs some caps.
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I read this :
I don't think I've ever seen a Nintendo game yet that didn't use the Sanyo 20EZ monitor. If you have a Nintendo that is original, chances are you have one.
thats the opening part of the instructions that i posted earlier, so i think is a 20EZ.
Anybody here under the monitor specialists that can confirm this according to the pics gyruss posted ?
RSonline is a good option i guess, but shipping from US is not so cheap i think
is there no electronic parts / hobby shop in hilversum ?
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Yes I read that also, but just to be sure. ;) I'll also make a topic on klov, that will solve the problem.
There is one store that i know of but they aren't cheap and I don't like them.
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A pickup would be especially great, my house is located 3 minutes away from the library.
But i could, of course, always drop it off at your place. :)
I was more thinking of putting the solder equipment in the car if i have a job in hilversum, and then pass by and put the 16 caps in 8)
the thing is i don't know if or when i have a customer close to hilversum...
so if you are in a hurry, then you need to drive south 8)
Its only 1 hour without trafficjams
There is one store that i know of but they aren't cheap and I don't like them.
let me guess "raf" ???
I can ask my local supplier the costs of the list
http://www.electra-breda.nl/ (http://www.electra-breda.nl/) I have good experience with them for many years..
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I read this :
I don't think I've ever seen a Nintendo game yet that didn't use the Sanyo 20EZ monitor. If you have a Nintendo that is original, chances are you have one.
There are also Sharp monitors and the predecessor of the 20EZ, the 20C, like I have in my Japanese Radar Scope (MB) cab.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=80668.0
But yes, the 20EZ is the most common by far.
RSonline is a good option i guess, but shipping from US is not so cheap i think
RSonline is NOT US based but Europe based AND shipping costs are 0, null, nothing, nada, nichts ! I once ordered a single 74LS IC for about 0,84 cents, and they sent it, no problems :)
Love them !
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so if you are in a hurry, then you need to drive south 8)
Its only 1 hour without trafficjams
Wrong. Getting out of Hilversum center takes about 20 minutes. Unless your in rush hour than it takes 30 minutes.
It's about the largest "village" in The Netherlands (second to Eindhoven of course) and getting into it and out of it is a NIGHTMARE !
;D ;D
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@ Etienne: Hahah, that's even better but either way is fine by me, i'll send you a pm about it. 8)
I wasn't talking about raf but i don't like them either (expensive and bad service). ;)
Let's wait how much RS online is asking, I'll email them tomorrow. :)
@Level42: Just got confirmation from a guy on klov that it's indeed a EZ20. Do you argree with that or could it be a 20c?
Edit: another guy tells me that it is indeed a EZ20, so problem solved.
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@Etienne, what is the difference of the 'plus' cap kit from Bob roberts with your list (besides the quantity of cabs of course)? You can find an image of the 'plus cap kit if you google for: Sanyo 20EZ Cap Map Bob Roberts “Plus Kit”. It's a PDF file.
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dont know, will google tomorow, i grabbed the list from the link i posted earlier and counted the cabs and compared them with a picture of the pcb with the locations of the caps wich i also googled, and the amount and cxxx numbers where exactly the same , so i think this is the inventory of the kit 8)
i will look into it tomorow and see if i can find the differences..
@andre, i was not saying that rs is a us company, but i formulated it wrong
gyruss mentioned earlier that he wanted to order a kit from the us , and later he said he will look at RS, so i kind of put it in 1 sentence
what i ment to say is :
1. RSonline is a good option
2. (ordering the capkit from the us) will give you shipping costs from the us to here
hope that clears things up ;)
ps you are right about entering and leaving hilversum..
but i started my work at 6:00 in the library untill 14:00 so at that times it was very do-able
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Ok, i think this is going a little off topic, so i will create a new topic in the technical area with the details as far as i know them.
it will be nice ofcourse that the monitor specialist under us post theyre knowledge there too 8)
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today i received a package from Klov member Dokert.
(http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/6619/imag3158.jpg)
the package contains the parts i'm missing from my wire harness
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7909/imag3159.jpg)
The new cables look great. ;D
(http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/8118/imag3160.jpg)
Dokert even included some bonus material :)
(http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3592/imag3161.jpg)
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cool!, and the pcb is repaired already ?
if so we can try your monitor after capping ;)
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No, the pcb isn't fixed yet, i told robin to take his time.
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What are those balls ?
Great looking harness by the way !
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thats candy! :D
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they look like everlasting gobstoppers :D
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UFYPMLZWxME/TAwbgNqXugI/AAAAAAAAAOM/gHPNGs0uuQo/s1600/wonka-s-everlasting-gobstoppers-165-p%5Bekm%5D714x300%5Bekm%5D.jpg)
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What are those balls ?
http://www.ferrarapan.com/html/lemonhead.html
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Yesterday i got a visit from Etienne aka the Dutch MacGyver. ;) His mission today was to apply a new cap-kit to the donkey kong monitor.
After playing some mario bros and ms pac man, we removed the monitor from the cab and installed his solder and desolder station.
(http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/2474/imag3175.jpg)
Etienne disconnected all the boards from the monitor.
(http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/3483/imag3173.jpg)
and started removing the caps..
(http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8449/imag3174.jpg)
But first it was time to eat..
(http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/9720/imag3176.jpg)
everything went relatively smooth and soon the sound board was finished
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7590/imag3178.jpg)
After the soundboard MacGyver installed new caps on the main board.
(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/7455/imag3177.jpg)
And a couple of hours later a newly capped monitor was placed back into the cabinet. :D
(http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1159/imag3180.jpg)
Not only was it nice to talk to a another arcade enthusiast but he also explained me a lot about monitors, soldering and general technical stuff.
SO THANKS A LOT ETIENNE :spaceace: :spaceace:
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It was my pleasure :)
I hope it works ;D
... he also explained me a lot about monitors, soldering and general technical stuff.
As far as i knew things myself ofcourse, there are many things i still need to learn too... :ghost:
Many thanx for the unexpected gifts !, also my wife thought it was a very nice gesture!
@andre: again i forget to take out my rings :oops:
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Can we take a look at the monitor's screen with the new caps? ;D
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I'm waiting for the pcb to arrive, robin told me yesterday it's working again. :spaceace: :spaceace:
So hopefully next week i'll be able to take some pictures and of course play a few rounds! ;D
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great to see Etienne helped you out with that. :spaceace: :spaceace:
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@etienne: can i book you? how much (in pizzas) do you charge per hour?
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@etienne: can i book you? how much (in pizzas) do you charge per hour?
;D That depends for what you want to book me ;D
I did not even finish the complete pizza... after 3/4 i was full :oops:
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I hope you guys didn't make lame references to a certain Arcade game whilst eating those Pizza's.
although, probably Gyruss did :lol: ;D
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I did not even finish the complete pizza... after 3/4 i was full :oops:
wow, you're cheap! ;D
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The pcb and side art should arrive sometime next week but i'm still missing one more part. Its the blind plate of my joystick, which is broken.
It's listed as part TKGY- 23-14 in the manual:
(http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/8982/joystickkopie.jpg) (http://img130.imageshack.us/i/joystickkopie.jpg/)
Do you guys know where i can get one?
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Hmmm, not even Mikesarcade.com sells it....but he sells complete (repro) joysticks. So I guess he does have them ? Drop him a message I'd say...
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yes, I already looked at his site. i'll send him an email.
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Mike doesn't sell them, I emaild another company who also carries original buttons.. :D
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Mike doesn't sell them, I emaild another company who also carries original buttons.. :D
Uhhh, PM me that company please !
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pm send, but don't buy up all the blue buttons, leave one for me :D :D
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i'd love to get a PM as well :)
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Just got an email from the store, they are out of blue buttons. >:(
A guy on klov also told me he had one for me (for free) but it turned out it was the wrong color.
@Ully PM send..
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Pretty strange that when these are so in demand, no-one seems to do a repro. I mean, that seems to be a relative easy one ?
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this morning i decided to get some work done on the control panel
(http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/5664/imag3184.jpg)
(http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4594/imag3189.jpg)
I first removed the buttons from the panel
(http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2858/imag3185.jpg)
(http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1604/imag3190.jpg)
(http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/2079/imag3191.jpg)
And gave them a nice bath :D
(http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/3026/imag3192.jpg)
After that i removed the old t-molding
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4641/imag3195.jpg)
and replaced with the real flat nintendo t-molding I got from andre. Looks sharp!
(http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/74/imag3198.jpg)
There is some cigarette burn, that's got to go. So i went to the gamma and got myself some sanding paper, but that didn't do the job.
I used 3 different kinds grit but the burn seems to be to deep.. Does anyone got a suggestion how to remove it?
(http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/4857/imag3188.jpg)
(http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/1538/imag3200.jpg)
The joystick was also very dirty so i took the whole thing apart..
(http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/1851/imag3202.jpg)
Removed the rust, cleaned it with wd40 and greased it again.
(http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/4088/imag3204.jpg)
I used the sanding paper to clean the switches
(http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/1572/imag3205.jpg)
And printed a new instruction sticker. This is just for the time being, I'm planning on getting one from mikes arcade (or another source) but have to check if it's the same as the old one. The one i printed doesn't have all the copyright indications and the letters on the old one where all white and not partly yellow. Still kept the old one, so no harm done.
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7756/imag3201.jpg)
And there it, a freshly cleaned control panel. ;D
(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/4921/imag3208.jpg)
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Good job gyruss!
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Well done !
Etienne did you desolder the 2 Schmitt triggers on Gyruss's Centi board ?
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I tried, but they have solder in both sides of the print, so it did not came loose.
the only way without heating the traces too much is cutting all the pins of the IC and then desolder every pin that is still in the board one by one.
i did not want to ruin the traces by heating them too much because you know when you apply too much heat the traces can come loose.
gyruss decided to send the board to robin, because it was also comming late and i needed 1 hour to drive home so we did not cut them out.
the bottom side of F10 is clean though :D
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always great to see what water and soap can do! regarding those cigi burns: there was a guy on klov who did a perfect job on a control panel once (i think it was popeye or dk), but i can'T find the thread. he also used sanding paper along with some other stuff. came out perfectly!!! i'll try to dig it up again later ...
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I've successfully removed heavy cigarette burns from a Galaxian bezel using Micro-Mesh:
http://www.flightstore.co.uk/micro-mesh-acrylic-restoral-kit-kr70.asp
If they're too deep, I don't think you'll get it all out though.
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Looking good!
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@ Level42: I'm going to ask robin to fix the centi problem when i receive my donkey kong pcb..
@ Liquidx: thanks for the hint, can micro-mesh also be used for scratches on the bezel?
@ Ully: I'm wondering what he used besides sanding paper, i guess some kind of polish?
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@ Liquidx: thanks for the hint, can micro-mesh also be used for scratches on the bezel?
That's it's main use. It works really well.
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@ Ully: I'm wondering what he used besides sanding paper, i guess some kind of polish?
sorry, but i can't find that topic anymore. the only thing i remember was that it had a strange name which made me curious to read it ;)
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I just got back from the post office to pickup a package
(http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3476/imag3212.jpg)
It's the pcb, which was repaired by Robin (reprogramming 3 eproms and cleaning all the ic's) :D
(http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/4082/imag3217.jpg)
(http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/262/imag3216.jpg)
I'm really excited, because today, with a little bit of luck, I'll be able to finally play this great game on an original machine. :o
So after installing the pcb and pluggin in all the wires i turned on the machine.......
Yes!! It's working!! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
(http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/4007/imag3224.jpg)
After twisting some knobs on the pcb and the monitor i got a really nice, clear image with bright colors, it looks great!
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/6010/imag3226.jpg)
So many thanks to Etienne for doing the cap kit and Robin for repairing the pcb. I really appreciate it!. :spaceace: :spaceace:
I also cleaned the Bezel, which has the sentence "fix the back" carved into it. :(
(http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/8504/imag3221.jpg)
Now i'm waiting for the side art to arrive, which shouldn't take long because it's already in Dutch customs.
There are still lot's of small things to be fixed but tonight it's time to drink beer and play the damn machine.. ;D ;D
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Great, I'm very glad for you. Cheers.
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yiiiaaaaah !
Im happy the capkit worked out, and ofcourse that your board is working
now its working tell me the level sequence, then we can see if its a japan romset, wich i think it could be , because it does not say nintendo of amerika !
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it does have the latter cheat, the copyright also says "1981 Nintendo" and not "1981 Nintendo of America". Pretty cool! ;D
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Any videos available? ;D
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Hmmm.... Almere<>Hilversum... Should I bring a bottle Bacardi? :)
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Hahaha you're welcome but we only drink beer! ;)
I believe it isn't a Japanese board set because it doesn't have have a different level order. So it must be an early us one.
Maybe i'll make a video when the restoration is done, the outside is still a mess.
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Of course the PCB works.
Master Robin fixed it !!!
;D ;D ;D
Congrats !!!
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I will drive by sometime, but definitivley not tonight... Had a few too many now.... ::)
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looks really clean! Love it!!!! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Nice that everthing is working now ;D
Now it's playing time 8)
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(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f307/ckong65/Donkey%20Kong/InfoBulletinregardingladdercheat.jpg)
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"Money making machines indeed!"
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CK had the same "bug". I remember playing DK on the Atari 8-bit computer the first time and was BAFFLED that the barrels rolled down on me when I was on the ladder.... :D
I was SO much used to the CK I played at a cafeteria...
Was pretty cool cause my friend and me actually discovered that bug all by ourselves....no info about such things then....
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wonderful news that you're finally able to play the game. my two nintendos should arrive next week :)
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if the level order is not 1-2-3-4 1-2-3-4 1-2-3-4 but 1-4 1-4-1-3 1-4-1-3- (confusing)
its US romset 2
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I played on it yesterday evening. Was really nice!!
the colors on the screen were bright, sound was awesome and I experienced the ladder cheat. The cab worked perfectly.
Also fun to find out you can't play it standing up straight, because than you can't see the top of the screen anymore :)
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I played a few rounds and it was a real joy. I especially like the preciseness of the joystick and the sound quality (deep bass). I use to play the game on my 60-1 with an eight way joystick but that doesn't come close to the real deal. The latter cheat makes the game a lot easier though.
I also did some work on the cabinet today, first i cleaned and repaired the cardboard bezel.
(http://img574.imageshack.us/img574/6064/imag3231.jpg)
I used double stick tape to hold the cardboard in place
(http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/4126/imag3233.jpg)
(http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/6809/imag3234.jpg)
after putting the cardboard back in place. i removed the old, damaged t-molding
(http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/8040/imag3209.jpg)
(http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/8473/imag3210.jpg)
and replaced it with some brand new t-molding, a big improvement :D
(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/7506/imag3237.jpg)
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and replaced it with some brand new t-molding, a big improvement :D
that looks absolutely sharp with the replacement t-molding! :shock:
the question is: why does it fit on your cab but not on the president's donkey kong?
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because the wood of my cab's sides is much firmer and broader
mine is a DK Jr and not a DK
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Good job on this one :-*
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because the wood of my cab's sides is much firmer and broader
mine is a DK Jr and not a DK
does that mean the white replacement t-molding is only going to fit on DK cabs, but not on Juniors and Threes?
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I don't know. I red on another forum that it depends on where the cab was built, Japan (normal t-molding) or the USA (offset t-molding) and ofcourse which material the cab was made of (particle wood or plywood)
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.... and the sound quality (deep bass).
what you expect with a rebuild soundboard... (by me ;D)
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Indeed, you did a great job! Hope you'll be able to see and hear it yourself soon..
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yesterday i found another package in my mailbox
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/2023/imag3240.jpg)
It's an extra button i bought from a klov member, this one is also a little discolored but no burn in. :D
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/93/imag3242.jpg)
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Today i went to our local supermarket-post-office-thing to pickup another package. After talking (they told me to come back tomorrow) and searching for 15 minutes, they finally found the package. It took them another 10 minutes to fill in the forms, very bad service as Level42 mentioned. >:( >:(
(http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2871/imag3245.jpg)
But i wasn't complaining (too much) because i knew whats inside the package
(http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5559/imag3246.jpg)
It's the beautiful side art. And on first sight it looks stunning! ;D ;D
(http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/11/imag3247.jpg)
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did they made you pay taxes?
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yes, too much (as always)