Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: DarthNuno on November 14, 2010, 06:48:03 PM
-
Following this Road Trip ... :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/news/NintendoBulkBuy.jpg) (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1911.0)
... let's start to 'work' on this, in order to help Popeye to save Olivia ;)
That cabinet is in that place in my living room ( :roll: :oops: ) since the road trip day... never plugged since, except once at the seller's place. I know there's something wrong. I hope it's only the monitor, not the board...I can't remember in fact :oops:
OK! This time, I want to focus on the hardware part first. So let's plug immediately the cabinet! :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_test_1.jpg)
I can see the game on screen, very dark... and when I put a credit, I can play the game... sounds and moves seems to be ok so far ...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_test_2.jpg)
Ok, it's maybe a simple monitor setting problem? Let's find some pots to turn :P Why not one of these? ::) :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_test_3.jpg)
Bingo! Looks far better now :P :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_test_4.jpg)
Great! I can play the game... everything seems ok :-* :-* :-* but ... I would say 10% of the upper part of the image is compressed :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_test_5.jpg)
...Well it should be a simple problem of V-position and/or V Size I would say? ::) Let's try to find such setting on that (unknown?) monitor...
I can find this :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_test_6.jpg)
Dawn it! No V-Position (or in this case 'V-Center')... only the V-Size! Whatever the settings tried, I cannot have the upper part of the pictures displayed correctly! (Well, I can see it if I extend dramatically the V-Size and modify the sychro with the V-Hold, but in that case... I'm losing the sync of course ...but it's a prove that the board is working well, no the monitor!).
Is there a chance to find a V-Position somewhere on the chassis? Yes, I have to identity the monitor of course!
An other question. Some(most of?) Nintendo boards are sending an inverted picture to the monitor. So I presume it's the case with that Popeye.
Now see that small board :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_test_7.jpg)
On the left, you can see the colored wires coming from the Popeye board, going into that small board, and the signals going out from a connector labeled 'NON INVERT OUT' into the monitor's board.
There's an other connector labeled 'INVERT OUT'. Do you think I may use that last connector to send the signal into a 'regular' 15Khz monitor? ...and so skip the use of a Mike's Color Inverter and sound amp board (http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NININVAMP)?
-
Its great to see image!, this is a good sign, the board looks fine !
this will not need a Mame solution!
congrats so far Bruno!
-
That's ONE single cap you have to replace to fix that problem.
That cap is very near a transistor that gets very hot and thus the cap dries out.
What kind of monitor is it, EZ20 ? or the one before ?
From the top of my head it os C406 or C407. I had exactly the same problem with my Sanyo.
Those Sanyo's are one of the best arcade monitors IMHO.
Also: You shouldn't have adjusted the R, G and B pots but of course the brightness pot instead.
-
OK, I'll check the exact ref. of the monitor, and check (replace) the capacitor(s) ;)
-
Also: You shouldn't have adjusted the R, G and B pots but of course the brightness pot instead.
Yeps, it has been done just after found the 'brightness' pot! :P ... and especially because I love a pure 'black' background ;)
-
No need to check the monitor nrs.
Does it have a metal frame (like two big vertical bars in the back) ?
If so: It's a EZ20.
-
Found it, it's C407. (If it's an EZ-20, which is by far the most likely).
Replace that, and you're GOLDEN ! :D
Your monitor seems to have a nice wide picture...that's still the problem I've got with it....too narrow...
-
Those machines where not very cheap, IIRC, so it's nice to see you had some luck Bruno :spaceace:
-
No need to check the monitor nrs.
Does it have a metal frame (like two big vertical bars in the back) ?
If so: It's a EZ20.
Here's a view of the monitor, in order to identify it :P :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_monitor.jpg)
-
Looks like an EZ20 to me.
Be sure to get a high temperature (105 degr.) GOOD quality cap for that location (C407). It gets very hot because of the heat-sink of a transistor that is placed right next to it.
-
Looks like an EZ20 to me.
Thanks ;) I'll order a capkit for that 8)
-
Looks like an EZ20 to me.
Thanks ;) I'll order a capkit for that 8)
Why a whole cap-kit ? My (new?) motto: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.... :D
Looks to me like all you need it that C407 :)
-
Got my "Monitor repair kit for Nintendo (Sanyo 20-EZV R-B,C) monitors :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit1.jpg)
Let's go :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit2.jpg)
I replace almost everything...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit3.jpg)
..and after cutting the legs and fix them... here we are ... like brand new regarding the capacitors :) :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit4.jpg)
Note that there is a HUGE one, not replaced because not included in the Cap' kit ?!
Ok, now the big moment... power on and :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit5.jpg)
ARGGHHH!!!!
Picture is displayed on *exactly* the half upper part on the screen :evil:
I've tried to turn the 'usual' pots, but it doesn't help. Everything is located in an half part of the screen! What could be wrong now?
During the replacement of the capacitors, on the sheet, for the position C201 it written to put a 100uf @16V, but the original one was a 10uf @ 25V. Do you think my 'half display' problem could be related to this capacitor?
-
C201 needs to be a 10 uf, just checked in different sources..
and in my list its 50 volts
you can always use higher voltages, but the microfarats need to be the same value !
since the original was 25 volts , the 50v that i used in gyruss's 20EZ is fine, i dont know the original values, maybe it was capped before, but if its higher than the 16v that you use, you could have more trouble..
it could very well be that this is your problem
solder the oldone back and check the screen is my suggestion ;)
-
argh, that sucks! Hope you'll able to fix it soon...
-
Looks like an EZ20 to me.
Thanks ;) I'll order a capkit for that 8)
Why a whole cap-kit ? My (new?) motto: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.... :D
Looks to me like all you need it that C407 :)
I told you !!!
-
Looks like an EZ20 to me.
Thanks ;) I'll order a capkit for that 8)
Why a whole cap-kit ? My (new?) motto: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.... :D
Looks to me like all you need it that C407 :)
I told you !!!
Yeps, I know... but when you have access to the monitor board, it's so easy to change all the cap' at this time :-\
In addition, I had other problem on that monitor (size of the picture not stable when monitor is hot... seems to decrease slowly) and so hope to fix them all with all these new cap'
C201 needs to be a 10 uf, just checked in different sources..
and in my list its 50 volts
you can always use higher voltages, but the microfarats need to be the same value !
since the original was 25 volts , the 50v that i used in gyruss's 20EZ is fine, i dont know the original values, maybe it was capped before, but if its higher than the 16v that you use, you could have more trouble..
it could very well be that this is your problem
solder the oldone back and check the screen is my suggestion ;)
Do you think a simple cap' may be responsible for a such problem? I mean the display is cut exactly in the middle of the screen :-\
-
well, if the rest of the caps have the correct value, and one not, thats the first thing to correct if you ask me
if this is causing your problem, that i cannot tell, but i can imagine if some value of some part is not correct, that it might reflect in other parts as well, and then you have strange problems
so the cap is maybe not the problem for itself, but it maybe influences other parts on the way
i would just solder the oldone back, and check that first.
or replace it with a newone with the correct value if you got one around 8)
Remember:
Higher voltage = no problem (sometimes even better)
different uF values and lower voltages than the original = NO GO ! (asking for trouble)
-
Well, let's try to investigate around this famous C201.
After pulling back the monitor from the cab once cabinet, and put all that stuff in 'my desk', here's the famous guy (after 'desoldering' it) :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit_6.jpg)
Let's double check -once again- what I'm supposed to replaced on that C201 location on the instructions sheet :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit_7.jpg)
It's written 100uf @ 16 V ... but it was previously a 10uf @ 25 V ... strange isn't it? :-\
Ok, I don't want to try with the original 10uf @ 25 V, because I still have a 10uf @ 50 V, and as Etienne said that value works, so this will be the first test. So on top, the one I've just removed, and under it, the one I'll put now! :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit_8.jpg)
No need to test something else!!! It works :-* :-* :-* :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit_9.jpg)
The picture quality is great, now I've full screen display :-* ...and it also correct the small 'shaking' / size variation of the picture I got when the monitor is hot :-*
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit_10.jpg)
GREAT! Now I can start to work on the esthetic part of this POPEYE renovation... and in addition, I can start to play/score on it ;D :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_capkit_11.jpg)
:spaceace:
-
Im happy to see this !
It was the right direction in my simple mind ;D
Looking sharp !
Still i would complain / feedback the supplier of your list !
so they can give a correct cap for this one in theyre future sales
funny to see that a minescule part that almost cost nothing can screw up so much uh!
-
Yeps, but one bad point for the instruction sheet coming with that cap' kit! Or maybe my monitor is a special revision and is not 100% like the other Sanyo 20-EZV R-B, C monitor?
Fortunately, I've noticed on my sheet something wrong about the C201, during the capkit operation... If I didn't write that remark, I wouldn't have any clue about the problem and that specific C201 :roll:
Anyway, there is an happy end ;)
-
fabulous, bruno, just fabulous! interesting to see however what big problems such a tiny piece like a capacitor can cause! :evil:
-
Yeps, but one bad point for the instruction sheet coming with that cap' kit! Or maybe my monitor is a special revision and is not 100% like the other Sanyo 20-EZV R-B, C monitor?
Fortunately, I've noticed on my sheet something wrong about the C201, during the capkit operation... If I didn't write that remark, I wouldn't have any clue about the problem and that specific C201 :roll:
Anyway, there is an happy end ;)
I dont think so its a revision issue here, just a mistake of the list
The happy end is the most important, but we have learned a lesson here;
Always look whats comming out of your board.. nomatter what the caplist says, like here its put together by humans, and humans make mistakes..
Anyway, im happy for you that you got it working, thats the most important :spaceace:
-
Amazing they have that mistake in that sheet still, I mean the 20EZ is a VERY common monitor....
Well done Bruno ! :D
-
great, and nice picture quality too. I can't wait to see how mine turned out...
-
The 20EZ is one of the best "old" monitors IMHO.
-
Back on this!
After almost three years ( :shock:), I finally take a moment to look back at this cabinet -which is still running fine- but who cries every time I play it, asking me : "For the love of God, please finish me!". ;D
Ok,ok... so as you can see the CPO instructions sheet is damaged...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_1.jpg)
Closer :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_0.jpg)
Let's remove the CPO... ok it's just a piece of paper/thin cardboard applied against the plexi on its back :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_2.jpg)
although the instructions sheet is sticked on the edges only, the entire sheet is literally glued to plastic, thanks to all these years, strongly stuck between 2 parts... and so it cannot be removed by hand. I'm using a product to remove 'wall paper'. It works great!
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_3.jpg)
Now let put my 'laser copy' repro instead...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_4.jpg)
Yeah!
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_5.jpg)
On location...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_6.jpg)
Just a simple detail, but looks far better isn't it? :-*
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_7.jpg)
Next step... remove this... 'sticker remains'?! :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_cpo_fix_8.jpg)
Believe me (or not), but I tried everything I know to remove this... with no success! :evil:
Tried :
- simple soap
- water
- my usual 'sticker remover' product
- 'Wall paper' remover
The only progress I can do on this is ... using my finger to scratch... it takes an eternity (besides being painful for my nails) to remove only few 'pixels' of it!
Any idea? :-\
-
Have you tried nail polish remover?
-
Have you tried nail polish remover?
Not yet, but I presume my 'sticker remover' is the same kind of product?
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/starwars/scot2.jpg)
my usual sticker remover product I'm using since many years
Anyway, I will give a try.
-
is it the bezel you want to strip this residue off ?
if yes, is it a glass bezel, or a plexi ?
if its plexi i would not use nailpolish remover, i think that it will damage the plexi...
nailpolish remover has acetone in it, and acetone is used to weld acrylic, so it melts acrylic....
-
There is nailpolish remover without the acetone but i don't know of it's any different of the sticker remover product.
-
Have you tried a hair dryer? It heats the glue so the sticker should come off more easily...
-
Have you tried a hair dryer? It heats the glue so the sticker should come off more easily...
Don't use a hair dryer. If your bezel is plastic it will easily boggle and when it is glas the paint on the backside will develop microfractures which will only be visible in a few years or blisters when the heat gets to much.....
Believe me, one moment you will be happy, blowing your dryer, the next instant bam... Blisters :( i've seen it first hand :'(
As far as I can see, it is paint masking tape, this is a water based glue... Just stick some wet/moisted toilet paper on top of it, wait a while and rub it off with your fingers, in case the bezel is plastic. With glass you could use a razor blade.
Altough it is no fun... Your nails and fingers are the best tools to remove stickers like this without scratching plastic bezels. :lol:
-
...tried other cleaning products... without any success!
I'm finally going back to the only thing that is doing something... my all-time/famous sticker remover :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_remove_sticker_1.jpg)
...and a free tool, the nail of my thumb! :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_remove_sticker_2.jpg)
When you apply this product on a sticker, this one absorb the liquid, and the magic happens...
The problem in my case is : the sticker applied on the bezel is an adhesive tape, applied 25 years ago on this bezel! ...and they left the cabinet/bezel is the middle of the Sahara desert these last 20 years at least! The sun has dried the tape to the bones! There nothing, no air, not even an electron, between the tape and the bezel!
So, no product at all can penetrate the tape! If my 'sticker remover' product does a ultra mini percent of the job, it's only because the product attacks the tape on its tiny side... so I have to remove pixel per pixel the tape... oh, here's the 'pixels' removed so far after a 45 minutes session! :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_remove_sticker_3.jpg)
I don't publish a picture of my thumb... too ugly to see something so dirty! :?
Anyway, I think an other 30 minutes session should be enough to finish that painful/crazy job!
-
yeah, paper painters tape is a PITA !
I hate that tape when its on something longer than a week...
-
We are so proud, keep up the good work. :lol:
-
(http://ih0.redbubble.net/image.10434195.9580/fc,550x550,white.jpg)
Sorry, could not resist ;D
-
;D !
-
Got you, Brutus! :D
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_remove_sticker_4.jpg)
:twisted:
-
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
-
...and finally back on that one...again! Sure that popeye looks great from the front, but once removed from the cabinets row, see the right side art :oops: :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_nintento_side_1.jpg)
...and the left one :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_nintento_side_4.jpg)
OK, appart a good cleaning the left side art is pretty ok, with only a very small part of the sticker missing (bottom/right corner). This doesn't justify to apply a new sticker. Just a good cleaning and voila :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_nintento_side_5.jpg)
The right sticker is too damaged, so I ordered a repro :
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_nintento_side_2.jpg)
Damn, I didn't paid attention when ordered it : it's not trimmed?! :oops:
Let's do my best...
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_nintento_side_3.jpg)
Now applied! :arrow:
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_nintento_side_6.jpg)
Not too bad! 8)
Now the last thing that could be done would be small touch up onto the cabinet itself, where the laminate/blue paint is gone...
So here it is, back again in the row... well, the sides are hidden but I know the cabinet looks great now! ;D
(https://www.dragonslairfans.com/popeye/popeye_nintento_side_7.jpg)
:spaceace:
-
Great work, Bruno...awesome! :spaceace:
-
Very good looking cab Bruno
Good job :spaceace:
-
Congratulations, Popeye is a beautiful arcade machine