Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Technical Area => Topic started by: gyruss on March 08, 2010, 11:15:09 AM
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I got a quick question, I need a transformer to make my mrs Pacman cab (110volt) work on the european powersuply (220volt).
I have seen a couple of transformers which have different Watt volumes(?): 50, 100, 200 and 1000 watt.
Which one do I need? I just bought the 200 watt one, will this do?
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yes.
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Great, thanks!
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Isn't there a way to switch the original power supply to 220-240VAC ?
I know the Galaxian can so why wouldn't a (Ms.) Pac ?
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Thanks for the tip, I'll look it up in the manual and will let you guys know.
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I already checked the manual. There is some doubt. The parts list mention a 115V transformer.
But the schematics show there is both a 220V and a 110V tab on the transformer.
Of course my Galaxian spent it's entire life in Holland so maybe they shipped it with another tranformer but I doubt it.
Have a look at the transformer on the bottom of the cab and see if there are some indications on the transformer tabs. A pic may help. If there is a 220V tab, it's as simple as moving the wire that is now connected to the 110V tab to the 220V tab.
And of course cut off the US plug and install a European one.
Galaxian and Pac Man should be completely equal, Ms.Pac (and Galaga) is of course a little bit later and may differ, but from what I remember the power supply set-up is basically the same.
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Damn, you're fast. :o
I'll check it tomorrow, and if it doesn't work thats oke because i've already ordered the transformer.
Thanks for your help, again! :)
Btw I just checked your topic about using a tv as a monitor on Arcadecontrols.com, very interesting and usefull read!
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will this one also do? 100 Watt?
http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/MTk4OTQ2OTk-/Stromversorgung/Netzgeraete/Festspannungs_Netzgeraete/Spannungswandler_MW_100.html
(http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/MTk4OTQ2OTk-/Stromversorgung/Netzgeraete/Festspannungs_Netzgeraete/Spannungswandler_MW_100.html)
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I'd say that one is too small.
But as mentioned there probably is no need for them.
I hope to move in the Ms.Pac today (and move out the Meteor) so I can have a look at it.
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if the machine is operating at max 100 it could work, but than again, you will be asking 100% of the capicity of the transformer and i suggest to take some over capacity, the 200W variant will be better i guess
even better , if there is a way to switch the power supply to 220 like Andre says you dont need a transformer
remember your pleiads, there was a switch jumper cable..
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3361/3329135828_b7f42db6b8.jpg)
it could be that there is no jumpercable, but just more connections to the primairy side of the transformer
I hope for all the "new pacman / mrs pacman owners" that a switch option is there 8)
but i am sure Andre will find this out ;)
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Well, I _just_ brought back the Ms. (during a Feyenoord football match, I almost forgot about that, but it was _during_ so very quite near the storage location :D I was away again well before the end of the match (sadly they played 1-1).
Anyway, I just examined the transformer and we are out of luck (if you can actually say that when you own a Ms.Pac):
The transformer has a range of tabs, but the voltages are between 90V and 117VAC........so there is no way to switch this to 220V.
So this will either require a 220 to 110V transformer OR finding a transformer with the right secondary voltages (very hard to find) or a "Euro" Midway transformer. Also hard to find and shipping transformers is pretty costly because of the weight.
All in all, the step-down (220-110VAC) transformer is actually the best option in this case. I do suggest getting something above 150W.
I didn't find any power data (yet) on a Ms.Pac cab but the usual figure is around 120W so a 100W transformer is simply too low and having a little extra is a guarantee that the transformer won't be constantly running "on it's toes".
I will be building the extra transformer into the cab as I hate extra external transformers "floating" around. I may even still have an extra one around....Gyruss where did you buy yours and what did it cost ?
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I will be building the extra transformer into the cab as I hate extra external transformers "floating" around.
that's what i'm planning on doing as well. usually there still a lot of space at the bottoms of cabs, so a step-down converter should fit in there easily!
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I have a 200 W here, and i bought it in 2001 so it was still guilders
i belief it was 85 guilders at that time,
here they are selling simular, for 35€
http://www.allekabels.nl/Omvormer/1740/1075950/Omvormer-230V---110V,-200-Watt.html (http://www.allekabels.nl/Omvormer/1740/1075950/Omvormer-230V---110V,-200-Watt.html)
the only difference in mine is that i can also turn it around (so input 110V and output 220V)
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or here: http://www.omvormer.nu/content/omvormers/230_volt_naar_110_volt
I use the BN100887 for my DK.
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I bought this one:
http://www.allekabels.nl/na/0/1076001/Omvormer-230V---110V,-200-Watt.html
€ 16.95 and i got it two days later, works great.
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Wow that one looks a lot smaller than the other's. Are you sure it's specced at 200W ? (Did you check on the device itself ? Could be an error on the site.)
Does it run warm/hot ?
Oh and, It's MS. Pac and not MRS. Pac ;)
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I played the game on friday for 3 hours, and it didn't get very hot, just warm.
I'll check the device itself tonight and will let you know.
Yes, I know it's ms pac man, just finished reading the story why they changed it from miss to ms. ;D
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I bought this one:
http://www.allekabels.nl/na/0/1076001/Omvormer-230V---110V,-200-Watt.html
€ 16.95 and i got it two days later, works great.
very nice, only not grounded...
it works , sure, but i would go for a grounded one instead
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very nice, only not grounded...
it works , sure, but i would go for a grounded one instead
Indeed, that is strange. ??? Grounded one is the way to go.
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Mmmm, if your wall-outlet is ungrounded, there's very little use in a grounded step-down.
I grounded everything in my Gameroom, but according to regulations it's not necessary in Holland (because there are earth-leak protectors on ungrounded groups).
Grounding is only required if you're going to run your Ms.Pac in a "wet" area like your kitchen or bathroom ;)
Also, if you insist on grounding the machine you can simply run the ground wire directly to the ground point inside the machine.
O wait I see there's an ungrounded plug on this one. You could replace that with a grounded plug and factory attached 3 core wire and run the ground-wire to ground connection inside the cab.
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There is no water in my gameroom, so I guess I'm safe to use this one. :D
Pfff, all this technical talk makes my head spin, I just want to play those games ;) ;)
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Hey playing games is serious business ;)
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There is no water in my gameroom, so I guess I'm safe to use this one. :D
Pfff, all this technical talk makes my head spin, I just want to play those games ;) ;)
we just don't want that you are the conductor between the ground and the metal part of the joystick in case of a short ;D
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I just checked, the converter is 200 watt and my wall-outlet is indeed ungrounded.
So is it safe to use the one I got?
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Yes sir.
Pretty amazing that small thing is 200 Watt.
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great, thanks! What would I do without level 42? ;)
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I bought this one:
http://www.allekabels.nl/na/0/1076001/Omvormer-230V---110V,-200-Watt.html
€ 16.95 and i got it two days later, works great.
Ordered one too. I want to reserve the one I already have for my future work-bench.
Thanks for the tip !
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You're welcome.
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Well turned out I cancelled the order very quickly. I received an e-mail from Robin (the other arcade collector from my town ;) ) that he had a 220V->110V transformer for me, and even included a picture:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100723/DSCN7789/web.jpg?ver=12697335970001)
I was impressed: A real DUTCH built transformer by "De Drie" company from Ede. Now where would you find something like that nowadays ?
[EDIT] Well, turns out they are still alive and kicking: http://doesburg-bv.com/index.php?page=leveringsprogramma
Sometimes, it's surprising that not EVERYTHING comes from China.....
Looks like it's built in '88 close enough for me ;)
It's specced at 180VA so that's plenty for the Ms.Pac cab. Look at my Ms.Pac thread for more...
Thank you very much for this very nice transformer Robin ! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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That is indeed a very nice transformer. The company is situated very nearby my town, and as I also need a few transformers, I just incquired with them for a bulk price of 10 pieces.
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or here: http://www.omvormer.nu/content/omvormers/230_volt_naar_110_volt
I use the BN100887 for my DK.
another old stepdown converter thread ;D
@erik: how did you fix the converter inside your cab? did you simply put it in there without screwing it to the bottom somehow? because that's a problem i'm facing with my current converters. you can't fix them to the bottom and when you move the cab around you might forget about that and the converter could destroy stuff inside the cab ... :'(
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I didn't yet install converters. I have some external converters lying around which I use. But when my games go into the gameroom, then I will place internal converters in them.
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Ully, to install stuff that "cannot be installed" I always use stuff like this:
(http://image2.showyoursound.nl/Robi-One3/demping04.jpg)
However, the sort I use is narrower between the holes and the holes are a bit further apart from eachother. The version I use can be broken between two holes by bending it there a lot of times/cutting it with some serious pliers.
The stuff is flexible enough to shape it the way you want but strong enough to stay firm and tight. If you put this stuff over a regular (cased) convertor you can screw it to the bottom of the cab.
I think this is usually called "spijkerband" here which would translate to "nail-band"....
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thanks andré! i didn't know that stuff before, it's called "lochband" in german. i might go with that ...
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Bingo !
This is the kind I use:
(http://www.oconda.org/media/so/soErico_ABP12G_20304678707.jpg)
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I know this is a really old topic but I have a question, does it matter about the frequency differences? Or is it just the voltages that need to be converted?
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In practical application it doesn't matter and there is nothing (or extremely little) you can do about it.
The US uses 60hz, Europe 50hz. And that's what is coming out of your wall outlets, no way you can change that. (Well you can in theory with a lot of electronics but since it is not needed...)
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Okay, I just thought that with such sensitive, often temperamental, boards it might've been an issue. 😳
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There is no AC "behind" the power supply anymore so the PCB doesn't notice the difference.