Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: Superully on December 29, 2009, 12:26:29 PM
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from my (DEATH) RACE FOR PAPERBOY (http://https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1060.0) roadtrip i've brought home that fantastic atari system 2 arcade game. however, as you can see on the following pictures, the game is pretty much beat up and needs a lot of love and care :-*
this is the game still at stefan's place
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4225186518_bb8b04d9d2_b.jpg)
the control panel - ouch! :'(
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4224417333_2bb2a5a40f_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/4225186780_9ae101b5ce_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2687/4224417627_81ae83aca1.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4224417415_0672b85ea6.jpg)
broken off corners around the control panel
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4007/4224417985_33731609d9.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4225187432_8bbbffca68.jpg)
the t-molding trenches have been filled up with some rough material
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2761/4225187684_e693827010_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2595/4224420249_986d9bf88d_b.jpg)
a security bar has been rudely screwed to the cabinet
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2709/4224417819_6563b174cf_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2765/4224417927_50805da7ff.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2595/4225187288_473acb4b48.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2541/4224418781_771516a74a_b.jpg)
no sideart at all on the right side of the cabinet
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2485/4224418371_24669a9c07_b.jpg)
the left side - the sideart is torn and incomplete
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2720/4224418191_0bb5fa9e4d_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2499/4225187486_45ceeac8b2.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4225187624_b90830db2c.jpg)
the registration sticker on the back of the cab
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4225188370_b5130da101_b.jpg)
a registration plaque from the former operator is attached on the front to the right right. i think i'll just leave it there, it's part of the machine's history!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2639/4224418627_7dcae2b926_b.jpg)
inside, the original backdoor sheet - YES!!!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4224418877_4389ff99a8_b.jpg)
also inside, the repair card for the machine
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2725/4225188176_c475e3db47_b.jpg)
have a look, according to the card the last inspection following the checklist took place in May of 1992. once i'm finished, i will have to add my name to that list ;)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2519/4224419199_a64b626308_b.jpg)
the backdoor itself has some damages to the black vinyl which will of course get replaced
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2701/4225183226_c6b6102842_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2625/4225183306_9880473ebf.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2710/4224414167_6c488557b7.jpg)
screwed to the inside of the backdoor is a huge metal plate where the pcbs are normally attached to
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2581/4225183546_7579ccff7f_b.jpg)
as you can see: RUST!!!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2691/4224414363_abbcd4f5b4_b.jpg)
removing the leftovers from the rubber foam
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4224414525_1feccb8d48_b.jpg)
of course, the metal plate is too big for the usual anti-rust bath, so i'm putting "rust-bath" paper towels on it
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4225183872_6051fc587a_b.jpg)
much better!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2497/4224414745_60345ab917.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2604/4224414875_98d3e051a6.jpg)
protective tape for the serial number
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4224414933_8fe3742d20_b.jpg)
and my "weapon of choice": zinc-alu-spray
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4225184280_3f77592242_b.jpg)
spraying time!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2770/4225184396_b929d46aaf_b.jpg)
up next: wood and vinyl jobs!
to be continued ...
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That looks already nicer !
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the restoration continues ...
... at the very bottom of the cab
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2748/4224419481_d433417cf4_b.jpg)
as you can see, splintered wood and rusted leg levelers
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2686/4225188506_717bde5eb1_b.jpg)
new vs. old
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4224419399_dfebd6ba6e_b.jpg)
i'm moving upwards from the bottom to the top :arrow:
the lower front part to which the security bar has been screwed to also suffers from damages to the wood
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2485/4225188842_2fba99f3fa_b.jpg)
in order to remove the security bar, i have to remove the entire piece of wood. the screws are hidden "deep in the wood" and have to be uncovered first
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4224419719_2eaf408773_b.jpg)
the lower piece of wood removed - behind: spider webs and a lot of dirt!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2748/4225189092_77ffafbc32_b.jpg)
moving one piece up: the wooden coin door frame (screws already uncovered)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2638/4224419955_089df0fe4f_b.jpg)
holes filled ...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2793/4224415289_7745579394.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2698/4225184528_38d41d76f8.jpg)
... and sanded down
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4225185012_3381d494bc.jpg) (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2704/4225184904_338f78cc2b.jpg)
all the pieces of the wooden front BEFORE
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4224420035_9c252818e6_b.jpg)
and AFTER (new vinyl applied) :spaceace:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2600/4224415721_ce8ba31e29_b.jpg)
before continuing with the wooden pieces, the entire vinyl and paint is being removed
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4224420119_b568ba14f7_b.jpg)
bare and naked
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2663/4225189476_49c1328e4b_b.jpg)
the inner parts where the control panel rests on are also damaged. removing them is not that easy, because they are glued and stapled to the cabinet
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/4225185324_6f1b4d4469_b.jpg)
DONE! have a look at all those staples and holes :o
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2492/4224416157_a38c605573_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2779/4224416083_2e6a7f7b28_b.jpg)
the whole structure of the piece is wobbly, so a lot of glue is needed
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4225185606_007b818346_b.jpg)
but in the end, the original pieces have been saved :)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4224416945_1c631c4ca9_b.jpg)
other "internal" pieces of wood also need the full resto treatment - here's just an example
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4225185826_1840c643b1_b.jpg)
after a lot of work they look like new!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4224417067_1e1b8a8a0e_b.jpg)
now to the cabinet itself - the control panel part. corners repaired, holes filled ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4225185704_97bdc85aa1_b.jpg)
... and sanded down!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2509/4224416625_1ec79fff5c_b.jpg)
full frontal control area view - note that the trenches for the t-molding have been "dug out" again
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4225451706_8d0aece617_b.jpg)
on to a difficult job: cutting new vinyl for the inner cabinet sides. in order to do so i'm using the same method i've used for my toobin' restoration: copying the shape needed on a piece of paper
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/4224683541_442a0e15ed_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2651/4224683461_792834071c_b.jpg)
making preparations for a short spray job
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2678/4225452070_2d1b3e7a16_b.jpg)
i'm using black spray paint in order to cover up any imperfections that might occur when cutting / applying the oddly-shaped vinyl
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4224683187_6355e80e7c_b.jpg)
ladies and gentlemen, the results are in ;D although there's a very small trench between the old and the new vinyl on that picture (highlighted by the flash), it's barely visible in "real life", has been touched up a little bit further with a black pen and will be covered mostly by the control panel once this gets reinstalled! i'm extremely happy with the result :-*
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4225451472_6b48577a1f_b.jpg)
the cabinet is now ready for its new exterior look
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4225186024_83b5432fc8_b.jpg)
after three layers of wood primer (sorry - bad picture!)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2560/4224417137_8fbc1878d8_b.jpg)
up next: white vinyl and sideart application!
to be continued ...
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I love this game ;D. I can remember playing this game once when I was very young, my other memories of this game are of the Sega Mega Drive version of this game. Although it's nothing compared to the real arcade game, it was still a pretty faithful conversion.
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I've got a paperboy that's is considerable better shape.
Don't want much for it, maybe it can be used as a donor to this cab, seeing you're allready started the restauration.
But then again, you're from the south of Germany iirc.
The road-trip would make it too expensive I'm afraid.
Looking good that resto. Keep it up.
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Woooww Ully, fabulous job :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Wow... this cab' must be very special for you... I mean it won't be a quick restoration, so many things to repair. Great job so far :P
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
have a look, according to the card the last inspection following the checklist took place in May of 1992. once i'm finished, i will have to add my name to that list ;)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2519/4224419199_a64b626308_b.jpg)
YES ! You'll definitively have to add your name on that paper 8)
:spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Great job so far. Looking forward to seeing the completed cab.
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the restoration continues ...
after rolling on the white primer, i'm going to cover the sides with white vinyl. i had to make a choice between the original expensive white vinyl with a slight structure (which i would have had to order from the usa, because i haven't been able to locate that type of vinyl in germany yet) or the thin plain white cheap version. after a long struggle with myself (and my purse) i've decided to go with the latter for various reasons (besides the monetary aspect):
(a) the atari games sideart which is going to be applied on top doesn't have a structure either, so it matches the white vinyl underneath
(b) the sideart itself covers a huge part (i'd say 80 %) of the cabinet's side, so for most part you wouldn't even see the structure
(c) the cabinet's sides aren't spectacular compared with other cabs, which means people won't be looking at them in detail
enough talking, here's what's going to be used :arrow:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2706/4236833640_219ab98969_b.jpg)
during application
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4236833804_73b378d5bb_b.jpg)
a rough cut
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2626/4236057473_62b609a087_b.jpg)
the sideart reproductions from gamestencils.com go on top
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4236057435_e89899f08a_b.jpg)
RISE - PAPERBOY 8)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2790/4236057673_65c0a98eb7_b.jpg)
the premask stays on until the restoration is finished (although it's damn difficult to resist)!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4236057571_60456464a4_b.jpg)
putting together the cabinet's front
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2703/4236056919_9296480d77_b.jpg)
the control panel area BEFORE ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/4225185324_6f1b4d4469_b.jpg)
... and AFTER (t-molding already installed) :spaceace:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2772/4236057769_81c9a0b33e_b.jpg)
the entire control panel area - clean and shiny, almost completely original parts with new vinyl
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2673/4236833456_92d706e5d5_b.jpg)
full frontal view
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4236833736_0122bb3d59_b.jpg)
BEFORE
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2709/4224417819_6563b174cf_b.jpg)
AFTER
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4013/4236057151_24002468a3_b.jpg)
i haven't said that i'm thrilled in a while, therefore: I'M THRILLED!!! :)
up next: player controls reconstruction (something i've been pushing back until now because i have no idea whether i'll be able to get all the pieces together again ;))
to be continued ...
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looking good ully! - keep up the good work!
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Congratulations, you're doing a fantastic work here. Paperboy is a fun game and yours will look like new, I'm sure.
Matteo
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Thats looking slick Ully , good job !
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This really is a great restoration project. The cab will look very minty when done ;D
What kind of black vinyl did you use for the inside and the front panel? Where did you buy it?
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Man.. seeing these just get me wound up wanting to redo or even do a complete assembly of a machine...
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When i gave "a first look" to the photo of the machine in the warehouse i thought: "what the Hell Ully is doing?! Buying trash? ;D
... but now, i see why you are SUPER Ully! Want more! :pac: :pac: :pac:
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Nice to see! I also remember playing that in the arcades as a kid. Keep working!
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before i post more pictures of the restoration process, i had to turn the game on to test the rebuilt controller (more of that soon). here's what i got on the screen:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2682/4319220128_318e62443f_b.jpg)
as you can see, the picture is there, but it's turned upside down. haven't been able to locate a dip switch that flips the picture. any suggestions?
furthermore, stefan already told me that there was a problem with the pcb when i bought the game. sometimes it freezes, sometimes the biker sprite disappears, sometimes the game jumps back into the menu during gameplay.
so i turned on the test switch and here's what i got (also upside down):
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4318486469_4bc29f4c86_b.jpg)
RAM ERROR AT 3P :'(
i guess the best option would be to have those rams (and roms?) replaced. has anyone had experience with burning new chips? anything i have to look out for?
give me some input please :)
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Are the RAMs socketed ? If so switch over the one on 3P with another one and run the self-test again. Look what happens. If the error moves to the new spot, it's a bad RAM chip. If not....it could be the socket or trace problems. But it can also be buffer chips..
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just to make sure that i' reading the manual correctly. there are 8 identical types of RAM (6116P-3) in the "third row" of the board. have a look :arrow:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2745/4318892657_71cae8218d_b.jpg)
if i count correctly from left to right, the one that produces the error is labeled as 3P/R in the manual and should be the sixth ram from the left (i've highlighted it in red in the following picture).
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2784/4318892905_27cdbc31e2_o.jpg)
i have then exchanged this ram with other rams from the same row, but nothing changes: RAM ERROR AT 3P. just to make sure i'm not misreading this: 3P is the position of the ram and NOT the type of ram (because they are all tye 6116P-3), right?
ok, your turn now ... ;)
p.s.: i've just realized that i've made a GIGANTIC reconstruction error with the controller. this means unsoldering wires, disassembling major parts of the controller and starting almost from scratch. damn, just because i didn't look closely at the pictures i took for reference before reassembling. what a beginner's mistake! >:( :'(
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Like Level42 said, if swapping gives the same problem: check all the traces coming from/going to that particular chip at position 3P (continuity test with a DMM).
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before i post more pictures of the restoration process, i had to turn the game on to test the rebuilt controller (more of that soon). here's what i got on the screen:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2682/4319220128_318e62443f_b.jpg)
as you can see, the picture is there, but it's turned upside down. haven't been able to locate a dip switch that flips the picture. any suggestions?
give me some input please :)
what about this.....
1. dissasemble the monitor from the cab.
2. assemble the monitor in the cab, but flip it 180 degrees.
I'm 100% sure this solve the "upsidedown" problem ;D
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The selftests by Atari always indicate the _position_ of the chip IT THINKS is bad. (Think about it, it wouldn't be much use if it said a certain _type_ of chip was bad, while there are multiple of them on the board, which is almost always the case with RAM and ROM.
So, yes that's the correct RAM chip you indicated. :D
That controller looks even worse than the SW yoke ! :shock:
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what about this.....
1. dissasemble the monitor from the cab.
2. assemble the monitor in the cab, but flip it 180 degrees.
I'm 100% sure this solve the "upsidedown" problem ;D
i marked the orientation of the monitor once i had taken it outside the cab, but could it be that i switched it? i'd say NO, but who knows? is it possible that i made TWO rookie mistakes within one day? why not? ;)
that monitor and the chassis were a pain in the ass to move, but better an easy fix like turning the monitor than something else. i'll keep you posted. thx for the input :spaceace:
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The selftests by Atari always indicate the _position_ of the chip IT THINKS is bad. (Think about it, it wouldn't be much use if it said a certain _type_ of chip was bad, while there are multiple of them on the board, which is almost always the case with RAM and ROM.
So, yes that's the correct RAM chip you indicated. :D
guess i'll have to check for broken traces and continuity then? never done that on a board before, anything i need to know? where to start with it, where to end?
That controller looks even worse than the SW yoke ! :shock:
don't know about the SW yoke, but this thing took me HOURS to reassemble and there were points when i thought i'd never get it back together again (the wires, the bearings, the tension springs, ...), but i think i'm there now. need some screws to replace the rusted old ones though. where can i order smaller screws? the home depots don't carry sizes like that!
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First check: Put the PCB on it's side in front of you and support it with something so it can't flip over.
Now put your DVM in diode test. Hold the left lead (doesn't matter red or black) on the pin of the IC and the right lead on the actual soldering island on the PCB. It should of course beep right away. Check all the pins of that IC.Also visually check the socket.
If that is all OK, you will have to trace every track of every pin to which it should be going acc. to the schematics and test like-wise if the tracks are still 100% conducting.
Also remember: The self-test can mis-lead you. I've the same problem with the 2 Centi boards of Ckong and Gyruss. Replaced the indicated RAM, but still the same error.
I think it can also be another RAM causing it but it can also be the buffer IC's around the processor.
About the controller: Don't you just love this hobby ? ;D ;D
Small screws ? They are probably also non-metric, good luck finding those in Europe !
But I found this great source in the UK: http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/fixings.htm
Great communications through e-mail, honest prices and shipping costs. And they have both metric and imperial sizes.
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First check: Put the PCB on it's side in front of you and support it with something so it can't flip over.
Now put your DVM in diode test. Hold the left lead (doesn't matter red or black) on the pin of the IC and the right lead on the actual soldering island on the PCB. It should of course beep right away. Check all the pins of that IC.Also visually check the socket.
If that is all OK, you will have to trace every track of every pin to which it should be going acc. to the schematics and test like-wise if the tracks are still 100% conducting.
thx for that short write up, i'll do that probably tomorrow (if i have the time, haven't done anything for school over the last few days :-[). one question remains: what is a SOLDERING ISLAND?
About the controller: Don't you just love this hobby ? ;D ;D
for me that really is one of the reasons! when frustration turns slowly but surely into pure joy - i just love it :-*
But I found this great source in the UK: http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/fixings.htm
thx for that link, i'll have a closer look at the shop later!
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thx for that short write up, i'll do that probably tomorrow (if i have the time, haven't done anything for school over the last few days :-[). one question remains: what is a SOLDERING ISLAND?
Take a look on this link at the first image: http://www.frbiz.com/product/11124871/Repairing_Tool_for_CT_936ESD_Anti_Static_Soldering_Station.html (http://www.frbiz.com/product/11124871/Repairing_Tool_for_CT_936ESD_Anti_Static_Soldering_Station.html)
As called soldering station. ;) ;)
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WHAT? ???
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The soldering station is a tool to made precise soldering on pcb or elctronic circuit, with a precise temperature and a little tip.
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i know what a soldering station is, flip, because i have one at home, but andré was talking about soldering ISLANDS!
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check out this thread on klov with the exact same error: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=112601&highlight=paperboy
perhaps i should simply replace the rams ...
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i know what a soldering station is, flip, because i have one at home, but andré was talking about soldering ISLANDS!
Whoops!!!! Didn't noticed!!! :-[ :-[ :-[
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the place the pin of the ic is soldered to the cirquit board is calles "soldering island"
(http://pe1mew.nl/handboek/images/SolderTeveelTin.png)
but thisone has too much solder IMHO 8)
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the place the pin of the ic is soldered to the cirquit board is calles "soldering island"
(http://pe1mew.nl/handboek/images/SolderTeveelTin.png)
but thisone has too much solder IMHO 8)
Not well maded however ;)
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That would get you a F at our electronics school...
Bad, bad, bad bulbs !!!
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i've been thinking about this monitor orientation and i wasn't sure whether etienne was making a joke or not when he told me to rotate the monitor to have the picture in the right orientation. in theory it is possible to rotate the monitor, because the chassis is NOT screwed to the monitor itself, but only connected to it via wires, so it COULD be done. but as i've said: i don't see how i could accidently have rotated the monitor while taking it out ...
i took a picture from behind and judging by the position of the anode cap and the fact that all the lables are readable without rotating your head ;) i'd say the monitor is in the position it is supposed to be. when we turned on the game at stefan's place, i'm pretty sure that the picture wasn't upside down. unfortunately, i don't have any pictures from the inside BEFORE i took out the monitor :(
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2803/4321239417_16e464e8c5_b.jpg)
any suggestions? is it possible that i didn't plug in a cable correctly? dip switches on the chassis?
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It was ment as a joke ofcourse , but it could solve your problem :D
as far as i know the HVT connection is always located at the "upside" of a tube, but thats just as far as i know
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Maybe you put the deflection wire on the wrong connector on the chassis. Or the wrong way around....
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as far as i know the HVT connection is always located at the "upside" of a tube, but thats just as far as i know
On color CRTs yes. REALLY old B/W's can differ.
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the place the pin of the ic is soldered to the cirquit board is calles "soldering island"
(http://pe1mew.nl/handboek/images/SolderTeveelTin.png)
but thisone has too much solder IMHO 8)
Not well maded however ;)
I would be proud of myself if I could make them like that. :oops:
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Maybe you put the deflection wire on the wrong connector on the chassis. Or the wrong way around....
deflection wire? which one is that? will have to check ...
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The one running to the deflection yoke.
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deflection wire? which one is that? will have to check ...
Ully check these links:
http://homearcade.org/BBBB/yoke.html
http://www.fresnellens.net/Troubleshooting.htm
http://koti.welho.com/aahone22/tvscope.html
:spaceace:
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the restoration continues ...
some "minor" stuff first: reconstructed the monitor frame and gave it a light layer of black
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4321895033_31dbd9d183_b.jpg)
coin door back from the powder coater, new locks installed :)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4321909167_192b6fcae6_b.jpg)
now on to the serious stuff: the control panel and the player controls. in case you don't remember, here's how that section of the cabinet looked when i got the machine :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4321890979_60033cbaf6_b.jpg)
rust, rust, rust
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4321891259_608efd02c4_b.jpg)
unusable - the overlay!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4321890435_269e46a39a_b.jpg)
i've received a gift from the united states
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4322623530_a3b617e8fe_b.jpg)
inside, a new overlay
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4322626910_06a7f224c5_b.jpg)
can't wait, this has to be applied immediately!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2777/4321893501_1d6ca4c67d_b.jpg)
outstanding reproduction quality
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4322627662_1263a80eeb_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4321894175_f259742be9_b.jpg)
of course, the results have to be checked "on location" ;D
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4322626192_a91c144337_b.jpg)
on to the player controls: one of the main element of the controller are the handlebars, so i tackled that problem first. after disassembly :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4321888899_069b20a0cc_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2798/4321889413_c6e2b6b08e_b.jpg)
i wanted to have those pieces as shiny and new as possible. the original parts had been nickle-plated, that's why i didn't want to go with a cheap solution like spraying them, because it wouldn't have taken long and the sprayed color would have come off. i did some researching, made a couple of phone calls and finally found a shop who said "yes, we can do that, no problem, just send us the parts". it took quite a while (and cost me some money), but after a couple of weeks a found a package on my doorstep :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4321889191_64de6b2567_b.jpg)
close-up: "metal finishing" - sounds good 8)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4321889953_50fd456026_b.jpg)
after opening the package, this is what i found inside. take out your sunglasses ;)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4322625322_d2b7ce878f_b.jpg)
i also found a NOS set of handlebar grips: the original game was manufactured with three different grip colors: black, red and blue. i would have LOVED :-* to find a set of red grips, but wasn't successful, so i settled with the blue version. still looking terrific though!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2720/4321891913_40c2c4d3d5_b.jpg)
old vs. new
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4321892131_0124d26527_b.jpg)
i also got a can of 3-in-1 oil (recommended for those controllers) and two tubes of nyogel lube - these will come in handy!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4321895549_3a575b3b78_b.jpg)
here are some of the parts needed for the player controls, some (like the housing with the tension springs and the bearings) have not yet been disassembled. i just wanted to give you an idea how many parts make up that controller.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4321892765_e3a87992eb_b.jpg)
more parts - greetings from the powdercoater ;)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2710/4322625518_db22bf141a_b.jpg)
so let's get this baby on the road ...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2617/4322628932_c86c6a81c6_b.jpg)
the manual says "put a heavy coat of lube on the housing where the tension springs will go" - this is what i'm doing
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4322629586_01aa37f887_b.jpg)
slowly but surely i'm getting there!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4321895777_e9b6ef050c_b.jpg)
once you're done with re-assembly, you have to thread the wiring through the bearings and axles. this job is damn frustrating and time-consuming. i'm using a croched hook and thicker wires to which i attach the original wires to pull them through. not a lot of space to work with and screws in the axles blocking the path! >:(
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2733/4321896193_b3b1659d32_b.jpg)
but in the end i prevail :spaceace:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4321896963_3fb7d1e4d4_b.jpg)
after that, the wiring has to be soldered to the leaf switches ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4013/4322630226_b84a9d7d48_b.jpg)
... and to the potentiometers
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4321897267_50733fe60a_b.jpg)
rewired and soldered - TICK!!!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4321897545_fd91d56827_b.jpg)
CHECK THIS OUT
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4322631584_d2ee6ecf77_b.jpg)
the handlebar also need a new overlay - courtesy of thisoldgame.com
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4322631330_c475f21bf4_b.jpg)
as usual, fix it with tape for a precise positioning
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4321898157_2d7605ecef_b.jpg)
then pull back the protective layer and roll it on
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2720/4322632022_7913f67860_b.jpg)
done!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2796/4322632642_444ff09a61_b.jpg)
i haven't screwed the pieces together yet, because i have to make an alignment test of the potentiometers first once the pcbs are working, but i'm placing the control panel and the player controls on the cabinet to see whether all the efforts (and the money) have paid off!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2671/4322633066_5eb8f7e775_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4321898681_de51aab31a_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4321894413_a8ae85a264_b.jpg)
haven't said this in a long time: I'M THRILLED :) :) :)
to be continued ...
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wow thats a complex job very nice, now comes the big question does it work?
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Great restoration job!
I'm very curious about this :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4322625322_d2b7ce878f_b.jpg)
...because I may need a similar job for several projects. Expensive you said? How much? ::)
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OH Ully, that coin door SO made me want to have a look at the SW yoke parts !!!! I should have had them here now if it wasn't for the $&^#$)%^#(^$&@#^$*)&%)&^)&^%$)(@&#^%)(&%^ weather ! ;D
It looks completely fabulous ! (and all the other work too of course !)
Yes there are many similarities (and even parts) from the SW yoke in Paperboy...
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:o :o :o
GRRRRREAT!
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Thats looking "Super" Ully! 8)
I don't know your mechanical skills, but it sure looks like a tough job to put this together again!
anyway , it looks like you did it !
now only see if it works when you have the PCB up and running
and then ofcourse the coindoor , this powdercoat is really making them new !
About the grips , i understand you want original, but these will match the chome very well :
(http://www.beekhovenbikes.nl/images/Cruisers/handvat20skull.jpg)
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I'm very curious about this ... because I may need a similar job for several projects. Expensive you said? How much? ::)
i paid 50 euros for the 4 pieces :shock:. just to refresh your memory: the entire cabinet cost me €36,50 ;) but it was well worth it, fabulous finish, incredible look! A+++
thx a lot for all your kind words! putting the controller back together again was a pain in the a**, especially because it's been many many weeks since i disassembled it. i DID take a lot of pictures and the description in the manual is really good and accurate, but there are several ways to do it wrong. the shafts and inner housings can be swapped around as they are identical. i did make some mistakes and had to disassemble it over and over again, but in the end - I WON :twisted:
things left to do:
- solve the screen orientation problem
- fix the pcb (or get a working one :P)
- add an additional metal bar to the inside of the control panel area to give more support to the heavy control panel (those things tend to bend in the middle)
- remove the protective layer from the sidearts :-*
- move it next to the other machines ;)
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Only one word
IMPRESSIVE :o :o
:spaceace:
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the restoration continues ...
because of the weight of the player controls there is a lot of tension / pressure on the control panel itself. add to that the intensity during gameplay and you have what a lot of paperboy (and championship sprint) control panels suffer from: they are bent in the middle. my panel is almost flat, but once the player controls are installed and the control panels hinges are "closed", there is a bigger gap between the monitor frame and the panel right in the middle.
it's difficult to see in the following picture, but it is clearly there!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4328388952_1db69229be_b.jpg)
because i don't want this to get worse (and eventually destroy my panel), i've decided to add additional support for the control panel in form of a metal bar. but first of all, i have to do something else. the wood on the inner right side of the control panel area which "carries" the panel wasn't screwed properly to the cabinet during assembly (and i didn't realize that until now), that's why - when installed - the position of the control panel on the right side is a few millimeters lower than on the left side, making it uneven and intolerable ;)
for that, i've "designed" a small piece of wood to compensate for that inaccuracy :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4327655561_af6e769715_b.jpg)
i'm glueing this on top of the control panel support
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2729/4328388784_7d4f9c93ba_b.jpg)
on the left side of the control panel, i'm creating a small ditch so that the supporting metal bar i'm adding will fit in nicely with the wood - as if it were created in one piece!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4327655335_05ace0c8c8_b.jpg)
here's the metal bar which is going to give more support to the control panel. i've screwed it to a piece of wood, which in return will be screwed to the wooden control panel supports i have just prepared.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2795/4328389016_39a387b366_b.jpg)
here's the metal bar in detail, note that i've also drilled differently sized holes to countersink the screws :)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4328388508_f516036852_b.jpg)
and here we have it on location. impossible to see on that picture (because the control panel is missing), but it works like a charm and does exactly what it is supposed to do - give support to the control panel. it took me a while to come up with that idea and to construct something which can be easily installed and does its job, but in the end i fulfilled the requirements :spaceace:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4327655259_e815f82e99_b.jpg)
note to myself: add the same "construction" to the championship sprint cabinet
on to the next problem: remember that the monitor orientation wasn't correct, that is: the picture was upside down.
i've asked for help on the american klov forum and after some input i knew what i had to do. here's a closeup picture of the monitor chassis. difficult to access, because it's in the far back corner. do you see the description next to that upper green connector: REVERSE YOKE. this is what i'm here for ... ;)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2727/4328389182_8f9c46b17c_b.jpg)
unplugged!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4328389090_c1fd630684_b.jpg)
obviously the monitor really was installed the wrong way around when i got the game, because now it has the correct orientation, only that the picture doesn't. so let's find out whether plugging in the connector below its initial position (there are two possibilies to plug this in) will do the trick. btw, i never removed that connector, didn't even know it existed! but who cares, testing time ...
... drum roll ...
:arrow: PLUG
... drum roll ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4327655047_15e2aec9d8_b.jpg)
:spaceace: YEAH BABY :spaceace:
the only thing that's still not ok with the picture is the alignment, but this should only be a matter of turning some knobs!
it was a good day for paperboy, let's have a look at the checklist:
- solve the screen orientation problem
- add an additional metal bar to the inside of the control panel area to give more support to the heavy control panel (those things tend to bend in the middle)
- fix the pcb (or get a working one)
- drill supporting holes for the control panel on the front of the cabinet (i though i could go without, but they were originally there and i was told that you need them)
- fix the player controls to the control panel
- remove the protective layer from the sidearts
- move it next to the other machines
as you can see, not a lot left to do, i guess i'll have to deal with that pcb now. andré, have you checked your emails? ;)
to be continued ...
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Glad you solved the upsidedown problem :)
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Almost finished ..... go go go Ully !!!
8)
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i've asked for help on the american klov forum and after some input i knew what i had to do. here's a closeup picture of the monitor chassis. difficult to access, because it's in the far back corner. do you see the description next to that upper green connector: REVERSE YOKE. this is what i'm here for ... ;)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2727/4328389182_8f9c46b17c_b.jpg)
Uh, didn't I mention that ?
Mail received.
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Uh, didn't I mention that ?
you probably did when you wrote "Maybe you put the deflection wire on the wrong connector on the chassis. Or the wrong way around", but my answer was "deflection wire???".
but don't worry, even a techno noob like myself got this fixed now. i'm learning slowly but surely though ...
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Remind me to give you a crash-course on monitors.And electronics. ;)
Sorry I wasn't more clear about it, but at least I'm happy that my memory still worked OK because I posted that from the top of my head without checking manuals etc.
Now, let's see those voltages :D
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i'm going to see my bed first ;D
voltages tomorrow, haven't checked the board for test points or "curls", don't know how those are supposed to look!
g'night
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i'm going to see my bed first ;D
voltages tomorrow, haven't checked the board for test points or "curls", don't know how those are supposed to look!
g'night
It's very likely not "curls" because Atari used those on the earlier boards. They are simply some hard wire curled a couple of times and then soldered on the PCB at the test point. The advantage of them is that you can stick your meter tip between the curl (so you don't need alligator clamps for that).
Anyway, here's the part of the PCB you need to look for:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100691/Schermafbeelding-202010-02-04-20om-2000-12-40/web.jpg?ver=12652391290001)
Red circle = +5V test point
Yellow Circle = GND (Ground) and +15V and -15V test points
The arrows show which lead you should put onto the test points. It's always handy to "fix" the GND connection (black lead) with alligator clamps or something like that if you have those around. THis way you can move the red test-lead to anywhere on the board with one hand. Now put the black lead on the GND and the red lead on +5V. You should read exactly 5.00 V or a little bit higher.
Keep the black lead on the GND test point, and move the red test lead to the -15V testpoint. Check if it's close to -15V. Then move the red lead to the +15V and again check.
If this is all good, switch the meter to AC and re-do all those tests. You should ideally read 0.00 volts because we want DC here, not AC. If you have any AC (for instance, 0.50 volts) you will definitely need to re-cap the power supply. A value of 0.01 or 0.02 is acceptable.
The test points maybe just some metal pin or maybe even just a "soldering" island that isn't soldered, with some bare metal where you can touch your test probes (they started to do that when the got into cost reduction).
Let's have a good hi-res picture of your PCB by the way....
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I don't want to derail this thread, but Level42 that is some really useful electronics pointers there! Don't suppose you could help me diagnose my Rygar board problem? I so want to play that game!!!
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Well, actually these checks are very basic and should be performed on any cab you get, working or not. F.I. a game could be working but the voltages could be "just" right.(let's say, 4,75V) That is probably enough to keep the game running OK, but it's operating on the (lower) edge of what will work. It takes very little to make the game crash f.i.
I'm not a PCB repair wizard. I can do some basic stuff, but I struggle with it too mostly. I understand the basics but I lack a good test-bench (yet) and some equipment. If it's basic stuff, open a thread in the Technical area about it.
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maybe, just a idea, to make a dedicated sticky topic in the technical area ?
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ok, checked for ac and dc voltages on the boards - have a look :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4329901135_d50f14fa51.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4329901321_a9f519d918.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4330634700_a91d68f009.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4329901475_7c5944b288.jpg)
the 4.90 is well within tolerable level, all the other voltages (-5, -15, +15) checked out ok as well (hope i didn't forget any).
i've also checked the connections of the ics and the soldering islands: BEEP everywhere! haven't followed the tracks yet though. i'll also try replacing the rams with new ones - found a private person in germany who is going to sell me his spare rams. this solution was suggested by someone on the klov forum. i'll fix this eventually 8)
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oh wait, just got an idea: why not take the rams from my championship sprint and put them on the paperboy board. CS is working, so those rams should be fine. if it doesn't work, i at least save some money, if it DOES work, i can buy the replacement rams after all ;D man, i'm so freaking' smart ;) ;) ;)
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Your getting better every day ully ! ;D
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nice to hear the words "you have a friend in the paper business" for the first time ;D
"what the heck is he talking about?", you must be thinking. well, let me start from the beginning ...
i went to patrik's place to get the championship sprint boards (from the greenhouse). the first thing i did was exchange ALL the rams type 6116 between the two boards.
RESULTS: RAM ERROR AT 3B :( :arrow: this means that the rams are ok, because the CS board is working nicely
next thing i did was take the CS sprint board (which already has the PB rams installed now) and change the CS roms with the PB roms. i now have an ex-CS-board which has both the rams and the roms from the PB-board installed. time to plug it in and turn the machine on!
RESULTS: board passes :!: the ram / rom tests, continues with the sound chip test and ends this with the words "you have a friend in the paper business" for a test of the speech function!
YEAH - I HAVE A WORKING PAPERBOY BOARD!!! :spaceace:
i guess from this i can draw the following conclusion: paperboy rams and roms are ok, there has to be some kind of defect on the board itself!
now a question for the experts: where would you start looking, is that something that i can fix myself, should i simply try to get a replacement board, ...
OPINIONS PLEASE :-*
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I think it should either be a bad track or a buffer IC. Those ICs are between the CPU (processor) and the RAM chips.
Edit: Where did you measure that 5.01 V and where the 4.90 V ? I suggest raising the voltage a _little_ bit. Set the 5.01 to 5.05 and the 4.90 to 4.95. You have a better margin by doing so.
Usually I measure the 5 Volts also close to the end of the board. You will see that it has a bit lower value on the end then at the entry point (near the connector).
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Where did you measure that 5.01 V and where the 4.90 V ? I suggest raising the voltage a _little_ bit. Set the 5.01 to 5.05 and the 4.90 to 4.95. You have a better margin by doing so.
i measured the 5 volts on the video pcb and the 4.9 volts on the cpu pcb directly at the test points that you pointed me at. i know how to raise voltages on a switching power supply, but how is this done with the power supply used in my paperboy? :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4331368431_24c45e89f7_b.jpg)
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You can't regulate it there, that's for sure ! :D
Does it have an AR-II board ? If so there should be a potmeter there...
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I almost suggested that he should increase the primary voltage ;) like 260 Volts instead of 240 ;D
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come on guys, let's do some noob bashing! ;) ;)
GIVE IT TO ME - I'M SO READY!!! 8)
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OK, you asked for it !
The AR-III (AR stands for Audio-Regulator (hey, ding-ding-ding !) is on the back-door of the cab on the lowest part of it.
There should be a potmeter on there somewhere. What is a potmeter I hear you say.
Well, let me Google that for you: http://tinyurl.com/yc8rbqk (http://tinyurl.com/yc8rbqk)
If there are MORE than 1 potmeter, check the schematics. I am not familiar with the AR-III (I _am_ familiar with the AR-II, but that one's a bit different).
;D ;D ;D
Seriously:
In doubt DON'T adjust it. And if you do it move only VERY tiny bits !!!
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come on guys, let's do some noob bashing! ;) ;)
GIVE IT TO ME - I'M SO READY!!! 8)
Just kidding you my friend 8)
i have great respect for your work ;)
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Well, let me Google that for you ...
haha, let me google that for you - that's classy! ;D still laughing ...
and don't worry about bashing me, i'm getting so many compliments from you guys, i can take whatever you throw at me as long as you don't insult my cats ;) no hard feelings whatsoever, i've been talking and joking with you guys for such a long time now, i'm sure we all know by now how to take comments from the others.
GAME ON!!!
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the restoration continues ...
i switched the roms and rams between the video pcbs of paperboy and championship sprint - paperboy is up and running now. however, this is only a temporary solution, because i need to find a working system 2 video pcb (or fix the exisiting one) in order to run championship sprint later on. for now, i'm happy to be able to deliver some papers! :)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2780/4334899402_9724296013_b.jpg)
in order to give the control panel even more stability, the panel was originally screwed to the front. that's why i'm drilling two holes to add this extra support. since the holes are for "square screws", i'm using a chisel to make the holes square.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4334157161_ca77a1799e_b.jpg)
now on to the fun part: removing the protective layer of the sidearts
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2711/4334157497_faeac32976_b.jpg)
looking very good underneath
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4334157407_a90effedb8_b.jpg)
fantastic :-*! the two airbubbles that can be seen on the photo have been removed in the meantime! die, you b****es :twisted:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4334899740_680686157c_b.jpg)
checklist please:
- fix the pcb (or get a working one)
- drill supporting holes for the control panel on the front of the cabinet
- fix the player controls to the control panel
- remove the protective layer from the sidearts
- move it next to the other machines
looks like i'm done with everything, so here's a couple of more pictures :arrow:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/4334157575_58373991fa_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4334157769_fba2c405f5_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2582/4334899014_287b79aeee_b.jpg)
battle of the systems: system 2 vs. system 1 :spaceace:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2587/4334898856_5cec2a8e0e_b.jpg)
my printer is having some color issues, that's why the mandatory keyring is still missing. however, this doesn't keep be from writing the following words:
THIS RESTORATION IS OFFICIALLY DONE!!!
thx a lot for your support and all the positive feedback you're giving me. :-*
be seeing you! 8)
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wow! excellent work Ully!!! - that is damn sweet looking!
Im glad i talked you into buying that cab! ;D
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That's great work you've done there, the cab looks like new again! :)
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Outstanding work, congrats !
I love Paperboy.
Matteo
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Fantastic resto Ully!!!
:-* :-* :-*
:spaceace:
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i already say that i respect your work,
this one looks stunning again !
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Sick! looks like new again. very nice job!
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Congratulation Ully, a great restoration and two of My favorite game ever! ;D ;D ;D
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Great job! Now... play the game and score! :-*
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As always, an amazing restoration !
Ully, did you try to "mingle" the boards. So use the video board of the original paperbay on the other one and vice versa ?
It's just to isolate the problem to one board.
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Your Paperboy turned out A+ Ully :spaceace: :spaceace:
It's nice to see how dedicated you are, I wouldn't have the patience to do it so thoroughly like you.
When will you start working on Death Race, that one will also be an awesome project to follow.
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Ully, did you try to "mingle" the boards. So use the video board of the original paperbay on the other one and vice versa ?
It's just to isolate the problem to one board.
right now i'm using the championship sprint video board in the paperboy with the rams / roms switched over. haven't had the time to test the PB video board in the CS yet, because it's still in storage!
When will you start working on Death Race, that one will also be an awesome project to follow.
right now i'm working on the games i have up here, that is defender, pac-man and i've just recently started work on the berzerk. death race (and championship sprint) are next in line though, can't wait to get started on those either. the problem is that i can't bring an unlimited amount of games up here, i first have to clear some space (that is: move games out) in my "hobby room" so that the next one can move in.
btw, i want to thank all of you guys again for the nice comments you always find for my work, i really appreciate it and it motivates me to do things even better ;)
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Very cool!
I remember this game being very hard to play.
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Now you can start delivering newspapers! Congratulations, Now You're Chris Peterson.... Time to move back in with Mom & Dad! LOL ;D
Again, Great Restoration!!!
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/sonic_1992/Chris.jpg)
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america's favorite psycho ;)
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he is ! defenetly :D
have you seen "get a life" ully ?
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have you seen "get a life" ully ?
nope! should i?
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well , thats up to you, but then you understand that he is a little psycho ;D
one needs to like his humor
for me he is al little annoying
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQW5t8NHGsU&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQW5t8NHGsU&feature=related)
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My most favorite episode is where Chris meets his cousin Donald, He owns a melon stand and drives a 85 Chevette! LO Friggin' L :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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back to this one!
as i had stated in another topic, the picture wasn't perfect (shaky etc.), so i installed a new cap kit on the monitor. while the screen looks nice now (except for the bad colors which are caused by something else), it didn't fix one problem which i had hoped it would: the vertical size. as you can see on the following picture, the screen is too wide and i wasn't able to adjust it with any knob turning >:(
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5323200699_080e913eeb_b_d.jpg)
is it possible that this is caused by a bad big blue? there are two of them in the bottom of the cabinet, one on and one next to the power supply. i didn't even know there were games with two big blues. anyway, i've already ordered replacements (as spares) from bob roberts, perhaps i should exchange them now! could this be the cause of the screen problem?
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5323805850_a5437b2224_b_d.jpg)
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Uhh, not so handy to start the same question in two threads ?
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Uhh, not so handy to start the same question in two threads ?
agreed, i first posted it here but then thought the other topic was more recent, so moved the question over. let's go over to the other side ... :twisted:
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Hey Ully, nice to see that your paperboy is good working! :)
I don´t know if your screen problem fixed with exchanging the both big blue cap´s, but it´s a very good idea to do it. that reminds me that i must be order big blue cap´s from bob roberts too. :roll:
I have already two big blue in my paperboy, and i think like you, it is the only cab with two big blue caps i have seen.
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Hey Ully, nice to see that your paperboy is good working! :)
unfortunately, it's not :'(. what about yours? wanna share some pics? :)
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I have only one pic to share, it´s taken after a second testing and fixing a problem with the power chord.
As you can see, the cab is now working nicely. :D
(http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/493/1005648.jpg)
It has actual nice red hunt wilde grips. (not seen on the this pic) I want to take and share actual pics in the next days. ;)
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FANTASTIC RESTO!!!!
AMAZING JOB!!!
You must be proud
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I have already two big blue in my paperboy, and i think like you, it is the only cab with two big blue caps i have seen.
Pole Position uses two as well...
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Here Ully, it´s for you: ;)
(http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/7346/1005709.jpg)
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thx toralf, those red grips definitely look sharp!