Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: vernimark on September 28, 2016, 03:12:26 PM
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Few containers ago I bought an Omega race,
now it's time to restore it :)
these are the starting conditions:
- cabinet was splitting in 2 parts, one side is not so stable...
- some knocks on the front grid
- the edges are not in good conditions; I don't know if due to humidity or what else
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Ouch...looks like a lot of work.....good luck with the resto!! :)
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Good luck with this massive job
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thank you.
this is the next step. I cleaned the transformers.
Then I reconfigured the primary one in order to work with 220V but one capacitor (3.5uf 440VAC) becomes VERY hot.
I asked to vector list if this is normal or the causes of this problem. We are still discussing.
In the meantime a replacement for that cap is coming from China :pac:
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...and the filter unit too
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220V configuration (from the manual)
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have fun bringing this one back - it looks nasty!
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remade the back side....
it was quite compromised
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then I used putty for the bottom part and then sand paper in order to give back the original shape.
The I tried to give consistency to the wood using waterproofing paint but it was not enough... the edges were stil... soft.
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so I used flating for parquet and black paint and I have to say that I'm quite satisfied of the result.
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adding labels and accessories...
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SPeakers grid was damaged but nothing serious. THen I just replaced the bulbs and repainted the metal frame.
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Yet another coin door....
First of all I removed all parts
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then I cleaned part by part
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Then I applied the usual procedure to the frame and to the panel (only frame shown here)
1) removing the old paint and the rust
2) fixing rust
3) paint with flating
4)new black paint
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THis is the result reassembling all the parts
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un pezzo splendido :-*
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WOW !
Nice work Marco ! :spaceace: :spaceace:
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thank you! It's a long time I didn't spend my nights with my kids :D
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Easy job for the CP glass.
Just replaced the lamp.
Black light had the ballast gone. Taken one from the star castle that is waiting for better days.
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About the CP: I just
- cleaned the surface
- re painted the screws
- cleaned the know and sprayed with transparent pain
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the result
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"t-molding"
actually this cab hasn't a real t-molding
these were the conditions
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I sand, painted with flatting and re-painted in glossy black (for the edges), satin black for the internal part of both sides.
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I repainted both sides preserving the stickers using spray flatting and a normal satin black paint
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ok, the cabinet is ready now it's time to repair the acid-damaged board.... :shock:
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The board has been damaged by the acid and I realized the entity of the damage once I removed all sockets.
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I tried to remove all corroded parts
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...some tracks have gone...
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ok.
I proceeded soldering all sockets and rebuilding tracks.
Actually I had to take a pic of each IC position so I could test one by one the broken connections once the socket has been installed.
Plugging the board I had a good surprise because the game started BUT after few seconds the vectors hide for a while.
Running the self test I have the following errors:
BBU RAM S4: BAD
V RAM2 J1 and or (L/M)1: BAD
V RAM4 (J/K)1 and/or (N/P)1: BAD
V ROM2 F1: BAD
Actually not so bad.
All the RAMs/ROM (but BBU RAM) share the VECTOR ADDRESS BUS, from SMEM0 to SMEM9 controlled by 74157 in positions K3, L3, M3.
MAIN ADDRESS BUS (MA0..9) and PROGRAM ADDRESS BUS (SEQA0..9) are connected to these 74157
I can see BBU RAM (5101) uses the MAIN ADDRESS BUS too, so I’ll check if S4 pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 21 are correctly on the bus and if all lines arrive to 74244 in (P/N)6 (pins 3, 5, 7, 9, 12, 14,16,18). This will be the first test I’ll perform.
I think I'm close to have Omega Race working again :lol:
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Wow, this is a very nice restoration and an interesting thread! :)
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thank you.
Here the problems I had yesterday.
BBU RAM S4: BAD
V RAM2 J1 and or (L/M)1: BAD
V RAM4 (J/K)1 and/or (N/P)1: BAD
V ROM2 F1: BAD
1 – BBU RAM S4: It was related to a power problem. I can’t understand connecting the oscilloscope ground to the game ground the probe wire becomes hot. Anyway problem solved.
2 – V RAM2: This was the most complex error. The analysis made yesterday had no success but considering now the problem was related to J1 and or (L/M)1 only I pointed my attention to the “Chip enable” circuit. After some tests I could see I forgot to rebuild the track between 7404 in position PR1 PIN 8 to 7432 in position R1 pin 10.
3 – V RAM4: (J/K)1 2114 was faulty. I just replaced it.
4 – V ROM2 F1: ROM was actually bad and I replaced it with a new one.
This is the self-test result. I’m sorry I didn’t manage Z signal
so, PCB now is ok…
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The monitor works too. I had to remake some solders only.
Next week I'll work on the final details.