Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Technical Area => Topic started by: simplesi on March 18, 2013, 10:26:07 AM
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Hi,
I finally got my dream cocktail. Thanks for the heads-up Andy!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3k1556ahp8jposk/20130310_182228.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/3k1556ahp8jposk/20130310_182228.jpg)
Anyhoo... got it home and had a wee nosey over it. The condition is reasonable. Internally it's actually quite clean and shiny. The boards look in good nick. It took me a wee while to figure out the sounds (not realising that there were two volume controls on two different PCBs. However, there is a problem that the monitor has collapsed.
Here's a linky to the video I took: http://www.dropbox.com/s/2ke2s4hvydakjw3/20130317_160750.mp4 (http://www.dropbox.com/s/2ke2s4hvydakjw3/20130317_160750.mp4)
I don't know if the sounds are correct, and I've no idea what's going on, on screen. The collapsed line, does change colour and it looks like there's things moving.
Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. I know my way around a soldering iron, but the level of my understanding is basic so layman's terms would be good.
All original inside, with the Sanyo monitor.
Many thanks in advance.
Si
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From Klov:
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll282/dokert/Monitor%20ID/Sanyo20EZVFlowChart.jpg)
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=111041
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Thank you Etienne! Will go over this later. ;D
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Not all Nintendo machines have the 20EZ. Considering Space Bird is well pre-DK era, it might be an earlier chassis.
Still, the basics of that flow-chart are the same.
Definitly a vertical collapse, it might be jus the test switch ;D
Talbe looks nice b.t.w......
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This is probably a stupid question, but the service switch... I see a service button, but not sure where this switch is.
Here's a photo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/mxn0yqqtwx5ilpo/20130310_124016.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/mxn0yqqtwx5ilpo/20130310_124016.jpg)
I am probably misunderstanding. Are there any schematics of this with the SW301?
Thanks in advance.
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just press this switch and see what happens.
my guess is not much, but ok ;D
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Yeah... it did nothing apart from turn the light from a reddy colour to white. :D
Cap kit, here I come. Do you know the best place for this? Bob Roberts? I read somewhere about Twistys?
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i'm just doing some cap kits on my sanyos and the deluxe versions from bob roberts, but although his service is great and fast, ordering there is always a pain in the butt!
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Yeah... it did nothing apart from turn the light from a reddy colour to white. :D
Cap kit, here I come. Do you know the best place for this? Bob Roberts? I read somewhere about Twistys?
I am not sure if a cap is the problem.
many time when you have a vertical collapse, it is a transistor problem, or a bad / cold solderjoint
but in general a capkit does not hurt, although i agree with Andre on this :
https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3051.msg41159#msg41159
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQB7te6SunY
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Yeah... it did nothing apart from turn the light from a reddy colour to white. :D
That's because you activated the test-screen of the game by pressing that button. That is not the test button of the monitor but of the game....
First you will have to know WHAT monitor this is....
If we _assume_ that it is en EZ20, the test switch is a sliding switch, not a push button, just like the flow chart says SLIDE the test switch..... ;D
I also don't think this is a cap issue.....check the flow chart...Apart from failing transistors it can also be poor contacts/bad solderings.
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That's what I was thinking. ???
Here's a picture of the iside of the monitor: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u6y93th05z5ajla/20130317_155114.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/u6y93th05z5ajla/20130317_155114.jpg)
I guess it's a Sanyo 370EJB22 then?
Do you know where the Test Switch for the monitor should be so I can "slide it"? ;) I can see it on the Manual I have: https://www.dropbox.com/s/r6n6k7hfi2s0owu/Space%20Firebird%20%28Nintendo%20Cocktail%29%20%5BOperation%5D%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf (https://www.dropbox.com/s/r6n6k7hfi2s0owu/Space%20Firebird%20%28Nintendo%20Cocktail%29%20%5BOperation%5D%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf)
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I guess it's a Sanyo 370EJB22 then?
thats a tube number, not the chassis..
i do see a separate (what looks like a) audio board there just like the 20EZ has...
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The number you mention is the type number of the tube, not of the monitor.
You really need to learn some basics about monitors before going on.
Read this:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=143645
and this:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,45137.0.html
To be honest I don't know where the test switch is as I do not own a cab with a Sanyo 20 EZ and in all honesty I'm surprised by the lack of (good) pictures of the chassis of 20EZ on the internet.
If you do not see the switch on the monitor PCB, it probably isn't there.
That manual says nothing about which monitor is used. Can you make a really clear picture which shows the entire main board of the monitor ?
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Ah, found a good drawing of a 20EZ chassis:
(http://home.comcast.net/~mtpacifico/_KLOV/SanyoBoardControls.jpg)
This comes from this excellent thread about the 20EZ on KLOV forum:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=111041&highlight=20ez
This is also where the flow-chart comes from. The thread also has more tips about vertical collapse problems...so....read away :)
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If you insist on getting a cap-kit, here is an alternative for Bob Roberts:
http://www.highscoresrepair.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_8&products_id=25&zenid=2ae39c130eb6446f289778baae9d8c98
This kit _does_ include the big filter cap, is high quality brand and 105 degr. instead of 85 degr. BR's kits (he's a great guy, but I never get his kits anymore) lack all these three IMHO essential things....
But again....we must know first which monitor you have...
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Ok... I've looked at the main board and it would seem I have the Sanyo 14-AZZ/14-EZW. It's similar to the EZ20.
Here's a copy of the main board: https://www.dropbox.com/s/16us2q7a9mtv0c1/20130319_214416.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/16us2q7a9mtv0c1/20130319_214416.jpg)
Really appreciate all your help. I've double cheked that the jumper is on the correct way (no switch on this board). Looks like the next thing is to replace TR402 and TR403. Do you know if the Cap Kit you recommend is good for this monitor?
Thanks.
Si
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did some googling:
http://www.juniorsrevenge.com/sanyo14azzcaplist.txt :
============
Sanyo 14-AZZ
============
C161 - 220uf 16V
C162 - 4.7uf 25v (Bipolar)
C166 - 1uf 50v
C202 - 220uf 16v
C205 - 100uf 25v
C206 - 4.7uf 25v (Bipolar)
C207 - 1uf 50v
C208 - 47uf 16v
C211 - 100uf 16v
C406 - 4.7uf 160v
C408 - 4.7uf 25v (Bipolar)
C410 - 47uf 160v
C453 - 1uf 50v
C455 - 1uf 50v
C457 - 100uf 25v
C460 - 1uf 50v
C462 - 100uf 160V
C475 - 1uf 160v
C610 - 1uf 160v
C471 - 10uf 160v
C474 - 330uf 25V
C479 - 1uf 16v
C484 - 330uf 25V (Bipolar)
C609 - 470uf 10V
C606 - 470uf 160V (B+ Filter Cap)
Compiled by Edward Lutz
Provided by www.juniorsrevenge.com
from some other source, i found a nice PDF..
Sanyo14in.pdf (http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/Sanyo14in.pdf)
I have put it on my webspace as direct linking was not working ;)
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Thanks Etienne. I appreciate your help. Do anyone know where I can order this kit, or is it best to just order the parts online?
Si
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Bob Roberts has a kit:
Sanyo 14" color- Atari $5.00
Better double check it's a complete kit, that all the parts are correct and if it has all those bipolar caps included....those are hard to find....
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Thanks. I saw that, but you mentioned before that there are better "deluxe" kits. Will double check.
Many thanks,
Si
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Yes but that source has only the most common monitor kits...
I still think the problem with your monitor is not the caps but faulty transistors or bad solderings....better check all that first...
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Ok... will do. I need to discharge the monitor first. Been doing some reading up. Thanks again.
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The bipolar caps are for the audio part AFAIR
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Been in touch with Bob Roberts. He can help me out with the cap kit, so that's ok. I just need to discharge my monitor.
I'll be making my own probe (long flat-head screw-driver, thick earthing wire, croc-clip, etc). When earthing, do you attach the croc-clip to the chassis of the monitor or somewhere else? Any advice?
Thanks,
Si
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV9Td8vAb0Y
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Better make sure to NOT touch the metal of the screwdriver with that method.... ;D
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Dont touch any metal parts during the discharge procedure, thats ofcourse a no-brainer.
just connect the cable to the frame, and stick that srewdriver under the anode cap and make sure you touch the metal under the cup with the screwdriver. ofcourse not with your finger ;)
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Hello chaps. Been a while... too much work at the moment and not enough time on my cabs.
Thanks for all your advice. I've managed to get a picture now. See the before and after pics. :)
I'm happy... this is my first major electronics fix for me. Woohoo! I fixed a collapse! I know this is is a minor thing. Anyway, what this has shown is there is a lot of bleed and I cannot centre the picture. There is no white either. :( I think there is a graphic problem where the stars show on the screen at start up then move to either side of the display when playing. Sounds work.
I'm thinking a cap kit for the monitor to fix the bleed (ordered from Bob Roberts). Is it a voltage problem?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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Bleeding could be caused by overdriving the guns..
try to fiddle around with the pots..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUL5TiUYAss
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Will do. Thanks Etienne.
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I'm happy... this is my first major electronics fix for me. Woohoo! I fixed a collapse!
What did you do to fix your problem?
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I'm happy... this is my first major electronics fix for me. Woohoo! I fixed a collapse!
What did you do to fix your problem?
I bet a bad soldering.