Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: Superully on February 24, 2012, 06:09:27 PM
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ok guys, this is it! i don't wanna go into details (pretty complicated), but through a lot of luck (and talking) i managed to snatch a nice new tool which will surely come in handy. don't know though if "tool" is the right term for it, it's more like a machine! :)
here it is - still boxed up :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6777354638_f7e8c18216_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/6923467319_a6923f1335_b_d.jpg)
cardboard hood removed :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6923469021_d0ec30310f_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6777354272_dcfb0c9422_b_d.jpg)
i had wanted a pcb testing station for a long time, especially since i've seen the ones from arcadiabay :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/6779934984_e99c5b580c_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/6926052329_0af3b28040_b_d.jpg)
i had some talks with the "arcadiabay boss" tom and he told me that their testing stations were built in the late 1980s, not just for themselves but also for other guys. so chances are this testing station was initially built by the arcadiabay guys as well because my machine looks almost identical to what they have!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6777353476_ae86dd712c_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/6923466837_82b7f26cb0_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6777355216_7242dbbbc0_b_d.jpg)
also included was a "beautifully crafted" control panel ...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7055/6777352574_f3c4692b09_b_d.jpg)
... and tons of adapters! unfortunately, most of them are not labeled! :'(
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6777353920_efa40a1f79_b_d.jpg)
now i need to find a nice place to set it up (which is not going to be easy) and of course i need to learn how to use this thing as well. :-[
a few questions to start with:
- as you can see, two different adapters are supported: tv ideal and msg. apart from the obvious difference in looks, what is the technical difference between those two?
- let's talk about the two devices on the right: the left one seems to be for AC voltages, but what about the right one: AC and DC? and what are those switches in the lower right corner good for (never seen the symbol next to the red switch)?
a do have a couple more questions, but let's start slowly ... ;)
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Wow - love the look of those! The orange is great :-* !
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"mission control huston - you are go for launch!"
That is what i call a nice piece of testing equipment!!!!!!
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That is what i call a nice piece of testing equipment!!!!!!
thx, but you have a fantastic machine yourself (of which i'm extremely jealous btw), your taito bench tester (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1446.0) - imho one of the coolest looking arcade items out there!!!
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/muerto/arc/taito3.jpg)
if you EVER wanna get rid off it, please please please think of me ... 8)
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Nice one Ully, I also saw these on Tom's webpage a few years back, but I didn't dare to buy one. :D
Good luck for learning to use it, maybe you should retire from teaching soon and make a pcb repair company. ;D
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I would talk to thorsten and dirk, i remember they have a simular testbench
maybe they can help you learn how to use it
Looks very cool !
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the same system also has workbenches which can be arranged individually. very rarely they show up on various auction sites, but unfortunately i missed one which was only about 50 kilometers away from my place! still could bite myself in the *** for screwing it up! :evil:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6780455884_29fed1d80a_d.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6926573819_afd4940c55_d.jpg)
i'm sure my time will come though eventually ... :spaceace:
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still could bite myself in the *** for screwing it up!
Pics or it didn't............uuuuhhh naaahhhh, better not ;)
Ully, Ully, Ully.....these kind of tools can be totally lethal for people who do not know how to operate them. Please box it up and ship to my address......
;D ;D ;D
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- let's talk about the two devices on the right: the left one seems to be for AC voltages, but what about the right one: AC and DC? and what are those switches in the lower right corner good for (never seen the symbol next to the red switch)?
The left looks like a adjustable isolation transformer
the right looks like a 10 amp ajustable regulated powersupply (a "labvoeding" as we dutchies like to call it )
the white switch has two marks, "~" which i assume is AC, and "=" for DC output
The mark next to the red switch looks to me like a double pole switch, so i think it cuts the power completely when switched off, and not only one line of the two
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- let's talk about the two devices on the right: the left one seems to be for AC voltages, but what about the right one: AC and DC? and what are those switches in the lower right corner good for (never seen the symbol next to the red switch)?
The left looks like a adjustable isolation transformer
yup, also called a Variac. Got one of those but never used. They can be handy when fuses keep blowing on f.i. monitors though....
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if you EVER wanna get rid off it, please please please think of me ... 8)
Actually, the thing is i dont have it any more. I donated it to the Danish Arcade Museum a year ago.
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Wow ... I am impressed! I have some kind of home made version (if you want to call that pile of junk that I test my pcbs on test station anyway ;)). The space consumed of my station is about a tenth (or less) of the space but has the same functionality ;) the coolness factor is way less of course. ;D
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Wow ... I am impressed! I have some kind of home made version (if you want to call that pile of junk that I test my pcbs on test station anyway ;)). The space consumed of my station is about a tenth (or less) of the space but has the same functionality ;) the coolness factor is way less of course. ;D
.......... PICTURES!!!!!!! ;)
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Actually, the thing is i dont have it any more. I donated it to the Danish Arcade Museum a year ago.
:'( :'( :'(
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.......... PICTURES!!!!!!! ;)
Ok ... But don't expect any pics till next week ... I am still tied to the bed because of a nasty little teeth surgery on Tuesday. Man, I tell you that it was one of natures biggest mistakes to decide that humans should have teeth instead of a beak. I hate it.
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I'm pretty sure some things in life would be a lot less enjoyable if we would have had a beak........ ;D ;D ;D ;D
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- as you can see, two different adapters are supported: tv ideal and msg. apart from the obvious difference in looks, what is the technical difference between those two?
The "MSG" pinout can be found in any Hellomat manual, for the "TV-Ideal" pinout, well, check any manual for ADP TV Ideal Standard or Twin Liner etc. Speleo has them on his site.
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The "MSG" pinout can be found in any Hellomat manual, for the "TV-Ideal" pinout, well, check any manual for ADP TV Ideal Standard or Twin Liner etc. Speleo has them on his site.
thx sascha, but how about an example? let's say i wanna test a bubble bobble pcb - what do i have to do?
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I give you an example, it's really easy. You need a fingerboard, a connector, a few wire clips, and the appropriate pinout of your game.
This is an adapter I made to test Konami boards like Amidar or Time Pilot on my Jamma MAK:
(http://img7.imagebanana.com/img/alb7imyo/IMG_63831.jpg)
On the left you see the fingerboard with 2x28 pins to fit the Jamma connector of my MAK.
On the right you see a 2x18 pin connector which fits the Amidar PCB.
You take a look at the pinout of the game and find the pin where eg. GND is connected. Find the GND pin on the Jamma side and connect them. Do this for all the connections you need. Finished.
Note that in this particular example the adapter can be used with quite a number of games which all use the "Konami Classic" or "Scramble" pinout. This is not always the case. In fact many pre-Jamma games have their own unique pinout.
Plus it is possible that bootlegs may have a different pinout than their original counterparts.
Concerning the test station you have:
-Instead of the Jamma Fingerboard you need one that fits your "TV Ideal" connector (more pins) or a loom for the "MSG" connector.
-Make a Jamma to MSG adapter or a Jamma to TV Ideal adapter (or both) and adapt you to-be-tested-games to Jamma. Because Jamma fingerboards are easier to find and I guess cheaper than TV Ideal fingerboards or those MSG/Hellomat looms.
thx sascha! so basically i'm creating a MSG / TV IDEAL adapter to Jamma and then an adapter for the individual games to jamma, right?
i'll go through all the adapters i have, perhaps there's something in there i can already use! i'll post more pics tomorrow (if i don't forget about it)!
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thx sascha! so basically i'm creating a MSG / TV IDEAL adapter to Jamma and then an adapter for the individual games to jamma, right?
Right!
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I have built two consoles for easier testing of unknown PCBs or known PCBs without soldering a specific adapter. Turned out very well and very handy :)
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mine was also built in order to be abble to test any pcb without making any soldering first:
(http://img1.uplood.fr/mamu/9yhn_inside.jpg)
(http://img1.uplood.fr/mamu/ff7q_img_5760.jpg)
mastermind is the key ;-)
it should be improved:
add an additional variable transformer in order to have pecific voltages delivered (I think on some ealier PCB that need 18V or 24V or any other voltage not provided by the standard JAMMA PSU)
add a volume control
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Impressive stuff !! Good to hear from you again Erik, long time ago !!!
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@thorsten & erik: both of your machines look really impressive. wanna share with us how they work? testing any pcb without soldering?
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Wow, what excellent examples of "universal" test benches you have there!
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instead of soldering wires on any adapters you just to have one "octopus" per kind of connector.
see picture above, there is an 22pin connector octopus wired
you plug the PCB you want to test to the corresponding octopus, then following the pinout of the PCB to test, you just have to plug the corresponding wire to the corresponding "hole" on the test bench
each hole on the test station is wired to a standard jamma connector.
see pic
(http://www.uplood.fr/visu.php?url=http://img1.uplood.fr/free/aauz_schema_banc.jpg)
in fact you don't solder anything once the test station is made, you just realise the adaptation moving wires.
once the PCB is tested, then you have to make the real adaptator as icyured by laschek
not sure I'm really clear.
this way you can quickly check any PCB
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It's just as simple as Erik wrote. PLUS I have made "overlay templates" for common pinouts. In the picture you see the one for PCBs with Konami-pinout. So I put it on the panel and just have to do the connections.
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They look very cool and usefull !
Also i think i can build something like that ::)
hmmm i feel a new project comming up :P ;D
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what is an octopus? and please, no pics like that :arrow:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-39NbWDrgklw/TmxNABvfHlI/AAAAAAAAA30/wBs3h2Vd6vE/s1600/octopus_1.jpg)
;D
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Cool equipment. ;)
By the way, how do you connect the monitor and is it also working with different kind of chassises?
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[...]PLUS I have made "overlay templates" for common pinouts. [...]
Brilliant (i was just trying to figure out why you had "Konami" written on it) :spaceace:
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what is an octopus? and please, no pics like that :arrow:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-39NbWDrgklw/TmxNABvfHlI/AAAAAAAAA30/wBs3h2Vd6vE/s1600/octopus_1.jpg)
;D
this looks like an octopus ;)
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i still don't get how you connect those wires to the pcbs ... any close-up shots?
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i still don't get how you connect those wires to the pcbs ... any close-up shots?
You simply put the blue connnector to the PCB and put the plugs to the necessary place in the test-station....my guess :)
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Luigi: good guess.
to Superully, lets imagine the following hypotetical PCB pinout:
component side:
1: Video Red
2: Video Green
3: Video Blue
4: video Sync
5: 12 V
6: Common
7: Joy2 Up
8: Joy2 Down
9: Joy2 Left
10: Joy2 right
etc etc.....
you will end up plugging each wire on their respective function.
really easy to perform, just read the pinout and plug the wire from the "octopuss" to the correct hole.
see:
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But with that set-up you still need to solder new "octopusies" for every different board right ?
What would be really universal would be an edge connector that would fit most boards and then have (small) plugs there to switch there. Or am I wrong ?
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But with that set-up you still need to solder new "octopusies" for every different board right ?
What would be really universal would be an edge connector that would fit most boards and then have (small) plugs there to switch there. Or am I wrong ?
You just need one "octopus" for each size of connector (18/22/28/30). Each octopus must be fully wired with plugs. Just let the wires you don't need unplugged :)
I had something similiar but a few times I had the problem that there were plugs with 5V or even 12V lying around...one time causing a short on a pcb ::) So I have built the solution with the two panels.
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how did you get 5//12 V on au unplugged plug lying aroud ???
if a plug is not plugged, ti should not get any voltage. power is comming from the test bench to the PCB. not in the other way
if you have voltage on unplugged wire, that's because you alredy have a short on your PCB.
anyway just add some unwired//isolated housing to the test bench to host the un-necessary plugs, or better than that use fully isolated plugs
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There are pcb's that have for example power on pin 5 , 6 and 7 (to distribute the load on the trace)
so of you feed the power on pin 5, then pin 6 and 7 from the octopus have that power also because its interconnected through the pcb..
if those are just hanging around, then you have a risk of shorting them with something
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There are pcb's that have for example power on pin 5 , 6 and 7 (to distribute the load on the trace)
so of you feed the power on pin 5, then pin 6 and 7 from the octopus have that power also because its interconnected through the pcb..
if those are just hanging around, then you have a risk of shorting them with something
Exactly!
PLUS there might be more pins with voltages you don't know because you don't know the pinout of the PCB.
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while i still don't quite understand that octopus thing you've been talking about (hopefully thorsten will have some time to explain it to me "live" when i deliver his stuff), i've gone through my box of adapters in the meantime to take pictures of the three most common ones. here's what i have, let me start with two adapters for the msg slot of my testing station :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/6964619727_d472a5f118_b_d.jpg)
that's a link directly from the station to the pcb. would it be a good idea to have an msg to jamma adapter first? and then from jamma to the individual pcb?
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7063/6964620459_44d1077541_b_d.jpg)
up next are two different adapters for the tv ideal slot, one which looks like that ...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6964621805_33d5ec4dbe_b_d.jpg)
... and another one which looks like that :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7191/6818500780_7148dfbc8e_b_d.jpg)
what is the difference between those two adapters? as i've said, both fit into the tv ideal slot with a "fingerboard" (if you call it like that) of 30 possible connections!
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just realized something: could it be that this yama adapter is in fact a jamma adapter for the tv ideal slot?
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6964621805_33d5ec4dbe_b_d.jpg)
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that last one looks like that is indeed a jamma
and it says "part jamma" which i see as this is the part side, and the other side is the solders side..
there will be something you can use here in your alusticker package ;)
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there will be something you can use here in your alusticker package ;)
hmm, what could that be? ;) thx etienne, you rock as always!
anyway, today i fired up the testing station for the first time and i wanted to start with that yama adapter and a jamma klax pcb, but there was a slight problem :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6820945324_ae7781487c_b_d.jpg)
it just wouldn't fit! i've checked the wiring against the jamma pinout yesterday and everything seemed to be a perfect match, i just wonder what's wrong. unfortunately, i don't have any other jamma pcb to test the connector on. any ideas?
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6967065851_4bc08514f2_b_d.jpg)
a little bit frustrated, i pulled out an untested popeye pcb i got from toralf "timepilot" a couple of weeks ago (which included a right of return of it wasn't working). amongst the tons of connectors that came with the testing station there was also one labeled popeye which i slipped into the tv ideal slot of the station. measured voltages on the connector and everything was as it's supposed to be. so i switched off the testing station, hooked up the pcb and fired the station on again. at first there was a sync problem on the screen, but after adjusting sync on one of the knobs, here's what i got :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6967065023_4373f9b339_b_d.jpg)
from what i can tell, the colors are not perfect, but the screen is working as it should, i can make the necessary adjustments, sound is playing fine, i'm really happy about it!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7205/6967065633_e0939ff786_b_d.jpg)
however, i've only used the left section of the entire testing station, no idea yet what the middle and the right section are good for because the left section is working fine without them. any ideas?
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Dont you read responses to your own topic ? ;)
taken from the first page of this thread...
- let's talk about the two devices on the right: the left one seems to be for AC voltages, but what about the right one: AC and DC? and what are those switches in the lower right corner good for (never seen the symbol next to the red switch)?
The left looks like a adjustable isolation transformer
the right looks like a 10 amp ajustable regulated powersupply (a "labvoeding" as we dutchies like to call it )
the white switch has two marks, "~" which i assume is AC, and "=" for DC output
The mark next to the red switch looks to me like a double pole switch, so i think it cuts the power completely when switched off, and not only one line of the two
- let's talk about the two devices on the right: the left one seems to be for AC voltages, but what about the right one: AC and DC? and what are those switches in the lower right corner good for (never seen the symbol next to the red switch)?
The left looks like a adjustable isolation transformer
yup, also called a Variac. Got one of those but never used. They can be handy when fuses keep blowing on f.i. monitors though....
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Dont you read responses to your own topic ? ;)
i do, but i still don't understand what the use of the two machines on the right is. they are both turned OFF with only the left section running and everything's working!
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OK....the varistor part can put out a variable AC (hence the name VariAC) voltage. This can only be done with a special transformer, as said called a variac. The advantage of this is that you can slowly turn up an AC voltage for f.i. a monitor. If fuses are blowing on that monitor and you don't know the cause, you can start with a low voltage and slowly turn it up. Maybe some part will start getting hot then before the fuse blows..
Now, there are two different kind of variacs (just like normal transformers). You have the "Autotransformer" type. This has a single brush contact and this type does NOT provide isolation from the mains like an isolation transformer does.
The other type has two brush contacts and these DO provide galvanic separation from the mains.
Considering what this stuff was built for it would SERIOUSLY surprise me if the one they used was the "autotransformer" type. It would just not be very logic. OR they put a separate isolation transformer in front of the variac but that would only raise cost.
As mentioned I was given the variac that my uncle used for his TV repairs for many many years, but although I own it for a couple of years now I haven't found a use for it.
IF it is NOT the autotransformer kind, it is very useful for testing monitors outside the cab since it will provide 230V or 120V or even 100V for the Nintendo (Sanyo) monitors but again ONLY if it is the right kind.
So if you understand that this has a completely different function is makes sense that the left section runs separate from the right one's...
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Note the variac section is the middle section.
The dial is very likely indicating a percentage (from 0 to 100%). You will have to check the voltage meter to see to what voltage it goes, but seeing we're in Europe and the goal of the machine I bet it goes to somewhere like 250VAC.
You can simply switch it on without connecting anything to the outlet and turn up the know and see what the voltage does. It's great to have a volt meter on the output because that's much more accurate, some variacs have a voltage dial but that's not very accurate.
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The right most section is quite simply an adjustable power supply.
The switch on the top right switches between AC and DC (DO NOT MAKE MISTAKES WITH THIS OR YOU CAN FRY ANYTHING YOU HOOK UP TO IT).
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100937/6923466837_82b7f26cb0_b/web.jpg?ver=13313232590001)
The blue arrow points to the outlets. The straight and curled line indicate that it can output both DC and AC. This depends on what you select with the switch indicated by the red arrow. The curl indicates AC the = symbol indicates DC.
The yellow arrow points to the on-off switch for this section.
IMHO this is the weak point of this system....it's pretty dangerous to have an output that can output both DC and AC. A mistake with the switch is very easily made. If I would have designed this there would be separate outputs for DC and AC so you can't make (or less risk) this mistake.
Again with the dial you set the output voltage (watch the Volt meter on the left). It IS nice to have this for testing old boards that want AC input voltages, like original Galaxian boards F.I.
Again, be extremely careful with the switch. If you feed AC into a board that expects DC you can bet you have blown a lot of parts....
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The arrow on the A (Amperes) meter on the right most section is bent....try to VERY carefully bent it back to 0....
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great detailed information, andré, thx a lot for the effort. so basically i have three independent sections which can be used for various purposes. i had originally thought that they are somehow connected and that for example the right section is for adjusting the +5V of the left section - but this is done with the unlabeled grey know of the left section.
i'll have to get / build adapters now from msg / tv ideal to jamma and learn how to use this thing properly. but from what i have already learned, having a testing station is not the worst thing that could have happened to me ... 8)
one more question (for now): what is that thing / symbol underneath the voltage display of the right section? never seen anything like it! ???
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You mean above the red arrow ? That's the European symbol for a fuse.
There's a fuse holder right there.... :)
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You mean above the red arrow ? That's the European symbol for a fuse.
nope, not the one under the ampere display on the right but under the voltage display on the left!
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That looks like a "make contact" symbol to me.
i dont know the purpose, but it could be that it only outputs voltage when you press this
Hook up a DVM and press the button while its on and see if there happens something.
ps, my earlier comment was not ment offensive, and Andre did a great job explaning it in detail :spaceace:
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It might be a "zero volt" switch to set the meter to 0 correctly ?
It indeed looks like a "push down makes contact, spring loaded will jump back up" button indeed ;) But it's use is not clear from this IMHO...
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anyway, today i fired up the testing station for the first time and i wanted to start with that yama adapter and a jamma klax pcb, but there was a slight problem :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6820945324_ae7781487c_b_d.jpg)
it just wouldn't fit! i've checked the wiring against the jamma pinout yesterday and everything seemed to be a perfect match, i just wonder what's wrong. unfortunately, i don't have any other jamma pcb to test the connector on. any ideas?
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6967065851_4bc08514f2_b_d.jpg)
I got this kind of problems a couple of time
there is two way to handle this:
1) cut your pcb board :evil: :-[ :-X
just the little corner piece with a Dremel tool
2) Cut the end of your adapters and it will fit !!
Please choose the second option ;) it will be better
;D
By the way i'm the new owner of ZORG TESTING STATION !!!
sound like a super vilain movies !!!!
Incredible tool !!
I'will add some little modification
This way (in french )
http://lejrs.e-monsite.com/pages/content/banc-de-test.html (http://lejrs.e-monsite.com/pages/content/banc-de-test.html)
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http://translate.google.nl/translate?sl=fr&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=nl&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Flejrs.e-monsite.com%2Fpages%2Fcontent%2Fbanc-de-test.html&act=url
Same page translated....
Is Zorg going to mass-produce these ? ;) I want one :)
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unfortunately Zorg made only one PCB Testing Station
:-[
And it's mine
;D
But it's not so hard to create a Testing Station from scratch
just need some time and tools to do a proper thing.
By the way thank's for the translation
:wink:
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Is Zorg going to mass-produce these ? ;) I want one :)
nope, I'm currently running out of time trying to mass product another thing ;).
furthermore, as old school said, it's an easy task to make such a simple "mastermind" testing station. just some time and patience needed.
just solder on each pin of the jamma connector 2 wires instead of just one as usual, then solder one of the wire to one plug, then wire the other one to his dedicated destination (joy, sound, button, video.... etc...)
NB this one can be improved in a lot of ways.
direct voltage control and fine tunning
additional volatage for some specific PCBs that requires other voltages that the classics 5/12 V
sound control and or amplification
video sync control (instead of using the available settings from the monitor)
etc etc....
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unfortunately, i'll have to start with something unexpected and not so funny this time: i broke the little finger of my right hand yesterday during the sports lesson :'(. but not only that, it was also dislocated in various spots and the tendons are torn! luckily though, it's the right hand's finger (i'm left-handed), but nevertheless i'm handicapped and using the computer's mouse with my left hand is just something i'm not used to. with that being said, don't exect too many posts over the course of the next few weeks, using the computer like that is pretty annyoing at the moment!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/6975035042_fd84736258_b_d.jpg)
however, this did not hold me off from going on a short roadtrip today. normally, i would have postponed it, but the stuff i bought was stored in an old barn which is going to be torn down soon, so i had to get it out! i did not discover the usual "green energy" today, but something slighty different :arrow:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7054/6975035344_e448eef264_b_d.jpg)
what looks like some kind of extraterrestrial communication attempt is in fact the satellite earth station of intelsat (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erdfunkstelle_Fuchsstadt) - pretty impressive if you ask me!
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8161/7121118031_b4ec7edf61_b_d.jpg)
but i was not here to watch satellite television :P, i was on a mission to add slighty smaller (and different) devices to superully's superduper pcb testing station. i'm extremely happy with the catch, but since i haven't been able to unload the stuff and install everything yet (and will probably not be for some time because of the plaster on my right hand), here's a quick teaser photo!
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8147/7121118313_7886b862b4_b_d.jpg)
gotta stop typing now, finger's itching ...
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I have a large amount of arcade PCB adapters for this system, did you want/need them? They all came from Holland years ago...
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Yeah....we heard evil stories while we were at SCS about a lot of UK guys totally robbing our country of all it's arcade treasures !!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
(OK, we were sleeping at that time ;))
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hahahahh! yes, guilty i'm afraid!
But very few people were interested in old games in those days, we were saving them from the scrap pile!
So, do you want/need these adapters? there's a lot... they are labelled
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But very few people were interested in old games in those days, we were saving them from the scrap pile!
Yeah we didn't take the red pill yet then....and indeed they were saved !! :)
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So, do you want/need these adapters? there's a lot... they are labelled
great offer, thx, i'd gladly take them! i'll shoot you a pm ...
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If anyone can identify these and has a use for them, then please let me know. These are the complete adapters that i have left.. I have tonnes more incomplete/part adapters/fingerboards if you need more connectors etc..
QTY 7 - Type 1:
(http://www.andysarcade.net/pix/DLF/adapttype1.JPG)
QTY 67 - Type 2: (Alfa Selectra Spa - Italian) ?
(http://www.andysarcade.net/pix/DLF/adapttype2.JPG)
QTY 30 - Type 3:
(http://www.andysarcade.net/pix/DLF/adapttype3.JPG)
QTY 3 - Type 4: (is this TV ideal? only one is jamma wired 2 are just boards)
(http://www.andysarcade.net/pix/DLF/adapttype4.JPG)
QTY 11 - Type 5: (MSG ?)
(http://www.andysarcade.net/pix/DLF/adapttype5.JPG)
So, can you idetify the pinout standard for each?
I'm sure i had another box of these somewhere but can't find it at the moment... if you made a rig to accept the type 2 adapters you have a ready made collection :)
lmk..