Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Technical Area => Topic started by: gyruss on January 25, 2011, 07:40:08 PM
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Okay, total noob question but i have to learn this someday, so here we go:
i just bought a multimeter to check some voltages on my spy hunter. This is the first time i ever used one and i have trouble setting the thing up for use.
I want to check the voltage going out from the power supply board to the rest of the machine. But i don't really understand the difference between the settings. For example: Do i set it up for DC voltage measurements, DC current measurements or AC voltage measurements?
And do you guys know any tutorials? I already checked varcadegames on youtube but i need something even more basic.
Thanks for your help!
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In this case you need DC voltage
DC is + and - (dutch: gelijkspanning)
AC is ~ (dutch: wisselspanning)
DC Current is Ampere
hmm basics, let me search a bit and come back to you
EDIT:
Here is a start.... 8)
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/basics/starting-out.htm (http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/basics/starting-out.htm)
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Thanks Etienne!
So i checked the voltages on one connecter going from the power supply to the sound board and an absolute position board.
I did this by putting the black test lead on the ground (Y-W) and the red lead on one of the 3 5v openings (all red).
Is this the right way? I checked the manual for the right colors of the wire.
The voltages that should be +5v (3 times) read 5.8v and the one that should be 12V reads 0.10V. So the 12V is way off??
Still have to check the other connector.
Oh, and i discovered something else: There are a lot of grounding wires going from the power supply chassis to pcb's and other parts, but one wire isn't going anywhere because the end is broken, could it be that this wire has to go to the power supply board?
Edit: I checked the other connector: the one that should be 5V is 5.6V and the one that should be 12V is 0.11V.
Why is the 12V one so different? Did i do something wrong??
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5.6 on a place where you need 5 is good i would say
but 0.11 where you need 12 sounds to me like you found your problem ;D
about the wire, hard to tell where it supposed to go, but a good thing is to check all the parts that need ground (wich is all parts ;D) are connected to ground.
a simple way of doing that is the continuetest on your meter (diodetest).
put one test lead on a metal part (does not matter what, they should all be grounded) and point the other testlead to all parts ground connector.
if you hear a beep, then there is contact with ground, and that should be ok then.
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Could it be that the 12V is AC ? You first have to check the manual/schematics to see what it should be...
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http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzjMIcER4EU
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Thanks for the info guys!
Some guys on klov told me that the 12V is used for the coin-door light and the sound, which both don't work: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=167166&page=3 Don't know if the 12v is AC, will check that too.
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Thanks for the info guys!
Some guys on klov told me that the 12V is used for the coin-door light and the sound, which both don't work: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=167166&page=3 Don't know if the 12v is AC, will check that too.
not sure, but my guess is no, i think its DC.
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As my teacher used to say:
Meten = weten
Gokken = brokken.
So no guessing here ! ;D ;D
Pieter, switch the meter to AC voltage measuring and try to measure at the 12V points again, see what you get....
Aren't there any manuals/schematics...?
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I'm sorry daddy :oops:
Will not do it again ;D ;) :D
other nice vids:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPaTsBrd-Tg&feature=fvw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPaTsBrd-Tg&feature=fvw)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU&feature=related)
part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_o34SY77yo&feature=related)
part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0Zzoz4nM0I&feature=fvw)
part 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3R_9uFDl7A&feature=related)
part 4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUgJgK2aTG0&feature=related)
and for another night of learning basic electronics by youtube;
Connect your PC / laptop / mac / whatever you have to your TV, grab a snack, lay back and enjoy Learn ;)
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=basic+electronics&aq=0 (http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=basic+electronics&aq=0)
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Thanks for the links, very useful.
Okay, switched the meter to AC and it didn't show anything. Maybe i did something wrong?
The 12v is for the coin door light and the sound, which both don't work.
I also measured everything again using a different grounds (as a guy on klov told me to do) and got the same results.
The second thing i did, was measuring the voltage on a capacitor on the sound board (again told by some people on klov).
The voltage should be 5.1v but i've got 5.45v.
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Well, seems the 12V is bad...
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OK I checked the schematics (here: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Bally_Midway/Spy_Hunter_Parts_and%20_Operating_Manual_(Nov_1983).pdf)
Did you check any fuses first ? (PULL power cord (no, switching off is not enough!), put DVM in diode/continuity ("beep") setting and measure the two sides of all fuses.
If they all beep, they are good.
If so, measure on Connector 4 on the power supply. This is the outgoing powers to all the boards.
Put the black lead on any of the GND pins (8,9 or 10 doesn't matter which one) and keep it there for all next measurements
Now put the red lead on 3,5 and 6 and you have to read (about) 5V on all.
Then put the red lead on pin 12 which should be +12V
Next move to connector 5 and do the same measurements (so check where it says 12V in the schematic and 5V etc.
Is there a battery on there somewhere ? The schematic says pin 1 of conn. 4 carries a battery voltage....
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okay, checked the fuses again, my meter doesn't have a beep (cheap one from Gamma) but i got something on screen by all of them. And on the outside they all look undamaged.
What do you mean by measuring the connector? I think i already did that or do i have to take out the connectors from the pcb board?
I got 5.6v on the 5v and 0.2 on the 12v. for both connectors.
And yes it has a battery, when i put the red lead on that pin and the black one on the ground it reads 2.54v, the manual say it should be 3.6vdc.
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okay, checked the fuses again, my meter doesn't have a beep (cheap one from Gamma) but i got something on screen by all of them. And on the outside they all look undamaged.
What do you mean by measuring the connector? I think i already did that or do i have to take out the connectors from the pcb board?
I got 5.6v on the 5v and 0.2 on the 12v. for both connectors.
And yes it has a battery, when i put the red lead on that pin and the black one on the ground it reads 2.54v, the manual say it should be 3.6vdc.
No beeb = No good ;D
is the display different when you put it in ohm test if you short the testleads or not ?
if yes, then maybe you can still use it to test the fuses..
or does the meter only have voltage tests, and no ohms (resistance) ?
if you got a resistance test in that thing, short the two testleads and see what you got on the screen (that means 0 ohm) and check if the fuses give the same result.
dificult to say if they are good, they can look undamaged, but still be bad.
maybe you got a pic of your hitech meter ? ;) ;D
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So many difficult questions! ;) ;)
I'll check it and make pictures as soon as i have got the time. thanks for the help so far.
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Stupid, i put the meter in the wrong position, it works now.
I checked the fuses and they are all okay.
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And the story continues, but this time i seem to have screwed thing up badly:
The people from klov told me to adjust the 5v (which was too high), when i tried doing this and started the machine again i only got 0.64v. And i can't bring it back up because adjusting the pod doesn't do anything. Could it be i blew something? The fuse on the power supply board is still intact.
Still have to get a new power supply board, rebuild the old one or get a switcher power supply, but now i'm afraid i damaged the machine even more!
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What was the procedure ?
i understand when you say , "started the machine again" that you are twisting the pot without power ?
anyway , just tell us what you did exactly please
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First i twisted the knobs with the power on but nothing happened, the voltage stayed the same, so i turned the machine off and on again..
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...
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Yes i did that both, just to be sure ;)
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just a turn on the pot, and after of and on no more 5V, did you destroy the pot ? ::)
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That's right but the people on klov told me that this is a common problem:
The pots on the PS get flakey. It is possible the wiper on the pot broke off when you turned it. Pretty common failure point.
I still think i damaged something, kinda sucks, i'll check everything again this weekend.
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So first exchange that pot.. ;)
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I'll buy a new power supply board, if i can find one.
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dont want to try a pot of € 2,- first ::)
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Yes, but i still will need a new supply because of the missing 12V.
And just to be sure, when you say pot you mean the part that i turned?
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yes sir ;)
it should look something like this :
(http://personal.ee.surrey.ac.uk/Personal/H.M/UGLabs/images/resistor_potentiometer_packaging.jpg)
these are all potmeters, just the housing is different
or you can take it out first and use the ohm meter on your multimeter and check if it is broken
I also have a switcher here for you (which i am not using atm) if you like to use that as a test..
hmm hilversum, when will i be there again ;) maybe when it snows ;D
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Yes it's the black one, below on the right.
I guess i'll start praying for snow ;) hahaha, first let me see if it's really broken.