Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Technical Area => Topic started by: Superully on December 25, 2010, 07:44:56 PM
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another one of my "famous" how to-entries ;)! this time i'd like to know how (or if) i can remove the following neckboard from the tube :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5291034986_8cce0a97c4_b_d.jpg)
i haven't tried anything yet, because i'm not sure if it can even be removed, that's why some input would be great - as always! thx guys!!!
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Normally you can "wiggle" them off..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNnbEPY7DVM&feature=BF&list=PL160A60DABEA7973C&index=25 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNnbEPY7DVM&feature=BF&list=PL160A60DABEA7973C&index=25)
Skip untill +- 2 minutes in the video..
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Just pull it backwards. Don't wiggle too much !!!
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i managed to pull of the neckboard - piece of cake if you know that it can come off and how to do it. thx guys!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/5292340651_6f8a23086b_b_d.jpg)
i pulled the chassis (it's from my paperboy) because i want to do a cap kit on the monitor (picture is distorted / shaky and colors are a little off / washed out)
two more questions:
would you replace the capacitors on the neckboard itself?
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5292939956_212d5613d6_b_d.jpg)
what about those capacitors on the little extra board which is also part of the chassis - replace 'em? (two pics of the board: one still installed, the other one already removed)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5292340535_bde14e3a30_z_d.jpg) (http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5292939868_4cfe66de0b_z_d.jpg)
i thought now that i've set up my equipment and have enough time on my hands, i could as well do some cap kits - you could even call it CAP KIT FEVER!!! unfortunately i don't have any documentation for that type of chassis, not even the guys on KLOV were able to help me out, which means i have to do this manually by taking a lot of pictures and notes!
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if you cannot find a capkit list, the you can ofcourse replace them all
a capkit is nothing more that a list of caps that have the more high faillure rate
it will not mean that this will solve your problem, there can be caps bad that are not in the kit
get what i am trying to say ?
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Yes, do all the caps now that you've got it out and are going to work on it anyway.
The caps on the neckboard are mainly in the color amplification circuit (that's what the big LM chip does) and if colors are weak (as you mention) this might help.
Also check the pots ! If some are working jittery, replace them !
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thx guys, i'll replace them all then! more capacitor questions (of a general matter) in my capacitor thread (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2263.0) soon - stay tuned! ;D
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thx guys, i'll replace them all then! more capacitor questions (of a general matter) in my capacitor thread (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2263.0) soon - stay tuned! ;D
This monitor looks like a Selti dual frequency 15/25 kHz automatic.
If the picture is shaky I'd check the power supply section of the monitor first, making sure the voltages out of it are all correct and steady.
Looking at the neckboard, I'd try replacing the black capacitor which looks in bad shape, near the three power transistors. Then I'd check the value of the three power resistors: these usually tend to go high resistance over time and the result is poor colors on screen.
Matteo
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This monitor looks like a Selti dual frequency 15/25 kHz automatic.
here (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=155490&highlight=paperboy+monitor) is my thread on klov about the monitor!
Looking at the neckboard, I'd try replacing the black capacitor which looks in bad shape, near the three power transistors. Then I'd check the value of the three power resistors: these usually tend to go high resistance over time and the result is poor colors on screen.
black capacitor on the neckboard in bad shape? which ones is that? and what's a power resistor? (don't bash my, i'm trying to learn here)
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The big fat blue resistors (three next to each other in the corner).
The cap Italian means is likely the one right next to the three transistors. (there is almost no outside cover on the top anymore, this could indicate it's bad AND because it's so near the transistors and power resistors it has been taking a lot of heat.
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This monitor looks like a Selti dual frequency 15/25 kHz automatic.
here (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=155490&highlight=paperboy+monitor) is my thread on klov about the monitor!
Looking at the neckboard, I'd try replacing the black capacitor which looks in bad shape, near the three power transistors. Then I'd check the value of the three power resistors: these usually tend to go high resistance over time and the result is poor colors on screen.
black capacitor on the neckboard in bad shape? which ones is that? and what's a power resistor? (don't bash my, i'm trying to learn here)
I've taken a look at your post on the other forum. You have an Intervideo dual frequency, which is basically a clone of the Selti. Paperboy uses it a 25 kHz (mid res). At that time the two manufacturers (both italian) were cooperating on monitor design, so they're pretty much the same.
Matteo
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The big fat blue resistors (three next to each other in the corner).
The cap Italian means is likely the one right next to the three transistors. (there is almost no outside cover on the top anymore, this could indicate it's bad AND because it's so near the transistors and power resistors it has been taking a lot of heat.
Correct.
Matteo
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I've taken a look at your post on the other forum. You have an Intervideo dual frequency, which is basically a clone of the Selti. Paperboy uses it a 25 kHz (mid res). At that time the two manufacturers (both italian) were cooperating on monitor design, so they're pretty much the same.
thx matteo for checking it out. are there any manuals / schematics for the monitor?
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The big fat blue resistors (three next to each other in the corner).
The cap Italian means is likely the one right next to the three transistors. (there is almost no outside cover on the top anymore, this could indicate it's bad AND because it's so near the transistors and power resistors it has been taking a lot of heat.
guys, sorry, but you see me confused here. one persons says blue, the other black, one person says capacitor, the other resistor ??? let me show you some pics again which i took for reference :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5294192086_0f8f50366a_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5294191768_4cae63b2bf_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5293595415_dfe5166056_b_d.jpg)
oh, and one more thing: as you can see on the neckboard pcb, the cut green knob on the lower right is missing. i'm sure it can be replaced, but where can i find parts like that? thx for your help! :-*
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We were talking about the neckboard, weren't we ?
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5294191768_4cae63b2bf_b_d.jpg)
Top right corner, 3 thick blue things=resistors
Right below them are three transistors in a row. (The one's with the meta "cooling plates" mounted on them)
Left of that there is the cap we Italian means...it's C18.
No need for the knob, you can move them from one pot to the other (simply pull one out) or simply adjust the pot (if needed) with a screwdriver.
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Left of that there is the cap we Italian means...it's C18.
thx for pointing it out to me. so we're talking C18 here (i was on the right track). but to be honest, this cap looks totally fine to me - i can't (physically) see any damage. i'm going to replace it nevertheless though!
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thx matteo for checking it out. are there any manuals / schematics for the monitor?
Send me your e-mail and I'll reply with a Xmas gift ;)
Matteo
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thx for pointing it out to me. so we're talking C18 here (i was on the right track). but to be honest, this cap looks totally fine to me - i can't (physically) see any damage. i'm going to replace it nevertheless though!
Yes, that happens alot, they look fine, but as you can see under the transistor, the board is a little brownish..
that is many times comming from heat, so you can bet that after all those years next to a heatsource that its dried out.
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here are the results of the cap kit (i'm also posting this in my paperboy thread; remember: the picture wasn't perfect (shaky etc.)). while the screen looks nice now (except for the bad colors which are caused by something else), it didn't fix one problem which i had hoped it would: the vertical size. as you can see on the following picture, the screen is too wide and i wasn't able to adjust it with any knob turning >:(
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5323200699_080e913eeb_b_d.jpg)
is it possible that this is caused by a bad big blue? there are two of them in the bottom of the cabinet, one on and one next to the power supply. i didn't even know there were games with two big blues. anyway, i've already ordered replacements (as spares) from bob roberts, perhaps i should exchange them now! could this be the cause of the screen problem?
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5323805850_a5437b2224_b_d.jpg)
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I dont think so, the big blue is not in the circuit of the monitor but at the low voltage area to your game board
the monitor just goes to the 110 transformer, so i doubt this has something to do with the screen width..
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I only see one big blue on that last picture.
Although it can be bad, I have yet to come across a bad one.
Big Blue's (the same as Bob Roberts sells, can now also be ordered from www.flipperwinkel.nl by the way).
I'm not saying it is impossible but it is not very likely that this is the cause.
What you need to find is the vertical width coil and adjust that with a PLASTIC trimmer (not a screwdriver, you will damage it !!!). The width coil can also be already broken...
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What you need to find is the vertical width coil and adjust that with a PLASTIC trimmer (not a screwdriver, you will damage it !!!). The width coil can also be already broken...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuTlChCko4k&feature=BF&list=PL160A60DABEA7973C&index=27 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuTlChCko4k&feature=BF&list=PL160A60DABEA7973C&index=27)
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I only see one big blue on that last picture.
what's the other big blue thing on the right then?
Although it can be bad, I have yet to come across a bad one.
i've heard some people say the same thing, i wonder why everyones saying "you have to exchange those big blues" then? ask sascha ;D
Big Blue's (the same as Bob Roberts sells, can now also be ordered from www.flipperwinkel.nl by the way).
where exactly?
btw, on BR page i found the following: "but a bad Big Blue will manifest many other symptoms from the game being totally dead to the start LEDs flashing to a loud audible hum & more". i do have a loud hum from one of the speakers ...
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What you need to find is the vertical width coil and adjust that with a PLASTIC trimmer (not a screwdriver, you will damage it !!!). The width coil can also be already broken...
i remember thosep lastic trimmers you brought along to my place - where can i get those? why not use a screwdriver, why can it damage the width coil. in the video that etienne posted (thx!) the guy says you can also use an allen wrench - would you recommend that?
btw, here's what a monitor chassis looks like that W.O.L sold you as "we have installed a brand new monitor chassis and it was damn hard to find for a med-res monitor like it is used in paperboy"! :shock: :shock: :shock:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5323461625_6335d03161_b_d.jpg)
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Oops, I had to scroll the window to see it, yes that's another big blue....
No idea, is that standard according to the manual?
BR is _selling_ those things......
YES they _can_ be bad, but I haven't found a bad one....which doesn't mean it's a bad thing to replace them preventively....but there is also no need to "howl with the wolves" as we say....it's not like a "magic trick" that solves all problems.
In fact, I don't believe that much in blindly replacing a big blue anymore (or any other caps). Get out your fluke, put it in AC Voltage setting and measure across the big blue's terminals (powered on of course). Tell me what you see and I tell you if it's bad or not.
The monitors you cap-kitted had obvious problems. But if you have a nice working monitor, why bother ? f.i. the MB monitor is great, and I replaced one cap....
Etienne is right: The big blue is filtering the power that runs to the game PCB's. The width of the monitor has little to do with that. The monitor is supplied with 110V.
However, of course it _is_ possible that video circuits on a game PCB are influenced by a badly filtered supply voltage (when a big blue is bad f.i.) and that could cause weird problems on the screen, but not that the width is simply too large.
The thing is: check the basics first. The width of an (old) monitor cannot be adjusted with a pot, there is almost always the width-coil for that. The monitor manual/schematics should point you where it is...
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What you need to find is the vertical width coil and adjust that with a PLASTIC trimmer (not a screwdriver, you will damage it !!!). The width coil can also be already broken...
i remember thosep lastic trimmers you brought along to my place - where can i get those? why not use a screwdriver, why can it damage the width coil. in the video that etienne posted (thx!) the guy says you can also use an allen wrench - would you recommend that?
btw, here's what a monitor chassis looks like that W.O.L sold you as "we have installed a brand new monitor chassis and it was damn hard to find for a med-res monitor like it is used in paperboy"! :shock: :shock: :shock:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5323461625_6335d03161_b_d.jpg)
Mmmm, I've seen worse. In theory it could be a factory mod....
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO no allen wrench, which $%(&^(&*%^ is in that video ?
The thing is that the core of the coil is ceramic which is very fragile and it will BREAK if you use a metal tool.
MABYE, VERY MAYBE it would work if you have a brand new coil, but when it's as old as the monitor, it's bound to be pretty sticky.
Also: if you would use a metal it will influence the function of the coil. So, you will adjust it, look at the screen, think it's OK, remove the tool and the size changes again....but this is only a secondary draw-back.
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And BR sells these tool-kits like I had with me...and I think RS has them too.
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The width of an (old) monitor cannot be adjusted with a pot, there is almost always the width-coil for that. The monitor manual/schematics should point you where it is...
remember: i don't have a manual ;). but, i think i might have found it :arrow:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5007/5324095186_c0e43ee94d_b_d.jpg)
on the pcb in front of it it says H. LINE (you can at least read parts of it on the picture). i can't stick anything in there at the very top, but there is this rectangular opening in front of it. would that be the "insertion point"?
and what about those plastic trimmers? where can i get them?
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And BR sells these tool-kits like I had with me...and I think RS has them too.
now all i need to know is what they are called ...
speaking of rs online: i had missed a couple of caps with my first order, so i placed another one. today THREE packages arrived from three different rs locations - of course all with free shipping. i love rs online :-*
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5207/5323507149_ed19729aaa_b_d.jpg)
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here are the results of the cap kit (i'm also posting this in my paperboy thread; remember: the picture wasn't perfect (shaky etc.)). while the screen looks nice now (except for the bad colors which are caused by something else)
Bad colors ? Please post a pic of a color bar screenshot or at least a picture in which all three main colors can be seen. Are you sure that in the signals connector R, G and B inputs are matching with the game wiring and are not mixed up ? Please check.
it didn't fix one problem which i had hoped it would: the vertical size. as you can see on the following picture, the screen is too wide and i wasn't able to adjust it with any knob turning
Vertical size ? To me it looks like a horizontal size problem. If turning the H size pot has no or little effect it may also be that they mounted this monitor board on a incompatible yoke. You should check what kind of yoke you have in there. It is usually written on a label on the yoke itself. Or at least measure the yoke resistance with a meter.
is it possible that this is caused by a bad big blue?
No.
Matteo
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Etienne is right: The big blue is filtering the power that runs to the game PCB's. The width of the monitor has little to do with that. The monitor is supplied with 110V.
110 V ? Please double check this. Intervideo monitors are usually supplied with 220/240 V AC unless Ully's got a special model manufactured for USA market.
Matteo
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now all i need to know is what they are called ...
TV Alignment Tool Kit :
(http://www.tecratools.com/media/productImages/ss_size1/22150.jpg)
At RS online a big set :
(http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/largeimages/RD736074-03.jpg)
Click the pic ;) (http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=736-074&x=5&y=26)
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Vertical size ? To me it looks like a horizontal size problem. If turning the H size pot has no or little effect it may also be that they mounted this monitor board on a incompatible yoke. You should check what kind of yoke you have in there. It is usually written on a label on the yoke itself. Or at least measure the yoke resistance with a meter.
when i first reinstalled the monitor, the picture was upside down. with the help of some guys on klov, i fixed the problem by moving the yoke wire to the "reverse yoke" connector - see [url?http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=120207&highlight=paperboy]here[/url]!
then the graphic issues started. at first the colors were correct, but when i tried another board and exchanged some roms like suggested, i suddenly had most of the screen red and some graphic elements missing. i also have a thread about this on klov - see here (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=155480&highlight=paperboy)!
if you need any more pictures (color bars etc.), please let me know. what would be the first thing to check now? because i've swapped boards / roms around, i'm pretty sure the graphics issue is to be found on the board, regarding the horizontal problem i don't know! what matteo says makes sense: why mess with the vertical coil when it looks like a horizontal problem?
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(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5007/5324095186_c0e43ee94d_b_d.jpg)
Looks like you can simply (carefully) turn the top (knob, the part that is running JUST under the brown wire on your pic)....BUT I"M NOT REALLY SURE..... carefully give it a try, see if you can turn it at all and see if it has any effect on the screen.
This size is usually adjusted with a WIDTH coil...thus it influences horizontal deflection... (width is used because they go out from the "normal" horizontal position of a monitor).
From Ully's screen picture you can clearly see that the picture is "overlapping" on both left and right sides. And he mentioned he can't get it to fit, so thus I thought he's have to search (and adjust for the width coil.....)
Vertical size ("height") is usually adjusted with a pot.
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And you should surf more Ully:
http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/wc.html
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And you should surf more Ully
don't force me to :D
btw, i've just gone through the test screen where blank screens in the colors red, green, blue, white and grey are shown. result: all of those screen are GREEN!!! :o (just the writing underneath is red).
perhaps i should film a short video!!!
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Looks like you can simply (carefully) turn the top (knob, the part that is running JUST under the brown wire on your pic)....BUT I"M NOT REALLY SURE..... carefully give it a try, see if you can turn it at all and see if it has any effect on the screen.
i've gently tried to turn the knob - no movement in any direction. i don't even know if that is a knob at all. the width coil itself is a little bit wobbly, i don't know whether applying too much pressure is the way to go. am i supposed to put something into that "deep pit" in front of it? :twisted:
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am i supposed to put something into that "deep pit" in front of it? :twisted:
NO.
that looks to me that that is just a piece of ferrite, there is no ajustment there..... i think ???
ferrite is very brittle..., if you stick a screwdriver in there....
isnt the "knob" just a cover that protects the (ajustment) coil ?
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And you should surf more Ully
don't force me to :D
btw, i've just gone through the test screen where blank screens in the colors red, green, blue, white and grey are shown. result: all of those screen are GREEN!!! :o (just the writing underneath is red).
perhaps i should film a short video!!!
Perhaps we should tackle one problem at a time...
IIRC you don't have a manual because this is a pretty rare mid-res Hantarex/Intervideo ?
Are you sure our friend Andreas doesn't have the manual somewhere here ?
http://andysarcade.de/gen_unicab.html
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Can you make a better pic with the yellow and green and black wires out of the way ?
I fact, if it's ferrite it could well be what needs to be adjusted, but normally the adjustable ferrite is inside that tall thing with the wires around...
However I do seem to read the letters ADJ (adjust) right there ?
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I just went through my manual of a MTC900, and i need to say that i doubt now what i sayd before...
the arrow at "24" points to that spot...
dont know if its the same that your monitor uses, but mine also has"a "cap" ..
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/horizontal.jpg)
a straight shot like andre suggested would be nice ... ;)
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Yeah, seeing the square "hole" size it's very likely that it should be adjusted there. Maybe you have something plastic that will fit in there Ully ?....(that sounded weird).....again, be gentle.....(even weirder)....
What does 24 say in the manual Etienne ?
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Yeah, seeing the square "hole" size it's very likely that it should be adjusted there. Maybe you have something plastic that will fit in there Ully ?....(that sounded weird).....again, be gentle.....(even weirder)....
LOL :lol:
take a piece of plastic or circuit board and "file" it to the correct size, thats what i used to do with trimmers in my FM transmitter..
(ofcourse file away all the cupper in case of a piece of old circuit board... ;))
What does 24 say in the manual Etienne ?
(http://www.opdenkelder.com/pics/horizontal24.JPG)
sounds to me the ajustment we are looking for ;)
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take a piece of plastic or circuit board and "file" it to the correct size, thats what i used to do with trimmers in my FM transmitter..
thx a lot for your help, guys! just got home (was out tonight) and right now i'm too tired to try this, but i'll find something to stick in :P tomorrow morning - then i'll report back with results.
like andré said: one thing after the other. first the width issue, then the color / graphics stuff! thx again :spaceace:
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ok, after a lot of trying / filing / fitting i finally found a strongenough piece of plastic. with it, i am able to turn that pot. here's the however: the width of the screen only changes slightly, sometimes the word PRESS at the left side of the screen reads just SS, sometimes it's al least half an R and ESS - but not more. i can turn the pot just by mere fractions but i can also turn it in bigger dimensions - the result stays the same. i can't check perfectly what happens when i turn the knob in varying degrees, because i don't have a large enough transportable mirror here to turn and check at the same time, so it's turning at the back, checking at the front, turning at the back, ... you get the picture.
from what i can tell right now, this isn't working as it is supposed to be :'(. is it possible that the width coil is damaged (as i've stated above, it's wobbly)?
btw, the color problem might indeed just be a matter of color correction on the monitor's neckboard, at least that would be an easy fix!
suggestions?
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ok, after a lot of trying / filing / fitting i finally found a strongenough piece of plastic. with it, i am able to turn that pot. here's the however: the width of the screen only changes slightly, sometimes the word PRESS at the left side of the screen reads just SS, sometimes it's al least half an R and ESS - but not more. i can turn the pot just by mere fractions but i can also turn it in bigger dimensions - the result stays the same. i can't check perfectly what happens when i turn the knob in varying degrees, because i don't have a large enough transportable mirror here to turn and check at the same time, so it's turning at the back, checking at the front, turning at the back, ... you get the picture.
from what i can tell right now, this isn't working as it is supposed to be :'(. is it possible that the width coil is damaged (as i've stated above, it's wobbly)?
btw, the color problem might indeed just be a matter of color correction on the monitor's neckboard, at least that would be an easy fix!
suggestions?
What is the size of your Paperboy CRT ? I'm afraid the dual frequency Intervideo monitor you are using is for 25" and above sizes. So if your CRT is smaller, you will never make it fit unless you change appropriate components on the monitor. But this would be a total different story, not just a matter of tweaking some pots (or coils). And btw, I never had to touch any coils on Intervideo/Selti monitors, unlike other old monitors as Hantarex 900 / 900E.
Matteo
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What is the size of your Paperboy CRT ? I'm afraid the dual frequency Intervideo monitor you are using is for 25" and above sizes. So if your CRT is smaller, you will never make it fit unless you change appropriate components on the monitor. But this would be a total different story, not just a matter of tweaking some pots (or coils). And btw, I never had to touch any coils on Intervideo/Selti monitors, unlike other old monitors as Hantarex 900 / 900E.
without removing the glass and getting an exact measure i roughly get 48 centimeters which equals 19 inch. so basically what you're saying is that the monitor installed does not match the chassis?
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Ully, why don't you ask Winni from the german forums? He is a professionally trained TV repair guy with years and years of experience with arcade monitors. He helped a lot of people with their troubles over there...
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Ully, why don't you ask Winni from the german forums? He is a professionally trained TV repair guy with years and years of experience with arcade monitors. He helped a lot of people with their troubles over there...
good idea, sascha! i should contact him as well, but let's also see what happens here :D
on to the other problem with the colors :arrow:
i've said that some colors are missing. i've tried adjusting that with the pots on the back, but this is proving to be difficult. let me tell you what i've got:
- 1 pot labeled BLUE DRIVE
- 1 pot labeled RED DRIVE
- 1 pot labeled RED CUT OFF
- 1 pot labeled GREEN CUT OFF
- 1 pot labeled BLUE CUT OFF
first of all i'd like to know the difference between DRIVE and CUT OFF. does DRIVE boost the colors and CUT OFF removes them? why is there no GREEN CUT OFF?
anyway, when i enter the test screens i get screens for each individual color. it starts with RED. so i adjust the pots on the back to get a perfect red. when i then move on to GREEN and / or BLUE, those colors are totally off (something grey-ish). so i thought i'd better start with the WHITE test screen. set everything up so that i had a bright clear white, moved on to the next test screen which is GREY - still a nice grey. started again with RED, but from what i remember red was green now (or something other than red).
resume: i can get each color i desire, not just all of them at the same time. is there a good method on how to start this adjustment? which color first, cut off or drive, contrast, brightness, whatever?
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Ully , ajusting an arcade monitor (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUL5TiUYAss&feature=BF&list=PL160A60DABEA7973C&index=16)
I downloaded all these video's and they are on my FTP, so i would say, download them all ;D
anyway, i remember that you upload a bunch of video's to my FTP, and alot of these where in your upload so you should have them.
I dont know if paperboy has testscreens, in anotherway you should hookup a PC that can output 15khz signals by for example soft15khz software (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=bcd4c5227a4866425574aeab3aed7279&topic=66402.0) and then run nokia monitor test and see if all your primary colors are correct (R G and B)
(i remember to read something about all green in a previouse post, so the question is , is it the board or is it a monitor problem)
Nokia Monitor Test (http://freepctech.com/rode/004.shtml) is a excelent test program, i used it always when i repaired beamers for HP, Coretronics and BenQ
[remind myself mode on]
Build a testrig from an old spare pc with 15khz software and nokia monitor test :D
[/remind myself mode off]
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What is the size of your Paperboy CRT ? I'm afraid the dual frequency Intervideo monitor you are using is for 25" and above sizes. So if your CRT is smaller, you will never make it fit unless you change appropriate components on the monitor. But this would be a total different story, not just a matter of tweaking some pots (or coils). And btw, I never had to touch any coils on Intervideo/Selti monitors, unlike other old monitors as Hantarex 900 / 900E.
without removing the glass and getting an exact measure i roughly get 48 centimeters which equals 19 inch. so basically what you're saying is that the monitor installed does not match the chassis?
Yes, you will never be able to make it fit horizontally as it is now.
Matteo
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on to the other problem with the colors :arrow:
i've said that some colors are missing. i've tried adjusting that with the pots on the back, but this is proving to be difficult. let me tell you what i've got:
- 1 pot labeled BLUE DRIVE
- 1 pot labeled RED DRIVE
- 1 pot labeled RED CUT OFF
- 1 pot labeled GREEN CUT OFF
- 1 pot labeled BLUE CUT OFF
first of all i'd like to know the difference between DRIVE and CUT OFF. does DRIVE boost the colors and CUT OFF removes them? why is there no GREEN CUT OFF?
anyway, when i enter the test screens i get screens for each individual color. it starts with RED. so i adjust the pots on the back to get a perfect red. when i then move on to GREEN and / or BLUE, those colors are totally off (something grey-ish). so i thought i'd better start with the WHITE test screen. set everything up so that i had a bright clear white, moved on to the next test screen which is GREY - still a nice grey. started again with RED, but from what i remember red was green now (or something other than red).
resume: i can get each color i desire, not just all of them at the same time. is there a good method on how to start this adjustment? which color first, cut off or drive, contrast, brightness, whatever?
The proper calibration of the video amplifier section of your monitor requires some technical skills and is described on this manual (http://anormal-tracker.de/downloadcounter.php?user=36312&file=http://www.andysarcade.de/data/coinop/videogames/raster%20monitors/intervideo/intervideo%20dual%20frequency%20monitor%20instruction%20manual%20-%20hires.pdf) (100 MB) on pages 8 and 9.
However, if you have a fault in one of three the color amplifiers on the neckboard you will never be able to do it anyway. The troubleshooting of this part is described in the pdf "mancirc_en" I've sent you via e-mail, on pages 28 and 29.
Good luck,
Matteo
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Ully , ajusting an arcade monitor (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUL5TiUYAss&feature=BF&list=PL160A60DABEA7973C&index=16)
I downloaded all these video's and they are on my FTP, so i would say, download them all ;D
anyway, i remember that you upload a bunch of video's to my FTP, and alot of these where in your upload so you should have them.
I dont know if paperboy has testscreens, in anotherway you should hookup a PC that can output 15khz signals by for example soft15khz software (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=bcd4c5227a4866425574aeab3aed7279&topic=66402.0) and then run nokia monitor test and see if all your primary colors are correct (R G and B)
(i remember to read something about all green in a previouse post, so the question is , is it the board or is it a monitor problem)
Nokia Monitor Test (http://freepctech.com/rode/004.shtml) is a excelent test program, i used it always when i repaired beamers for HP, Coretronics and BenQ
Yes, I agree with Etienne. Since you are not sure your Paperboy board is outputting correct colors, you should now use another known working source to test your monitor.
Bye,
Matteo
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If i read all this , it looks like the tube, yoke and chassis are not compatible with eachother in one or another way..
can't you just ditch this monitor and grab another monitor from the shelf ? ::)
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Yes, you will never be able to make it fit horizontally as it is now.
that sucks!!!
The proper calibration of the video amplifier section of your monitor requires some technical skills
i'm afraid that is beyond my skills :(
I dont know if paperboy has testscreens, in anotherway you should hookup a PC that can output 15khz signals by for example soft15khz software (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=bcd4c5227a4866425574aeab3aed7279&topic=66402.0) and then run nokia monitor test and see if all your primary colors are correct (R G and B)
paperboy DOES have test screens and the colors were perfect at the start of this (the picture itself wasn't though), then i had the problem with the graphics error, i swapped boards to test another one and since then i have the color issues!
can't you just ditch this monitor and grab another monitor from the shelf ? ::)
remember: med-res monitor! in fact, i do have a spare med-res monitor here, but it says "APB" on the screen - even when it's turned off ;). i could try it, but i would have to make some new connectors. btw, i don't even know whether it's working or not!
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does the game look real ugly on a standard lowres monitor ?
in that case you probably need to find another chassis....
or does the chassis from the other fit on this tube ?
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does the game look real ugly on a standard lowres monitor ?
in that case you probably need to find another chassis....
don't know, but i guess there's a reason why the game needs a med-res monitor - and to be honest, i wouldn't wanna settle with less!
or does the chassis from the other fit on this tube ?
don't know, i'll have to check, but probably not
i could live with the screen being not fitting in horizontally, from what i can tell it doesn't affect the gameplay, but the colors are unbearable. so allow me to ask my question again:
what does (color) CUTOFF and (color) DRIVE exactly do?
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does the game look real ugly on a standard lowres monitor ?
You would feed a 24kHz signal into a 15kHz monitor, I doubt that this is a good idea. ;)
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what does (color) CUTOFF and (color) DRIVE exactly do?
Click me 8) (http://tinyurl.com/2fhx74z)
not exactly a straight answer, but the first link that appears will give some nice info
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does the game look real ugly on a standard lowres monitor ?
You would feed a 24kHz signal into a 15kHz monitor, I doubt that this is a good idea. ;)
AH! that makes sence :oops:
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i've started working on this one again (hopefully to have it ready for my birthday as well) and i'm still looking for one of those tv alignment tool sets (without screwdrivers or stuff, all i need are those plastic thingies).
i found this (http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3222360#header) on rs online. would that do the trick?
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I hope so, because then I'm going to buy a set also. Thanks for the link ully. :)
i wonder why the set is € 3,67 on RS-online NL, where Ully has to pay € 4,35
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They look ok to me