Dragon's Lair Fans - Arcade Lifestyle
General Chat => Arcade Lifestyle => Topic started by: Superully on September 07, 2010, 10:12:16 PM
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i picked this game up during my village vs. city roadtrip (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=792.0) and while it looked ok at first glance, there was a lot of "hidden stuff" which needed fixing. i started this restoration quite a while ago, having been working on the cabinet on and off and i thought it would be a good time now to share it with you. so let's give that starving warrior some food ...
(unfortunately) here's the only good picture of the cabinet i have in its completely assembled form. it was taken by the seller back then and as i've said: looking nice at first glance, doesn't it?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/4968021195_ed1839d705_b_d.jpg)
let's examine it a little bit closer: full frontal view! the monitor has some HEAVY :shock: burn-in
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/4968016245_c8722a4ef2_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4968623904_af3356e73a_b_d.jpg)
the right-hand side of the cabinet: artwork is intact entirely (sadly not the full sideart that some cabs used, but the cut version :()
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/4968016837_65cf84f493_b_d.jpg)
there are some scratches, but all in all the condition of the artwork is still good
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/4968014101_223c042e71_b_d.jpg)
however, for some fixings on the inside of the cab (more on that later), some guy used screws which were too long and simply screwed them right through the wood and through the artwork :evil:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/4968013911_90e1f634cb_b_d.jpg)
the left side of the cabinet is where the real problems start
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/4968016445_8a42c5e5a0_b_d.jpg)
as you can see, the artwork has come off in many places
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/4968015037_e48054a123_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/4968014407_35273a6f29_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4091/4968623574_5d086f3005_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/4968623336_21c2910b04_b_d.jpg)
it gets worse: the vinyl on the front comes of easily (note that i removed that bigger piece myself for a replacement vinyl matching). in spaces where the original vinyl had already come off, the wood underneath was colored black with a pen
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4968624824_c3a331e9b5_b_d.jpg)
extremely professional job, isn't it? :P
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/4968015803_fdda91171d_b_d.jpg)
the front art looks good, BUT ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/4968624372_8fb97111c6_b_d.jpg)
... some idiot has drilled two large screws right through the art for no apparent reason! there is absolutely NOTHING fixed to those screws and i've compared my cab with other gauntlet cabinets: none of them has those screws!!! ???
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/4968624110_1271c6b055_z_d.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/4968625406_fee389c1b3_z_d.jpg)
on the sides it gets even more amateurish: obviously the cab had taken a heavy beating in the past, because a huge chunk of wood has been badly reconstructed with wood filler. here's the view from the "inside" - i can't believe how bad this job has been executed!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/4968622350_e315e78f83_b_d.jpg)
view from the other side: looking a little bit better, but still very bad! check out how they didn't even manage to get it straight PLUS also check out the hand paint job on the blue :o :shock:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4968622534_999f03b052_b_d.jpg)
here's that same spot with the black vinyl already removed and parts of the old filling job already scraped off
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/4968628330_d9eff3af3b_b_d.jpg)
and here's how i fixed it: straight and smooth now! 8)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4968629686_108a25d430_b_d.jpg)
when moving the cabinet around, i realize that it is a little bit "shaky" and i already new that a new drama is unfolding at the very bottom of the cab: the leg levelers are completely worn out, the nuts are being held in place by screws
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/4968625882_9d61a35066_b_d.jpg)
in the following pictures the screws, the levelers and the nuts have been removed
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/4968626214_55e6cb5c96_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4091/4968018141_0bdb1c35f2_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/4968626730_8243201510_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/4968627706_61ce9e6e9c_b_d.jpg)
filled and new nuts installed (partially embedded in the wood filler)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/4968019607_a53f36a12b_b_d.jpg)
leg levelers installed! as you can see, other parts of the cabinet had been reconstructed as well :)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4968019979_6b2ff2fa13_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/4968020571_6536bd530d_b_d.jpg)
the entire outer shell of the cabinet will be covered in fresh black vinyl! because the cabinet is so deep (more than 1 meter), i was having a hard time finding replacement vinyl in the correct size, but after some searching i found a shop online selling vinyl with a width of 120 centimeters ;D
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/4968019809_2d4b7a38ff_b_d.jpg)
preparations done under the watchful eyes of my cat gnocchi
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/4968861336_e6b6d42100_b_d.jpg)
because it worked extremely well on my pac-mania restoration (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1513.0), i'm using the same application method again: not cutting the vinyl to fit the cabinet's shape, but leaving it a little bit larger and using the heat gun to "fold" it around the edges!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/4968629340_7e6822077b_b_d.jpg)
PERFECT!!! :spaceace:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/4968020303_82f0bb8f52_b_d.jpg)
something easy to finish off this first restoration session: the power block before ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/4968627424_4714797e54_b_d.jpg)
... and after!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/4968019131_e9899ef7e5_b_d.jpg)
to be continued ...
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Yay!
Maby i should restore mine now you're working on yours!
.... well, maby in 2 months when i get home ill give it a go...
But great to see another restore from you ully!!!! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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You run a lot of restorations in the same time, try not to mix the parts! ;D ;D ;D
Btw nice cabinet, good luck for the resto! ;)
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Wow that looks like a huge restoration! But if anyone can pull it off its you Ully!
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Another "Super" Ully Treatment !, RESPECT ! (ah i dont need to tell you that , you already know it ;D)
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Great game, I really start to collect arcade cabinets with this cab, it's one of my favorites games :-*
Sides look great with the new black vinyl :shock: :shock: Is it difficult to applicate it ?
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Sides look great with the new black vinyl :shock: :shock: Is it difficult to applicate it ?
thx a lot, it even looks better "live". not easy to applicate though because of the sheer size of that thing, you can't do it alone! there is a learning curve in this as well, the second side went on much easier than the first one did - without a lot of sweating and swearing ;)
at first i though about painting the cab, but because of the particle wood used it's extremely difficult to get a totally even finish PLUS the cab originally came with vinyl - why change it? the sides will have to stay black for a while though, because there are no real reproductions for the full sideart available yet. some guy from canada did a pretty good job on recreating it, but it's not 100% accurate. i've made a deal with him though to get one of his earlier test versions (which is much cheaper than the final version and still pretty good), but i don't want to spend that much money at the moment on sideart, therefore it'll have to wait. there is one other guy working on vectorizing the entire full sideart, but this is still a long way from being finished! for now, the cab looks great without sideart as well ...
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Hey Ully, excellent job, you're really bringing HIM back to life!
I really love that cab (and game) too.
Please let me know if I can be of any help on the vectorisation of the side art ;)
Maybe I could get in touch with the guy already working on it and we could team up to work faster.
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You're right Vinyl is the best option, I have a Gauntlet 2 to restore, I think that I'm going to try the Superully method (c).
For the vector side-arts, do you know this site : http://vectorlib.free.fr/Gauntlet/ ?
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Hey you're right Atarimania, I didn't even check vectorlib.
Looks like the job is taken (and done) already ;D
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For the vector side-arts, do you know this site : http://vectorlib.free.fr/Gauntlet/ ?
yepp, i know that side, but the don't have the FULL sideart, just the small one (which is a cropped version). check out this link (http://www.coinopspace.com/forum/topics/gauntlet-tall-side-art-project?commentId=2467396%3AComment%3A96777) for pictures of the full sideart and a status of that project. once you've seen the full version, you never want to install the small one again ;D
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Damned!! You're right, I didn't notice that the bottom was missing!
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it's not just the bottom, it's also more monsters and ghouls (5 :ghost::ghost::ghost::ghost::ghost: instead of just 3 :ghost::ghost::ghost:). all in all, it covers the sides much better! :spaceace:
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ok, i need some input:
today i rewired my gauntlet. because the cabinet came originally came from the usa, i have to use a stepdown converter. here's the setup i've installed:
from the wall socket a cable runs into the cabinet's on / off switch, from there the cable "continues" into the 230V input of the stepdown converter. i've measured the voltages there: around 230 volts! CHECK
from the 120V output of the stepdown converter a cable runs into the filter of the power supply. i've measured the voltages right before the filter: around 120 volts! CHECK
on the power supply itself there is a switching power supply which handles the rest. i've measured the voltages there as well (AC at 120 volts), +5V and -5V right where they are supposed to be! CHECK
i've measured the voltages running up from the power supply to the monitor (with the monitor still unplugged): around 120 volts! CHECK
i ran all those tests with both the monitor and the pcb connectors unplugged from the power supply! because all the voltages seemed to be totally fine and the power supply was humming nicely, i plugged in the connectors and turned on the game :arrow:
(http://scienceblogs.com/worldsfair/Boom.gif)
the power supply went silent - that's it!
i checked the fuses on the power supply, one of them was blown! i replaced it with a new one, removed the pcb and monitor connectors, measured the voltages again - same results. i plugged in the monitor connector, turned on the game, fuse didn't blow, i got a nice neckglow going, but of course no game picture.
turned the game off, plugged in the connector from the power supply to the game pcb (to see if it is getting the correct voltages), turned the game on again, fuse didn't blow, BUT the led on the pcb didn't come on :(
turned the game off, plugged in all the connectors, turned the game on again, fuse didn't blow, coin door lights came on, led on the pcb stayed dark, got a grey monitor picture - that's it :'(
is it possible that i blew the pcb game board? is there anything i have done wrong and could have checked before? what's next?
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when everything is connected and its on in "monitorgraymode" do you still have the voltages on the connectors that are connected now?
fuses blow normally to protect stuff, so it could be that you have a short somewhere in your board wich took something else out the first time when the fuse was blown
is there another powersupply wich you can use to test the board ?
it sounds like its toast...
or did you forget some connector or switched (if possible) a connection ?
and i read in your roadtrip there is a spare board, did you test that as well ?
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when everything is connected and its on in "monitorgraymode" do you still have the voltages on the connectors that are connected now?
don't know, will have to check tomorrow!
is there another powersupply wich you can use to test the board ?
i think the power supply is still working fine, because it provides all the voltages i need!
it sounds like its toast...
i'm afraid so, too! damn, this was working just fine before the restoration, i didn't change a thing and i took a lot of pics for comparison.
and i read in your roadtrip there is a spare board, did you test that as well ?
there is a spare board, but it is missing some chips. i could change them over from the board now in the machine and see what happens. all this will have to wait until tomorrow though ...
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Just wondering if it is possible to get rid of that stepdown converter by replacing the switcher with a 220V one or switching the old one to 220V (many have this possibility). It may also be necessary to replace/get rid of that filter, though I don't know about them, maybe they are not dependend on the voltage?
Just a thought...
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Just wondering if it is possible to get rid of that stepdown converter by replacing the switcher with a 220V one or switching the old one to 220V (many have this possibility). It may also be necessary to replace/get rid of that filter, though I don't know about them, maybe they are not dependend on the voltage?
Just a thought...
sascha, that's exactly what i was asking a couple of weeks ago here (https://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1529.0). but from what i understand, the game is set to run on 120 volts (because it's coming from the usa), so if i set the switcher to 230 volts, don't the power supply and the monitor get too high voltages?
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Maybe some wires have to be swapped on the linear power supply. As I said, it was just a thought, I can't say much more I'm afraid.
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well, but it can't be the power supply setup which made the fuse blow, because (a) it was working with the same setup before and (b) all the voltages just checked fine. could / should i have measured anything else?
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here's an update on some things i did, but first of all a picture of the switching power supply setup :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/4973515351_4449d494c7_b_d.jpg)
from top to bottom:
AC1
AC2
FG (unused, what does FG stand for?)
- (minus)
-S
+ (plus)
+S
NC (again unused, what does NC stand for?)
- to begin with, i started checking the voltages at the connector right before it "enters" the pcb: all the voltages showed ZERO ???
- then i measured the voltages at the connector right before it "enters" the pcb: all the voltages showed ZERO ???
- ok i thought and went back to the switching power supply: measured over AC1 & AC2: around 120 volts
- went to the monitor and measured the connector right before it "enters" the monitor: around 120 volts
- went back to the switching power supply where i got steady +5 and -5 volts yesterday, but today: ZERO ???
just to make sure i'm measuring that stuff correctly: one lead to +S, the other to + should give me 5 volts, the same for the minus side (-5 volts then)? i'm sure that's how i got my 5 volts yesterday. as for the connectors: one lead to ground, the other lead to whatever i want to measure (+5v, -15v, ...) should give me the desired result? am i doing something wrong here?
the strange thing is that nothing seems to be reaching the pcb and the audio board, but the 120 volts for the monitor are there and the coin door lights (which are powered "through" the audio board") also work fine!
(http://www.hardyhuebener.de/_pics/smiley_help.gif)
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Hi Ully!
... and Hi to everyone else. Im around for a while here ... another great arcade forum with nice people. I come from germany and ... ah, who cares, I will write an introduction thread soon ;) Now let's move on to help Ully.
- FG means "frame ground" ... in germany usually the green/yellow cable in the power cable
- NC means "not connected" so you can ignore that one
- +S / -S looks like the -5 indeed ... since Gauntlet has two power supplies this one is only for 5V and -5V
I suggest to test to remove all cables from the supplie except the AC ones. Then test the voltages again. If it reads something, there might be some short on the pcb ...
cheers, prc
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Many switchers have a fuse inside, did you check that?
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I suggest to test to remove all cables from the supplie except the AC ones. Then test the voltages again. If it reads something, there might be some short on the pcb ...
you mean remove all the cables from the switching power supply except the black and white one at the top? if i measure there (with the other cables still attached), i get 120 volts. as for the other measures on the connectors: i'm doing those measures with the connectors removed from the pcb, so it's impossible that a short on the pcb causes those zero voltages ...
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Many switchers have a fuse inside, did you check that?
nope, i didn't. but if that fuse were blown, shouldn't it register no 120 volts and shouldn't the coin door lights be off?
the way i'm measuring is correct, right? just to be sure ...
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as for the other measures on the connectors: i'm doing those measures with the connectors removed from the pcb, so it's impossible that a short on the pcb causes those zero voltages ...
ok .. so you habe an issue with the switcher, that's quite sure. Since it delivers only 5V and -5V you could use a regular switcher in exchange. Most of them work with 220V and 110V ... it' just a switch on the device. Should be changed easily.
cheers, prc
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ok .. so you habe an issue with the switcher, that's quite sure. Since it delivers only 5V and -5V you could use a regular switcher in exchange. Most of them work with 220V and 110V ... it' just a switch on the device. Should be changed easily.
if there's something wrong with then switcher then, how come the coin door lights work and the monitor is powered?
but let's say i installed a new switcher (and set it to 120 volts), how do i wire that thing up? thw switchers i have give me the following connections: -5V, +5V, +12V, GND, GND and AC1&2.
brown wires to -5V, brown/white to one GNF, red/white to the other GND and red to +5V? would that be correct?
even if that worked, i'm still having the problem i've had before: ive measured the outputs with all the connectors removed from the pcbs and monitors which measured fine then, but when i plugged in the connectors and turned on the game, the fuse blew. is there anything to check to prevent this from happening again? as i've said: the connections are good (because i took comparison pictures) and i didn't change a thing in the setup ...
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Did you remember to set your multimeter to DC? ;D ;)
120V=AC
+5V etc=DC
FYI, switchers need to a load (like a connected pcb) to work properly. So measuring the output of the switcher without the PCB connected might give wrong results, they can be way off.
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Did you remember to set your multimeter to DC? ;D ;)
120V=AC
+5V etc=DC
yes, i did, i just checked again. but thx for reminding me, something like that really _could_ happen with a noob like me on the multimeter. AC is the V with the "wave" on top, DC the V with the straight line - at least something i have learned ;)
FYI, switchers need to a load (like a connected pcb) to work properly. So measuring the output of the switcher without the PCB connected might give wrong results, they can be way off.
when i first took the measures with everything disconnected, it showed steady +5 and -5 volts, now it always shows ZERO - with or without connection!
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Did you check for any damage inside the switcher? Maybe somethings blown inside there (caps?) and it's working only partially, who knows?
Plus you could check the wiring for continuity.
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Did you check for any damage inside the switcher?
just opened the switcher and the first thing that jumps into my face is that totally blown fuse :o :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4975792587_55cc90c72b_b_d.jpg)
since i don't have a fuse of that SIZE at home, i'll have to test the game with a new switcher, so we need to figure out how to rewire it. is it like i've posted above?
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Ahaaaaaaaaa ;D ;)
Maybe it's easier to swap the fuse from one of your other switchers (if it's the same).
I just took a look at the wiring diagram, it seems that this is not an ordinary switcher as it has + and - sense lines which are normally used to automatically regulate +5V.
According to the schematic:
"-" (brown wire) = GND
"+" (red wire) = +5V
"+S" (red/white wire) = + sense
"-S" (brown/white wire) = - sense
(I guess other voltages are provided by the Audio/Regulator Board)
So I'm afraid you will have to use this switcher. I know how to bypass the sense lines on the older Atari Games, no clue how it works on Gauntlet though. I don't think that leaving them unconnected would work.
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THX!!! first i'll have to find out what type of fuse the switcher needs (where's my magnifying glass?) and then i'll check other switchers for it. i'll report back later!
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I seem to read 5A on the pic?
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Looks like 5A to me
So a fuse blown on the powerblock and one blown in the switcher...
sounds like a major short to me :-[
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I seem to read 5A on the pic?
agreed, but is it fast blow or slow blow? any chance to find that out?
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So a fuse blown on the powerblock and one blown in the switcher...
sounds like a major short to me :-[
agreed again! it was working fine WITHOUT anything connected, but then i plugged in both the monitor and the pcbs and it blew. what could cause such a short? bad wiring?
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According to the schematic:
"-" (brown wire) = GND
"+" (red wire) = +5V
"+S" (red/white wire) = + sense
"-S" (brown/white wire) = - sense
so that means connecting one lead to brown and the other to red should measure +5V on the multimeter? i'm pretty sure (99 %) though that i got both +5V and -5V by connecting + with +S and - with -S. hmmm, no chance to check that now though because the switcher's fuse is blown!
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just checke all my spare switchers (a total of TWO :P): one has the fuse soldered in, the other fuse is just 3A >:(
this means i have to order replacement fuses (rs online is my friend, because they cost close to nothing), the big question is SLOW or FAST blow. i can easily order both types because they are so cheap, but in the end i have to decide which type to install!
anyone?
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in the case of a short both of them will blow ully ;D
I think slowblow will be fine
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just checke all my spare switchers (a total of TWO :P): one has the fuse soldered in, the other fuse is just 3A >:(
this means i have to order replacement fuses (rs online is my friend, because they cost close to nothing), the big question is SLOW or FAST blow. i can easily order both types because they are so cheap, but in the end i have to decide which type to install!
anyone?
Hi Ully,
this was shortly discussed on the german ArcadeInfo board by Mr. Laschek :)
http://community.arcadeinfo.de/showthread.php?t=14215&highlight=sicherung+tr%E4ge (http://community.arcadeinfo.de/showthread.php?t=14215&highlight=sicherung+tr%E4ge) <-- There is the link.
Maybe you find the answer there.
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thx, if i've filtered that correct information, the difference between slow blow and fast blow is just the time it takes to "start", so i guess i'll go for fast blow. hope it does neither of that, no blow would be my choice ;D!
what would you do / can i do to prevent another short? what is there to check?
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thx, if i've filtered that correct information, the difference between slow blow and fast blow is just the time it takes to "start", so i guess i'll go for fast blow. hope it does neither of that, no blow would be my choice ;D!
Exactly. It is the time it takes until the fuse blows if there is to much current. I think both types exist because you have some stress peaks for example if the machine is put on. The fuses must tolerate these and not blow. So in that case you would choose the slow blow fuse. If you choose the fast blow fuse and you are not lucky, it will blow immediately without a mistake in your system only because of this stress peaks.
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i checked the fuses on the power supply, one of them was blown! i replaced it with a new one, removed the pcb and monitor connectors, measured the voltages again - same results. i plugged in the monitor connector, turned on the game, fuse didn't blow, i got a nice neckglow going, but of course no game picture.
turned the game off, plugged in the connector from the power supply to the game pcb (to see if it is getting the correct voltages), turned the game on again, fuse didn't blow, BUT the led on the pcb didn't come on :(
You didn't mention if the game was working before you disassembled everything.
It is usually a good idea to check what a fuse is going to protect when it blows before re-attempting to switch back on the machine. Did you check that ?
Matteo
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You didn't mention if the game was working before you disassembled everything.
i did mention it, but perhaps you missed it. game was working perfectly, but the monitor was "flickery" like hell, so i did a cap kit on it. could a misaligned capacitor (+ and - exchanged) be the reason for the short? i'm almost 100 per cent sure i didn't make any mistakes when installing the cap kit, but you can never be 100% sure, can you?
It is usually a good idea to check what a fuse is going to protect when it blows before re-attempting to switch back on the machine. Did you check that ?
nope, how can i do that? two fuses blew: one in the switcher itself and one on the power supply? do you need to know which one?
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You didn't mention if the game was working before you disassembled everything.
i did mention it, but perhaps you missed it.
Well, sorry about that. I must have missed it. I read this forum once in the weekends, it's easy for me to miss something among so many messages.
game was working perfectly, but the monitor was "flickery" like hell, so i did a cap kit on it. could a misaligned capacitor (+ and - exchanged) be the reason for the short? i'm almost 100 per cent sure i didn't make any mistakes when installing the cap kit, but you can never be 100% sure, can you?
No. In this case the inverted cap would have blown, not the fuses.
nope, how can i do that? two fuses blew: one in the switcher itself and one on the power supply? do you need to know which one?
Well, you have to check the game manual and follow the main wiring diagram and/or schematics. That would have told you what that blown fuse was going to protect (I mean which power line).
Anyway, if the fuse in the switcher blew and since the game was working before I'd guess you got something wrong when reassembling the machine. Double check all the connections to the game boards and the general wiring harness. Use the wiring diagram from the manual as a reference.
Good luck,
Matteo
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Your don't have to chose what kind of fuse, it should be mentioned on /near the fuseholder or schematics.
F=Flink=Fast, T=Time Lag=Slow
Putting in T fuses (=slow) where F are required can seriously damage either your supply or the stuff you try to run on the supply.
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Putting in T fuses (=slow) where F are required can seriously damage either your supply or the stuff you try to run on the supply.
nothing on the fuse and no idea where i can find out something about the switcher itself ???
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while waiting for the fuses to arrive, i might as well show you some pictures of what else i've done with the cab!
the small bars which hold the main pcb in place are either broken or were replaced by something strange ???
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/4980006956_f48ddf733e_b_d.jpg)
here's the inside of the cab with the pcb removed. as you can see, only two bars left
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/4979395605_3066bce9e2_b_d.jpg)
one wooden board on the inside is missing entirely
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/4979394837_6015a21460_b_d.jpg)
it is clearly visible where the missing parts have been torn out
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/4979395049_157c15a185_b_d.jpg)
first step: remove the excess stuff
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/4980002030_d26a987511_b_d.jpg)
second step: cut replacement parts
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4152/4979395405_a1b602431d_b_d.jpg)
third step: install new bars and and test them with the pcb
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4088/4980005570_b197444184_b_d.jpg)
fourth step: install the replacement wooden board
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/4979399283_1d6cfba28a_b_d.jpg)
let's turn to the back of the cab - this is how the very bottom of it looked like
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/4979394199_7d9dfda7a4_b_d.jpg)
in detail
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/4980001584_14a23882c0_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/4979393679_77038c4882_b_d.jpg)
of course, i can't live with that ;) so after some wood filling, a round of new vinyl and some black spray paint, i like it much better :)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/4980003848_3b9238216d_b_d.jpg)
the same details as above - only new
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/4979396671_8974e23b95_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/4980003702_208e72cb91_b_d.jpg)
let's move upwards a little bit where another backdoor is installed behind which lies the monitor. i took the liberty of improving upon the original setup, because normally the upper backdoor is held in place by screws, whichs means in order to have access to the monitor, one has to unscrew the backdoor. i wanted to have an easier access to the monitor, therefore i installed a lock, ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/4979397083_c8d7b67621_b_d.jpg)
... fixed the backdoor with a large hinge (not shown on the pictures) and secured it with two chains! very easy to open, works like a charm :spaceace:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4150/4980004028_0a2f922390_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4089/4980004916_03b3dc691d_b_d.jpg)
let's turn to the front: here's how the coin insert / return frames looked like
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/4979399811_d5b929453a_b_d.jpg)
i tested a new spray for paint removal: spray it on, wait about 10 minutes and then scrape it off
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/4980007122_36e296deae_b_d.jpg)
the results after some more sanding
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/4979400483_9a492a30c4_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/4980007692_fef378b6a9_b_d.jpg)
i spray-painted everything black and re-assembled the powder-coated coin door :) :) :)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4089/4980007410_f7ca829727_b_d.jpg)
right above the coin doors is the front artwork which "directs" the player to insert his currency for his favorite character. as i've shown before, someone had put two huge screws through the art for no reason PLUS the colors weren't that great anymore, that's why i ordered a replacement reproduction artwork from arcadeshop.com
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4110/4979397787_4713b64db5_b_d.jpg)
the colors are vibrant ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/4979399059_a365151b1e_b_d.jpg)
... and all the details are there!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/4979398761_2bf178aa69_b_d.jpg)
i've kept the original frontart to determine the position of the replacement
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/4979398531_0083c5d4ae_b_d.jpg)
and on it goes!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/4980005832_96617e775a_b_d.jpg)
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Wow, congratulations ! Impressive and top quality job as usual. :wink:
Matteo
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Putting in T fuses (=slow) where F are required can seriously damage either your supply or the stuff you try to run on the supply.
ok guys, the fuses have arrived (i ordered both types because they were so cheap ;)), but now i'm at a loss because i don't know which one to install. andré "painted" that horror scenario that i might damage something if i use the wrong type of fuse, so i need to be on the safe side before i install one. i totally trust andre's expertise, therefore i would like to be certain!
anyone?
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Install fastblow first, with all the cables disconnected
then one by one connect the wires, and when the fuse blows you know what is the part that is making you sad ;D
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Install fastblow first, with all the cables disconnected
here's an update:
:arrow: i installed a fastblow fuse in the switcher first. turned on the game - BOOM! both the fuse directly behind the filter on the power supply board AND the fastblow fuse in the switcher blew!
:arrow: i replaced the fuse on the power supply board and removed the blown fuse from the switcher, turned on the game, steady output of around 120 volts to both the monitor and the switcher!
:arrow: installed a slowblow fuse in the switcher next. turned on the game - BOOM! only the fuse directly behind the filter on the power supply board blew, slowblow fuse in the switcher is still ok!
summary: with all the cables removed, power supply WITHOUT a fuse in the switcher is working fine, as soon as i install any type of fuse in the switcher, the fuse on the power supply boards blows!
(http://www.hardyhuebener.de/_pics/smiley_help.gif)
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Mmh seems like your switcher is defective?! Without fuse it's clearly not working. With fast blow, it might be the stress peaks that let the fuse in the switcher blow and the error in the switcher or wiring let the fuse in the power supply blow. With a slow blow fuse, the switcher survives the stress peaks, but the error somewhere lets the fuse in the power supply blow. I'm not that familiar with these parts, that we are talking about, but maybe, this will give a hint on where the error might be. I hope you will get that fixed soon :)
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Mmh seems like your switcher is defective?!
that's what i'm thinking as well, the problem is that when i reassembled everything (without connecting monitor and stuff), the outputs were fine (at least that's what i remember), but then i connected the rest, turned it on and the switches blew. however, right now i'm thinking that the original fuse in the switcher must have had a problem for a looong time, just have a look at it again :arrow:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4975792587_55cc90c72b_b_d.jpg)
does that look like a blown fuse to you? to me, this looks as if it has been eaten away :twisted:
let's assume that the switcher is indeed defective: what can i do? since this is one of those "atari sense switchers", i can't simply replace it with a normal power supply, can i?
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the restoration continues ...
when i picked up the cab i realized during a first testplay that the monitor's picture was flickering - in fact it was "the flicker from hell" :twisted:. therefore i decided to try my first cap kit installation on the gauntlet monitor!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/5029865096_6993e2a47d_b_d.jpg)
chassis removed from the monitor, ready for the operation
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/5029864930_85fe804b68_b_d.jpg)
a tick behind each capacitor means "job done!"
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/5029864396_ddcb14d94e_b_d.jpg)
however, i couldn't check whether my cap kit had been successful or not because i still hadn't figured out the issues with the switching power supply. i had replaced the original +/- sense power supply with a regular one and wired it up according to some guy from KLOV, but without any luck. both the screen and the pcb led stayed dark :(. without knowing how to continue, i started with the easiest option: the power supply - and i was lucky enough to find an original replacement!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/5029248911_b0028591fd_b_d.jpg)
i tested it for voltages and after a successful first run installed it inside the cab along with the stepdown transformer
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/5029864140_35bbc7be08_b_d.jpg)
the time had come to turn on the machine and see what happens: i flicked the power switch, pcb led came on, i slowly walked around the cab to the front and ...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/5029863814_84d935c5da_b_d.jpg)
VOILA!!!
as you can see, there are some graphic issues in the title screen - none of which appear during gameplay (and i can't recall whether they have been there from the start or not). but i don't care at the moment, i'm one happy camper! :) :) :)
now all that cab needs is a set of new sidearts and this restoration is done :spaceace:
to be continued ...
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What a pleasure to read that, congratulation for the job done so far :-*
Well done also for the capkit :)... The two last times I've done it, it didn't help me to solve geometry (and others things) problems...so I'm not so confident with that personally :? but I know it's mostly the first thing to do! :P
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Check the +5V on the PCB, it may be a bit off that could cause the graphics errors.
Well done on the cap-kit Ully.....you're learning !!! :D
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Check the +5V on the PCB, it may be a bit off that could cause the graphics errors.
will do that, i think my measures on the switcher itself provided something like 5.08 volts. would that be too high? will measure on the pcb itself though just to make sure ...
Well done on the cap-kit Ully.....you're learning !!! :D
well, i'm learning from the master :)
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Huray ! , succes ully ! thats great news!
i had to be the powersupply, that fuse does not blow out of itself
:spaceace: :spaceace:
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today i checked the voltages on the pcb, was a little bit low at 4.99 volts. turned that up a little bit, but the graphic issue on the title screen still remains. however, as i've said before, no graphic error at all appears on the other attract mode screens or during gameplay, it really is only the title screen. any ideas?
one more thing came up: i also found a coin counter, which was missing on my gauntlet. quickly installed it and gave it a test: you can hear the clicking sounds of the meter, but the display doesn't increment a bit, it stays steady at 35400. you can also see that the counter is trying to move one number up, but somehow it fails to do so. could this be a mailfunction of the meter itself or isn't it getting enough power?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4088/5032641199_8963529304_b_d.jpg)
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Did you connect it to +12V?
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Did you connect it to +12V?
well, here's a photo of how it was connected on the machine where the coin counter was pulled from: the right two pins of those four pins on the sound board
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/5032747663_aa45fda1b8_b_d.jpg)
don't know if that's +12V or not (my schemativ reading skills are still limited)! as i've said: the clicking sound and the movement is there, the numbers just don't "flick" over, as if they aren't being pushed enough ...
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could be that its stuck, i dont know your mechanical skills, but i managed to "reset" once a simular counter in a copymachine (which i did for a living for some years)
so if you dont feel like you are losing something if you destroy it , open it up ! ;D
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so if you dont feel like you are losing something if you destroy it , open it up ! ;D
that's the problem: i don't know how! this looks as if it came in one piece from the start (which of course it didn't, but i can't seem to find a crack to open it up)!
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as far as i remember it can open like a cover so maybe there is some line in the bottom ? (wireside)
can you make a pic from the bottom ?
or if youre very carefull you can maybe saw it open with an ironsaw:
(http://www.klusidee.nl/Forum/userpix/12496_7014_1.jpg)
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Measure the voltages at the connector. And maybe you can test it at the other two connectors (for the second coin counter)?
I might have a spare counter... ;)
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Measure the voltages at the connector. And maybe you can test it at the other two connectors (for the second coin counter)?
first of all: i don't think there was a second coin counter, because no matter which of the four coin inserts i use, the coin counter clicks - i guess this means that one counter measures all four slots. have you been able to judge from the schematics why there are four pins?
I might have a spare counter... ;)
for the same voltages?
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first of all: i don't think there was a second coin counter, because no matter which of the four coin inserts i use, the coin counter clicks - i guess this means that one counter measures all four slots. have you been able to judge from the schematics why there are four pins?
Because the wiring diagram shows a second counter connected there ;)
I might have a spare counter... ;)
for the same voltages?
[/quote]
AFAIK they pretty much all run on 12V.
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Because the wiring diagram shows a second counter connected there ;)
can you post a picture of that and explain it to me? ;)
AFAIK they pretty much all run on 12V.
the ones i have in my "collection of spare parts" all run on 10 volts!
btw, how do i measure the voltages on those pins? one lead of the multimeter on the left pin and one lead on the right pin? if that's the case, the meter measures 3.72 volts!
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Check the game wiring diagram, sheet 21 in the schematics pack. Lower left corner.
According to this it's AC not DC, try that.
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Check the game wiring diagram, sheet 21 in the schematics pack. Lower left corner.
According to this it's AC not DC, try that.
thx, found it! where can you see that it's AC instead of DC?
and if i measure it with the multimeter set to AC, one lead on pin 3 and the other on pin 4 i get the following results: 0.0027 volts ???
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It says 12VAC at the input connector.
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and what about those measures i took? do they make any sense at all?
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and what about those measures i took? do they make any sense at all?
Obviously not ;)
Surely the voltage is too low, for whatever reason ???
Why need a coin counter anyway? I mean, it's just a friggin coin counter?? ;D ;)
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i think that the voltage shown is low, because its not counting
when the counting happens, its just a puls that gives the counter a gente kick ;)
probably too short to measure the voltage, unless you have a meter that can "remember" peaks..
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i think that the voltage shown is low, because its not counting
when the counting happens, its just a puls that gives the counter a gente kick ;)
probably too short to measure the voltage, unless you have a meter that can "remember" peaks..
Exactly !
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Why need a coin counter anyway? I mean, it's just a friggin coin counter?? ;D ;)
simply because i have it, because it belonged there originally and because i like that clicking sound it makes. PLUS it allows you to keep track of your gameplay statistics!
(http://www.wuv.de/var/wuv/storage/images/werben_verkaufen/nachrichten/unternehmen/i_want_it_all_i_want_it_now_sky_startet_abverkaufs_kampagne/2982178-1-ger-DE/i_want_it_all_i_want_it_now_sky_startet_abverkaufs_kampagne_panorama.jpg)
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probably too short to measure the voltage, unless you have a meter that can "remember" peaks..
don't know if my chinese fluke can do that - probably not. can't i measure it the moment i throw in a coin?
anything else i can do to get that meter going?
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you can try that ofcourse, but my experience with digital meters is that this small peak is too short to see on the meter
an analog meter can come in handy now 8)
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an analog meter can come in handy now 8)
something like this? ;)
(http://s253973530.online.de/spielfux/img/produkte/151_166/large1.jpg)
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an analog meter can come in handy now 8)
something like this? ;)
(http://s253973530.online.de/spielfux/img/produkte/151_166/large1.jpg)
L.O.L. ;D ;D ;D
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as long as the voltage does not exceed 12 cm you will be fine ;)
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i haven't figured out the problem with the coin counter yet. hey sascha, didn't you wanna look for one? ;)
anyway, let's finish off this restoration with something HUGE :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
speaking of "huge": a huge tube arrived from canada!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5124/5332623241_a191b68507_b_d.jpg)
a first peek inside
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5166/5332621919_95bb8a11fb_b_d.jpg)
danger lurks inside! :twisted:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5333237900_da639efc74_b_d.jpg)
danger all around!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5333237436_0c9d3e3dd4_b_d.jpg)
before i reveal, i have some explaining to do: most of the original gauntlet cabs came with the normal sideart, but there are a few which had the (what we call) tall sideart. "tall" because it is wider, higher and therefore simply has more gauntlet action going on ;). up to now, there were no reproductions of the tall sideart available until a guy from canada took on the task and reproduced it himself. he dropped tons of money into that project and made various revisions based on fellow collector's comments, but in the end the results are great (at least in my opinion). admitted, the repros are not 100 per cent perfect (some colors are a little off, some details are wrong), but to me totally acceptable. in fact, i didn't buy his latest (and final) version, because i think it is too expensive and noone will notice the differences anyway. therefore, i managed to get a good price on one of the earlier versions and here it is, rolled out on my living-room table to flatten out! :)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5332622373_9184fe7a54_b_d.jpg)
after a couple of days, they are flat enough to be applied to the cabinet - let's bring them into position!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5081/5332623833_0554751a70_b_d.jpg)
because the sideart cost some serious money nevertheless and because they are huge and therefore difficult to handle, i've brought in some help in the form of charlotte :-*
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5332623449_95f517afc6_b_d.jpg)
be careful, those skeletons can bite :ghost:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5242/5333239070_7e1f07710a_b_d.jpg)
well done, superully, no air bubbles, no nothing, just perfect!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/5333239848_4b48a7067b_b_d.jpg)
handshake over a job well done 8)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5333240486_a57c2e382b_b_d.jpg)
BEFORE
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5332637067_223b138f5b_b_d.jpg)
AFTER
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5333241320_5c18f735ca_b_d.jpg)
BEFORE
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/5332637231_eb1ec7b717_b_d.jpg)
AFTER
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5088/5333240112_a94cc39742_b_d.jpg)
some more random pictures
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5333240336_8281696885_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5333239608_28c6c1990b_b_d.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/5333240832_cf082b7219_b_d.jpg)
the picture is brilliant after my successful cap kit :-*
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5332623115_db3b8bd675_b_d.jpg)
it's finally time to insert some coins and play that game - i need three more players, c'mon over guys!!! ;D
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5332625517_14c3c1722b_b_d.jpg)
THIS RESTORATION IS OFFICIALLY DONE!!!
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looking good! i envy you ully!!! :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace: :spaceace:
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Super !
but in the end the results are great (at least in my opinion). admitted, the repros are not 100 per cent perfect (some colors are a little off, some details are wrong), but to me totally acceptable.
Good to know...... :twisted: just kidding ofcourse ;)
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Good to know...... :twisted: just kidding ofcourse ;)
i was waiting for that comment from you, Mr A ;) ;) ;). of course i'd have preferred 100% accuracy, but there's no light at the end of the tunnel and when there's at least a 100 dollar difference involved (or another two or how many years waiting), i don't care anymore! don't you think they look great? the problem (with all my games) will eventually be: how can i bring them down when i'm moving to my final location without damaging them again? this is going to be tricky!!!
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Wow that is some great sideart. I like the theme of wizards and archers. :evil: :evil:
seems like the old sideart was much smaller and narrower. This one covers the whole cab, which looks way better!
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Looks great! You should have taken the pictures from the front of the cab with the monitor on.
The screenburn makes it look less spectacular. ;)
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Absolutely perfect and the screen with the new capkit looks like new. ;)
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Another great resto Ully !!! Congratulations :spaceace: :-*
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i envy you ully!!!
you don't have to, michael! you have so many other great games and you'll get your gauntlet working eventually - i'm sure!
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here's a short update (although i consider this resto finished): i just wanted to let you guys know that i've solved the coin counter problem (remember, the counter wasn't increasing). well, it wasn't too difficult, because i simply swapped the 12V version for a 10V one and now i can hear that soothing sound of the coin counter every time i add a credit! i screwed the new counter to a small piece of wood and glued it next to the sound board (its original position)!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5407812509_38a020a767_b_d.jpg)
of course the new counter number is totally different from the first one, but - believe it or not - even i can live with that! ;D
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5408422040_bd28b3fb3c_b_d.jpg)
it's those tiny details which keep a restoration from ever being finished, let's see what i find next ... :ghost:
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take a powersource, a switch and then.... click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click untill you are totally insane of switching it on and off or just untill you reach the original counter number ;D